kgg

Thank you, I haven't been accused of that before. HaHa kgg

The Alder is not a post bed, it is a cylinder bed machine. Do you know what model it is, do they have the manual? The machine looks in pretty good shape. kgg

Did you check the nameplate of the motor too see what voltage the motor on the machine is rated for? kgg

What size of thread are you using? If you are using V69 you should be able to get a pretty good selection of colors in the domestic sewing machine size spools at most sewing supply shops. kgg

Maybe I'm just cheap but I love to tinker and for the most part I have the time. I approach things where if I need / want something simple I'll usually give it a go first. Sort of jack of all trades, master of none approach. If I fail well then I'll buy a tailor made. kgg

Your dryer receptacle is normally a four prong 220v, 30 amp so first check the voltage and amp rating of the motor. Typically the 50 amp 3 prong plugs are meant for 220v where you have two hots and a ground. I would suspect the motor on the Alder is 120 v. kgg

Thank you. That is a nice burnisher as it stays close to the body of the machine so you can apply a lot of pressure. kgg

Aaron Martin Harness Ltd. in Ontario and their website for those needles is aaronmartin.com/product.php?cat_id=989&catview=20&submit=View kgg

I think the the problem of missed stitches and catching on the back stitching is the size of needle for the size of thread you are using. A good reference for needle selection would be the one Toledo has on their website ( tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). For V207 you would need a #24 or possibly a #25 needle for thick / sticky / multi layers to create a hole large enough so the top thread can be caught correctly by the hook. kgg

Nice work. kgg

There is no question the Proedge are nice looking burnishers. They are on the pricey side for someone who can turn their own with either a wood lathe or metal lathe. I am planning on turning one using a metal lathe that is also another reason for the question about using metal as a burnisher. kgg

Thank you all for the info. If I go with wood I would like to us a North American species. I can see the softwoods like spruce cracking / breaking / wearing or even your softer hardwood species where as your tougher hardwoods like your eastern iron woods, white oaks and hard maples being stronger. This info has sent me down the wood rabbit hole and so far have found the following info: A lot burnishers use the non native to North America rosewood Cocobolo which has Janka rating of 2,960 Ibf Native to North America: i) Southern Live Oak (Quercus virginiana) has Janka rating of 2680 Ibf ii) Eastern Ironwood (Ostrya virginiana) has Janka rating of 1,860 Ibf iii) Hard maple has Janka rating of 1,500 Ibf iv) White Oak has Janka rating of 1,360 Ibf As a reference your typical White Spruce has Janka rating of 460 Ibf. This raises the question if a good burnisher is based on hardness why not just go with metal or are there other factors? I couldn't find him so if you have a link I would appreciate it. kgg

As an quick example: Singer 29k70 and 73 ( ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-29-leather-stitching-sewing-machine.html ) Singer 29k71 ( youtube.com/watch?v=0LPAtMRN5ZU ) kgg

i) A & E ( American & Efird Canada Inc.) (514) 352-4800 or online at amefird.ca ii) Cansew (28 Apex Rd, North York, ON) at (416) 782-1122 or online at cansew.com kgg

I am planning on turning a 3" diameter burnisher and am wondering what material would be best suited and why for burnishing using a motorized burnisher? metal: steel / brass / aluminum wood: soft woods / hardwoods Any thoughts kgg

I particularly liked the video at about the 4:30 mark showing a excellent visual of the drop method of adjusting the bobbin tension. kgg

This maybe true that the drawer isn't original as I can only go back about 20 years of ownership. I did get the original manual, original table top and can only assume the base and drawer are also original. The Singer's did come with more ornate front designs similar to that of the 127/128's treadles on models prior to the 29k-70 series but they seemed to have changed to the plain face design on the earlier 70 series. I have never seen a Alder Patcher from the 40's or 50's and can't comment on the drawers that they came with. kgg

Just another China copy of the drop feed zig zag not a walking foot Singer 20U which were made for fabric up to denim weight. There are lots of them available from a number of suppliers with various badges on them. kgg

I have to keep that one in mind for future use as my area is on the second floor and machines on their out-the-door journey or are being overhauled are kept in the basement. kgg

Checkout Japan Sewing Machine & Supply Co (146 West Beaver Creek Rd Unit 5, Richmond Hill, (905) 764-0100) ask for Chris good service and excellent prices. The price of $433 for the PFAFF was a pretty decent price. They aren't a overly popular brand name in Ontario which probably has to due with upfront new machine cost and aftermarket access to parts / accessories being expensive. kgg

Glad you did get it home in one piece. kgg

The advantage, I think, is being able to use larger threads without the machine having to contend with the stresses of forcing the needle through and moving thick material. The benefit is being able to use a less capable less expensive machine while giving a good looking stitch. kgg

The only thing I would add is a Cordless drill and bits. kgg

The older Singers 29k 71, 72, 73 in particular the 1949 were rated for a #25 needle but the sliding needle plate / cover for the bobbin for those larger threads only came drilled for a #24 needle which is still V207. The newer clones are I agree rated for V138 and some even less. kgg

Great description of the China Patcher except for the motor part. kgg