kgg

Great, you got the piece out. I would really clean the hole for the needle, maybe with a pipe cleaner and light oil just in case there is some dirt in there. Remember to put a cloth or paper towels down on your bed to catch any oil. As far as needing a second screw I don't think but I am not sure so check your manual or download a service manual for the machine. Merry Christmas, kgg

Forgot to mention. Once you decide on thread size that works for your stuff if you have problems with the 8 oz cones particularly black like excessive backlash causing the thread to go under the cone move up to the 1 lb size cones. kgg

After you get the broken needle part out. You are presently using V69 Bonded Nylon thread which will require a 135 x 17 size 18 min. but you may continue to have problems with using this small a thread and diameter needle going through multi layers of vinyl. I would change the thread to at least V92 (stronger) and a larger needle size (20). The larger needle size will be larger in diameter and stronger with less deflection. I do like your table extension it will come in handy. kgg

The thread cone should have a label on the inside bottom of the cone. On the label you should see a description like Bonded Nylon or Bond Polyester and a size like V69, V92 or V138. Once you know the size of thread you can determine what is the correct needle size that you should be using. A good thread / needle chart is can be found at ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). If I am correct your machine uses the standard 135 x 17 needles for material and 135 x 16 for leather. For V69 thread you should be using a size #18 needle, V92 thread size #19 and V138 thread size #22. However what I have found is that you may have to go up a needle size if the material is a little sticky like some types of vinyl. Depending on the material you are sewing the needle needs to be replaced when it causes problems or starts to get dull. I usually replace my needles every 8 hours of run time, change of thread size or when it starts to cause problems, whichever comes first. kgg

A couple of photos would help. What thread are you using? What needle size are you using? Is the machine thread path correct and the bobbin installed correctly? How thick is the material you are trying to sew? kgg

Yes that is the one I was thinking of. Hope it helps. kgg

If you do a search here for a topic called " Bobbin Issue - Juki 1541S " there are some really good photo' s of what you should see with the presser foot plate removed and may give you some additional info. kgg

I would try resetting the safety clutch. The link should help with resetting the clutch. https://www.instructables.com/id/Re-engage-the-Safety-Clutch-on-Walking-Foot-Sewing/ It may also be the top pin that holds the hook basket in place got bent. If it is bent out of place it may have been caused by either not inserting the bobbin fully in place and hearing the click of the bobbin case lever the last time you put a fresh bobbin in, buildup of thread or not holding the thread for the first few stitches. The top pin is located at the top of the hook and you should be able to see it with the presser foot plated removed. kgg

Same here when it comes to some of the printers. So we treat them like a Bic lighter and recycle to the trash heap. kgg

Nice job. Interested in how they standup to use. What would be the cost of the real 38 mm spacers? I bet considerably more plus wait time. kgg

A bit shy on info. I am going to ask what is the difference between the Cobra class 18 and a Juki 1541S which are about the same cost expect the speed reducer on the Cobra. kgg

I have seen the prices for used machines right across the board going up the last month or so. Maybe people are hoping to cash in on the silly season rush, they should fall back in the new year. kgg

II agree with JLS. Checking the specs on the Cobra class 18 it will sew up to 20 oz leather which is about 8mm (0.315 inches). This would be below your belt requirement of 3/8 inch (0.375 inches) or about 9.5mm. kgg

Interesting stuff, but begs the question what do they get now as far as learning / doing a legit trade / skill or ? kgg

That is so nice to hear that the dealer took the machine back we little or no hassle. It would have been much more stressful if you had to return ship the machine. kgg

I had the thread fray at the needle on my Juki 1541s when I was pushing it well beyond it's thickness sewing abilities. I know the 1541 is not in the sewing class of the CB4500 but what solved my problem was changing the needle size up one larger then what was needed for the thread size. My theory was that the needle hole wasn't quite large enough and maybe some slight needle deflection causing the thread too rub and fray. kgg

The two one-arm bandits are heavy duty and will do holster type work where as the Sailrite is basically meant to do much thinner material like canvas. Keep in mind that no one machine is going to do everything. If you are doing wallets buy brand name (Juki) upholstery grade machine or if doing holsters buy a 441 type machine. kgg

For me that would not be a hard decision. I think the used one is way overpriced when compared to the price of a new machine/ knee lift/ table/ servo motor. The only difference is the used machine is $200 cheaper and has a roller guide. Roller guides are fairly cheap if you really need one. The new Consew 206 RB-5 would have warranty, local support, manuals, checked over to ensure everything is in proper working order by a qualified tech and ready to work. kgg

Great option over the portable walking foot machines. Nice, neat compact way of packaging a much better machine along with a servo motor into a small transportable unit. This may give those that are short on space some ideas. kgg

All the mentioned industrial machines (Alder, Juki, Consew, Singer )are proven old iron, the problem as the original posts states " I do not have room for a industrial sewing machine table. " So are there other options beside the portable walking foot machines? kgg

That doesn't say much for the dealer new or not. Not a great way to start off with a new machine. If they are a new dealer you would think the machine would not have left their hands until it was gone over and in perfect operating condition. For the price I would expect it to have been sewn off with the thread in the needle, the sew-off sample under the presser foot, manuals (operating and repair) in English and ready to work. You are to nice, if was me I would contact the "dealer" the machine came from and express my displeasure to the point of seriously considering whether or not to send it back. Have the dealer either do the repair, replace the machine or refund the money. If the dealer repairs it then they cann't say you screwed things up voiding your warranty should something else arise. kgg

I would choose the Juki 1341. The 1341 doesn't have any electronic controls that the 2342 has which are probably going to become expense / hard to find down the road. I like basic machines, easier and cheaper to repair / maintain. The bells and whistles are great for production but for the hobbyist or small commercial the KISS rule I think works best. Also the 2342 maybe a challenge to adapt to your needs. From your description of the glove and the photo if you go with a cylinder machine you will need a flat top table extension to do the majority of the work. Before you purchase any machine I would take the material needed to make a glove to the Juki dealer and do a test run with the thread you are planning on using. I would also suggest that you consider a flatbed Juki 1541S or 1508 for the main work and a patcher for doing the thumb attachment work. You have selected a really top notch brand that should give years of reliability. It really is going to come down to what will give you the best results that meets your abilities. kgg

Why not check with the company that you got the Juki 1541S from and see what they can offer, new or used in a Juki ls-1341. kgg

That was a smart move in tracking down the 650, the 750 is about $300 more and there is not much advantage over the 650 but not near the ability of the 1050. The consistency in all their models is excellent particularly when you dial it in a machine for one calibre. Just like with sewing machines dialed in for one function. If you didn't know what the numbering relates too, it's the number of completed rounds that should be able to be produced by the lever in an hour but the 1050 when motorized can easily do 2 to 3 times that amount. Look forward in seeing what you produce with the new CB4500. kgg

You should enjoy the Dillon. Excellent equipment, they are the Juki of reloading gear. Which model did you get. We have had no problems except for having to design / make a small mod on the 1050 for the revolving cylinder to prevent the possibility of casings from tipping slightly. kgg