kgg

Thank you. Thank you, I didn't realize until I had the first one cut and hammered down that I realized it was a bit long so I thought I might be able to just cut it off and re-install. So I did a test removal of a rivet installed the same way on a double layer of glued 5 oz and it was a royal pain to get the rivet shaft ground down so it could be removed from the burr. I was surprised as how tight the shaft is in the burr. I figured if I tried to remove the first rivet I stood a better then average chance of ruining the leather. So I decided to continue on the same with the others. The next one will hopefully be a bit cleaner looking. I looked at some double caps which would look really nice as they do have a nicer lower, smoother profile. I decided against using them as I didn't think they would stand up as well since the metal connecting shafts seem very thin. All Great comments. kgg

Picture of inside flap money clip rivet head slightly counter sunk.

In Canada and I'm going to assume the US we can order directly from A&E. kgg

The "804 RNR" refers to serviceman 804 of the Royal Newfoundland Regiment, one of the 68 men too survive, out of 800, going over the top on July 1, 1916 at Battle of the Somme. I am planning on making a "804 RNR" stamp for future use. What I did was a drill a hole in the long flat side of the money clip that is on the outside of the flap to accommodate a copper rivet. I then cut to shape a small piece of leather to wrap around the D-ring, wet molded it around the D-ring, dyed, glued and punched a 3/32" hole in the piece. The money clip was then slipped over the top of the flap and a 3/32" hole punched in the wallet flap that lined up with the hole in the money clip. I put a small wipe of Vaseline around the 3/32" hole on the inside of the flap, then I used a heat gun to melt the Vaseline into the area around the hole so when it was set the edge of the head would be counter sunk just a touch. I then stuffed the copper rivet through from the underside of the leather through the money clip and the D-ring leather. Then I cutoff the access rivet shaft, installed the copper washer, and hammered round the remaining shaft of the rivet with the rivet setter. What I did was sand the edges and to give a little bevel using fine sandpaper as I didn't have a proper small edger to give a nice edge. Edger and burnisher on the way. Once the wallet was constructed I used good old fashion Vaseline to put some flexibility into the leather by smearing inside, outside and all the edges of the wallet and then heating it with a heat gun. It was amazing to watch the leather suck up the Vaseline like a sponge. It didn't leave the wallet feeling greasy or oily, just flexible enough. Thank you for the questions and compliment. kgg

I am hard on my wallets and my store bought finally had seen better days. I stuff everything including the kitchen sink in there. So I figured I'd step out of my comfort zone and give a try at making one. I called it my 804 RNR. To add too the challenge: i) It had to be able to hold six credit card size cards. ii) Hold real money. iii) As thin as possible to fit comfortably in my front pants pocket without bulging. iv) Be able to attach my keys to it. I never go anywhere without my keys and wallet. They are sort of a package deal. iv) Look distressed like the bank account. v) Have No stitching. What I came up with seems to fit those requirements and is over 3/4" thinner in the pocket. The wallet consists of one piece of 4-5 oz veg tan, 1 money flat money clip, 5 good old fashion copper rivets, a little leather glue, dab of dye and some Vaseline. Photo 1: Thickness of old store bought wallet (34.31mm). Photo 2: New No Sew prototype wallet (12.92mm) Photo 3: D-ring (1 1/2") for clipping keys onto wallet. D-ring and money clip attached to wallet flap by a copper rivet. Photo 4: Wallet interior with money and cards. Any and all comments are always welcome. Thanks for looking. kgg

I like American & Efird ( http://www.amefird.com/ ) made in both Canada and the US. Lots of choices for all types of sewing. They seem to have done the engineering on their thread. The drawback for some users is that the last I heard before the China Cough shutdowns was that they had stopped producing the 8 ounce spools. kgg

If they had installed the connection right in the first place you may never have had a problem. That connection was just a blockage waiting to happen. It was obviously installed without an inspection. kgg

I only suggestion I can offer is too try and layout your shop so the work flow of your projects follows your process with the necessary tools close at hand. I think right handed dominate people like the flow to be clockwise while left handed dominate like it to flow counter clockwise. Cutting table on left wall, tooling bench back wall, sewing machine / stitching area on right wall vs cutting table on right, wall tooling bench back wall, sewing machine / stitching area on left wall. kgg

Yes you are reading the chart correctly but I think most of the charts are meant for sewing in fabric rather then leather or sticky material. You may find the chart by Toledo Sewing Machines (www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) a better choice. kgg

My understanding is the 130/21 needle is used for the top end of V92 thread while a #22 needle is the bottom end of V138 thread. I would suggest you try V92 thread with the #21 and see what happens or move up to a #22 needle. Also I am assuming you using a older PFAFF 1245 and using the correct needle for your sub class which would be either 134 -35 needle system or a 190 needle system in a leather point not a fabric point needle. As a note the older PFAFF can only accept a 140 / #22 needle with a max thread of 15/3 which is about T120 depending on thread type (cotton vs bonded polyester vs bonded nylon) and thread manufacturer this I think may cause problems with V138 particularly when used in both the bobbin and as a top thread. You maybe able to use V138 as a top thread but be limited to V92 in the bobbin depending on the material being sewn. Having the top thread lay flat on top of you material indicates the upper tension is too tight or the lower tension is too loose. You did say the bobbin is loose and wobbly. Have you done adjusted the bobbin tension by doing the drop test. Note the tension screw only needs to be turned in ever so slight increments like an 1/8 of a turn. kgg

Additional pages:

I have attached a pdf and rather then me retyping the difference are listed under "Description". Essentially the higher the number the capable the machine. kgg

To me it looks like a Singer 111W 152 or 153 or 154 or 155. kgg

This could be also be related to the size of needle, size of thread, thickness of leather. What size needle, thread and thickness of leather are you using? kgg

Had a few minutes tonight so I threw together this version of my awl. I extended the index finger support and shorten the overall length by about 11/ 16" (17.5 mm). The second version is definitely more pen like. Photo: 1) Side by side view of both awl's. 2) Left hand has the first version awl and the right hand has the shorten version awl. No excuse now, I have one for each hand. kgg

Thank you. The trick was to making the back section flexible enough to bend slightly too allow the awl into the sheath. Thank you, I never thought of that use. I might have a chance later to night to make one with a shorter needle, more pen like.

I have always had a problems with round handled tools in general wondering away and the awl was no different. So I built my own scratch awl and dolled it up with some 3d printed features to act more like a pen with a comfort indent for my index finger and end cover for the wooden handle. That seemed to take care of the awl but not the wondering when laid down. So I 3d printed a flat bottom sheath with the inside shaped to fit the contours of the awl and a handle stop so it does fall out. Also it protects the needle and me from getting poked. The next problem was to make the whole package do more. As I do a fair bit of inside out sewing that then requires it be turn right side out, much like you would do for a pillow case, getting the corner bunching out has been a problem. So the nose had to be nice and round but blunt so it wouldn't punch through. Also when I use double side tape to hold items together I have used various item to press the pieces together so I needed a little contour at the bottom side of the nose to held flatten pieces together. I used cheap and I mean cheap PLA for this prototype and didn't dial in the printer to handle this PLA which is less forgiving on the heat and horizontal expansion compensation settings. This is what I came up with. Any comments or improvement suggestions are always appreciated. PHOTO: 1) awl with index finger comfort indent 2) sheath round nose with bottom contour for flattening 3) awl and sheath with hangup string 4) how the awl fits my hand much like a pen would 5) awl in sheath with a index finger comfort indent 6) how awl and sheath fits my hand much like a pen would for flattening kgg

How far away are they, it maybe worth a trip and do you have a dealer repair shop within the same distance range that may have a similar machine? kgg

Does it have a servo motor if not add at least $150 to the price you are paying. Without photo's that shows the overall condition and detailed ones of the thread path and bed, getting an answer is going to be difficult. If the machine is in mint condition no missing parts, no thread worn gouges in the thread path tensioner's, no path worn off the bed, servo motor and most importantly sews properly then I would. kgg

I do own a Juki 1541S and they are a good machine. They are rated for V138 top and in the bobbin but probably could take V207 at least as a top thread. However my machine hates thin stuff. I think it would easily handle the 12 oz which is about 1/4" thick but it will depend on how tough the leather is. Any pictures?? The price is a hard one to determine, depends on condition, clutch or servo motor and prices in your area. A new one would be about $1800 US while a clone contender would be a new Consew 206RB-5. kgg

The pictures do look good but buying equipment off Ebay particularly in that price range for me would be just too risky. Since there is a Juki repair shop close to you I would first check and see if they have a refurnished machine like the Juki LS 1341 or an older LS 341. That way you eliminate potential shipping damage problems, spams, worn out, problems, etc. They may also have similar class new or used clones available. Also you would be able to test drive one with what you want to sew before buying. kgg

I would put the Juki DSC 245 in the 335 class machine capable of handling V92 thread with a 135x17 #20 needle, the Juki LS 1341 would do 10mm but I think would be at or near max and can handle V138 with a 135x17 #24 needle while the 441 would easily handle 10 mm can handle V92 to V415 with a 794 needle, this is what the clones have copied for the thick stuff. just my take, kgg

My suggestions would be: 1) If the machine came with 135 x17 did you make the necessary adjustments to allow you to change back too the original 134 needles. If not I would use what the machine came with or make the necessary adjustments. 2) Using a #20 needle in my opinion is too small for V138 thread and the loop that the hook catches may not be formed properly so you get skipped stitches. 3) Use either V138 thread or V92 thread for both top and bobbin thread until you figure out where the problem is then venture into mixing thread sizes. I would suggest starting with V92 top and in the bobbin. 4) For tarp type sewing getting the knot to be pulled up you will need multiple layers, I would probably try folding the tarp up until you get a 1/4" of material and see what happens. A quick test would be try a say three or four layers of denim material and see what it does, I know my Juki 1541 S hates thin stuff so I use another machine to cover off thin stuff. 5) The rat nest on the bottom indicates to me too low a top tension which maybe caused by top the routing. If I see correctly, you have the top thread going straight through the bottom hole of the top thread pin. I suggest you try going into the top hole half wrap around the the pin and out the third hole. The more holes used will also increase the top thread tension. 6) The amount of bobbin thread tension and the direction the bobbin spins off thread should be rechecked. 7) A couple of closeups of how you have threaded through the top thread tensions may also help. 8) I would suggest taking a look at the video Just some things to try, kgg

I have this style of roller presser feet which are new old stock. I bought all the new folders, binders etc from a company that had closed their doors and I'm still cataloging. What these fit I am not sure just yet. I have about 40 of these. Photo's: i) roll1 has a small wheel and has a square mount rather then a round mount. ii) roll2 has a large wheel and has a square mount rather then a round mount. iii) roll3 is the two side by side iv) roll4 shows the spring lock that locks the wheel down when the unit is mounted in place.

I have a batch of new complete roller feet in two different wheel sizes. I will get some pictures latter today and see if they would work for you. kgg