Danne

Ok, so I just clarify, I never had and never will have any intention to say that using a pencil and paper to make templates are not a good option for making templates. For me software is the only solution I prefer, and some who read here agree with me, some would never use software for drawings, other will use both paper/pencil and software. And regarding time to learn a new software for drawings like this is something that is quick for me (No I don't say I learn a software like Autocad quick, but I learn the tools needed for making templates for leather goods quick.) I have full respect for whatever methods other people use, since my main interest in this craft is doing custom things, software is a very good solution for me, because for me it's quick to make drawings and add that pocket and make sure stitching lengths are correct. For someone else it can be quicker to use a paper and pencil, everyone is free to choose what they wan't. This thread was not posted to convince people to start using cad-software. I just shared.

For me I don't agree. I often need very good precision, down to around 0.5mm and a lot of parts with almost the same dimensions and a difference between 0.5-1mm for trimming or a construction for a slim design. It would take me a lot of time making these with pen and paper. On the computer I can start drawing and I can make small changes. I can make a revision after I made my first wallet/watch strap. If I need to make another length of the same watch strap or add a pocket to a wallet it take me minutes instead of hours. Here is an example. Making a 22-20 strap in a different length of this strap would take me like 10 minutes, It would take me A LOT of time doing it with a paper and pen.

The answer to Hondoman is to you also. But I just had to clarify that the stitching lines is no problem here, it does work since this file is a template file that is ready for making all my drawings. I just mentioned it because maybe someone else using this software want me to share the the solution for making stitching lines, which I btw will solve and share for different spi. For me personally making drawings with pen and paper is not an option, because I can do it quicker on the computer, and I can use tools that can measure the distance around curves and count the stitching so it adds up. Something that of course is possible to do without a computer with the help of trigonometry, but it would be very time consuming. But I do think it depends on the type of products if computer software is something that gives a better result (Just have to say, of course I know there are crafters which are a lot better than me who make drawings by hand.) for me it's worth a lot because I can plan out everything in detail before I start my project. So for me it improves the quality of my work. We all do things different, but I shared because I know there are other crafters out there who also make their drawings with computers software. And also for me it would take a lot of time making these drawings on paper with a pen and with good precision. A friend of mine told me one of his customers work with some sort of construction and have done for many years, he still make all drawings with pen and paper, and he said "You would be amazed if you saw how quick he was"

This is not exact dimensions, I just estimated the dimensions for credit cards, and calculated the dimensions based on spi. Also keep in mind I haven't used Autocad since I was in school over 20 years ago. So I click the wrong keys sometimes during the clip. But Autocad is really awesome for making templates. The downside is the high cost for the software, but you can test it for 30 days for free. The reason I even tried Autocad (I have been using Sketchup before) was because you can calibrate your printer so you get exact dimensions in the feed direction. I have tried 1 new and three older laser printers and only one of them was close to perfect dimensions (the really old one) I managed to make a linetype for the stitching, unfortunately I didn't manage to use it in a new file because it didn't align properly, I have to look into what settings I may have changed for it to work. (Probably a font setting I made because it's based on a font) The principe of the linetype (.lin) for this is: A,0,(Stitch length offset 3mm in this case) ,["|",STANDARD,S=(Diagonal length 1.6 for Ksblade),R=(Radii, negative 45 degrees in this case),X=-(X-axis offset to center of prong + stitch length),Y=-(Y-axis offset to center of prong)],0 I'm sure there are better ways to solve this by using shapes instead of a font.

There are solutions for calibrating the print with applications like Autocad. But I do like using Sketchup which is very quick for this type of templates. And I don't think I can calibrate in other way than printing everything smaller. Which would affect other dimensions to, and also when I print multiple pages with template parts they would not be equal in size. But learning another cad application where it's possible to calibrate the print (I would guess a lot of cad-applications where large size plotters are used might have this feature and would probably work well with all my printers)

A very good solution that I might consider. Thank you for your advice.

Hi, Today I have an old HP Laserjet (A cheap version) The dimensional accuracy in the feed direction is +1mm on 200mm. I have now tried four different laser printers. Mine, a friends HP office printer, and my dads super old laser printer, and a cheap Brother printer. The only one that is dimensional accurate is my dads printer. Let's say I print a rectangle 180 x 250. 180 is always perfect, but 250 (feed direction) My HP laserjet: 251mm My friends HP office printer: 251mm Brother printer I bought today (but will return): Somewhere between 250.5 and 251 so let's say 250.7 It may sound like i'm nitpicking here, and some of you might think, but does it matter you can't cut your templates and your leather with that accuracy anyway. And it's correct, but when I let's say do a card pocket section I often leave around 1mm for trimming after glued in place. (I don't like more because I skive some hidden parts in a way that I get thin edges but keep a good durable construction. And when I print a template I plan all my stitching hole carefully, and 1mm to long exterior cause problems. I know I can't cut perfect dimensions, but I don't like that my printer can't do a perfect job. To be honest I don't care how much I have to pay for a printer, but what printer am I looking for? I want a A4 printer, and a laser would be awesome. Any recommendations here? And unfortunately I don't think recommendations like "I have this model of HP and it's very accurate" isn't working, because I think if I would buy like 10 of the same model they would be slightly different because of manufacturing tolerances.

Here in the first and second stitch he show the difference between not casting the thread and casting the thread. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQK8R0oYT8o

I forgot to say something. A perfect result is not the important part, BUT to always try to improve is important. When you have made something, and you look at it and see a couple of things you feel you need to improve, you don't need to improve everything, instead focus on one thing, and think through "How can I improve this?" if you feel unsure, maybe take some small off cuts and make some test pieces, like cutting a small rounded corner and mark it with your wing divider and stitch it. And in a year you can look back and compare and you will see how much you have improved. Also the second coin pouch with the pronounced grain makes it harder for you, choose a flat leather like a slightly stiffer flat veg tan, which will be a lot easier to work with.

Regarding the cutting. To avoid the leather stretching make one primary shallow cut and make sure to put some extra pressure on your ruler (or template) at the end of the cut. When you have made your first primary cut you make one or more cuts until you go through the leather. And make sure you always have a sharp knife. If you use as "snap-off knife" I like Olfa Black max blades. Regarding the stitching, personally I think it looks best with a stitch where you cast the thread, but there are several factors that decide what you should do. I give a couple of examples. If you stitch a pocket edge and the back side of the stitching is inside the pocket (not visible) then it's better to stitch "regular" without casting the thread. (Especially if it's thin leather) If I stitch a top edge on a wallet and the total thickness is around 1.3-1.5mm and I use let's say red thread and the exterior is black and interior red, I would stitch without cast, inside will be straight, but the exterior will have a similar look all the way around. Let's instead take my latest wallets I shared here with black exterior and orange interior and the outer stitch is black, here I choose to cast all the way around (stitched from the outside) Why, and how? I cast and I don't use extreme angles when I tension the thread which gives me a nice slant on the inside (where I have a large contrast between leather and thread. On the exterior top part the stitch straightens out because it's relatively thin, but since the thread have the same color as the leather it still looks good. Is it possible to stitch a edge around 1.5-2mm in total thickness with a nice slant on both sides? yes with thinner thread in combination with slim holes, or with (X-punching, punched holes with the same iron from both sides before assemble and stitch without cast) And it's even possible with slightly thicker thread (which for me is 0.45-0.51mm (Two weights of thread from Meisi and Sajou) but it's not easy, and requires different tension angles and tension depending on the stiffness of the leather you are using. I always decide what will get the best result. Let's say I would make a super thin strap around 1.5-1.8mm and I use a thread with the thickness around 0.3-0.35mm the exterior is red, and lining is black, and I stitch with black thread, I would not cast the thread to make sure I get a nice even slanted front on my strap. A straight stitch on the back side doesn't have to look bad if you are consistent (and when you stitch a new type of leather make a test piece where you try different angles and tension. I hope this help a little bit (Ps. I still struggle with stitching, sometimes the result is really good, other times it doesn't really look like I wish it would, but NEVER change tension angles while you stitch if you are not satisfied, a consistent stitch is still the most important part.

I can't answer your question, but from someone who have been using FAC from Sajou, I can say that most people agree with me when I say that Meisi linen is a better choice and more consistent. You can also buy them in small cards, small spools and large spools, and they have a lot more colors to choose from. And you don't need to throw up a lot of the spool because of "lumps" in the thread. Some people here will maybe say but Sajou lin cable have "blabla longer linen strands and produced in a better way" Linen is not durable to wear and tear, and will never be a good choice for that wallet someone wear in their jeans pocket (not matter which brand you buy) also if you feel like Meisi is interesting I would recommend you to get their free sample pack (you pay shipping) and you might like their Xiange Twist which is a poly thread with a linen feel. There is a reason most top crafters on for example Instagram have gone from FAC to Meisi.

Practice a lot on scrap pieces when it comes to edge painting, then you can experiment and find a way that works for you. Try different grits of sandpaper. And the most important part with edge paint that have relatively low viscosity (Which I think is the best edge paints in terms of durability, just amateur thoughts because i'm self taught) is to make sure every layer is sanded flat before your next layer, or you will just keep painting layer after layer with paint and never get rid of the imperfections in the edge. And also if you don't have a fileteuse (helps to smooth the edge after the first coat.) then it's even more important that you make sure you have a decent edge to start with, but not burnished, you want something for the paint to adhere too. Just ask if you have any questions, we are a lot of people here who are willing to help each other.

I'm not really sure what you mean. The pockets are cut into shape, then they are creased (decorative line you make with a manual creaser or an electric creaser/Fileteuse) after this they are painted. Here you see some photos from a similar wallet I made but with horizontal card pockets: And here you have a tutorial I wrote on how to paint edges: (Always do test pieces with new leather, for example step four is not suitable for all types of leathers and creasing irons.)

Thank you for the clip. That way don't really work for me, since I overlap my pockets. I have done some tests and it's hard to make two close to identical pieces and it also have to match up close to perfect for the stitch lengths to match up. When it's just two edges it's no problem, then I can trim the rest against the exterior edge after glued in place. Like this one. The "top piece" under the card pockets are skived under the card pocket edges outer corners to reduce bulk. (See the red arrow)

Thank you

Thank you for your input here. We all tend to do things different, but sometimes it's worth a lot to listen to how other do things, and not get stuck with a way to do something, when there can be better solutions. I really like your handles on your templates.

See my first post, you can't stitch that part without removing the pockets. or it might be possible with curved needles, but at least I would not be able to restitch it so it looks good without removing pockets.

Yes, that's the reason I started this thread, to discuss techniques for flush cutting with really good precision. It depends on the weight of leather, stiffness, thickness of thread, and also tension angles. Let's say I have a black exterior and red interior, if I stitch with black thread I use different tensions angles (To get a nice slant on the back side, but it little less slant on the front) if I stitch with red thread I will use other tension angles so I get a better slant on the front and a more "overlapping" stitch at the back. (In this example I stitch from the exterior side)

I don't really understand what you mean? You punch the holes on both parts before assemble, and stitch them without casting the thread.

I mean i'm sure it's ok to roll it to flat cardboard, I mean you can buy smaller quantities like that from both Sajou and Meisi. The problem here was probably that I rolled the thread around the cardboard and not the cardboard against the thread if that make sense, so I started twisting the thread while rolling it up.

Oh I forgot to mention, I plan to start to x-stitch (punch with the same iron from both sides before assemble)

Thank you. And also a tip. DON'T roll up Meisi Xiange twist on a piece of cardboard if you stitch parts of the wallets before it's finished. WOW it took ages to stitch this wallet, every stitch resulted in a "ball of thread" and three times a knot I had to spend like ten minutes to undo.

Thank you for your nice words

I liked the wallet I made in my last post, so I decided to make one for myself in the dimensions so it fits SEK (Swedish currency, and all bills are 66mm in height) Exterior leather: Tärnsjö semi-aniline veg tan Interior leather: Alran Chevre sully Stitched with Xiange Twist and edges painted with Fenice.

I just coat them with some thin oil and wipe them clean. But if your tools rust depends on the relative humidity in your "shop"