hidepounder

Troy, I do large pieces fairly frequently. Because 99% of my tooling is floral, separating different areas may ba a little simpiler than when figure carving is involved, however, what works for me is using different layers of plastic wrap. I determine the different areas I will be tooling in stages and cover them with the plastic wrap and then adding packing tape over the edge of the plastic wrap to hold it down close to the leather. I don't let the packing tape touch the leather, it just runs along the free edge. I cover the last stage first working baclwards, so that as I finish one section, I can remove the plastic wrap from the next successive section and so. So when I begin tooling, I may have two or three sections with overlapping plastic wrap, ready to be removed in sequence. This works very well...when I remove a section of wrap, the leather is moist and cased the way I like it and is ready to tool. Hope this helps, Bob

I'm with you Brent...when the Barge can isn't strong enough I open up my can of Neat-Lac too!

For me, the toolers that come to mind first are: Troy West, Bill Gardner, Chester Hape, Jim Jackson and Travis Stillson. I was also really impressed with a piece from 2shews(sp?) that Johanna posted. I love Peter Main's work, even though he's not a western tooler, because he is such a great designer and mechanic.

OOOOOOoooooooooooooooo........I felt that!

There's no question about it!!!!! You should definitely send it to me for a scientific, time tested evaluation!!!!!!!!

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I had gone to several silversmiths originally....Montana Silversmiths, Hansen's, Silver King and a few more...they all wanted $1000 to $2500 with a minimum order...it just wasn't feasable for me...but I'll pursue the plate makers...maybe stainless will be more affordable. Thanks again, Bob

Really good looking maul, Ed! How did you come up with that particular handle profile? Trial and error until it felt right? Bob

Thank You! Bob

Thanks TF, Sorry to be slow replying...been out of town. They allowed us to use a smooth beveler, a mules foot and a veiner. All the shadiing you see on the skull, such as in the eye sockets, etc., is done by cross hatching with very fine cuts to create the illusion of shadow. Bob That's funny Bree! And thanks! Bob Thanks Brent!

Tina, Sorry for taking so long to answer you...I was out of town for a week. the knives I use the most are...a 3/8" Henley with a Bob Beard 1/4" angled HG blade...a Bob Beard 1/2" custom made knife with a 1/2" HG straight blade...a 5/8" custom made Bob Beard with a 5/8" straight HG blade...a 3/8" Henley with a 1/4" low angle, shallow bevel blade by Peter Main...and a 1/2" Henley with a 3/8" HG straight Henley blade. I am very impressed with the 1/4" angled blade from Paul also. Bob

Great work Randahl! You should enter more of those contests! Bob

Beautiful, Tina! Great composition, color, details....really nice! Bob

Holly, You have to know when to "hold them" and when to "fold them"! This is a hand I would fold on. I would tell him very nicely that you're concerned about meeting his expectations which you feel may not be realistic. If he can convince you that he will be satisfied with your art, then fine, go for it. Just remember, it takes a long time to establish a good reputation and one person to ruin it! Send him to Peter Main! Bob

Definitely tool the swell when it's on the tree!

Tom, I see a lot of improvement from the first one you did. Couple of things...When you use your camoflage tool, you want less separation...the tool marks should overlap and progressively stretch out as you move up the stem. I would also use the corner of the camo tool to finish the center of your swirls. Give it a good wack to make a deep impression. I would also tighten up the seeds in the seed pod. I usually do the outer arch first, making sure that each tool impression touches the last, working my way into the center. Where you used your veiner up the center of the Acnthis (sp?) leaf, bevel a little deeper and use a LOT more veiner impressions. Keep going...you're making good progress! Bob

Tom, Make a pattern of the taper yu want to use, from cardboard or plastic...then use it to transfer your taper to your leather. You can always turn it over so that both tapers are the same. You can also use an end punch to create the taper...press it onto the leather to make a mark to follow, or actually use it as a punch. I have plastic patterns I've made...I place them where I want the taper to begin...mark them...then continue the taper with a set of dividers along each side. Hope this helps, Bob

After years of experimentation with a variety of formulas, I've found that Crown Royal works best for me...but I only use oxolic acid on my leather before I dye or antique.... The only time I use alcohol on my leather is when trying to remove unwanted dye, which usually ends up in a catastrophe.

Cordovan!

Thanks everybody for all your kind words! Your comments and enthusiasm is inspiring! Thanks Paul and Rosa for putting on a fun contest...I'm really enjoying the new swivel knife...I've been anxious to try one! Bob

Mike, I'm going to weight in with Kevin and Ed on this one. I use a 16 oz on 90% of my work. I use a 20oz for flower centers and for larger pear shading, etc. On a larger saddle pattern I would use the 20 oz more frequently. I think either one is good choice! Bob

Mark, I have used the Pro-Carve and I think it does help when leather is really tough, however I find that casing with the soap is better for me. I have a whole bottle of the stuff I will probably never use. More often than not I find that people aren't getting their swivel knife blades sharp enough and look to products like Pro-Carve to make the difference. Every now and then, however, I try it again. Bob ABOSOLUTELY!

My method for casing is similar to those already posted, but I'll go through it anyway. First I rough cut my piece out of the side. I think dip the entire piece in a bowl of water in which I've added a small amount of Joy dish soap. At this point I will slick the piece in all directions with a glass slicker, causing the leather to stretch. Next I take a piece of trimmed sheepskin..dip it in water...work up a little lather on a bar of Ivory soap and wipe that all over the piece. I then let the piece sit out until it begins to return to it's natural color...almost to the point where you would want to start carving. I feel the use of the soap helps lubricate your swivel knife when cutting leather that is "sticky" due to residual acids/chemicals resulting from the tanning process. I then seal everything in a plastic garbage bag or freezer bag and leave it alone for a day. I don't put it in the refrigertor unless I know I'm not going to get to it for a couple of days. When I'm ready to tool, I remove the piece from the plastic bag and slick the entire piece again. At this point the slicking process is compacting the surface of the leather, making the density of the leather more consistant to tool. Now I glue the leather to a piece of 1/4 acrylic, using rubber cement(on belts I use a couple of layers of packing tape). It remains on the acrylic until I'm finished tooling. I am not concerned about the residual rubber cement on the back because I line everything I do. Depending on what the project is, determines whether of not I cut the piece to size before mounting to the acrylic...it is not crucial one way or the other. If I don't want to cut a piece to size before mounting it, but need the finished edges so that I can use dividers to established a margin, I will cut the lines of the finished edge with my swivel knife. I can then finish cutting to size when I remove the leather from the acrylic. Well that's it...not real complicated. I may include some unnecessay steps, but to date this is my process.... Bob

He makes 12 oz too, Harvey. he had one at Wickenburg....I really liked it! Bob

Happy Birthday Casey! Bob

Ed, Wayne is a tool maker who goes to all the leather shows. His mauls don't have the beautiful wood handles like you made on this one, they're leather like Barry's. The contour is what reminded me of Wayne's. I would think mauls like this one would be in high demand! Function is primary of course, but function and beauty is supreme! Who wouldn't want one of those on their bench? Really nice!