kgg

The thread you are using are a great brands so the thread shouldn't be the problem. As a note in Canada and I am going to assume in the US A&E stopped selling and producing the 8 oz spools about 3 years or so ago. When this happens how much thread is left on the bobbin? You should start out with a 80% full bobbin and work down. Winding to bobbin to only 50% or less may cause inconsistent thread tension within the bobbin and allowing the thread to basically unravel within the bobbin. Any chance of a photo of the bobbin filled with the amount of thread you normally wind unto it. A & E on their 1 lb spools date their thread (upper right corner) on the label affixed to the underside of the spool not sure about the 8oz size. kgg

The 8 oz size thread spools can be a challenge at the best of times. There are many factors at play with thread both in spool and bobbin. Some of the issues are: 1) Poor thread consistency along the length of thread on the spool. Cheap Chinese thread. 2) Spring back more noticeable on the smaller spools where the thread comes off the top of the thread spool looking like a coil spring which can create thread spring back and unraveling of a portion of the spool. Cheap Chinese thread, old thread that has developed a memory and darker colors like black being the worst. 3) Bobbin thread will very quickly develop a coil memory and as the bobbin gets closer to the end of the thread on the bobbin it looks and acts like a coil spring. Cheap Chinese thread, old thread that has developed a memory, darker colors like black being the worst and being left to long a time on the bobbin. Bobbins should be filled to about 80 percent capacity and filled relatively close to the time you need to use them. 4) Bobbins of poor quality both in dimensional and weight quality. Some can be so bad as not fitting properly on the winder causing the bobbin to be filled inconsistently and actually wobble when placed in the bobbin holder. Cheap Chinese. kgg

I would first decide on what size of thread you need / plan on using. The 335 class machines usually are rated at V69 (Tkt 40) thread which is basically the top end thread size for domestic weight thread. I would advise a class 341 or 1341 class machine as they would give a broader thread range of up to V138 (Tkt 20) for top and in the bobbin. However others can advise on what type of machine like a post bed maybe best suited for your needs in making leather slippers. kgg

The Thor Machine is similar to the Juki 1541 S but has Two extra thread tensioners (the top one with the + and - sign on it and the one located at the 9 o'clock position) which shouldn't matter, just a little more balancing needed. The tensioner system is like the the Juki 1508. I would remove the sponge in the vertical thread guide and move it up further with a very slightly tilt about the 12:30 o'clock position just to give a little extra angle on the thread going into the take-up lever. Some Juki's and clones in the 341 class have a felt pad that is inserted in the horizontal guide just below the take-up lever which I suspect the tech wanted you to insert the sponge into not the vertical guide as shown in your photo. The Juki 1541 S and 1508, according to the Juki manual, has the thread leave that horizontal guide and go through the next guide on the "Right" side of the screw. This noted in the sufficiently noted in both Juki manuals for the threading diagram. I suspect that you need to thread your machine like a Juki 1508 not the 1541. I see you are using a spool thread sock on the 8 oz threads. I would try not using them as they can give inconsistent thread tension and may not be perfect and catch / snag thread. Also I would try and lower the top arm and spool holder down so the thread doesn't have such a steep angle entering the first horizontal guide. I find the best angle is when the thread enters the first horizontal guide almost horizontally. kgg

Any chance of a photo's showing the tread path from the spool to the eye of the needle. Also the distance from the bottom of the spool to the thread hole just above the spool of thread should be approximately 2.5 times the height of spool of thread. Are you using a 1 lb spool of thread or 8 oz? Is the thread a brand name or a Chinese brand thread? kgg

I have two of the machines you mentioned, the 1181N and the 1541S. The 1181n is a walking foot machine and is quite happy doing items up to about 4mm or so thick while the 1541S is much happier at above 3mm and is a compound feed machine. The 1181N is rated at V138 which mine handles 138 top and in the bobbin quite nicely ( as per Juki website). The 1508NH is rated at V207 and even more heavier duty and with a larger throat then the 1541 S and there is even one that is heavier again the LU-2800 series. The 1181n covers off what the 1541 S doesn't in thin material. The 1541 S can sew thin stuff but you have too really dumb it down to do a nice job otherwise it has a tendency to tear it up. The needles for the 1181n (max size 23 ) are the same series as the 1541 S ( max size 24) and the 1508 ( max size 25) being 135 x 17 for material and 135 x 16 for leather also the bobbins are the same for the 1181N, 1541 S and the 1508. I would suggest visiting a Juki dealer with your stuff, the size of thread you are going to use and test the various machines to see which will suit your needs best. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

First I have to say I love my 3d printers and put a lot of hours / filament through them. They can do some amazing stuff and are great for inexpensive prototyping / small scale runs. Yes you can purchase Chinese 3d printers for under $400 but i) not everyone can quickly learn or has the want to learn a CAD/ Slicer program irregardless of the 3d printer cost ii) the life expectancy of the inexpensive 3d printers before having a rebuild or replacement is very low when compared to the more expensive reliable 3d printers ( plus $1500) and iii) sometimes it is just simpler and faster to use basic materials and tools for simple items. For me it would be quicker to take a common material like wood or HDPE and some basic carpentry tools to make a flat template as compared to 3d printing the same template. kgg

The best material I can suggest that you could use basic cutting tools like a saw/ drill /sander would be HDPE (High Density Poly Ethylene) in at least 1/4 ", it cuts just like wood and you can sand the edges like wood. Any smaller then 1/4" thick and you will get warping. It is available in sizes up to 4 ft x 8 ft in various thickness.

Maybe try Aaron Martin Harness Ltd. ( aaronmartin.com ) located at 4445 Posey Line RR#1, Wallenstein, ON N0B 2S0, Canada. I have bought some rivets from them and the price was reasonable with quick shipping. kgg

There isn't really enough detail in your photo's to determine if the left and right sides of the zipper are correctly installed. The following video may help you to determine this. The video outlines in good detail a metal zipper, the teeth, the direction of the teeth and how the two sides should mesh together with the slider. Hope this helps, kgg

This is for general info mainly for Canadians like myself looking to buy 135x16 or 17 needles. Finding needles at a good price in Ontario and probably the rest of Canada can be a chore either in pricing, duties or shipping time. I had to buy some needles this week as I was down to a couple of size #23 needles. Another member I was emailing with suggested a company called Wawak (wawak.com) which I never had heard of. They carry four brands of needles but I only use the Schmetz brand of needles in my machines and I usually get a pretty good price from a Canadian supplier. To get 100 Schmetz needles of 135x 17 in size 22 and 23 it would have been approximately $140 CAD with shipping and taxes. When I phone, toll free, Wawak I could get 100 Schmetz needles of 135x 17 in size 22 and 24 as well as 200 needles in size 23 needles for approximately $128 CAD with taxes and shipping was free. Works out to $0.32 CAD per needle vs $0.70 CAD. I placed the order with Wawk on Monday afternoon and received the order by UPS today before noon. I am impressed with their shipping as the package came directly from Conklin, NY USA. So I figured I would pass on the info for future reference. kgg

My machine which was sold and paid for 6 months ago, just waiting for the new owner to pick it up: i) like yours doesn't have reverse, ii) has a small bobbin, iii) had difficult time handling multiple layers iv) has a clutch motor, v) very lightly built, head weights less then my small flatbed Juki DU-1181N. kgg

Nice set of tools. kgg

I have one identical to yours delegated to the basement awaiting it's new owner to come and pick it up (6 months). I should charge a storage fee. The manual in pdf format on the Superior sewing machine site is for the 223 that you have and is a very clear copy of the manual which you may find it helpful. ( https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=consew+223+operating+manual ). I would flood the machine with oil ensuring every part is well oiled and to help flush any old gunk out but have old cloths to catch the oily mess and then roll it over slowly by hand before doing it under power. kgg

The asking price for the Singer 29k's in general have increased in Ontario over the last year. Looking at the photo's, to me it looks like it was rode hard and put away wet. I won't spend anywhere close to the asking price and would consider it a project machine. The true test will be to see if it will stitch and knowing that if it needs repairs those parts maybe hard to come by, expense or for certain parts just unavailable. Overall I would have a tenancy to pass on the machine unless you get really cheap and continue to search for a newer model like a Singer 29k-70's machine that parts are more readily available for. If you need a 29k style patcher and don't want to spend the $2500 plus for a new clone from a dealer I would have a tendency to look at places down your way like ASC365.com knowing you will probably get no support for around $1100 (asc365.com/newproductdetail.asp?productid=188073&typeid=1847 ). As a note I don't know anything about Asc365 or any of their equipment they sell. Best of luck, kgg

NO. From Sunny Sewing Machine website ( sunnysewingmachine.com/index.php/view-all-machines/18-walking-foot-sewing-machines/798-typical-gc0605a-single-needle-walking-foot-w-safety-clutch-sewing-machine ) they consider it to be " Similar to Juki DNU-1541S " in other words it is Juki clone and is well below a 441 Class machine. I would consider the Juki DNU-1541S a excellent entry level upholstery class machine. A similar setup with table and servo motor would cost about $1800 US for a Juki DNU-1541S but I didn't notice a price for the clone. kgg

I think bigsig may have meant to type TYPICAL GC-0605A???? kgg

The thread size 30 / 3 is shorthand for 30 / 1x3 which is the same size as V92, Tex 90, Tkt 30 thread. It is constructed with 3 plies twisted together. kgg

I would definitely be interested in learning what the source of the problem is. kgg

My two cents worth: 1. The needle Organ RTW 21 is too small for V138, I suggest you use a #23 or #24 needle. 2. The link ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIKml4yGLSc ) is not for the Kobe 1341 but it has a similar top thread tensioner system. It is one of the better ones as far as detail goes and if you follow the way it is done you shouldn't have any other top tension problems. The video shows the top thread going over the small post located on the right side of the discs of the top thread tensioner unit. That point of having your top thread go over the post before going to the take-up spring disc has been a topic of much contention. I happen to fall into the category of believing it should go over the post. My reasoning is i) if the thread will not go over the post and sit properly behind the post the thread size is to large for that machine. ii) provides more surface contact area of the top thread between the two tensioner discs. I have done it both ways on my machines with one being a Kobe LS-1341and find I get more consistent tension but that just maybe me and the sizes/type of thread I use. 3. Once you get the thread path and tension settled out you should never have to manually thread the top thread of your machine again when changing size or spools of thread. i) Cut the old thread just above the top of the old spool and tie the new thread to the old thread that is still threaded properly through to the needle, ii) Lift and lock the pressor foot in the up position iii) Pull the old thread out of the eye of the needle and pull on the old top thread which will pull the new thread through. iv) Cut the top thread above the knot of old and new thread v) Thread the new thread through the needle. Best of Luck, kgg

Looking at how the needle box has " X " printed the letter stamped in the needle looks like the same old style typeface set so it may very well be "X Y " or "X V" not "K Y" . kgg

If the machine is going to used for industrial rather then hobby needs why not seriously look at a true Juki 441, yes the cost is going to be much higher but.. kgg

The Chinese patcher's can be converted to a more standard 135x16 needle series fairly easily by adjusting the needle bar up about 4mm and opening up the bobbin cover plate hole slightly to allow for the larger needle diameter. The bobbin size is it's main downfall from a sewing prospective. The bobbin is really small which means less available bobbin thread thus shorter seam lengths before having to do bobbin changes. kgg

Even through you may have sorted the problem out I figure you may want to look at a video of how to thread your machine. The link ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIKml4yGLSc ) is not for your machine but it has a similar top top thread tensioner system. It is one of the better ones as far as detail goes and if you follow the way it is done you shouldn't have any other top tension problems else you may have a worn out / damaged top tensioner on your machine. The video shows the top thread going over the small post located on the right side of the discs of the top thread tensioner unit. That point of having your top thread go over the post before going to the take-up spring disc has been a topic of much contention. I happen to fall into the category of believing it should go over the post. My reasoning is i) if the thread will not go over the post and sit properly behind the post the thread size is to large for that machine. ii) provides more surface contact area of the top thread between the two tensioner discs. I have done it both ways on my machines and find I get more consistent tension but that just maybe me and the sizes/type of thread I use. Once you get the thread path and tension settled out you should never have to manually thread your machine again when have to or want to change the top thread. i) Cut the old thread just above the old spool and tie the new thread to the old top thread that is still threaded properly through to the needle, ii) Lift and lock the pressor foot in the up position iii) Pull the old thread out of the eye of the needle and pull on the old top thread which will pull the new thread through. iv) Cut the top thread above the knot of old and new thread v) Thread the new thread through the needle. Best of Luck, kgg

If the same thing happens with V92 thread. I would have a tendency to check the tension that you have set your bobbin thread to. Too much bobbin tension can also cause the bobbin thread from not being drawn up into the material. kgg