kgg

My concern with spending that kind of money would be who you are purchasing it from. Is it someone that is using the machine or a dealer or a re-seller or a flipper. If it was from a dealer maybe worthwhile in making an offer, if it suits your needs, but from a flipper I would need to see it running and gone through. I would also investigate the availability of parts / accessories and check with dealers for other used machines. kgg

Normal ones are for blocking sunlight to help keep the room cooler while others are for security. Do a google search for "Hideaway Helper classroom security blinds". kgg

With such a new machine I also wonder why and am going to assume with such a new machine it was done with instructions / guidance from Techsew. I also agree, It is excellent advice. I would also contact Techsew by phone and or email. Outlining the problems you have been having with the machine as well as email them photo's / video. The more information the better. kgg

Very Nice. kgg

I agree using a domestic sewing machine is going to be difficult to say the least or near impossible. If you don't have access to a proper fur sewing machine you are going to need at least an industrial walking foot sewing machine and even then it may prove to be difficult depending on the machine and your sewing technique. kgg

Buy the best basic machine you can afford. If that is a new or used machine buy a brand name. When you go to sell the machine a brand name will be easier to sell, sell faster and command a better price. Don't be penny wise and pound foolish. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

Thank you for the photo's on the thread path. What I see: i) In the first photo you are missing the felt pad that holes the thread against the back part of the squareish guide just before the thread goes down to the needle guide. Lost of tension at that location of top thread. ii) This is I think your main problem. You say you are using a "125 size 20 135 x 17 DP x17 " the needle needs to be a #23 needle for V138 or if the material is sticky or tough you need a #24 needle. The needle hole is just to small to pull the top back up with the additional V138 bobbin thread so it lays flat. The #20 needle is good for V92 thread. As a note the easiest way to make sure the top thread is seated as far down in between the main tension disc's as possible is to have the needle up to it's highest point away from the feed dog and then rise the pressor foot up and lock it by using the pressor foot lever at the rear of the machine so the tension discs release from each other then thread top thread through. Sometimes the thread may look like it is between the discs but isn't seated right in the middle of them. kgg

The Kobe LS-1341you have is a clone of the older Juki LS-341. I have a couple of questions that may narrow down the problem. 1) What size of thread are you using for the top and in the bobbin. It appears to be V138 or V207 for the top thread. I am going to assume it is V207 on top and V138 in the bobbin as the bobbin thread appears to be smaller. For V207 thread the minimum needle needs to be a 135x17 #24 needle in fabric or 135x16 #24 in leather. But you may have to move up to a #25 needle in sticky or thick stuff, which your machine is not rated to accommodate. If the needle doesn't make a large enough hole to haul the top thread and up back up you can get the straight bobbin line. 2) Top tension and thread path. If possible could you post a detail photo('s) from the top of the spool to the eye of the needle. 3) Bobbin tension not properly set. Have you done the bobbin drop test? Your machine is only rated for V138 in the bobbin. 4) Presser foot tension may need to adjusted slightly. As a note I run V138 top and in the bobbin in my Kobe LS-1341 most of the time. kgg

This particular machine is setup with a clutch motor for a start that I could easily replace with a servo motor, has a small bobbin, parts are expensive, always hated the color (which has no affect as to it abilities), V92 max thread machine, has always been too fussy for my liking in comparison to the Juki's / Singer's that I have owned and is getting a little long in the tooth. Some of it maybe me but I prefer not to use it as I have other machines that give me a lot more. Just my experience with this machine. kgg

I have attached a Pfaff 1245 subclass pdf which maybe of some help. I also have a Instruction Manual for old casting Pfaff 1245 but it is to large to insert as it is 8MB so if you want it I could email to you. Your machine looks very similar to mine but a newer version as mine is the awful puke yellow color. My Pfaff 1245 is delegated to the dark corners of the basement still in working order. Parts can be expensive in comparison to other machines. Like everything some people love them, some not so much. kgg Pfaff 1245 Subclass Old Casting.pdf

For me I have never felt that I needed to add a speed reducer. I find the plain jane brush type servo motors give me all the speed control that I so far have needed. Like Wiz I still have a couple clutch motor setups for when I need to punish myself. The problem or potential problem when a speed reducer is coupled with a high torque motor as that arrangement has the potential of over torquing the machine head parts. Having to much available motor power and the additional available torque provided by the speed reducer can be worst (twisted parts, unwanted trips of safety clutch, etc.) then an under sized servo motor. The best thing would be to ask the advice of the supplier of your machine for their recommendations as to the proper sizing of both the servo motor and speed reducer. kgg

Another couple of considerations to adding a speed reducer which will depend on the style you choose. Sometimes adding a speed reducer involves cutting the belt slot longer to allow for the new belt angle and location. You are probably going to have to drill additional holes through the table top to mount the speed reducer and sometimes depending on where the K-legs are mounted you may have to relocate the the whole top further to the left, just depends on who mounted the table top to the support K-legs. Even though the 1541 has a front mounted bobbin winder should yours fail you may find it cheaper / easier to just add a belt driven winder which may or may not be able be done if the belt slot has been lengthen. For some not being able to tilt the machine back easily is of no real concern for me it is a major concern as I tilt my flatbeds back all the time to change the bobbin as my fingers are to fat to fit comfortably underneath to remove/ install a bobbin properly. kgg

Nice work, remains me of the old lead shot bean bags we used to hold down engineering drawings but yours is an awful lot nicer. kgg

My reasoning is that in comparison the 1541 is an excellent commercial grade machine weighing in at 80 lbs (head weight), the 1508 is an excellent industrial grade machine weighting in at just over 98 lbs (head weight) and 2810 is an excellent professional grade machine weighing in at just over 123 lbs (head weight). My experience is the heavier the machine head, in a class, the longer it will last. My suggestion is based on the 2810 being properly maintained and properly rebuilt. If you can't go and physically check the machine out ask for very detailed photo's of not only the exterior but the thread guides, hook assembly, top and bottom of machine showing shafts and timing. Best of luck, kgg

For the number of hours of use per day you are planning on using the machine I would probably go for the 2810 over the 1541. kgg

Either machine should do the job but the 2810 is a much heavier duty and larger machine then either the 1541 or even the 1508. If you go with the 1541 make sure it is a 1541"S" having the safety mechanism. My experience is that there is a difference in the Juki's made in China and those made in Japan. I do have a China made 1181n and compared to the fit/finish/operation of my 1541S there is a difference. kgg

Funny how things differ. kgg

This not unique to the Juki 1541 they just gave the consumer an option to save a 100 bucks over the 1541"S" and are willing to run the risk. There are a lot of machines both brand name and clones that do not have this feature. Since you mention the Sailrite Fabricator in your original post, if I am not mistaken, the Sailrite Fabricator does not appear to have a safety mechanism (clutch) that can be reset as easily. Sailrite approached the problem by using basically a shear pin on the sewing machines drive pulley that would need to be replaced should a problem occur. Which is fine if you have a spare laying around. Maybe just me but I think just being able to depress a button and hand wheel to reset the safety mechanism (clutch) is easier with little down time after you clear the jam. kgg

Sorry dikeman, I have to disagree. Most of what is being supplied by the dealers in North America appear to be servo motors that have the small knob speed dial and they come with a spare set of brushes. There are a few dealers like Reliable and Sailrite that offer the 12 coil brushless servo motors and Consew also has a brushless series of motors but I couldn't fine information as to how many coils they have. I suspect 6 or 9 coils. The more coils equals a better brushless motor. My thought is for most use if a brush motor is properly broken in under no load, it should provide a lot of decent service. I would pass on the Juki 1541 for the main fact that it doesn't have the safety mechanism. When you jam the machine up at some point not having that feature could be a costly mistake. I would also pass on the Consew 226 unless it is in the 500 to 600 dollar range. That would put it at about 40 percent of a new equivalent, Consew 206 Rb-5, at around the $1400 mark. Also if I am not mistake the 226 has a smaller bobbin. Some things to consider. kgg

What size of needle and type of needle (leather or fabric needle) are you using? kgg

Yes, Juki has a very wide selection of machines for various applications. The flatbed machines I think that would meet your needs in the upholstery class would be the Juki DNU-1541"S" or the heavier and more costly Juki DNU-1508 either dressed with a 550 watt or better dial not digital controlled servo motor. As far as speed reduction I would suggest you give the standard speed / motor configuration a try first. If it works well for your needs you saved that cost to put into other things. Should you fine you need the extra toque or speed control it is a very simple change/add on. I have a Juki's 1541S, 1181N and Kobe 1341 (clone of Juki 341) that I mainly use with no speed reduction and they work just fine. My personal thought is if I really need to add speed reduction to get enough "torque" to get the job done I am using the wrong machine and need to move up to another class of machine. If it is for speed control then I may have to think about adding a speed reducer or changing the motor. The ideal thing would be to go to a dealer with your thickest stuff, the thread you are planning on using and give a few machines a test drive. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

That wouldn't surprise me in the least. In Ontario the police raided a large shopping mall a couple of years ago and a lot of stores in the shopping center were selling counterfeit / knockoff/ clone, call them what you may, items. This seems to be a problem right across the board. If the price seems to good chances are something is a miss. kgg

The Juki DNU-1541S, LS-1341 and 441 are still made in Japan. The industrial Pfaff's are made in China. Tolerances on some items from China / Taiwan will vary depending on the clone factory. Whether one clone or another is better has a lot to do with the dealer and their mechanic(s) and how well they are gone through, adjusted, setup and tested. kgg

In your first video at the 3 sec mark the position finger isn't seated in the slot of the basket as seen at the 11.43 mark in the video I linked to. kgg

Not all clones within the same class of machine as those of brand name machines are manufactured consistently equally as well. Some are good and some not so good. Where as brand names like Juki or Alder have the recognized consistent quality needed for durability over the long haul. That recognized durability translates into high initial costs and higher resale values. kgg