chrisash

The whipping is rather simple Start with the short end about three inches before you need to start the whipping, lay it down the length of the whipping area and a little bit more then run it back up to the top again , so now you have one end plus the rest of the whipping cord at one end and a eye at the far end Now as tight as you can run the thread around and down the area until its just short of the eye, cut the tread and place through the eye Pull on the long tail at the start and pill the eye well into the whipping and cut off both ends left showing. a drop of varnish or clear glue will keep it all tight and in place You could hide a rivet etc under the whipping if you needed extra strength

A good rule for fault finding a engineering problem is to scribe a mark on both the fixed part and moving part before you turn anything, that way you can always go back to the same original position, rather than start building up lots of small differences that completely crap up your item

To make new thread is relatively easy to do, the problem arises with the marketing of such tread.Where are you going to place your thread in the current market, at the top end, middle or lowest cost. The low cost is quite a large market but covered well by the Far eastern countries. The top and middle area's mainly covered by a very traditional group of people who will require a lot of proof the item is significantly better then existing threads and will require a massive amount of marketing to make headway into both area's Also with thread it's quite a slow moving item, people don't go out and buy 1500 meter cops every month, so stock costs could be very high especially if selling many colours Can it be done Yes, but very hard to challenge existing market,

Many thanks some great stamps

Afraid Barry King is far outside my financial comfort zone. More for the professionals who can recover the costs with selling better looking gear

Looking to buy a basket weave tool that's larger than the standard Tandy size but not silly money

Thanks guys most enlightening, I guess the marketing folk thought that having a different name would make customers only go to them to buy needles rather than a generic needle, Further question does the needle thickness get thinner (not shank) if the size goes down from say 130 to 90

just looking up PFAFF needles size 134 Check online and it states the needles are the same as PFAFF 134 797 135x5 135x7 DPX5 135x Are these really the same common needle and if so why so many different descriptions

Sorry cannot answer your question, but the designer of that machine definitely had some style rather than the ugly machines before and after by other makers

I would offer to swap wives with you, my wife would have killed me, if i melted plastic in HER oven

Fantastic work How did the Old Timers waterproof them

Thanks wiz, but thoughts are more on the type of machine they manage on rather than how they use it, people could easily ask specific data direct if required, just thought simpler to see what people use rather than hundreds of "Is this machine any good"

Guess with no takers it was seen as a bad idea, O well I tried

So much information on the forum about sewing machines, much from experts in their field, but what about what machines members use every day. I propose on this thread members enclose some simple data on what they have and experience of, something like Machine Make and model number, Proven Thickness of veg tan they have used it for, Remarks including spares problems, clutch or servo, Walking feet etc

There is some posts on using 3D printers to make the stamps drawn by acad and others

I am on limited budget (retired) so I rang around all the local upholstery makers asking if they had any off-cuts, ended up with about 10 kilo of chrome leather in all colours and sizes, some large enough to make Tote bags from Amazing how they reject the leather for such minor scrapes or blemishes, most were marked by chalk and you really had to search to find the fault why they had rejected using it

Probably a silly answer , but have you put a drop of oil on the hook

I am not sure if you are using a adhesive made for gold leaf like here https://www.pullingers.com/p/3022976/gilding-glues-gold-size-varnishes/winsor-newton/winsor-newton-japan-gold-size-75ml?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=pricecomp&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&gclid=CjwKCAjw7vraBRBbEiwA4WBOn4hGQF-urtPmzERou6hXzkPP-U-FrA0S0j2pPVHs_SGCK1Yy6d9lpxoCAvMQAvD_BwE

Many thanks folk Some great suggestions, think i will try to make a thinner awl first and see how it goes otherwise revert to Ritz, As you say the 40s is very fine but also very strong for its size, I am a believer of the Colin Chapman theory on making things, thin or strong enough to do the job as long as it lasts the expected life, so not over engineered. Mind you he designed Racing cars and not wallets

Hand stitching a wallet using fine 40s bonded nylon thread, if i use my pricking iron 3.38 mm or chisel the holes will still glare at you with the tiny thread and using awl will give a longer but thinner slot I don't really want to use larger thread say Ritz 0.45 if I can avoid it Is there a way to reduce the holes after sewing? (water might work , but will stain the natural finish i want to keep)

One small point ISO 9002 does not mean a part that is made is of high quality, its a strange thing to understand but it just means the quality is standard throughout the part, If they make a low quality part say a tin bottle opener, then as long as all of them are made to the same quality then ISO 9001 is OK You could make a better product and that would be no acceptable to your present ISO 9002 qualification unless re qualified with the new part So make every part to the same specification and your ok regardless if its crap or first class

Thanks it is a Necchi, the head is going for £175 on ebay but whilst the seller states it was working when taken apart, now states for repair or spares so keeping a mile away from potentially large bills. I doubt spares would be easy anyway

I think the idea of the wax paper it to have both sides glued so you get the strength of the contact glue and the wax paper keeps both sides apart until both in place

Can anyone please identify this machine the only thing showing is a tag marked 902-155

If I was doing something for that purpose I would make a leather frame for weapon as a shoulder bag and then make various colored slip overs in say five basic colours to match closer the clothing they were wearing at the time Sorry never seen any women wearing something attached to a belt