kgg

Simple way would be to determine the no load stitch length by 1. removing thread from needle and doing a foot long seam in a piece of ordinary paper. 2. count the number of stitches it punched in a 1 inch section at different locations in the seam. As sometimes stitch consistency can vary with worn parts. 3. without removing the piece of paper, do a reverse stitch or a inch or so at the end of the seam. The needle should go backwards into the same holes the forward stitch made. If not it maybe because of worn parts or being a bit out of adjustment. kgg

Whatever the limitations are for the Singer 29k class of patchers the Chinese patcher is even more restricted. The fit and finish are typically poor at best. kgg

If you mean the cheap Chinese patcher, which I do have one myself and not the real Singer 29K. They are a tinkers delight. It is fairly easy to change the needle to a 135 X16 industrial needle which does open up the selection of thread you can use. The drawn back is always going to be the size and capacity of the bobbin. The bobbin is really small. Some people have made major changes and some have had good success but it definitely would not be my first choice in the one arm bandit class of machines. kgg

My first guess is the feed dog is to high and banging the pressor foot. I would first download the Juki Du1181n manual and compare the height of your feed dog to that of the Juki 118. If it is out of spec it is a simple adjustment outlined on page 27. kgg

Excellent advice. kgg

Yes, should you need the extra torque and speed reduction gained by adding a speed reducer it is fairly easily added later to any industrial sewing machine. For what you are sewing I would take a wait and see approach. Great if you need one otherwise it is just a nice attachment. You can also add a needle positioner later should you need one but be fore warned that some people have had problems ranging anywhere from difficult to not work properly when added to a machine with certain speed reducer configurations. Some people like the needle positioner and some not so much. I think the best machine that you listed is the Juki 1541 but I would advise you to buy a Juki DNU-1541"S" with the safety clutch. The others that you listed are various clones of various Juki machines. Another option maybe the Juki DU-1181N if you only really need a walking foot, others could advise you better on this. Some people say a needle feed machine may struggle when you have multiple layers of material in a seam, where as plain jane walking foot machine may not. There is no one machine that will cover all the bases. I have both of these machines as well as others myself. The way I have my Juki DNU-1541"S" setup it really hates anything under 3mm thick which is approximately equal to the thickness of 7 oz of leather. The Juki DU-1181N is quite happy doing things under 3mm. As for reliability both have never given me any problems other then the typical "USER" error stuff. The Juki DU-1181N was a fair bit cheaper then the Juki DNU-1541"S". I would advise you to look at the following videos which may help to do decide if a compound feed is your best option: Juki DNU-1541S Juki DU-1181N

You would get better advise if you gave us a better understanding as to majority of what you are planning on sewing (fabric / leather ), flat items like wallets or round items like bags and how thick. The flatbed machines you have listed maybe either to much / not enough machine or the wrong style (flatbed vs cylinder bed). Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

Buying a used anything you really need to see and hear it in operation as Wiz has suggested. Which in this case is going to be impossible as you are 3000km away from that particular dealer in Toronto. Juki's tend to be costly on the used market. While Juki's privately owned do occasionally come available most have been used in an industrial/commercial setting. If you can find one from a dealer within a reasonable drive, in good shape and for about the same price, probably a little more, then a new clone I would choose the Juki over the clone. In your area they maybe as scarce as hens teeth. Probably not going find them as all the accessories in the photo are some of my designs and 3d printed. Slip on mini table (takes under 2 minutes to attach/ release), holders for scissors/needles/bobbins (at the top of the machine), bobbin holder (over the bed), the binding guides and binding tape platter, the accessories holder for needles / bobbins (to the right of the machine) and the 3 spool thread holder (at the rear of the machine) kgg

I wouldn't be to keen to do many bobbins of thread up at a time as they will develop a coil memory which if left to long may affect your stitch look. If you are doing a bunch of bobbins in different thread sizes colour code the bobbins with a permanent maker or a light dab of ladies nail polish (many colours to choose from) . Like pink marked bobbins are V69 thread, purple V92, black V138 you get the idea. kgg

I would also check out Japan Sewing Machine and Company who are also in Toronto. Their clones are called the "Kobe". Ask for Chris, great to deal with. I have purchased three new machines from him.Two flatbed machines, Juki 1541S, Juki 1181N and one cylinder bed machine a Kobe 1341. The casing on the JapanFuji seems a little rougher then the Kobe. They call theirs a LS-1341 but in reality it is 341 clone. I was pleasantly surprised as I went to buy a Juki LS-1341, decided to give the Kobe a try. The price was right and like yourself some of the other clones were in the ball park of a true Juki. If I don't like it after six months I'll sell it and get a true Juki LS-1341. So far it has handled everything I have thrown at it. It came with table, servo motor, both a knee lift and foot lift for raising the pressor foot as well as thread holder (which I never even took out of the box, I use my own). It can handle V138 top and bobbin out of the box but I think I could easily use 207 as the top thread. Some people like the needle positioner and others not so much, depends on what you need/like/want. a needle positioner can be installed later should you need/like/want one. For my needs I didn't need the speed reducer.Once again if you find that you need/like/want one it can easily be purchased and installed later. A nice thing is I can use and interchange bobbins between all three of those machines. I do recommend you get additional true Juki bobbins as they seem like they have much better manufacturing tolerances. In the picture I have it setup for binding with a mini 8" x 8" flatbed, which maybe a little difficult to see in the photo. Which ever machine you decide on all the best of luck. Stay Safe, kgg

I would call their customer service and say that if a tech doesn't call you back in the next 72 hours you will take them up on their 60 money back offer. kgg

I still think old iron is the best iron. The domestic plastic sewing machines with a 1000 different stitches are just consumer junk. How many of them are going to working in 10 years let alone a 100. kgg

Willbury in Ontario you are also facing another couple problems, certification and insurance. Nanny state anyone. 1. When you install equipment that is not CSA approved you will need your setup inspected by the Ontario electrical inspection authority and tagged before it is put into service unless you buy a certified setup from a CSA certified manufacturer. Forbid anything happens and it has not been inspected / tagged potentially you maybe left holding the bag. This in the past did created problems prior to the new trade agreement. If I am not mistaken now they have an agreement where CSA or UL certifications are recognized on both sides of the border. An example would have been as simple as buying say a electric stove across the border in the USA and you had a fire. The first thing the fire inspector would check was the nameplate for the CSA certification, no CSA certification your insurance probably would walk. 2. Count on installing a system that can handle at least twice the current of the three phase load rating. Which in turn means your operation cost to operate the clicker will increase. Depending on your location and setup you maybe better just off getting a 3 phase drop to your property. Some addition things to checkout, kgg

If you could do a video of the rear of the machine it may be more helpful as this would show what the rear drive rod is doing. It could be as simple as one of the bolt has come loose that tightens down to this shaft. kgg

Like the old adage, you get what you pay for. My experience is if the thread is going to be exposed to a lot of bleach, as in washing, and drying the bonded polyester thread will hold up much better. kgg

It depends on what is designed for. The main manufacturers have different types of thread made for specific sewing purposes. On the bottom of your spool it will have a manufactures name, thread size, colour, weight of spool, type and brand name. Example would be say: Coates, V69, Black, 1 lb, Bonded Polyester, Dabond You then can go to the manufacturers website to figure out all the specs on the brand (Dabond) and what the thread was designed to do best. If it is a generic unlabelled, typically Chinese, thread best of luck. I have see it as stiff as a board and as weak as domestic general purpose V46 and labelled V92. Colour also makes a difference to the stiffness particularly in black as it is a result of the dying process. The best thing to do is by a quality brand like American Elfird (made in Canada and USA) or Coates for the purpose you are sewing. You will spend a little more but the quality will always be there. There is nothing more frustrating then a bad spool of thread. kgg

Since V69 has a breaking strength of 10.6 lb and V92 has a breaking strength 14.2 lbs you could try tying a piece of thread to 14 lb of weight and see if you can lift it without it breaking. If it breaks it is V69 if not it is V92. Just a thought, Merry Xmas kgg

Hi jimi, Merry Xmas, my experience with the 3d printers may help someone down the road. kgg

Well said Uwe. kgg

Adding your $500 premium that may put you in the ball park of a Juki LS-1341. Which you may want to consider. kgg

Definitely is not that ladies first time doing that work. A master. kgg

I would seriously look at the Juki LS-1341which is rated for V138, thread top and bobbin. Lots of parts / accessories readily available at reasonable prices for Juki and Juki clones not so much for the Pfaff. If you don't need a cylinder machine since you are not doing bags maybe the Juki DNU 1541S or better a 1508 flatbed machine. kgg

Simple answer is NO. It is a domestic sewing machine made for fabric probably maxing out at V69 and at $250 it seems to me way overpriced. The Consew even through is more expense I think it would be your better option. Those that use the Consew machine would be better to guide you. Remember "Buy Once, Cry Once" , don't be penny wise and pound foolish. kgg

I thought they stopped doing the V138 upgrade but could be mistaken. All these machines were basically intended for was the offshore repair of sail material but can do decent work on other material as well. The pressor foot and feed dog are very aggressive but that can be somewhat tuned out not too leave as many marks in leather. Stitch constantly can be a challenge particularly as material thickness increases. They will do nicely for the occasional heavy use but are not built to withstand it for long. Unless you really need the zig zag feature you would be better off getting a good used machine in the Juki 1541S (compound feed, rated V138 top and bobbin) class or if you don't really need V138 maybe you could go down to a machine in the Juki 1181n (walking foot, rated V92 top and bobbin) class depending on what your needs/wants are. kgg

My experience is that the 1541S does not like things less then 3mm thick as the feeding is a little too aggressive while on the same amount of material the 1181n happily sews along. The 1541S excels at the mid level of thick stuff while the 1181N excels at the light to mid weight stuff. My 1181n is basically setup for lighter stuff and binding / cording. The pressor foot on the 1181N has a much smaller profile with the feed dog nowhere near as aggressive. The 1181N reminds me more of the feel and sound of a really nice old domestic Singer humming along, just with better capabilities. kgg