kgg

Mic the size of the shaft and the size of the hole in the pulley. Could be that the shaft is metric and the pulley is english. Like your 50mm pulley is .8mm smaller then 2 " but most would consider the 50mm to be a 2 " pulley. Maybe try dremel tooling the hole in the pulley a little larger. kgg

Happen to be looking on kijiji.ca for sewing machines in Ontario and came across an add called "Cowboy Industrial Leather Sewing Machines" with this as a description " Looking for a new Industrial leather sewing machine then you need to look at a Cowboy. We are the new dealer in Ontario." located in Barrie, ON L4N 2N1. No other contact info except they have 52 vehicle adds. Just found it to be interesting. kgg

I went through the same thing that you are going through now when I was looking for a new flatbed machine. I knew what I wanted that would do most of my stuff. What to buy, clone or ? Test drove a couple of the clones, then tried the Juki and with no hesitation bought the new Juki 1541S for less money then what one of the clone dealers wanted. I would check with the brick / mortar dealers, compare the warranties, shipping costs and price for a new clone. Then do the same comparison for a Juki for both new and used. The new Juki in that class of machine I would expect the price difference to be significant however I would take a good used reconditioned Juki from a dealer over a new clone any day. When you finally narrow it down to a couple of machines take a trip to those dealers with a sample of your stuff in hand. I drove 4 hours each way to get my machine. Yes it will add to the cost but it is better and cheaper in the long run to get the right machine the first time around hopefully it is going to be a long term investment. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

Parott1, since your customer is being very specific about the thread being used you don't want to be responsible for future repairs or replacement of items related to thread issues. I would call the customer and ask why they are specifically asking for Coats Dabond. I like the Coats Dabond Bonded Polyester for it's resistance to consistent abuse, washing, bleaching and drying. They must have a reason related to the thread specs/performance then check with American & Efird (800-861-3256) and ask what their recommendation and equivalent thread spec / performance is. When purchasing quality thread stick with a real manufacturer, piece of mind. I would avoid purchasing just some dealers relabelled thread made by some manufacturer from somewhere in the world for a slight price difference. Maybe great thread or poor quality stuff no way of knowing. With a real manufacturer you can get the technical spec for a particular thread so you know what it was designed for. Otherwise the only thing you know for sure is the colour and size. American & Efird is a major manufacturer like Coats with similar pricing, readily available and technical specs are available. kgg

Sometimes good old fashion gasoline will remove such things from your hands/fingers. Wash well afterwards with soap and water. Remember, No Smoking. kgg

I think the problem with the above statement is that turbotexas is not familiar with older domestic Singers which have the needles installed with the long grove on the right hand side versus commercial machines having the needle installed with the long groove installed on the left. The thread always follows the long groove so the threading of the needle on the older domestic Singers is done from right to left which the video shows correctly. I find this topic interesting on how a different / modified foot can affect the thread tension. This may not be a problem on commercial sewing machines but we all should be aware of this when we change out the presser foot on any machine particularly if a problem crops up after the change out. I think your methodology is spot on: problem, base line data, modification, test, document result, result comparison and let the chips fall wherever. The data won't lie. kgg

I think first off you need to up the budget up a fair bit to at least to the $1000 mark. For holster type work a cylinder bed would probably be your best purchase. As you are a first time buyer I would recommend that you buy preferably new or good used from a real brick and mortar store for service /support/ warranty unless you able to do repairs yourself. Yes, there are sometimes good second hand deals out here but you need to know what you are looking at with regards to overall condition, availability of accessories and replacement parts. Keep in mind that all machines at some point are going to need to be repaired. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

A little more info would help with your problem. What size thread are you using, what size of needle are you using, what are you trying to sew and pictures of the top thread path. Some simple checks: Do you have the needle installed correctly (long groove on the needle should face the left hand side not towards the machine pulley) and thread going from the left through the needle? Are you sure that you have the thread coming off the bobbin correctly (counter clockwise), tensioned properly for the bobbin thread size and installed correctly? What things are not adding up? The machine should have a thread range up to v138 thread, 135x17 for fabric or 135x16 for leather. Once you get the problems straighten out the Singer 211G155 is a nice machine and differs from the 211G156 in that it doesn't have reverse. This machine I think will do good on upholstery weight leather but will be seriously lacking for doing knife holsters. Could be that the actual clutch needs adjustment, is seized open or worn out. kgg

If you assume the servo can turn at the 100 rpm setting under load then the 5" pulley will turn at 40 rpm, 6" pulley would turn at 33 rpm, 4" pulley would turn at 50 rpm. A more realistic servo motor setting would be at least 200 rpm which would change the numbers to: 4" pulley would turn at 100 rpm 5" pulley will turn at 80 rpm 6" pulley will turn at 66 rpm Extending the clutch engagement lever will give you better speed control, be a bit more forgiving and make feathering easier but nothing for speed reduction. For speed reduction you would need to install a speed reducer pulley between the clutch motor pulley and the sewing machine pulley. kgg

Nice Kelpie looks energetic, evenly marked giving a very pleasing expression. I like the collar, nice and wide around the throat area it will help protect the throat from a pulling / lunging injury. The nylon lead wouldn't be my choice. A leather lead made from good horse harness weight leather will be stiff for a while but will last for years. I have some good leather leads that are at least 20 yrs old. The nylon kennel lead style leads last about 3 years. If you do decide to go leather for the lead part make sure it fits comfortably in your hand, to small will feel like it is cutting into your hand and to large feels like you can't close your hand. I like 3/4" width and the wife likes 3/8" on the same dog. If you feel comfortable the dog will sense this down the lead, if you are fiddling around with the lead the dog will be unsettled. kgg

What I would do is go back to basis. Start from scratch remove all thread, top and bobbin. Re-thread top, re-thread another bobbin, check to see if there is something amiss in or around the bobbin case, install a new needle of the correct size for the thread size and reinstall the bobbin making sure the thread is coming off in the right direction. Then hand wheel through and see what happens. From your post I get the impression that you are completely removing the top thread before installing new / different thread, if so why? Even through I don't own this type of machine, when I change thread on my Juki 1541S because of size, type, colour or running out for the top thread I just lock the presser foot up to release the tension on the top thread tensioner, cut the thread at the old spool, tie the end of the old thread to the end of the new spool thread, hall the thread out of the needle and pull the end of the old thread dangling alongside the needle, install a new needle if necessary and thread needle. Basically, once I threaded the machine correctly I haven't needed to go over the thread path since. kgg

What did you come up with as to availability, cost etc.? kgg

There was discussion on the Singer 97-10 a while back such as "Singer 97-10 Users? Questions ". Just do a search in the search at the top and you should get some good info. kgg

I had my hearing damaged enough that I had to get hearing aids, nasty things, hate hate them. Lost mine due to shooting rifles and hand guns for extended periods of time with no ear protection. But on the other side of the coin the ones I have shut off fast enough that I don't need to wear ear protection when shooting. A side benefit is that the wife says put in those damn hearing aids but never says to put the batteries in. Blissfully Quiet kgg

All sound related to normal living can and does have an effect on ones hearing later in life. What effects one person may not be a problem for most depends on the individuals sensitivity. Unless you are in a tiny space, using 20 lb hammer or power actuated equipment for prolonged periods of time there shouldn't be a problem. I think California is just trying to scare the hell out of it's people that everything is harmful and putting them in the bubble wrap mentality. Surprised there isn't a warning on beds about waking up from a sleep that the sudden shock of awareness to reality may be hazardous to ones health. kgg

Hi Matt Coats is a damn good thread I use mostly Coats Dabond Bonded Polyester myself. The V138 (Tkt 20) and the V69 (Tkt 40) are both 8 oz (250g) spools are I think considered a small spool on this side of the pond even though I have seen 4 oz spools. So the price is fairly comparable. kgg

I couldn't find any servo motor made by Juki on Amazon, could you provide a link to the servo motor. kgg

I am not sure I understand the difference between the Techsew 2600 and Phaff 335 (maybe the 0.55 inches vs 3/8) and their pros and cons so that probably means I need to research a lot more. Different machines all together other then being cylinder machines. To add to the mix depends on whether you are looking at a new Pfaff 335 which I think max's out at V69 thread or an older version. kgg

What thread are you using for £10 for 1lb (500g) spool which should have 3000 yds on the spool. I spoke to American & Efird last week and a 1lb (500g) spool, which should have 4200 yds on the spool, of Anefil Bonded Polyester or Nylon in V92 (T90,Tkt30) is going to cost $42 CA ($31.25 US / £24.56). They also said they are not supplying 8 oz(250g) thread anymore for general information. Totally agree as I do like to know what I am buying rather then I will take some thread in colour AA in spool size XX and thread size YY. Some retailers / importers don't even bother to add their own label, the spool just has whatever the "real" manufacturer has labelled it as. Totally agree. I agree when on 1 lb spools but the smaller 8 oz spools other things can and does happen particularly with "less then" quality (probably cheap Chinese) thread. kgg

Ya the good old days, I use to design & build substations and sequential controls for about 25 years. kgg

You should get some good use from that surface area. Very nice, the drafting table brings back some good memories from my previous life. Now you well be able to get the angles correct easier every time when marking / cutting. Does the table have the ability to move from almost straight up to down flat? kgg

JC2019, since this is going to your first and main machine, I would strongly advise you to decide on whether it is going to be a cylinder bed or flatbed machine for your stuff. Then decide on a firm price you can afford which will help in deciding whether it is going to be new or used. Finally since it is going to be an expensive investment take a road trip to at least one brick and mortar vendor that has more then one manufacturers machines in stock. Bring along some of what you what to sew and compare not only the results but how the machine sounds and looks. My requirement was the machine had to do a great stitch, run smooth as silk, be flawless and look great right out of the box along with a good detailed readable "English" manual for future reference. Buying a new or used machine online can be a great experience from a dollar saving perspective for the experienced user or the ultimate nightmare or boat anchor. That is going to depend on the vendor and whether it is purchased from a site like Amazon. Amazon has a great return policy in comparison to some others should there be a problem. Some new clone machines that I looked at when I was looking for a new machine I do admit their price was enticing, they did sew and that was about it for me. Their look / finish / feel for the price was what you would expect from an old Russian Lada car as well as some did the shake, rattle and roll. Some clones looked OK but sounded like a bucket of bolts banging around in a 45 gallon drum. Makes one pause to wonder about internal quality of parts and their longevity. It is going to be hard to beat the quality of machines like Juki, Pfaff, Alder and some others. A quality machine will have a better resale value down the road then a similar class of clone. Expect to pay more for a quality machine either new or used. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

I know what you meant to convey in that by putting a 2" pulley on the drive motor it would cause the sewing machine pulley to run slower not that the drive motor runs slower by putting a 2" pulley on it. kgg

Oh the fun of thread. You didn't mention if the thread you were using was on 1 lb spools or 8 oz spools and if they come of the spool in the same direction. I find black bonded nylon to have a tendency of feeling a little thicker and usually stiffer due to the dying / drying process. Thread can and does vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer and their individual specifications for the thread. Cowboy maybe getting their thread from manufacturer A and Weaver getting theirs from manufacturer B both tuned slightly different. It could be as simple as a difficult spool of red thread that may be older. A lot of good quality thread manufacturers will list the date of manufacture. I find a lot of the cheap 8oz stuff from China mostly lists just the size, some in Tkt and some in V. Depending on the manufacturer I find that if I go from white to black I may have to adjust my tensions in both top thread as well as the bobbin. If I go from 1 lb to 8 oz I have to mount the spool horizontally or it is just going to create problems. For a lot of reasons I predominately use 1 lb spools of bonded polyester. kgg

Darren for now is not available as indicated in the topic "I bought an ABLE290 manual for my Chinese Shoe Patcher from Darren Brosowski." Singermania indicated this in a post dated March 21. " Darren and I are friends, though he is not answering communication at present. He admitted himself that he messed up pretty badly and we and others have been trying to help those that did not receive machines, did not get machines that worked, did not get machines back that were in for service, did not get their full orders and so on. I'm guessing you will not see him here or anywhere else until the creditors disappear. It is an awkward situation, a lot of accusations and threats have been made. As a veteran of many years in business and a couple of recessions I know it can happen to anyone. " kgg