kgg

Looks great. kgg

You could try Wawak. In Canada, www.wawak.ca or USA, www.wawak.com kgg

This comment you receive from Artisan is confusing to me. Trying to sew a patch on a pants leg particularly around the knee area using a cylinder bed is going to be a real chore. I think, a better choice of machine for sewing patches whether on pants or hats, which they didn't directly address, would be a patcher like a Singer 29K or a similar clone. I think your primary of requirements of hat patches and patching pants is more suited to a patcher machine where you can change the direction of the stitch simply by turning the direction of the the pressor foot. So doing a stitch around a patch is much simpler to do. You didn't mention which Sailrite machine you have. Investing in a cylinder machine may not be the overall best / correct machine for your stuff. I still would recommend visiting a dealer with samples of what you want to sew and try a patcher, a cylinder bed and a flatbed machine to see what works best for the majority of your stuff. As the investment is substantial, you and your pocket book would really hate it if you got the wrong machine for your needs. I took the information from a previous reply from Cowboy Bob in the topic called "Opinions on Cowboy CB6900" I probably misinterpreted his comment " Uwe,to confuse you more,we call it 1341 here in the US ....".

I think Cowboy renamed it in the US as the CB 341 ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb341.html ) clone of the Juki LS-341 for $2395 US. The clone model numbering system can get confusing at times. kgg I think Cowboy renamed it in the US as the CB 341 ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb341.html ) clone of the Juki LS-341 for $2395 US. The clone model numbering system can get confusing at times. kgg

The manual the OP listed indicates in it's bill of materials their are two different circuit boards, one for 120v input voltage and one for 240v input voltage. I suspect the 240v board using 120v will provide 25 percent max power and will never get to rated motor speed. It's a matter of Ohm's Law, Power in watts = Voltage X Current or Power in watts = Voltage squared divided by resistance in ohms. Example: 550 watt motor at 220v will require 2.5 amps if you half the voltage then you either got to either draw more current actually double it or loss power. Since the resistance will remain the same in the motor and circuit (220 v x 220v) / 550 watts the circuit has 88 ohms of resistance which should remain the same. Then if you half the voltage to 110 volts and the resistance remains the same (88 ohms) then the available power in watts would be (110 volts x 110 volts) divided by 88 ohms giving 137.5 watts. So in a nut shell you take a 550 watt motor and turn it into a 137.5 watt motor which is a 75 percent drop in available power. The main problem isn't whether it will run, at what speed or available torque it could provide but potentially a safety and or insurance issue. In North America electrical equipment has to be safety certified (voltage, current, etc) by either ULC or CSA. If an appliance has a fault that causes a problem like God forbid a fire or electrocution or something else and your insurance determine or claim it was the fault of incorrectly running the motor at a lower voltage or you installing the plug outside what it was rated for or recommended by the manufacturer and certified for, guess what could happen. Probably, No insurance and you could be on the hook for the situation. Believe me, I am all for saving a buck but for me the potential risks out weights any cost saving benefit when it comes to electrical items being used outside their certification limits. Maybe just me. kgg

That my friend is definitely a game changer. Excellent work. kgg

It wouldn't be my first choice as the 441 class shine above the 3/8" to 3/4" or so and their sweet spot would probably be the 1/2" + mark with V346 or larger thread. I have my machines pretty well dialed in for a certain sewing range / function. It will come down to whether the item can be done better / faster / easier on a flatbed or cylinder bed. For thin flat items I would probably try a sample first using my Juki DU-1181n, if it struggles I would move to the a Juki DNU 1541S then the Juki LS-1341 clone with or without a flatbed attachment. Thin stuff I the Juki DU -1181n excels and depending on the material can handle V138 but it is only rated for V92 and is just a walking foot. My Juki DU-1181N is my first choice for sewing 21 oz (#6) cotton canvas which measures approximately 1mm thick and has sewn 6 layers many times. The Juki DNU-1541S hates thin stuff (~4mm or so) and will tear up fabric unless dumbed down. If the item was a patch my choice would be the old Singer 29k-71 which can take a #24 needle but has a tiny bobbin. All those machines use 135 x 17 or 16 needles which is convenient. I hope that helps, kgg

The Juki LS-1341 takes a #24 technically good for V207 but the machine is rated V138 top thread and bobbin thread running at 2000 spm. I figure this is to allow you to sew V138 even in tough leather. The 246VA max needle size is #23 needle which will take V138 but in tough or thick stuff may not create a large enough hole to properly form a stitch or cause skipped stitches. The website when you click on the specs it shows 246VA but the nameplate on the machine in the photo is a 335, maybe the 246VA is being replaced by the 335. I couldn't find a max speed probably 1800 spm like the 2618-1B but would need to be checked with them. I think this machine is more geared towards edge binding like the PFAFF 335 rather then a Juki LS-1341. The 2618-1B can take a #24 needle but max speed is 1800 spm. I think a much closer machine to the Juki LS-1341. To sew constantly above the 3/8" mark you need to move into the 441 class of machines. The Juki TSC-441 is just way to expensive for most people so the clone 441 class machines are a much more reasonably priced option however they do not lend to sewing thin stuff very well unless they are dumbed down and typically use system 794 needles. Remember No one machine is going to cover all your needs/wants. kgg

Garyak posted in a topic "Cobra 29-18" that he just received his new Cobra. He maybe able to answer your questions. kgg

Since you are planning on spending between $1000 to $3500 why not visit a couple of industrial sewing machine dealers and test drive a couple of machines with a sample of your stuff. My suggestion would be for either a new or used Juki LS-1341 or used Juki LS-341. Another option that maybe worth while investigating are the used Singer 29K's and newer 29K clones. They would work for sewing hat patches on, patching pants and may do for modifying/prototyping bags. kgg

I have made some 3D printed upgrades to my 1949 Singer 29k-71 which can be used on other versions of the Singer 29K as well as other machines like the Consew 29, Cowboy CB29, Cobra 29, Techsew 2900 to name a few. The upgrade requirements: i) Simple ii) No holes to be drilled or tapped into either the sewing machine or the cobbler base. iii) Installed / removed in under 5 minutes with no special tools. 1) Photo 6 is a view from the pulley wheel side showing a Double 1 pound spool thread stand and threading rod holder mounted to the cobblers base (Photo 5). The top thread stand guides can be positioned and locked in place as needed. The height from the cobbler base to the thread guide holes is 2 and 3/8 the height of the thread spools. The threads then leaves the thread stand guides and goes to another double thread guide to keep the threads separated and keep the thread angle down. This double thread guide replaced the original 4 oz spool pin. Both threads then go to under the lever in the oil pot and exit through the two holes in the end of the oil pot. The inside thread then carries on as the top thread to the top thread tensioner and to the needle. the outside thread carries on to the darning tensioner to be utilized for the bobbin thread. All the instructions I have read or viewed for winding a bobbin either with the hand wheel on the front or the side want you to wrap the thread around the bobbin and guide the thread onto the bobbin. Which to me seemed OK but there had to be a better way that gave a more consistent winding of the thread onto the bobbin and allowed me to wind a bobbin while sewing. To accomplish this I used the Darning Tensioner was used to give consistent, adjustable tension as I don't darn and haven't really figured out what the advantage it would provide over the top Thread Tension for darning. If someone can explain this I would really like to know as I can't seemed to find any information in the 29K manuals. The next step was to make a guide that would replicate my fingers position and properly guide it onto the bobbin (Photo 4). The guide when not in use folds back against the machine. For those that use the hand wheel mounted to the main drive shaft I do have a simple design just haven't 3D printed it yet. 2) Photo 3 is a view from the front showing the top thread path to the head and the bobbin thread path to the bobbin being threaded. All comments greatly appreciated. kgg

You can't go wrong with a Juki. When you decide to sell it you will probably have an easier time and at a high price then a similar clone. kgg

You didn't mention what are you planning on sewing as there maybe other options that maybe better suited for want you want to sew. In the manual operated machines there are only three options I know of and all three can handle up to 3/4" thick: Weaver Cub (~$1800 US) rated max thread V346, Cowboy Outlaw (~$1400) rated max thread V346 and maybe V415 and the Tippmann Boss (~$1000) rated max thread V415. kgg

I would first recommend a Juki LS -1341 if you can afford the price of a new one about $3500 CAD and you don't need a 441 class machine. The Cowboy and the Cobra you noted are in the 441 class machines while the Techsew 2750 and the Juki 1341 are in the 1341 class of machines. So you need to figure out if you need / want to sew 7/8" thick or 1/2" thick stuff, what needle system is needed, the max thread size thread for the top and in bobbin for the machine you want to use in your stuff. In the 441 class machines the cost effective way is with a clone as the Juki TSC-441 is just to expensive, north of $9000. In the 1341 class machines if your budget doesn't allow for a new Juki then a used Juki LS-1341 from a dealer in the Toronto area can be had for about $1500 complete with table and servo motor. If you want a new clone that can be purchased and serviced in the Toronto area then I would recommend the KOBE LS-1341 (Japan Sewing Machine -- Chris at (905) 764-0100) which is a Juki LS-1341 clone just an awful lot more cost effective. I actually went to get a new Juki LS-1341 and wound up giving the Kobe a try about a year ago based on the cost difference with the full intent of selling it and getting a new Juki LS-1341 if it couldn't / didn't work out but so far no problems. The downside of the clones on the average is ease of resale and resale value when compared to comparable Juki's. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

The machine does appear to be in good shape. The badge may say Tokyo, Japan but I would check with a Consew dealer or call Consew to confirm as to where it is manufactured. Juki even has some machines that are now made in China. A couple of other things you need to check for that machine are: The max needle size will it take. The max thread size for the top thread. The max thread size in the bobbin, some machines can not take the same thread size in the bobbin as the top thread. What would be a similar Juki model. Is it a clone of the Juki DNU-1541S or the LU-1508 N. In the upholstery class of machines they max out at 3/8" sewing thickness depending on material and thread size. For what you have described as wanting to sew I think a Juki DNU-1541S should be quite capable of handling it. The cost of a new Juki DNU-1541S, table and servo motor is probably in the range of $1800 US. Clones are usually cheaper. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

That is a amazing slow speed but for the average joe the cost of the motor I think would be out of reach and to complicated for most hobbyists. I use the old fashion plain jane "brush" motors on all of my machines easy to repair and cost effective. I also don't have speed reducers installed on any of my machines. My attitude is two fold: I follow "KISS" so no computer /electronic stuff to screw up as I have enough user errors to contend with as it is, "me". If I have to use a speed reducer to get added torque to gain punching power I am using the wrong machine. The Sairite Workhorse servo manual may help ( www.manualslib.com/manual/1644613/Sailrite-Fabricator.html ) as it is a copy of the Reliable servo motor. kgg

Smart decision. kgg

Smart decision. kgg

Good point. kgg

I do like the pedestal style bases so much more space. On my Kobe LS-1341 (clone of Juki 341) the center of the base of the machine hangs over the table top by very small amount. I think a good style of base for a cylinder machine would be like those old case iron cobbler bases that were used for the Singer 29K. When I can find another case iron cobbler base I am going revamp/modify it so I can mount the LS-1341 and servo on it. kgg

I agree try and get the bobbin case and thread or anything else that may be there from the previous owners use out. If you can slowly hand-wheel the needle up and down chances are the safety clutch (hook drive) has disengaged and needs to be reset from the under side of the machine once you get the bobbin and tangled thread out. There is a pin that needs to be pushed back in and you need to turn the hand wheel in the reverse direction until you hear it snap back in place. The procedure is on page 18 of the PFAFF 245 / 1245 Instruction Manual for the old German casing. kgg

Great video showing the difference in table function but most importantly table construction / strength. Also the bag is damn nice. kgg

Thank you. This machine is on a out-the-door journey as I really don't need a second Singer 29K-71. kgg

I have the 550 watt brushed motors with a the speed limiter dial and pot on a two Juki flatbeds (DNU -1541S, Juki DU-1181N) and also a cylinder bed KOBE clone of the Juki LS-1341. None off my machines have a speed reducer pulley installed. The brand / label on these motors are KOBE which is similar to all the other brush servo motor brands. I think they probably are using the same design or coming from the same manufacturer and then branded / labeled XXXX. I do have another new spare 550 watt servo branded / labeled Rex and you can't tell them apart. If you are planning on the Sailrite or Reliable with the standard domestic motor on them I would suggest installing the larger pulley wheel which Sailrite calls the Monster wheel. Sailrite does have a replacement motor called the Worker B which is just a straight swap out that should give you much better torque and speed control but a bit pricey. kgg

I have a couple of Singer 29k-71's one a 1949 with the case iron cobber base and the another from Landis a 1998 version that has a 52 to 1 helper geared motor. I did a short video using the 1998 Singer 29k-71 and plan on doing another of the 1949. Hopefully, someone may find it helpful if they are planning on purchasing a used machine or even a new clone of the Singer 29K. It is very easy to say a machine should sound / operate this way or that but I hope the video will provide a good base line. These machines were flushed and oiled using my redneck oil. The link to the video is https://odysee.com/@SingerSewing:0/singer:a Comments always welcomed. kgg