hidepounder

If memory serves me (and I can't count on it anymore), Bob makes three sizes. I use a #1 and a #2. I use a #1 for 69-138 thread. The #2 is good for up to around 277 thread. I have used it with 346 as well...but that was probably pushing it.... Bob

Primarily used on fine harness work. Not seen very often on western type pieces, except for casework interiors, etc.

Tom, There is no such thing that I'm aware of. If you have an acrylic stamp made, you wll get it quickly and it will not be expensive. The down side is, they do not last forever and they are fairly easily damaged. Mosby (Grey Ghost Graphics), does a great job. On the other hand, if you need a rugged durable stamp that will last for years, you should probably go to steel. They are expensive and take longer to get, but will last a lifetime. Harper and Infinitey are the two steel stamp makers that I am aware of....both good! Bob

Kliff, I think that looks spectacular! I'm not a seat builder, but I appreciate fine work of any style. You appear to have good artistic skills drawing patterns and good command of your tools, as well. Nice job! Bob

Chris, That's a tough pattern to do when you're fighting your swivel knife. Hopefully Barry's knives will be easier to use. One of the things I noticed is that you are ending your knife cuts abruptly. They should be long flowing cuts that taper out to nothing. That will give a more pleasing appearnce. Bob

Nice job JW! Looks like a great workiing rig. Will you ride it down the fence? Bob

That's almost exactly the same stitching horse I'm using now, except mines not in as good shape....been handed down two or three times....

I think those are both good Ideas.....

I don't like the idea of relying on glued latigo. Latigo will glue, but it's more difficult than gluing veg tan leather....I guess because of the tanning process. If I want a really strong bond to latigo, I use Masters Cement. I also sand the glued area heavily. The type of latigo does make a difference...some latigos have a flesh side that should be split, cut or sanded away. That done, and using Masters, you should get a pretty good bond. I have no qualms about relying on contact cement to hold veg tan together....but latigo is a different animal! I worry about the responisbility of losing an expensive Ipod in a latigo holster that's glued only and has been allowed to weather..... just my experience with latigo... Bob

John, I think this is one of the best looking cases you've done. Personally I love combining floral tooling with exotics....particularly alligator. Unfortunately not very customers want to spend the money. To me, this case is rich and elegant. Nicely done! Bob

I'm sorry, I really know nothing about the Ecoflo products because I don't use them. Someone who does needs to jump in here....but I did want to tell you to tool FIRST. Then do any dyeing, then apply the resist, then antique. Tandy makes some Highliters that I believe are intended to darken the cuts and depressions without coloring the body of the leather....AS MUCH. However, I don't use those either, so I can't really comment on them. Bob

Dirkin, There are a couple of ways to use the antique paste. The effect you are trying to achieve dictates the method you use. If you want to substantially darken your leather, then you can apply the paste directly to the leather....rub it in....and then remove all residue. The application needs to be even and should be applied all at once. The longer it's on, the darker it will get and if you apply it in stages, the overlap will show. It should be applied to dry leather and I recommend cleaning the leather with oxalic acid before applying the antique. Antique is notorious for going on uneven, leaving light and dark "blotchy" areas, due to texture changes in the leather and/or different residues left on the surface due to handling. Probably the more accepted way of applying antique paste is to seal the leather first with Neat-Lac or something similar (this is commonly called applying a "resist"). Once it's dry, apply the antique and remove all the residue. This is the method used when a piece is tooled and the objective is to enhance the appearance of depth and to create highlights. The leather will not be colored as deeply (due to the resist), but the depressions will hold more color. I prefer to apply the paste with a piece of trimmed woolskin scrap. Then I remove all residue with another piece of trimmed woolskin and follow that up by polishing...again with trimmed woolskin. Once it's dry, the piece then needs to sealed with any of a variety of sealers....all of which may pick up the color of the antique, so you need to be carefull when applying the sealer. I use Neat-Lac (which is no longer available...but the method works for most all sealers) and I apply it with...you guessed it....a trimmed piece of woolskin scrap. Light coats applied quickly are best. If you use a spray be careful not to apply too much! It's easy to get too much on with an aerosol. Hope this helps! Bob

Janice, You are doing a very good job! I am impressed with your willingness to critque your own work and to make improvements! Tooling is not an easy skill to master, which you obviously recognize and I applaud your patience. I know it's presumptuous of me, but I would like to make a couple of suggestions that I hope will help you speed up the learning process. First....practice with your swivel knife...every scrap you have, should be covered with practice knife cuts! The other half of learning to use your swivel knife, is mastering how to sharpen and strop it. NO ONE can do a good job with a dull swivel knife, and cutting is the foundatiion for all good tooling. It is well worth the money to buy a sharpening jig if you don't have one, and I assume you already have a strop because you have been building leather projects for a while. The second thing I want to tell you, is to copy somebodys work (hopefully an accomplished tooler!). Trace something they have done and try to reproduce it. This gives you a good opportunity to compare your work with the original, allowing you to see where to make improvements. Don't try to improve on their design quite yet....that is an issue of "style". Instead, try to create an exact duplicate of their work. As you become more proficient, then you can start dabbling with your own patterns. In the meantime, copying someone else will allow you to learn how to use your tools and you'll develope a taste for the type of tooling you like to do. Don't worry about copying....your own style will eventually emerge! Keep up the good work! Bob

That's really nice Art! It has a rich old world look that's really unique! Like an expensive antique, leather bound book! Bob

Looks great! What finish process did you use...you got good highlights in your shading, etc.? Bob

Ahhh Haaa...I get it! I'll have to do a little experimenting. Thanks! Bob

Looks terrific David...I knew it would! Pappa Clutch really pops! Bob

Ian, What happens with the cotton core to make it unusable?....sounds like it's not stiff enough....I'm considering adding a decorative welt to a pair of chaps that are coming up...... Bob

Great job Ed.....pretty tricky with the stitching, too! Bob

Viejo, Most factory hatbands are connected with a single stitch, in two or three locations, that is tied under the sweatband. I think most after market hatbands are just snugged on...... Bob

Congratulations Casey!!!!!!! Ist place and Peoples Choice! It doesn't get any better than that and couldn't go to a more deserving guy! Pretty nice to be rubbing elbows with some pretty big names...now you're one of them! Great job neighbor!!!! Bob

Come visit me, Bob, in another month it will still be 100F at midnight, here.....it'll make you appreciate how it cools off at night, there....

Hi Clif, Thank you for the compliments! I think you should keep your marbles out....it looks to me like you haven't forgotten anything over the years. And I know what it's like to try to start back....I took twenty years off myself, before starting back again! I see by the photo album cover you posted, that you're reading the right book...Bill Gardiner's work is wonderful! That's a geat book....I refer people to it all the time....go back thru it myself from time to time. If you keep following his work, you can't go wrong! Thank you for asking, but right now my work load is such that I'm not able to do any clinics, instruction, etc....however, maybe because of our economy, I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel and maybe in the not too distant future I will be able to do some of those things. Keep up the good work, Bob

Those are incredible edges! Wonderful job! Now please tell us what you did to improve the process.....those are better than mine! Bob

I tried to sign it too, Art. Really cool site....great gallery! Bob