kgg

You have two basic options: i) 90 degree binders which are typically pretty expensive per binding tape size probably in the $70 USD range. The main advantage is you can get a tighter turning radius on bends. ii) Inline binders which are relatively inexpensive per binding tape size probably in the $15 USD range. The main advantage is you can also use them on flatbeds. Here is older version of what I done on a KOBE LS-1341 which is very similar to your Class 26 and it may give you some ideas. The binder has a swing away base. I use a similar setup on my 441 clone. kgg

You got to remember the leather sewing industry is a much smaller market then the fabric industry so most machines specify fabric needles like DPx17 needles (needle system 135X17). The spec's are the same for 135x16 and 135x17 except for the tips like @Northmount stated. Leather pointed needles (135x16) cut through while fabric needles (135x17) separate the fabric fibers. kgg

Here is what I done with my 441 clone to do edge binding using the inexpensive inline binders that I use on all my other machines. This may give you some ideas. kgg

Couple of questions: i) You say you are using V69 nylon and V92 polyester thread with 100-140 needles. questions: Are you using system 135x16 or system 135x17 needles. Are you using the same size thread for the top thread as you are in the bobbin. Are you using metal or plastic Singer 15 bobbins? Question: i) How many stitches per inch are sewing at?? The 100d Cordura is very thin. If I remember correctly Cordura is similar to Ripstop. Getting a nice bottom stitch may require either more layers or a filler between layers to allow the bobbin thread to lay correctly. When I sew 1000d Ripstop I find i have to use about 5 spi with at least 4 layers and I use the system 135 x 16 which is leather point made to cut through rather then separate fabric fibers. Any chance of a video of your machine sewing and showing your top thread path from the thread spool to the eye of the needle? Also here is a link for thread size to needle size: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html kgg

I do agree. I also have a customer that has not paid and that just irks me to no end. Not leather related but the principal is the same. This client boarded his personal dog with us recently and didn't pay. Not that the amount is a great amount but... Over the years when he was an active police dog handler we boarded both his working dog and his pet dog never a problem always got paid. Now that he has moved onto other police related duties he has become, to be polite, a not so good a client. I did see this in the past back in 2008 / 2009 when the economy went down the toilet. How I coped with the "delinquents" and not peeve the good clients off in the past is when that individual wants / needs our service they pay for the amount owing and the amount for that visit up front by cash or e-transfer. No pay, have a nice day. I figure this is directly related to the state of the economy. Not they are bad people but... kgg

There is a couple of links to video's of the moving arm. I assume there are specific feed dogs and needle for each machine. i) https://www.facebook.com/khsewing/videos/how-the-moving-arm-working-in-binding/554470568589194/ ii) https://www.facebook.com/100064388931666/videos/223974593051605/?__so__=permalink Unless you are going to turn the machine into a dedicated edge binding machine it seems to me like a lot of extra work just to do edge binding and then have to strip it down to do regular sewing. kgg

The cost difference between a brand name like Juki, PFAFF, Alder and a clone is going to be substantial ($2500 vs $5000+) so traveling to test ride a machine is a great plan as this is going to be an expensive outlay of cash. When you go to visit a vendor bring along some samples of leather you would be sewing with the thread size you would like. Hopefully the vendor has a LS-1341 there as well so you can compare it to a LS-1342 as you may decide you can do without the lift feature and save some dollars. All the machines in the 341 class will handle V138 and some claim to be able to use V207 in 3/8" plus thickness. Once you are at or above the 1/2" thickness consistently you probably should consider a Class 441 machine like a Juki TSC-441 or clone like a Cowboy 4500, Cobra Class 4 to name a couple. There are many clones of the Juki LS-1342 and another option maybe something like a Thor GC-1341 ( https://sunnysewingcenter.com/index.php/product/thor-gc-1341-cylinder-arm-walking-foot-sewing-machine-for-leather-upholstery-and-heavy-weight-materials/ ). A couple of reference charts: Leather weight to Thickness: https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/pages/leather-thickness?srsltid=AfmBOopqG07GeZKU1T96bRXTs1dHSx0rvBmYIep5bJEKUcl3ltioJRUZ Needle size vs Thread size: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html If you want to reference someone type the "@" symbol then type a letter of the persons user name, a list will appear and then just click on the persons user name in the list. kgg

The Cobra 26 is a hybrid clone of the older Juki LS-341 with what appears to be a Alder type bobbin assembly rather then a Juki style. The Techsew 4800 is sort of a clone of the Juki LS-1342 expect it has the larger nose gauge of the Juki-LS-341. The large knob on the top of the machine changes the vertical stroke of the presser foot and walking foot (amount of alternating vertical movement). @Wizcrafts has offered some excellent advise. How thick are the seams you are planning on sewing / crossing over?? Where are you located?? kgg

Just for future reference: Needle to Thread Chart: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html kgg

The thickness to don't think is the problem I think it has more to do with you needle thread size combination. If I am reading the label on the thread correctly it is metric 20 size which is V138 thread. The metric 120 which is a size #19 needle is for metric 30 which is v92 thread. The correct size of needle needs to be a minimum of 140 metric (#22) and max 180 metric (#24) in real thick stuff. The needle hole made in the leather has to be large enough to basically accommodate 3 strands of thread, the top thread strand and the two strands of bobbin thread on either side of the top thread forming the loop. kgg

That took effort. Not for the faint of heart. Nicely done. kgg

If the cable slips again just make a complete wrap of the cable around the bolt. I don like KISS solutions. kgg

As a couple of suggestions to tighten up the cable: i) add two nuts and large flat washers to the threaded bolt to sandwich the cable. ii) I had a machine that had a half moon pulley on the end of the knee lift shaft that the lifting cable went into. I can't remember the make or model but here is a sketch of sort of what I remember but using a small wheel pulley. kgg

Looking on their Milwaukee website they say i) " We constructed the durable tote with 1680D ballistic material and all-metal hardware so it can withstand harsh jobsite environments." There is no mention of any plastic. ii) "The PACKOUT™ 10” Structured Tote features tear resistant layered ballistic material, a reinforced structure that holds its shape over time, and has a carrying capacity of up to 50 pounds." From those two statements there is no plastic being sewn. The multi layers of ballistic material would give the sides of the bags the needed structure strength to keep the sides stiff. Sewing ballistic material is probably going to be tough on needles and will need either be sandwiched behind layers on fabric or have multiple layers to be able to bury the thread knots in. I agree. I think punching through 1/8" or close thick LDPE or HDPE is going to pose problems as cracking / splitting maybe a real concern. I also think you would probably be into using a Class 441. kgg

What machine are you planning on using?? kgg

The Cobra 26 is essentially a hybrid clone that has the same specs as most of the other Juki LS-341 clones except it appears to be using a Alder bobbin assembly rather then your typical Juki style assembly. In this class there a lot of capable clones of the Juki LS-341 to add to your list like the Cowboy CB341, Thor GC-1341, Techsew 2750, Kobe LS-1341 to name a few. Basically it comes down to who you feel will give you the best service, access to replacement parts and of course dollars. kgg

Looking forward to seeing your arrangement. I assuming you are going to tie to the existing presser lift lever. kgg

There are a lot of Fusion 360 youtube video's that would be helpful in getting started and as you use it the easier it gets. Just choose one CAD program and stick with it. Thank you. I did not include any of the typical 3D machines you see on buying sites like A mazon as I discounted them from the very beginning. If I can offer anything just drop me a note. kgg

My take on 3D Printers so take it with a grain of salt. Like all things it comes down to what you want it to do and dollars. Once upon a time the 3D printers were for your tinkers and now they have evolved in print accuracy, speed, accuracy and ease of repairs/ replacement parts. It use to be that Prusa lead the pack for the hobbyist but they have fallen behind both in the customer service and equipment capabilities while still being expensive for what you get. The company that has really changed the filament 3d printers is the Bambu Labs equipment. From the cardboard box to being up and running with your first print it takes about maybe 30 minutes. It is decent equipment, fast, accurate and replacing parts is pretty straight forward as well as cost effective. The Bambu Lab PS-1 for about should do most hobbyists needs. I want a 3D printer to be Fast as I hate waiting and the prints to be accurate, less 0.25mm tolerance. Beside the 3D printer you need: i) good CAD design software which can have steep learning curve like Autodesk Fusion 360 ii) good filament iii) filament dehydrator I own 2 Prusa's (now gathering dust) and a Bambu Lab X1-Carbon 3D Printer. I run the hell out my machines. kgg

One of the most valuable machines for me are 3D printers which allows me to print stamps, gauges, table tops, edge binding attachments, etc not only for the sewing machines but other other equipment like hand presses, burnisher etc. kgg

I did have to adjust the arm on the head side of one machine where the lever actually does the lifting as it was binding there slightly. kgg

Thank you, that was my cheap KISS solution.

I find that a bit odd. I just checked my Techsew 2750 and the only thing I can see that would cause the lifting to be hard would be an incorrectly placed, overly strong spring that returns the lift to a natural down position on the lever system or the screw on the pivot point is tighten to tight. Any chance of a photo showing how your lift is now setup. kgg

@DieselTech @greygeist3191 @Brokenolmarine Thank you kgg

A lot better. Glad you got that pretty well solved. kgg