JJN
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Posts posted by JJN
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@Vinito, I spent a few minutes looking at the 562 and the 563 side by side and made some observations.
Photo 1 - the opening in the bed casting needs to notched to allow the 'bobbin case opening lever crank' to clear when you slide the saddle to the right for the larger hook.
Photo 2 - you can see the 'bobbin case opening lever crank' is beveled on the upper left corner of the 563 to clear the larger hook.
Photo 3 - You were asking how much to mill the top of the upper bushing. You suggested .100" and the video mentions a few thousands. The goal is to get the finger on the hook assembly to fit at the correct height in the notch of the throat plate. You should be able to measure how much you need to mill the bushing by putting the new hook in position and see how high it sits.
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Good price. That machine head is very heavy! If it is dropped, it can suffer irreparable damage. Just tipping over can break levers, guides and the tension assembly. I take the head off the table and set it inside the truck on the floor on its feet. Prop it up so it doesn't tip over. Get a servo motor for it. Maybe a speed reducer. You can read on this forum about needle and thread combinations.
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The Juki LU-563 is a very good upholstery class sewing machine and is liked and recommended by many of the members here on LeatherWorker. I have one. It will be helpful if you explain what you intend to sew, so people can determine if this machine is a good match for your products. What kind of items are you going to sew? How thick is the leather? How many layers? What size of thread do you want to use?
The 563 will sew about 3/8" thickness with thread ranging from #46 to #138. There are many different feet available for that machine that are inexpensive and plentiful. They are usually referred to as Singer 111 style feet. You can check with the dealers that support this forum in the ads on the top of the pages or look on Ebay. You will need needles designed for leather and a few bobbins on hand. Buy your thread 2 spools at a time so you can wind bobbins and sew at the same time.
Do you have a photo of this machine? What is the condition of it? Does it have a servo motor or clutch motor? Is it working right now? Can you test it with your material? What is the price?
I am sure others on this forum will want to help you and advise you any way they can.
Yes, it is exciting isn't it.
John
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Here is an image I found online. Looks like a needle feed. Maybe built from an Adler design?
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I will check with MJ Foley on Monday to see if I can get these parts from them. I have bought genuine Juki parts from them in the past. It took a while because some of them had to come from Japan, but they finally came through. Hopefully they have these parts in stock. I think the parts I need are:
B1905-563-000 thread take-up lever
B1830-563-0A0 vertical-axis sewing hook asm.
B1824-563-000 bobbin case opening leverI may also need B1129-563-000 frame thread guide-upper, as it may work better guiding the thread with the longer take-up arm.
@Vinito, do you see any other parts needed? I think CowboyBob has a good idea to replace any worn bearings in your case since it is disassembled.
I am really liking that color!
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@Vinito, it makes sense that a larger hook will require a take-up arm with a longer pull to take up the slack thread once the thread passes around the bobbin. I measured my machines and the 563 take-up arm is almost 1/2 inch longer than the 562.
@CowboyBob, do you stock this part?
Here is a genuine Juki take up arm that appears to fit the LU-563. I have bought many items from this seller with only 1 wrong part.
$52.50
Juki part # B1905-563-000
For Juki LU-1508, LU-1508N, LU-1509N, LU-1510, LU-1510-7, LU-1510N, LU-1510N-7
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I like the color and the paint job. That should be a great machine when it is done. Give the paint some time to cure and it will be a nice finish to work on. I watched the video in the earlier post and that 562-563 conversion doesn't look too difficult. I think for you it is a no-brainer to do the conversion since the machine is already disassembled. I have an older 562 and just picked up a 'new old stock' 563 that is still in the factory packaging. I was going to sell off the 562 but you are inspiring me to do the conversion to the 'U' size bobbin too. I see a 'factory' hook assembly on ebay for 80 bucks. I think having both machines here will be helpful. Let me know if you need any measurements from a factory fresh machine.
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The difference between the 206RB and the 206RB-1 is that the -1 has an oiling system that automatically oils the hook from a reservoir and has a felt pad under the top cover to supply oil to the bearing surfaces at the top. The only difference in the -1 manual is the last page that covers the new oil system. I attached a pdf of this page so you can add it to the manual Wiz posted.
When buying a sewing machine, I always look at the amount of oil in the lower reservoir to see if the machine has been properly maintained. I don't like it when they are bone dry.
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That would be a good buy. I paid 500 for mine and feel like I got a good deal. It still looks like new.
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Silky, I imagine there was some crossover as they switched from one model to another. I know Consew/Seiko progressed from their copy of the Singer 111 with model 225 (no reverse) to model 226R (with reverse). Consew then switched to the 255RB with a large bobbin and the 206RB, also with a large bobbin. Consew is the American branded Seiko, made in Japan. Although the 226R and the 206RB have similar capabilities, the 206RB is a completely different design. The 226R is a vertical axis top loading bobbin. The 206RB is a horizontal axis bottom loading bobbin. The 206RB-5 and the 255RB-3 are still being made by Consew in China. So the 206RB-1 is the more modern of the two you are looking at. I have a 206RB-1 and it is a great machine. How much are they asking for machines you are looking at?
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226r1 small G size bobbin. Top loading bobbin.
206rb1 large M size bobbin. Bottom loading bobbin. Easier to set stitch length.
Both max out with 138 thread, but 206rb may handle 207 thread on top. With price and condition being equal, I would choose the 206rb1.
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Great find. Maybe you can mask it and only paint the bed. The upper part of the machine looks pretty good.
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@Gregg From Keystone Sewing Thanks for your comment. The parts list says it was printed in Japan 1988. Could I assume that is fairly close to the manufacturing date of this machine?
Also, I read in another post where you mentioned that there were 3 different castings for the 563. I am aware of the latest casting, the 563N where the hole for viewing the stitch length was removed. What are the differences in the first two castings?
Thanks,
John
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@garypl, Thanks, yes it was on Craigslist. I have a nice 562 set up with its table, I might switch out the heads and sell the 562. I still need to get a servo motor, but this way I'll have the table, large oil pan and knee lift that will fit this machine.
John
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That is a good looking setup. I think you got a great deal with the table and servo motor. It all looks like new.
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@Pintodeluxe, I must be. It is from Seattle. I didn't think I was bidding on it. I didn't know anyone else saw it. This is the second machine I found in that area. The other one was a Ferdco/Juki-Pro 2000.
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I received a shipment from UPS today that I was anxiously waiting for. It is a "new old stock" Juki LU-563 that was never used in it's original Juki packaging. It still has the factory sew-off thread and fabric in it. No rust and no damage. I've been looking for one of these machines and never thought I would find one in this condition. I am afraid to use it, seems like it ought be in a museum or something. LOL What do you folks think of this?
Here are the photos...
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The 206RB-3 has a larger "M" size bobbin. The 226R-1 uses a smaller "G" size bobbin.
With all other things equal, I would look into the 206RB.
Do the machines have a servo or clutch motor. You most likely want a servo motor for better control.
I would look around some more, I think you can do better on the price. Those prices are getting close to new machine prices.
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@Constabulary Thanks for the photos. I want to start learning the history of Singer now.
Did you get to see the clockworks in the clock tower? I would love to see some photos that mechanism.
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1 hour ago, Wizcrafts said:<!DOCTYPE html>
<html lang="en">
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<title>Wizcrafts Server Test Page</title>@Wizcrafts, you are making me feel guilty now.
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37 minutes ago, mikesc said:*what age is "junior college" ?. North American school system ( and French , for that matter ) ages, never "stuck with me"..
Junior college, also called community college today, is a 2 year school after high school. Ages 17-20 in most cases. Also used by adults for continuing education, fun or hobby. Many offer evening classes for people with jobs.
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5 minutes ago, mikesc said:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sand_casting
Learned how to do this many many years ago in school..woodworking too..back in the days when schools used to teach practical things as well as academic .
I learned in junior college. We had to make a 2 piece wooden pattern then we cast in bronze. That kind of learning lasts forever.
Stitches are looped under work
in Leather Sewing Machines
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Leather Sewing Machines is a sub-topic under the main topic of Fabrication. There is another sub-topic under Fabrication called Leather Machinery. That is the place for skiver questions. I hope you get your answers there.