tomsmith85717

Nice! Keep it up!

Hose clamps! Honestly go try some things and then come back here and you tell us. You are not wasting time or leather as long as you learn something.

this 1000x this. I will add you need a work table big enough to roll out the hides you buy ( if you only work with double shoulders than that is the size you need if you work with whole hides than that is the size you need) anything smaller WILL effect you productivity negatively by some margin. Make a point of clearing off your to clear off your table nightly. Just use some sort of table cover when using dyes. I like a big solid place to pound things on so to me a table is just not the right tool for that job I have a post that is the same height of my table right next to my table. The only one who can say what optimum for you is you, that said its at least 2 to 3 times bigger than you think.

Honestly you need a cylinder arm and a post bed to do everything you would want to make with leather, and then you need a suitable machine to do the linings. The equipment to make good bags is probably only slightly cheaper than whats needed to make shoes. IF you are dead set on a patcher you really need to get one with the absolute largest bobbin that company makes. The ONLY reason I would recommend a patcher for bags (other than repairing them) is for ridiculously artful stitching like if you wanted to make vines or lines following bees or birds... For $500 go take a look and take some thread and needles... and a bag give it a shot see if it can do what you think it can do. I have a cobra class 26 and it is fine I have some issues with its mid grade Chineseium construction but I think I got my moneys worth (I make wallets and bags daily). the next machine I plan on buying isnt a new sewing machine but either a splitter or skiver... then a post bed, unless one drops in my lap. Edge guides are nice but not necessary then only help so much .

My thoughts are Glue, stitch, & rivet if something needs to stay in place, and I mean good old fashioned burr rivets.

I say try to salvage your belts, but if they dont look good pitch them or give them away to a church/ thrift store. You really dont have anything to loose. In the future you now know a better way.

I want to chime in with my perspective. Monthly cost with no monthly release schedule... makes me say nope. monthly cost with 50 videos already in the can, sure. patreon only subscription sure you make vids I pay for them as they come out. I am willing to pay for your knowledge. But I am the kind of guy who would pay you to get in in one sitting or over the course of a month... or buy a dvd. I am not the kind of guy to pay you $4 a month weather or not you give me $4 of value.

Yep, that's just plywood, you are fine. There are versions of plywood that wouldnt do that, but they dont make industrial sewing machine tables out of it.

I think my current plan is to see if I get a pair of marx or ginghers for christmas... If I do and I like them I will keep them, if not to ebay they will go. I will report back either way. I have $2 snips and $10 snips... I can see where about 3 of the extra dollars goes but not 7... I just dont want to spend $30+ only tho think I would have been better off to buy a dozen $2 snips.

I have a thread burner, it is awesome. You cant thread the needle if you use a thread burner.

Here is the thing, a lot of pigs are slaughtered before they can grow a thick skin. Pig skin is tasty so a lot more of it is put into the food channel rather than the leather channel. Most people who want pig skin want it thin as it is really strong even when thin. I have no idea why it is bullet pointing but it looked cool so I left it.

anybody know of any good Black Friday/ Cyber Monday/ Holiday deals? I know Tandy is selling small skins (mainly goat and lamb) for $10 limit 5. They also have some SB foot sides for $60 limit 1. Any other good deals floating out there for the advanced hobbyist?

So I have used several kinds of thread snips( or what ever you want to call them) I have noticed that when cutting the heavier threads they get dull quick. I currently have some supper cheap stamped metal ones that are just mangling the thread instead of cutting them. Tried resharpening them but that hasnt been going well. My questions are: 1 What is the preferred name for this device. 2 Any recommendations on brands or styles to look at. 3 Advice on sharpening them. I need some wisdom about these tools and don't want to spend years of my own time to gain it so give me what you got in that department.

My fu is glue stitching when you need to. If YOU dont need to glue it, then dont. I also hate those tapes...

Not really, think about it when you get anything wet it gets darker. I am sure there are some space age chemicals that would condition the leather, but you would probably get cancer from using the belt. Chalk this one up to experience. The next one you do you will know to oil the leather before working it a bit and then stain accordingly. If you dont want it to get too dark apply a light coat of oil and wait like 2 weeks to a month it will disperse evenly through the leather and not be too noticeable. I am reminded of a russian expression, I will paraphrase in english. "The first pancake is always lumpy." This is the approach I use when making something with a new leather. As for the best time to condition the leather it might be a case of multiple times, as there are just too many variables. Never forget that leather is an agricultural product and thus there will always be a fair amount of flying by the seat of your pants. Good luck, have fun, make some cool things.

Affordable is really dependent on your budget.

I will probably go to Tandy on black Friday. I will keep an eye out for deals at other places too.

Its a hammer!

Between the oils in your skin, the thinness of the leather, and the fact your wrist doesn't change in size and shape all that much... I dont think it will really matter.

Here is the rub with leather sewing machines, there are 3 kinds out there. One is the crusty "toy" I will only get used for 10 hours a year and kept in the garage kind (chinese made found on ebay for sub $500), Antique pre 1918( when people lived and died never traveling more than 50 from where they were born in their lifetime) machines because you had to repair and make things yourself if you lived more than 15 miles from someone who could and was willing to do it for you. Lastly are industrial machines, they are designed to do ONE thing and they do it very well and can do it all day everyday with proper maintenance, they are made to make money and therefore they will cost a bit of money. My opinion is, and it is worth exactly what you are paying for it, If you are making two holsters a month a good stitching chisel, pricing iron or probably the best choice a crimson hide chisel set would do you fine. It will take a lot of time but the cost is super low. If you are trying to make 2 a week, this is tough... you would be making 100 in a year that means you could up your price by $35 and absorb the cost of the machine in a year... Now if you were trying to make one a day then yeah buy a $3500 machine and dont look back, hell you will need a $3000 clicker too unless you want to spend 2 hours a day cutting leather. Now if you just want a machine to say you have one, be patient and keep your eye out and your ear do the ground go talk to luggage and shoe repair shops they might have some good leads on used stuff and folks who can find you a machine that fits you needs. Either way good luck, have fun, be productive, and make some cool shit!

Tandy has a september special for what they call "Rustler sides" they are SB foot hides I have seen them in black, mahogany, brown , espresso, tan, orange tan. Some have pebble grains some have smooth tight grain, Right now they are $89 and are about 20+ Sq Ft. I may have bought 5 of them.

I got it to start unwinding and got all the thread out. Anyone with a cobra 26 looking at this in the future www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvEsOKqdPZ4 is a good video on how to pop out the bobbin case.

I use pledge with future shine on my miniature wargaming figures as the first coat of varnish. It is really just a thick acrylic that is water soluble. That said I have never used it on leather.

So I bought a cobra class 26. I was trying to figure out some motor speed settings... I forgot to take out the bobbin and bobbin thread got wrapped around the base of the hook. How do I take out the hook to clean out the thread? OR point me towards a service manual with a similar hook set up... https://photos.app.goo.gl/BNpjyRumwUVAlNvF3 https://photos.app.goo.gl/cn3pyBOU17Gpbggc2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/46Uf099vG8xyKmAE2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/0AgXRrwXhBg4lD962

That is a neat release piece of hardware.