kgg

I think another factor would be the type of needle being used as vinyl can be a bit sticky along with how thick the vinyl is and the type of material as a backing. kgg

Thanks MtlBiker. I am terrible with using the drawer and on the last two machines I never even bother too install them or the thread spools. My experience is the drawer has a tendency to grow stuff to over flowing and when I want something it seems to magically disappear into a black hole. So for me it came down to what I use the most and where. Work area: Snips/Scissors, Needles, little screwdriver for bobbin tension and needle replacement, bobbins always need to be at the ready and close at hand. Storage area for me is at the wheel side of the machine so I need thread for the machine and bobbin, bobbins, needles, and depending on the machine a place to store larger scissors / pinking shears. Tape folders / binders need to be kept with the binder tape spool platter while small nuts, screws etc. I keep in a wall mounted small storage tray unit. kgg

Thanks DonInReno. Each of my machines have a different main purpose so they get dolled up slightly different but with similar attachments. The main attachment that goes on all the machines is a hands free bobbin winder attachment that automatically cuts the end of the bobbin thread during the winding of the bobbin. One version is on this machine as well. It really is a simple gizmo. Notice the thread from the bobbin that is on the winder to the little sewing center on the side of the machine. kgg

Thanks dikman, don't like to be to far from a bobbin or needle. All my attachments I do 3D print them as it is a great poor mans format for prototyping. As we speak one of the printers is doing a new anti- vibration adjuster for the little table to prevent any possible vibration being transferred back into the machine. The front support on the table is really a waste and not necessary but just in case I put more then twenty pounds downward pressure. Next week I am planning on starting two new projects. One is for a full size table similar to the little one but quicker to install and the top will be made out of HDPE with the support structure being 3d printed. I know I'm impatient, the goal with the new version is to cut the install time down. The other one is going to be a left foot operated reverse gizmo. kgg

I went down the rabbit hole with making life a little easier / more convenient by adding a few attachments to my machines, Juki 1541S, Juki 1181n, Chinese patcher, Consew 223, Pfaff 1245 and my most recent machine, a Kobe 1341. Went to buy a Juki 1341 but had a little bit of a hard time justifying the price so I said I'd give the Kobe a shot and if I didn't like it I would sell the thing. I came home with a Kobe 1341 which really is an old Juki 341 casing. So far it seems to do a decent job. The machine came with a table, servo motor, thread stand, knee lift and foot lift. The way I have them listed is how I rate my machines and at present the Kobe is next in line after the Juki 1181N but time will tell. Like most cylinder bed machines it needed some additions to make life easier. So me being me and my time is free I designed / built / tested a few attachments. Since I am always misplacing / knocking off the table scissors and losing stuff in the black hole or more commonly known as the sewing machine drawer I had to add a few items. I added: i) an angle adjustable scissors holder / needle holder/ screw driver / bobbin holder attachment to the top of the machine, photo K3. Holds two bobbins, a screwdriver, one flat of needles and scissors. ii) a two bobbin holder closer to the cylinder arm, Photo K9. iii) a small accessory center to the wheel side of the machine photo K5. It holds 9 bobbins, a screwdriver and 6 flats of needles. iv) what I think is a better three thread spool holder, photo K19. v) a 8 " x 8 " table top that installs in under two minutes that is custom fitted to the head and attaches with three screws to the machine. This allows me to use the tape folders from my other machines, photo K18. I will add the photos in additional posting. Stay safe, kgg vi) The table top lead me to designing a almost zero resistant binder tape holder with self centering guides that can be utilized as well for cording. The tape holder can accept easily 12 inch coils of 2 inch binding, photo K7, K8. To keep the resistance to a minimum and constant the spool of tape and or cording actually spins on a ball bearing race base rather then the machine dragging the tape around a stationary platform. The main goal in all the attachments was "No" holes to be drilled in the machine or table top and be quick release. Any and all comments are welcomed.

Yes, the 1341 machine should be all dolled up in the next few days with a 8" x8" mini nose table attachment as well as the other machine / table mounted accessories in place. look forward to hearing what you decide. kgg

I agree with Wiz, go to the dealer and ask to use a 2750 with and without a needle positioner, some people fine them good others not so much. Being able to go to the dealer has great advantages both in the initial purchasing of the machine and having local support to quickly resolve any issues should any arise down the road. Also you can then decide if you really need or just would like the upgrades over the basic 2750 which I think would be about an extra $500 plus tax. If you decide to go with a speed reducer later on keep in mind that it can affect the proper operation of the needle positioner. Ask the dealer if adding one would possibly create a problem. I would also bring a sample of what you want to sew as well.

Simply gorgeous!!!! kgg

It appears it depends on what country you live in. If you are in Australia seems you get a defined warranty - 1yr parts and labour but in North America seems to be a bit different. More of a limited warranty with a no charge warranty service from the retailer. kgg

After much investigating, reading technical specs and my own testing I have mostly converted to 1lb cones of Coats Dubond Bonded Polyseter and for Bonded Nylon I use A&E thread. The cheap Chinese stuff, particularly black bonded nylon in 8 oz cones, doesn't hold a candle too either. It is a little more expensive but much, much better quality. kgg

Save yourself the hassle, buy the brand name that the clones are aspiring to copy. Either the Juki 1541S or better the Juki 1508. You will not be disappointed. kgg

I have not heard that the tariffs on the machines from China have been lifted in the US. Be interesting to see how much the price drops once they are lifted. kgg

You haven't said what you are planning on making mostly, thickness, thread size. Without knowing what you want to make it is hard to say what machine would be best, suiting your needs. It maybe that a flatbed would be better suited to your sewing needs. kgg

Nicely done. kgg

Remember by once, cry once. kgg

Quality / dependability, plain and simple. The last I checked the Juki 1541s is still made in Japan not China. The Juki is the standard that the Chinese clones try to measure up against. kgg

Once all this settles down, maybe companies may have too look at not having all their manufacturing / suppliers in one country. kgg

I agree but doesn't Juki 341: 1. usually have the nameplate rivet to the machine which means two holes should be present where the weird square intention is. 2. doesn't look like the normal Juki latch connecting the base to the sewing machine 3. the metal seems to be cut back further towards the main body on the bottom of the cylinder. I would investigate further as if I remember someone in France had a problem with a Pfaff branded machine that wasn't. kgg

I agree. Since this is going to be a expensive investment go visit dealers with your stuff in hand and sew with the size / type thread you want to use. No one machine is going to do both ends of the sewing / thickness spectrum. I think the machine that was recommended is going to tear the hell out of the thin stuff since your requirement is only for appearance and not structure. There are videos of the difference between the Juki 8700 vs Juki 1181 vs Juki 1541 vs Juki 1508 using the same material and how the 1541 and 1508 destroy the same thin material. The object is to use the right machine with the right needle system for the job otherwise it is like using a sledge hammer to hammer in a finishing nail. Also getting the stitch length perfect every time maybe a chore for awhile since it has the reverse and stitch length on the same lever. Remember buy once, cry once.

I agree with dikman. Handwheel doesn't appear to be wobbling, I think it is the needle positioning unit either not properly centred on the machines main shaft or a fault in the positioning attachment unit itself. kgg

I am very impressed and from what I can gather a USA product. It looks like it is begging for a nice slow speed servo. This one seems to be a game changer for people needing a heavy duty machine. I hope this one catches on. kgg

I would tend to be cautious, maybe bordering on a little a healthy paranoia and use some form of disinfection until a reliable source can confirm the life expectancy of this virus on all types of surfaces. All of us remember the SARS outbreak in Ontario.

Have you tried to smooth out the aggressiveness of the presser foot on your patcher? Also what thread are you thinking about using? Wouldn't a walking foot be better rather then a jump foot like whats on your patcher? Wouldn't a Singer 7-33 class machine be more suited to what you would be looking for then the J&R? kgg

I would suggest buying a sheet of HDPE in 3/8 or 1/2" thickness. Up hear HDPE is commonly know a puck board as it is used in lining the side walls of hockey arenas. A 4'x 8' sheet then can be cut easily with a jig saw or table saw to the sizes / shape you need and a sheet should cost about $150 to $200 CA. kgg