hidepounder

Marlon, Just be careful not to do anything to effect the temper...I know you already know that...but it's over a hundred years old.....it deserves a few age spots! I know you'll love it! Bob

Russ, I mostly make my own interiors, however, when I don't I use those made by Chaylor-Fenneli in Austrailia. They distribute out of Tempe, AZ. This is the contact info I have on them. They are no longer retailing thru HitchingPost from what I hear and are now selling direct. Hope this helps. Bob Cahylor-Fenneli 2015 E. 5th St. Suite #19 Tempe, AZ 85281 480/319-2314 Keith Johnstone

If that would work Monica, I'll do what I have to, to rub it out...I wouldn't mind that too much. I'm gonna try it on the next one. Bob Thanks Ed, Glue doesn't seem to make any difference. Wish it did....would be an easy fix! Bob

Tina, Fantastic work....over the top as usual! Always a Tina fan.... Bob Tina, Having done the exact same thing myself, I made myself a little dye bottle holder that would contain spills. It's just a wood block to hold the dye bottles upright, mounted in a pan to contain any spills. Super easy to make and really handy! I'm going to make a new one that fits the dye bottles I'm using now. It holds my edge dye pens, a few brushes, daubers, open caps....anything that could get knocked around and contaminate my project. I usually put a couple of shot bags on either side of the pan to keep it from getting knocked around. I just thought this might help someone who hasn't ruined a project yet by spilling their dye bottle..... Bob

Casey, Seeing these examples reminds me of a lot of gun engraving patterns.....as you are engraving now, I know you are familiar with those styles and some of the sites may have patterns that are more easily adaptable to a tooling pattern.......just thinking out loud, here.... Bob

Beautiful sheaths and knives, Dave, as always! Bob

Thanks Harry....I'm definitely going to experiment with larger needles. Bob Brent, I was surprised to find out hoe many of us have been putting up with this problem. I'll let you know if I get any significant improvements. Bob

I'm glad this thread got bumped....I love to see that Sheridan Lady piece by 2 Shews....it's amazing! Just when I think I'm might be about to break out, I see work like this and am completely humbled! It's definitely inspiring and motivates me to study and practice harder. But it can be frustrating knowing how easy it is for some of the really talented artists to produce these masterful compositions! Soooooo....back to the bench!!!!! Thanks again for sharing, Johanna, Bob

Tim, I'm the last guy who should give anyone any career advice......except this......do what you love to do and do it better than anyone else! The money will follow. I can tell you from experience that there is nothing like being excited to get up in the morning to go do what you love! Bob

They are molded in one piece and I can't remember the name of the material....I like them because there is no flaking as you see with rawhide or nylon mauls, and I like the longer striking head on them. Bob

The site looks great Bruce and I'm excited about your blog! I know it's going to be fun and I'm looking forward to it! Bob

Here's what Beard Mauls look like. These are 16oz, 20oz and 24oz. Bob

Our own Ed, the BearMan makes beautiful mauls! And matching desk stands for them too! Bob

Great job as always, Steve! Love the skirt rigging of course! Bob

I use my Bob Beard 16 oz for 90% of what I do (if you exclude saddle work)....but that's a hard decision.....I'd probably select the 20 oz Beard if I could only have one. BTW if anyone has a 12oz or 32oz Beard they don't like or aren't using I'll give you your money back and some to boot! Bob

Bree...you may be right! What you are describing is exactly what I am seeing! One of our members told me the exact same thing in a PM. Like you say, it doesn't happen with soft leather. Thanks! Bob Steve, Wetting the leather is a really good idea! I'm going to give that a try! Thanks, Bob

King's X, I owe you an apoplogy! Milli was asking you a question and I posted an answer!!!???? Sometimes my enthusiasm takes over and I get carried away. I didn't realize I had done this until I was reading the thread again today. Anyway, I really didn't mean to hijack your thread and I apologize to you and Milli for doing so....I can be a bucketmouth sometimes!!!!!! Bob

Frank, Applying Edge Cote is not necessary when modifying your billet ends. Once you make the cut and edge the corners, wet the leather and apply Fiebings bar soap to the edge and then burnish with a heavy piece of canvas that has been saturated with Fiebings Yellow Saddle Soap. It will make a very nice, smooth edge that you can now dye any color you want. When it is dry, polish with a clean cloth to remove any dye residue and apply your final sealer. If you want to really make is shine, burnish the edge with parafin using a piece of heavy canvas and then polish and seal. Bob

Thanks Art! Sounds like I need to go larger! The truth is, when I started sewing, I copied a needle/thread chart out of the Weaver catalog and that's where I came up with those needle sizes. I'll try the larger needle. Bob

They're fairly snug, Ed. I think the problem is the stiff lining material doesn't want to allow the thread and loop back into the hole....? It's doesn't happen with soft material or when the flesh side is exposed. Bob

This is a question for all you sewing machine gurus...... When stitching belts and other lined items, my stitches on top look good, but those in back look bad. I typically use 138/99 with a 14 needle or 99/69 with a 12 needle. I'm using a Artisan 797AB, but I have the same problem, to a lesser degree, with my Adler 205/370. The thread size doesn't seem to make much difference. The back side stitches don't pull up nice and tight like the top does. Some of the lining material I use is thin....2 oz....but is much firmer than the leather on top....I wondered if that was part of the problem. It seems like increasing tension doesn't help the stitches tighten up any. Do I need to use a larger needle to allow the stitch to pull into the leather? I also have this problem when sewing the skived folded end of a belt where I'm transitioning from 10 oz leather to 5/6 oz leather. Everything looks good until I transition to the lighter leather. I have frequently noticed this on other peoples work as well. My goal is to make the stitches on the botton look as good as those on the top....am I asking too much or using the wrong set-up? Suggestions? Thanks, Bob

Bree, I've never seen that Tamper before...looks handy. Might be good for tapoffs too! Bob

Great job Crystal....looks really nice! The two tone spices it up. Bob

Hi Milli, I call it a spine, also, don't know if that's correct or not. Anyway, I machine stitch everything. When I attach the spine to the leaves, I glue them with Barge, then sew. I use Neatsfoot or Olive Oil. I use a trimmed piece of woolskin and start out VERY lightly, continuously working in circles and concentarating on getting a even application. When I start, it doesn't look like much is going on, but it is. I've never used the Bee Natural, but I hear it is good stuff. Hope this helps, Bob PS....I do all my background dying before I oil....

You're right on the mark, Monica, that's exactly what I do too. Not only on belts, but everything that gets lined! Great edges by the way. Bob That is an excellent idea! Don't know why I never thought of that! I use glass to skive on...think I'll add a piece to glue on, too. Great tip, thanks! I love this place! Bob