kgg

Just another China copy of the drop feed zig zag not a walking foot Singer 20U which were made for fabric up to denim weight. There are lots of them available from a number of suppliers with various badges on them. kgg

I have to keep that one in mind for future use as my area is on the second floor and machines on their out-the-door journey or are being overhauled are kept in the basement. kgg

Checkout Japan Sewing Machine & Supply Co (146 West Beaver Creek Rd Unit 5, Richmond Hill, (905) 764-0100) ask for Chris good service and excellent prices. The price of $433 for the PFAFF was a pretty decent price. They aren't a overly popular brand name in Ontario which probably has to due with upfront new machine cost and aftermarket access to parts / accessories being expensive. kgg

Glad you did get it home in one piece. kgg

The advantage, I think, is being able to use larger threads without the machine having to contend with the stresses of forcing the needle through and moving thick material. The benefit is being able to use a less capable less expensive machine while giving a good looking stitch. kgg

The only thing I would add is a Cordless drill and bits. kgg

The older Singers 29k 71, 72, 73 in particular the 1949 were rated for a #25 needle but the sliding needle plate / cover for the bobbin for those larger threads only came drilled for a #24 needle which is still V207. The newer clones are I agree rated for V138 and some even less. kgg

Great description of the China Patcher except for the motor part. kgg

This is what I do when I have to disassemble a industrial sewing machine for transport in my Honda Fit. Moving any industrial sewing machine is best done with two people but can be done easily done by one person if you break it down to relatively easily moveable pieces. 1. Cut top thread and tie off / tape the end closest to the thread spool to the machine. Remove thread from needle. Have the pressor foot in the down position. Don't remove top thread from tension disks so when you have the machine installed at home it will be just a matter of tying the top thread from the spool to the taped down cuttoff and pulling the thread from the needle end. That way you don't have to figure out how the machine gets the top thread path. 2. Remove all other items from the table top like i) the thread spool holder ii) tilt back stop remove it as well iii) bobbin winder. 3. As a lot of machines have the drive belt fully enclosed above table level remove the drive belt cover. The cover probably has a couple of screws holding it in place. 4. Tilt machine back slightly so the belt can be slide of the machines pulley as well as removed from the drive motor. 5. Tilt machine back a little further and lift straight up the machine from table. This is easier done with two people. I lay the machines on their rear side on something soft like a folded moving blanket. 6. Drain oil from oil pan by removing drain plug and wipe dry the pan with a cloth. If it just has a drip pan just wipe it dry. 7. Tilt sewing machine table over so the underside is exposed but put a cloth or piece of cardboard down so the top doesn't get scratched. 8. Remove the bolts that are holding the motor foot pedal and connecting rod from the metal side legs and motor. 9. Remove the screws, bolts, nuts that are holding the motor, controller, on/off switch etc to the table top. Pull motor straight up from the motor mounting bolts. If it is a clutch motor it will be heavy and is removed much easier with two people. If the machine has a servo motor I don't remove it, the controller or on/off switch from the the table top. My thought is I am probably going to replace the clutch motor anyway with a servo motor so it will be quicker in the end. 10. Remove the legs typically "K" legs and cross bracing from table top. I usually use a small two wheel handcart for moving the various parts to my vehicle but the sewing machine head I physically carry to my vehicle first to be wrapped and secured off the floor. I place the table top side down on moving blankets and the other bits and pieces around it. I take a complete socket set with both metric and imperial sockets, drill with various screw driver bits, couple of thumb wrenches and of course vise grips. Hope this helps, kgg

That is the China Patcher, guaranteed to provide untold enjoyable hours as a Tinkers Delight. kgg

Cute up-cycling. kgg

This maybe a firmware problem. It could be a broken wire or a wire / connector came loose during the upgrade. kgg

As I maintain they do have their place but... for the average hobbyist they are more of a tinkers machine that could get you out of a pinch. I wouldn't invest in one as an only machine or as an alternative to a good Singer 29K or even a clone of the Singer 29K. I do have both the Singer 29k and a China Patcher which is delegated to the darkest corner of the basement for probably an out the door journey after two more tinkering projects. kgg

The first thing I would advise is to change the needle system to 135 x 16 or 135 x 17. That would give you a better range of needle size selection and thread sizes. Good luck, kgg

Good advice. The problem in North America is the US is sort of using imperial measurements while in Canada we are supposedly using metric. In Canada it's hard to find metric nuts / bolts and when you can they are more expensive while it is easy to find imperial ones at the hardware stores. In Canada we buy meat and such measured in both lbs and kilograms but priced by the kilogram at the grocery store yet milk and fuel (gas/ diesel / propane) are in liters. Wood is sold in the Imperial system. The US when it comes to liquid measurements like quarts and gallons they are smaller then the British / Canadian Imperial system for quarts and gallons by about 20 percent. The US quart is 32 oz while the British / Canadian Imperial is 40. To add to the confusion horsepower for motors like for our sewing machines where the US and British systems use 745.7 watts being equal to 1 hp while in the metric system it's equal to 735.5 watts. So those servo motors they advertise as 3/4 hp are probably measured using the metric system. Me, I was raised, schooled, trained and worked most of my career using the British / Canadian Imperial system and today the system of measurement I use depends on what I am trying to do. When Canada became metric it drove a lot of us nuts to say the least and is still a chore. kgg

I figured the OP was going to replicate the drawer and to get a more accurate measurements I would provide them in mm. To convert metric into imperial just divide my measurements by 25.4. kgg

I think the problem is that your firmware isn't compatible and will need to be updated. I would check www.reddit.com and see if there is a forum for the Ender 3. I know there is one for the Ender 5. This link may help with setting the Z, (3dprintscape.com/guide-to-install-a-bltouch-on-a-creality-32-bit-mainboard/) I do have a question why did you decided to try and upgrade to a 32 bit board? kgg

This is the small plain face drawer in my 1949 Singer 29k 71 case iron base. The tracks that are attached to the base for the drawer I painted black to match the rest of the base. Dimensions of the drawer: A) The length i) front to back, outside to outside, is: 205.34mm ii) inside length is 177.33 mm iii) thickness of back is: 8.13mm iv) thickness of front is: 19.88mm The width, i) side to side, outside dimension is: 97.03mm ii) side to side, inside dimension is: 80.09mm iii) thickness of sides are: 8.47mm C) The height, i) front and sides are: 70.43mm ii) back of drawer is: 56.87mm D) The bottom i) bottom of the drawer is 177.33mm x 84.33mm x 2.23mm thick and slides into a track cut in the sides E) The track i) Track for sliding in and out of drawer are 7.92mm wide, 3.45mm deep and are down 9.2mm from the top of the sides kgg

I think the best of the three is the Juki LU-1508HN but the price is going to be much higher, probably north of $4000 US. I would place the 1508HN closer to your Class 3 capabilities which may prove to be to much machine for lighter items. To give you an example of how different classes of machines work with material Sewing Gold has a good set of videos on youtube. They show the end result with three Juki's dnu-1541s, du-1181n and ddl-8700 sewing the same light, medium and heavy fabric. I would class the 1541S as a good compound feed upholstery type machine, 1181n a walking foot machine and the 8700 as a garment machine. I wouldn't count out the Juki DNU-1541S (~$1800 US) for your sewing needs, it maybe a good fit for your needs. I still would advise you to check out a dealer with a sample of your items and then make a decision. Also another option maybe changing the needle plate and feed dog if it will work on your Class 3 like what was recently discuss here under the topic " A liitle change to make a BIG differance on Cowboy sewing machines By RockyAussie, October 30 in Leather Sewing Machines " kgg

I do have one of these. Usually it will sew and could get you out of pinch but don't fool yourself in assuming you are going to get great results. The quality of these machines are at best on the poorer end of the scale. Yes they do have their place like all machines but I would not recommend this type of machine for anyone as an only machine or a beginners machine as it may prove to be too frustrating. These are what I would consider a true tinkers machine and it was fun tricking it out but it cann't hold a candle to a my Singer 29k's. kgg

Having a sewing machine demo'd by the owner and they can't get it running right is a real red flag for me. Why is the owner wanting to sell it???? Problems not being mentioned??? To me if an owner can't get their own machine running right then the machine is worth little more then it's scrap value or at least a drastic drop in price to help cover possible repairs. The clutch motor is another red flag as to how fast the machine was operated at prior to the new servo motor being installed. Typical speed on those clutch motors is either 1725 or 3450. Any speed reduction??? The servo motor control panel indicated it was running at 1600 rpm but what was the actual rpm's the machine was run at. Any speed reduction? Most of the Singers Patchers shouldn't be run at much more then 500 rpm's but the Alder maybe different. Another option that may fit your needs if space is a real concern are the portable walking foot sewing machine's like Sailrite Ultrafeed and Reliable Barracuda, to name a couple. kgg

Chris is pretty good and glad you got it to where you feel comfortable sewing. kgg

It wouldn't be my first choice. The parts are probably going to be to be expensive should it require any. I stay away from Alder and Pfaff machines for two reasons replacement parts and accessories are much more expensive then other manufacturers in my location and the machines are difficult to sell. I also stay away from any machine with build in electronic functions as I like to keep my machines as simple and cost effective as possible. I would check the availability and cost of replacement parts for the Alder in your area. kgg

You can't go wrong with a Juki as they are what a lot of the clones copied and parts / accessories are readily available. That said all lot will depend on how the machine has been cared for. If any of those machines were used in a commercial setting they probably are being sold for a reason. The Juki DNU- 1541S will do the upholstery work but as for shoes, boots etc being sewn to soles you will need a heavier weight machine. Upholstery class machines can handle about 3/8" thick material or less depending on the material. I would check / look for leads with the local sewing machine dealers, repair shops, shoe repair shops as well as places that do tack repairs like horse riding / polo clubs and companies that do upholstery work. kgg

Nice work. kgg