Jump to content

ryano

Members
  • Content Count

    403
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ryano

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    ohio, USA

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Motorcycle world and leather horse market harness
  • Interested in learning about
    Work Type Boots and Dress Shoe Making
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    WWW

Recent Profile Visitors

7,482 profile views
  1. The press and jig are from Beiler's Supply in Ronks, Pa., Call and ask for their supply catalog. ph. 717-768-0174
  2. I just heard, not to long ago, Preston passed away. Someone must have the right to print it the book, the book looks like it was printed at a local print shop, but is a great book for Market Style Harness. Not sure what it would cost to have it copied.
  3. The Allies bombed the factory in WW2 and the machine was never made again.
  4. Anymore pictures? Not sure what the middle machine is nor the back two are.. The machine to the left and the right are not leather related tools, but light gauge sheet metal tools as Bruce pointed out.
  5. Is it out of print now? Shoptalk magazine use to sell them, which is the guy who wrote the book.
  6. Looking for a unicorn here, Wanting to purchase a hand operated insole channeling machine for the operation of channeling the midsole for the process of inseaming welted boots and shoes. I just missed a German made machine that was for sale on some website, I saw one being used by a White's Boots employee on a youtube collaboration video between White's Boots and Rose Anvil. Any help or leads will be greatly appreciated. Please PM me with details, I can either pay for or may have something for trade. Examples below with the green one being German and the drawing is American and the one used on the White's and Role Anvil collaboration video. Thank you!
  7. I see this is an old post with a pre 1940 Harley seat pan with no vent holes. I have a few questions, one being how did you stretch the leather to form the leather around the nose area, what size thread was used and what sewing machine? ps: The seat looks darn good! Thanks!
  8. I am getting ready to build a couple pairs of boots, but still need to decide on a couple of things. I have gotten one set of lasts in, but the toe length is very short by almost an inch. I have been in contact with a British last maker, but they do not seem to be in a hurry to get things done by taking forever to send and reply emails. I am curious on how you made your footbed and what tools you used. Lisa Sorrell makes a very convincing argument on how she makes her footbeds by using a cheap stitch groover, a seaming awl and a leather knife; she does not use a welt knife, a feathering knife nor even a welt channel plough as she does construct a typical holdfast. I see you went with Dr Sole half soles. I really like their soles and the colors they offer, but I run into issues with them not having the size and color of sole that I want and if they have the soles, they do not have the heels in that size, I am mainly refering to the red/brown color options and the green options, shipping is also pretty high coming from Vietnam. I would be interested in reading more on the particulars of the construction of your boots. Thank you!
  9. I was always told that hose lines are fat wrinkles, The fibers will be a little more loose and stretchy in that area.
  10. I apply dye and leather balm with atom wax with separate pieces of shearling, defuzz it first, I use the clothes dryer to do the defuzzing, Be sure to wash the piece of the shearing with the atom wax to reuse it. You can get the atom wax in several colors and I use black for MC bags and it leaves a nice satin finish.l let the dye dry first, wipe off the residue then apply the atom wax finish. As far as acrylic finished go, I really like Weaver's Tuff Coat, it comes in clear or black.I wet a sponge to apply WT, I squeeze the water out leaving sponge still wet, but not dripping wet, put the sponbe over the bottle and do a quick flip to get the finish on the sponge. In my opinion, I truly believe Angelus makes the best dyes and finishes, you can get the finish in any color, they have finish like atom wax and several types of acrylic finishes. Their dye is super penetrating and can even dye an edge slicked with gum tragacanth. They also have great leather paint.They also have an acrylic antique finish.
  11. That is he, and he does have a video on quilting, he glued the linen onto the foam. I do not have a good source for the foam anymore, there are different grades of linen applied to the sew foam, but I never had any issues with the low grade linen, actually I think it may be by thread count. There is an Amish buggy shop just down the road from Weaver Leather that use carry it, but I cannot remember their name, but Cowboybob or sewmun may know, they may also know a good soarce, all you can do is as them as they are father and son that owns Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine. Have you asked your leather source about sewfoam? I use the memory foam, like mentioned in the above post, to redo old Harley and Indian seats. I have never quilted with it, but again you would have to glue linen on it. Good luck and practice with cheap vinyl upholstery as it will act almost the same as your leather.
  12. Gavin, The product usually used to get the quilting effect is sewfoam, it is foam with cloth glued on it so the stitching does not pull through. To get the quilted effect and not have the quilting sewn to the liner, sewfoam is it, if you do want the quilting sewn into your linet, then just use foam. You can make sew foam by spray gluing old sheets to the foam or super cheap and thin linen. Now you have to add a shrinking allowance to your cut leather as it shrinks as it gets sewn, be sure to glue the foam to the leather and start stitching in the center and work your way out. Practice to get your shrinking allowances, there is a Latino gentleman on youtube that does a great job teaching and he does not say a word, he does a great job with leather upholstery, i will try to find him and give you the link. Good luck,
  13. What is the thin, flat piece of metal, held down with the vertical slotted screw, just to the right of the arrow shaft, opposite the arrow point? The part looks like it may have a part number on it.
  14. Those dies look pretty odd to me, especially the one with the retaining spring. I saw where a metric conversion converted the outside 24 line snap as 15mm, but did not show conversions of the 2 interlocking pieces, so I would be afraid to try them. Also beware of plastic die listings, they will surely fail. Used dies get listed, on ebay, one in awhile under United Carr. Here is a set of 24 line snap dies that look correct and is only 25% of the usual price of 100 bucks, as you can see look a little different than the ones you posted the link for. https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIE-SET-FOR-HEAVY-DUTY-MIGHTY-SNAP-SIZE-24-5-8-FREE-SHIPPING-USA/264745077024?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3da4094920:g:UGoAAOSwO9ZezpAq&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkXKoKcbeZcOrOku%2BoOBl%2BSxuMciqcoA0WrBomRi4LsqlaDIcA9UrZpXteVa%2FizpLLQVGAyGgtCq0MIjZG2M%2FHVhM5K1BMRvvrqaBHqeXdKK7vx5yRw%2By2zbJ2dze1m8ERco8CkyjdywrXZ23y%2FKFWFIPPsxzn%2FEB80PhQTTDT4DlA8ZWAXQcDRYJNkpZlZMY%2Bd%2FpdRuYJpL8NHrBKVTm%2FR5CFIS70Np6Ovu6qfkkJXLEt2sxJRvbYZhUARJLt2Rz1ZGe3kGjPUzGhtkuBt0U6lOBYteXnZLmzKmq6TmuZ5qJEkQMeW%2FtcBVzvZExeRSMMnEpzsEqUiMJb3gqp5PnJduMoYaHO7MrdSRYRftUS46Ig%2FVmydVbCrFRy%2BA8YBvmsruVTC967c16yHdhvkvHMRkg81hboAcmMAdeDx%2FHqQRNTxKbcB7tGP8wL%2F8l1HwpN5wa0Zvmmk%2BD12xFASnyeHPbNEAqmbd1ltwvjjBLRkt0BFt1DyLxrvmIautl0NjdQwvUXBxU9wl%2FrupPh5ZhI7cSJhaSsCPHy5cBHj4gUmaAC4VGTR9X1q58L4SQz13tGMwt1CvbwgZLrCzRyVUwiFsdAiEJdokkTg8oqnswBmYsk18toKb2v7%2BdS0DqGJzFDh3f5DSR9ehuxyStyYGEysMpYc3wKzOkRqbcvjlY222hXuXAsI9E60moevMPQeUKFLJOQ7hrnzxvfpx4wEmZMHiXVkrI6D5P974ev1rlQnsQYG5eMcEByfPrwEqpXB4aR%2B2jycdIGjkjO6p9j1Zu9yQ%3D%3D|cksum%3A264745077024581f3c6bb92c47c1a7c046fa6f069d7a|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524
  15. I will look for some line 24 snap dies a little later today.
×
×
  • Create New...