hidepounder

I'm with you all the way on this, Kevin. You HAVE to have the right tools to complete the job. I'm working on a belt pattern right now, that I've been developing...it has some nickel and dime size flowers on it...and no matter how many times I tool it, or how how hard I try, I don't have the micro size tools that are necessary to make the pattern be all that it can be! I'm going to have to table this pattern until I can accumulate those specialty tools...consequently, that pattern will not leave here until that time. Having the skills is only half the battle!

Pretty easy to follow, Keith...not as easy to do, I'll bet!

I draw them on also, in the same manner described by Troy and Keith, except I've never used the plastic cirlcles or lids. What a great idea! I've been fumbling with circles cut from file folders which is awkward to say the least! I love this place...learn new tricks every day! Bob

I love this place! I learn something new everyday! But I guess this means I didn't need to spend all my money buying up everything in town...oh well...I've got it now! Thanks for the info, Kevin, I didn't know about ClearLac until the other day and certainly didn't know they were the same thing! good to know. Bob

When I build headstalls I always line them or double them...depending on what the headstall is going to be used for and what the customer wants. If I'm not lining a headstall I will certainly double it. Doubling is stronger and more finished than a single ply headstall of the same weight. I also thinks it's easier to clean and care for. A working headstall would not be constructed of the same materials or methods as a headstall for the show ring. Depending on the style, my headstalls range from 12 oz to 16 oz. or even heavier. A working Buckaroo pattern is typically wider and heavier than a dainty Show headstall. Latigo makes a great lining as does some of the pre-finished pigskins. Besides style, cost has to come into play also...obviously a single ply headstall is less expensive to make than a lined or doubled headstall. Some customers may prefer a heavy single ply rig constructed from harness leather...there's a lot of them out there. I know this is not a definitive answer to your question...I just think there are no rules here. I think you just use common sense, question the customer for their preferences and consider what the rig will be used for.....IMHO. Bob

I just went and read your post again....you're right!....I completely misunderstood what you were talking about! LOL. Sorry, that was really dumb!...I obviously need to pay better attention!!!!!!.....(Geez I'm dense!!!!!) Bob

I cut my lining oversized, glue it to the belt, then trim the lining to fit the belt, which includes cutting the tip with a punch. Then I sand the edges so that they are smooth. Bob

I'm with Monica 100% on this. For me there is no such thing a good enough! I have NEVER been satisfied with anything I've done. I know that once I'm satisfied, I will not progress any farther. If something is not the best it can be, then it's not good enough! Attention to detail is deifintely the issue. It can always be smoother, cleaner, brighter, deeper, finer, more square, round, even....well you get the idea. IMHO if it can be improved upon, then that should be the standard. I can't tell you how many pieces I finish...even now...that I hate because I don't think they're good enough, or because I can't get past some flaw that I know I could have avoided. I think everything I do stinks, and I really try to improve on the next one! I think the process of improving or growing is never ending. Geez....that's depressing! Someone should probably take my knives off my bench for a little while.... Bob

I've made a number of shot bags and can't imagine being without them. I purchased a bag of steel shot at a gun store...poured what I wanted into a sealable plastic bag (my thoughts were to prevent any steel dust from escaping the finished bag). I made a few bags from scraps of upholstry leather (Tandy sells upholstry scraps pretty cheap). Sew the shape you want inside out...turn it right side out...shove in the baggy of shot...sew the end closed. Simple and cheap. Indespensible for holding a piece you are tooling from wandering around your bench, holding a rolled side of leather open, holding a straight edge in place as you prepare to mark, etc., etc. Saddlemakers use them all the time for holding seat jockeys in place, turning fenders/stirrup leathers and for all kinds of things I'm sure I don't even know about. Bob

I'd like to know more about this too, Art. I have modified a bunch of Tandy tools and did exactly what you said...I have just left them that way and don't really see a need to remove any other material. They don't look very good, but neither do the tools made from nails that I frequently use. Any time you apply heat to steel you risk altring the temper of the tool (not that it should be a concern with Tandy tools!). I'd like to hear more about modifying tools...great subject to explore! Bob

Hey Bruce...great book! I appreciate having that...you are always very generous, with your comments and your years knowledge! You are an incredible asset LW and to all of us. Thank you! One of your fans.... Bob

Spence, 1.) Burnish edges with saddle soap and water. 2.) Complete all dying, including edges. 3.) Add light coat of oil (EVOO or NF). 4.) Apply resist for antique (skip if not applicable). 5.) Apply antique (skip if not applicable) 6.) Apply final finish. 7.) sew Bob

Self injuries resulting from Tri-Weave Syndrome are bad for business! Bob

Should be simple to do...a real narrow item to fit in your pocket, because the teeth on the comb would be pretty short!

Nice job, Josh! Good clean lines. The simple un-complicated design is a good example of how sometimes "less is more". I like it! Bob

Wow...I didn't realize you made two different pieces! this one is at least as well done as the other....my hat's off to you! Bob

Bobocat! Once again, a stunning job! The design balance is excellent, your execution is beyond reproach and the colors are outstanding. I really like the flower center you created as well as the centers of the buds. The decorative cuts are outstanding and the overall construction is neat and clean, as well! Really well done! Bob

You certainly can't beat the price! I'm glad to hear they work well.

You mean like pocket combs, Harvey?

That's a good tip! Bob

WOW Kevin...really nice! A lot of work went into that one...lots of intricate sewing and cutting. The interior is really well done also...I'm not crazy about the red thread on the interior, but that's just me...it's a really well done piece! My hat's off to you! Bob

I'm really big on using olive oil....I like the ease of application and the lighter finish I get. I still use NF, mostly because I have a lot left on hand, but I'm using olive oil more and more. I think Keith is spot on, with regard to the even and complete penetration. I think when I run out of NF, I might try some of the NF fromTexas Refining, just to have some NF on hand, but otherwise it's olive oil for me. Bob

I've seen them on Ebay, too, and thought they were pretty cool. However, being an advocate of tool steel (I've sold or am selling most of my stainless cutting tools), I suspect that the steel is probably not the most desireable for edgers and such. That's just my take on them... Bob

"To tape or not to tape", that is the question. I'm going to throw in my two cents worth. To begin with, I almost always adhere whatever I'm tooling to a piece of 1/4" acrylic. I have several sizes cut out that fit most everything I want to tool (saddles and larger pieces of gear being the exception here...those pieces are heavy enough and large enough that stretching is less of a problem). So, when my leather is cased and slicked and mounted to a piece of acrylic, I have a lot of surface on which I can tape my pattern down. I use the blue painters tape. Now, I don't have to worry about my pattern moving when I answer the phone, or respond to the commands of the General. My attitude is, that the more accurately I can transfer the pattern, the more accurately I'm likely to cut it, and lets face it, besides the actual composition of the design, cutting is easily most important step in tooling! Now, to stray a little from the point of this thread, I want to say that a side benefit of this process is, that during the course of tooling, if I need to leave the bench, I tear off a piece or two of plastic wrap and seal it to the acrylic, trapping all the moisture in the leather. It sticks right to the acrylic and makes a tight seal. When I come back, nothing has changed. My leather is just as I left it...or maybe a little more moist do to a little condensatioin. Additionally as a side, side, benefit (yes that was two sides) whenever I find I need to re-moisten the leather, sealing it in the plastic wrap gives the added moisture a chance to spread evenly through the leather, essentially re-casing it. So, while voting for taping a pattern in place, I'm also advocating gluing to the acrylic panel at the same time, which makes taping easy and results in several other benefits, aiding to the pleasure and quality of tooling! But wait...I'm not finished preaching yet...There is a side, side, side, benefit! In addition, because there is a rubber cement residue on the back of the leather, you now have to line it with piece of 2/3 oz (or whatever is appropriate)...which is what should be done to everything in the first place, to enhace the beauty and quality of the project, making it a truely proffessional job! Well, that's my story and I'm sticking to it! :soapbox: All that from taping down a pattern?!...I need a job! Bob

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