kgg

I would personally pass on both the used Juki and the new Seiko STH 8bld-3. The Juki was used in a commercial environment and is an old machine probably beat to death. Who knows how many times it was previously rebuild and by who. If it was used by a hobbyist and showed little signs of use (paint not worn off the bed, deep thread tracks in thread guides, etc) I may consider it if it was priced in the $600 to $800 CA price range. The Seiko STH 8bld-3 will max out on a #22 needle which is the bottom end of V138 (fabric use) and the one needle size up needed to sew V92 in thick /tough materials. I got that information from the Seiko website ( http://www.seiko-sewing.co.jp/en/products/sth-8bld-3/ ). If you want to use V207 top and V138 bobbin you need to look at machines in the Juki 1541 class. kgg

Why not just purchase the standard flatbed binding attachments that are readily available and inexpensive (around $15.00 or less). Also they will help in reducing the drag which I figure is also contributing your binding material being stretched. Any time something makes a 90 degree bend you increase the pull/stress required. On a sewing machine this puts additional stresses on the pressor foot/ needle feed / feed dog mechanisms. Also adding a horizontal binding spool arrangement with bearings, as Wiz suggested, will drastically reduce those stresses and provide a more even dispensing of the binding material off the spool. All my machines (flatbed or cylinder) use the horizontal bearing spool arrangement. The only difference is I use the standard el cheapo binding attachments made for the flatbeds on my cylinder machine. That way I don't have to have one style of attachments dedicated for the flatbeds and one style dedicated for the cylinder machines. Something to consider, kgg

Are you trying to attach this to a flatbed or cylinder bed machine? kgg

My do the job, with a few mods. kgg

My favourite tool would be my 3D printers. If I need something to make things more convenient or easier I design it and print it: Some of my design are: i) Always hated having to hold on the end of the bobbin thread to get started, particularly the front mounted Juki 1541S. I hated having to babysit the end of the thread or it would flop all over the place and then having to cut the extra thread flush with the bobbin. I so designed on for the front side mounted and the pulley driven winder. ii) Needed my scissors and or snips, loaded bobbins, needles, and screwdriver where I needed them, at the front of the machine. iii) Needed a better 3 spool rank for my top thread that prevents thread from uncoiling under the spools particularly when I occasionally use cheap no name thread. iv) Wanted to be able to use my inexpensive binders made for flatbeds on my cylinder bed so I wouldn't have to change the feed dog and housing every time I needed to bind the edge of something. v) Wanted a close to zero pull platter for all my machines for that would self centre spools of up to 13 inches in diameter and 2" wide binding as well as spools of cording. vi) Wanted a better way of doing small runs (up to 40') of binding and that I could use the existing bobbin thread winder to wind it on a large bobbin which is mounted on the front of the machine table for my flatbeds. vii) Needed a small flat attachment for the cylinder bed machine that slips over the nose of the cylinder and attaches with three bolts. kgg

Googledave, buying anything used can be risky at the best of times. Before you buy you need to know what is the max thread you want to use, what you want to sew (wallets or saddles) as well as the max thickness you want / need to sew. The class 341 machines, brand name or clone, maybe either undersized or oversized for 90 percent of your needs / wants. It also comes down to other factors like the price of the used Juki machine. If the used Juki machine is in good clean running condition, does what you need / want it to sew and priced at about 40 percent of the cost of the a new Juki, I would buy the Juki. That said, I recently purchased a new cylinder arm machine to replace an old Consew. I actually went with the intention of buying a new Juki LS-1341 but the price was a little hard to justify. I ended up buying a new clone, Kobe LS-1341(really a 341clone). Much better machine then the Consew for my needs and the cost was less then half that of the new Juki LS-1341. So I said I'll give it try and see how I liked it for six months. If I don't like it, I'll sell the thing and get the Juki. The jury is still out but so far it is holding up pretty good, no issues whatsoever. With used sewing machines regardless of manufacturer you really need to look at some things like. i) Inspect the machine yourself to see if there is obvious sign of heavy use like thread tracks in the thread guides, tension guides, and areas rubbed smooth. ii) How the machine runs at slow and full rated speed. Does it sound like a bucket of bolts banging around? iii) Was it used by a hobbyist or in a commercial environment and beat to death? iv) Was it bought at auction and being sold as a flipper or for sale off a site like e bay? v) If it was rebuilt, who did the rebuild and do you trust their work? What was done to the machine? vi) Does it sew a nice stitch at it's max rated thread. I am sure there are other things to check but those are just starting points. kgg

Something to check with Artisan. The information in the "Instruction Manual and Parts Catalogue" says the machine can handle needles from size 18 to 23. That means it can handle threads from V69 to V138. You may be able to get V207 on the top but would be more then likely limited to V138 in the bobbin. Sometimes you may have to go up a needle size for a given thread size depending on what you are sewing. From the information I see if you are sewing though tough thick leather you may be limited not to V138 but V92 as a #24 needle may not fit and to get the necessary thread space you would have to go down to V92. Example: Juki 1541 rated for V138 top and bobbin but it is rated to take a #24 needle which could take V207 in light materials but still limit the bobbin to V138. For tough thick leather the #24 needle would give V138 thread the extra thread space needed. kgg

The first question I would ask is what size of thread you are planning on using and how thick the thickness part of the bag you are planning on sewing. The Pfaff 335 I think will max out with V69 thread with a 134 needle while the Seiko tops out at V138 thread with a 135 needle. Replacement parts should also be a consideration. Here the Pfaff parts / accessories are expensive. If I'm not mistaken Sieko makes or use to make Consew machines so parts / accessories should be less, something to check. I use the same binder attachments made for my flatbeds (Juki 1541S, Juki 1181N, Pfaff 1245 ) on my cylinder arm (Kobe LS-1341 which is a Juki 341 clone). The binding results are the same and none of my machines are synchronized. The main difference is the cost of the binder attachments. Flatbed attachments are inexpensive ($20 CA or less) each versus $180 CA each for the cylinder machine. I like being able to buy one attachment and use it on all my machines regardless whether it is a flatbed or a cylinder. A lot of cylinder require you make changes to the needle plate, feed dog or cylinder cover plate to use a binder attachment. kgg

Try this link: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/consew-206rb.html kgg

In your photo showing the bobbin. A couple of things I would check: When the needle picks up the thread through the bobbin cover. Can you pull the bobbin thread from the bobbin easily? Looking at the photo it appears the top thread has been stressed to the breaking point. I suspect the bobbin isn't threaded correctly. Thin thread (V69) should be threaded so it exits through the hole closest to the hook. Make sure the bobbin thread path through the hook assembly is correct. Goes through the bottom hole closest to the hook, under the tension spring and out the top hole closest to the hook. The thread has to enter one hole and exit the corresponding top hole. kgg

My rule of thumb for a clean used clone machine is between 40 - 50 percent of the list price of the same new clone machine. Doing a quick check it appears the cost from a dealer for a new Consew 206RB5 would run about $1450 + applicable taxes + shipping with table and servo motor. I would consider paying up to $700 if it was privately owned and not used in a commercial setting. Before you buy have you asked yourself: what you are want / need to sew, would a flatbed machine be the best option or would a cylinder bed be better suited to your needs, max thickness you want /need to punch through, size of thread you want / need for the top and bobbin thread (some machines can take V207 top but are limited to V138 in the bobbin) kgg

Both the Juki 1341 and Techsew 2750 probably will not be suitable as their max sewing limit is below what you want to sew. You need to go into the 441 class machines. Another consideration is going to be what thread size you want / need to use. Class 341 class machines top thread is V207 with a bobbin thread of V138. kgg

The Juki DNU-1541 is rated V138 top and bobbin and metric sized 180 needle or a #24 US needle. Depending what you are sewing it could take V207 top but you may find you would have to use V138 in the bobbin. I run V138 top and bobbin with no problems in both my Juki DNU-1541S and Juki DU-1181N. kgg

I don't think you are going to find any used machines in the under $500 range capable of doing what you want. kgg

Maybe glue a piece of rubber or something to the bottom of the pressor foot add to add a little grip??? kgg

It is basically a straight drop in. All you have to do is adjust the needle bar up a small amount by loosening the screw at the top of the needle bar. Move the needle bar clamp up by the same amount as the difference in length the new 135x 16 are longer. If I remember it is just under 1/4" that you move the bar up. Note also the original needles have a flat side at the top of the needle where as the 135x16 have a completely round shank. So when you put it in make sure you line it up properly. I think you need more tension on your top thread to haul the bobbin thread further into the leather. Yes Adjust the downward pressure on your pressor foot. It is adjusted by loosening the nut on the funny bolt with the two springs attached that is closest to the head (seated in the frame). The other normal looking bolt is for adjusting the stitch length. If your pressor foot is leaving marks loosen the nut, if it is not moving the leather along tighten the nut in to haul the springs down. kgg

The ones that come with the machine I think are HAx1 needles which can be purchased up to size 22. Size 22 needles are good for V138 max. This will depend on how thick and tough the leather is. If you change the needle to a standard industrial 135x16 you will get better needles and a better selection of sizes. Does that mean the long groove is on the left. Which would be correct. When you have the bobbin threaded properly in the hook assembly. 1. As you pull on the thread with the bobbin facing you it should rotate the bobbin counter clockwise. 2. Hold the end of the thread coming out of the assembly with one hand and with the whole threaded assembly rested in the pam of the other hand. Try and lift the assembly off your pam. If thread just pulls out freely and the assembly doesn't lift off your hand tighten the tension spring screw in by 1/8 of a turn. Try again until you can lift the assembly off your hand and suspend it. The thread should unwind from the bobbin slightly if you give it a gentle, gentle upward jerk. What you are going to find is these little machines can do a nice stitch but you are going to spend a lot of time tinkering with it to get to that stage. Once you figure what size of thread / needle size is best for your needs and setup, leave it. I think they are fun little machines and a great way to get started on a budget in the one arm bandit machines. Funny thing through is I still have mine but sold the Consew 223 cylinder (not heavy enough, small bobbin) and Pfaff 1245 (too finicky) is for sale. Best of luck, kgg

A couple additional ideas. Do you have the long groove on the side the thread enters the needle? How full is your bobbin? I like to keep all my bobbins in the 80 percent range. I would step back and do a process of elimination. Check thread path, correct needle size (V207 size 23 /24 needle), needle installed all the way, positioned correctly and do the bobbin drop test to see if tension is correct for the thread size (to little and bobbin falls to floor , to tight the bobbin will not allow thread to come off bobbin). Try using some V69 thread on the top and bobbin just to see if it would pickup and lock the stitches properly. Then re-thread the top with V207 and see that works. If that works the problem is in the bobbin. There may not be enough head space in the bobbin area to clear V207 properly, incorrect tension in the bobbin tension spring, bobbin hook assembly incorrectly thread. Large threads need to be threaded through the holes farthest away from the hook and under the spring also the bobbin when you pull on the thread rotates counter clock wise. Personally I don't know how you got V207 thread through the eye of needle if it was the one that came with the machine. I would suggest about thinking of changing the size of the needle to a standard 135x16 needle, which is a simple process and needles are easy to find. kgg

I looked at your video. I have a couple of comments. When you bring down the needle to pick up the bobbin thread you should have held the end of the top thread and pulled the bobbin thread up through the hole once the needle had cleared the bobbin cover before attempting to bring the needle back down again. Also what size of thread are you using? Is the thread matched to the correct needle size? kgg

Maybe applying a bit of heat using a soldering iron or hair dryer may help to loosen the screws. Also maybe try a poor mans ratchet, vise grips on a screwdriver as close as possible to the screw head. While pushing straight down on the screwdriver with one hand and turn the vise grips with the other. Just a thought. kgg

I would first check https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1155862/Juki-Du-1181.html?page=6#manual of the Juki Du1181n Engineers manual. kgg

I do have a Juki DNU-1541S and am not quite sure what you are calling a "spring feed". A few photos of your spring feed and complete thread path would be very helpful in getting the problem sorted out. Also what size of thread and needle are you using. kgg

It is a drop feed machine used for high speed sewing of fabric. In my opinion it wouldn't be suitable for sewing anything expect light weight fabric. kgg

Thanks Constabulary, It is a nice trick to stop the fraying of the binding material and give that clean finish. If you want folded ends at both the beginning and ending of your binding run, where you have both ends of the binding run butted together rather then overlapped, you would fold the starting end of the binding in as well. kgg

Exposed raw edges like that of the top edge on a tote should be either folded over and sewn or edged with binding / edging material to prevent fraying. All lot has to do with your design things like is the inside of the tote being lined or not lined. To do binding you have a choice of either using raw edge or double fold binders. Binders come in a lot of sizes based on what size of binding material you are planning on using, which can be either be purchased as raw edge or double folded in small lengths or larger flat coils. Small lengths can be fairly easily man handled but if you are planning on doing any amount you will need something to control the amount being spooled off and to support the coil. I would check with Cobra and see what they recommend as the changes needed to the throat to accommodate binding attachments. If I am doing small / large runs of binding I have my own attachments that allow me to use inexpensive flatbed folders/ binders on my cylinder machine which is a class 341 clone. That way I don't have to make mechanical changes to the machine to do binding and I am able to use the folders/ binders on all my machines.