kgg

That is good news. I would seal the top in that location to prevent any further damage from concurring in the future. I think the little chip is from the manufacturing process not damage and the hole probably as well. So far, except for the legs, seems good.

It might have not been the delivery shippers who done the damage. The damage could have occurred before it got in the hands of the shipping company who then delivered it to you. But who caused the damage doesn't really matter Techsew should suck it up and step up to the plate to do the right thing. Techsew is Montreal which is located in the province of Quebec. Looking at your latest photos of the table frame, I wouldn't put the machine on it. The cheap table has had it's major support parts and welds over stressed to the point of buckling and possible risk of failure. Does your table top show any signs of hair line cracks, surface bubbling / lifting away from the wood particularly around the outside edges? Return the whole works and buy from someone else. kgg

I agree, do a chargeback. From what you are finding you need a whole new table frame and none of my tables ever have rocked as you describe. Tables should be rock solid after being levelled which you probably are going to have difficulty doing and capable of handling any side movements for that machine. kgg

The big and main question is who in the hell packs stuff on the underside of a pallete, your just asking for damage. What a half ass shipping technique that someone doesn't want to owe up too. In this case I think it was probably Techsew who packed the item to be shipped not UPS who may reject based on that. It really shouldn't matter who packed it Techsew should replace the damaged part if for no other reason then good customer service / retention. The leg piece was hit pretty hard to do that amount of damage. It would would worry me at lot particularly after spending that amount of cash. Their customer enticement, customer retention or customer service dosen't seem to be their strongest attribute. If it was me I would go over every inch of everything (machine head, table frame and top, motor as well as the packing box for the machine head) for signs of damage / fractures, no matter how small. Making sure particularly their are no hair line fractures/ misalignment's to the machine head with such a hard hit. Should be a lessen to anyone else who is thinking about buying a Chinese clone machine maybe they should checkout Chinese Clone resellers closer to home. There are a lot of resellers across Canada and the USA selling the same / similar stuff, probably out of the same Chinese factories, just with a different brand label slapped on the machine head. kgg

Sounds like you got the party line in hopes you will go away. You didn't hire the shipper Techsew did they are responsible to make the claim to the shipper and get you a replacement part in a timely manner so you can put the darn thing together and see if works. All the parts need to be in a serviceable condition. If you had bought it through Amazon you could probably have returned the hold thing with no questions and no re-stocking charge. Cann't imagine the problem you are probably going to have if the machine gives problems or has operating flaws. I would also check and see if you got proof the machine had been sewn off before being shipped and whether the user manual is written in some sort of coherent English. kgg

Simply stuff first: Replace the needle, maybe a bad needle, a dull needle or bent needle. Select a correct size of needle for the size of thread you are using and the material type. I replace my needles after every 8 - 10 hours of use whether it needs it or not. A good reference for thread to needle size would be https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Change the spool of thread with a fresh one or one from another of your other machines that is having no problems maybe a bad spool of thread. If using bonded nylon try bonded polyester or vise versa. Change bobbin and re-thread with fresh thread probably one from another of your other machines that is having no problems. Check and re-tension both top and bottom threads and making sure the top thread path didn't get mixed up by accident. If the problem goes away great if not then check the timing and the hook assembly for wear and old thread caught under or around it. kgg

If the bobbin tension is too slack, the thread may unwind extra thread from the bobbin that would cause a buildup of thread underneath the needle plate. If the bobbin has the right amount of tension for the size of thread I think you will find either not enough top thread tension maybe the thread is not sitting between the tension discs or an incorrect thread path to the needle from the spool. A couple of more pictures of your thread path from the thread spool to the needle maybe be helpful. kgg

Looking at your bags and without changing your design or method of how it is constructed I think to make your life a little easier you would need three machines. 1. A machine to do the zig zag pattern ( nice touch) probably continue to use your Sailrite until it dies for that. When it dies get another portable walking foot. To help make sewing with the Sailrite a little more convenient you may want to mount it in a regular size sewing table top and put a servo motor on it. Think of what Tandy did for their Stitch Master. 2. I think a patcher machine would be a better choice then a cylinder machine for your problem areas. The patchers are meant to get into those tight areas but typically they will only sew up to 1/4" and V92 thread. I think a cylinder machine will not get in those tight spots and then be delegated to just sewing straps. 3. If you need to sew 1/2 " of material and leather for straps to the bag then I think you would get better use out of probably a flatbed something similar to a Juki 1508 which can also be used for other parts of your bag construction. Is it possible to sew the seams, zipper and box corner of the interior that are causing the problem before installing the interior in the bag? Is it possible to sew the straps to the bag prior to the interior being installed or another method to reduce the overall thickness you have to sew through? If you can get the overall thickness down to 3/8" the cost of a machine would drop drastically. You could probably go from a Juki 1508 at ~ $2600 to Juki 1541S at ~$1800 or if you want to go with the clones they would be even cheaper. Since money is always a big consideration, I would again suggest going somewhere and bring a partly completed bag with the problem areas and leather straps not completed. Test drive some machines see what will work best. Just my thoughts, kgg

Without seeing your sail totes, have you thought of using a binder attachment with double folded binding material. Maybe using a ripstop type material for the top edge which would give a nice clean edge without the bulk of material that you are folding over. If possible could you post a picture of your bag maybe someone could offer alternative sewing methods that would reduce the amount of material you are trying to sew through which then may affect your machine selection. kgg

I think you made the right choice and should be pleased with it. kgg

What are the perks you are wanting? Personally, if it was me I would narrow down the needs, wants, pros and cons against what you are mostly sewing. You don't want to buy a machine that you are only going to need occasionally. You maybe better off buying a brand name (Juki, Pfaff, Alder) flatbed machine and then later buying a used cylinder, patcher or post bed machine for the occasional usage times or vise versa. It is going to come down to the best machine for most of your sewing needs since one machine will not do everything. Purchasing the Yamata maybe a good clone buy, which is based on the PFAFF 335 design, or you may need to become a sewing machine tech to get it running properly. I have seen clones that will sew a good stitch and others that sounded like a bucket of bolts banging around. For a couple hundred dollar machine I would expect things not to be perfect. Then after I reach a certain dollar point the machine has to sew flawlessly as well as having a fit and finish equally as good right out of the box. kgg

Since you are on the west coast of the US it maybe worthwhile to checkout other clones like Artisan Sewing Machines ( https://www.artisansew.com/cylinderarmandpostbedmachine.html ). Shipping should be less and closer dealer support. Since this is a fine layout of cash, I would advise you to make a road trip with some of your material to dealers on the west coast. Test ride a few machines and see what works best for you and your work ( new or good used, price, flatbed, cylinder bed, clone or brand name (Juki, Pfaff, Alder). Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

For the cost of the Stitch Master at $1500 you have way better options. All the Stitch Master is, is a portable walking foot straight stitch sewing machine that was placed in a table with a servo motor for $1500 US. This is based on the $900 Sailrite LS-1 with max thread of V92 but mounted in a table with the Sailrite servo motor. If you like the Sailrite machines look at the Sailrite Fabricator at $1500. Sailrite machines are build in either Taiwan or China not sure which. My other suggestion in this price range would be a Juki DU -1181N at $1200. If you are handy and want to save a couple of dollars buy a Reliable Barracuda which has straight and zig zag stitching with max thread of V138 for $500 US at your local Home Depot, buy a servo motor and build a table for it. I have owned a Barracuda which I table mounted and have used a Sailrite LSZ, I preferred the Barracuda. The best option in this price range of less then $1500, I think is the Juki DU -1181N walking foot at $1200. If you could move up to the $1800 range then get the Juki DNU-1541S this would get you a compound feed machine. Before you buy go to a brick and mortar and test sew other machines. Remember one thing buy a quality brand sewing machine. BUY ONCE, CRY ONCE. kgg

Gymnast you have caught my attention again. I have a servo motor that came with my Juki and have good slow / fast control but nothing like what you are showing in the video. Could you post a couple of pictures of the motor setup and your peddle setup along with greater detail on your electronic modification. Maybe it could be adapted to provide better control for the industrial machines. kgg

Either the Alder or Juki I think would be great choices both have solid, precision made machines and reputations to match. If it was me with both machines in similar condition and could do what I wanted / needed I would probably choose the Juki 441 for cost and availability of replacement parts as well as accessories like binders / folders etc. Everyone seems to make items based around the Juki machines and copy their sewing machines regardless of class of machine. Another major point for me would be the factory service during the machines warranty period which you stated is available from both Alder and Juki that is just icing on the cake. I would consider either the Alder or the Juki to be like the Snap-On tools. I would buy an older brand name machine (Alder, Juki, Singer, Pfaff ) any day over buying a new clone. Resale value is always going to be a consideration and 5/10/15 years down the road when your needs / wants change either the Alder or Juki will sell faster for more money then a similar class clone. The list of available clones is endless with the quality of some clones being better then others. Will parts even be available for some of the clones in 15 / 20 years down the road, I guess only time will tell. It is sad that there are no North American made machines to choose from in this class of machine. kgg

A cheap walking foot alternative that should be able to handle your thickness of leather maybe a portable walking foot similar to the Reliable Barracuda that can be had for about $500 US new at Home depot. Being nosey but which machine are you discussing? kgg

Looking at your video I am wondering why you have your thread path through all the holes in the pin guide. I think you have threaded the thread pin guide incorrectly. You threaded from your spool of thread through the bottom hole in the thread pin guide up through all the holes too the top then onto the main top thread tensioner. I think the thread pin guide on your machine is the same or similar to the one used in a double needle machine, two threads with one thread pin guide. I think the way you have threaded the thread pin guide has added way to much top tension to your thread causing the thread to fray and break at the thread lever just past the main thread tensioner. I would try threading from your thread spool to the top hole in the thread pin guide and then through one more hole before going to the main thread tensioner. kgg

According to the Toledo Sewing Chart ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) you should be using a size 22 / 140 needle for V138 thread. This may affect the look of the bottom thread and have you adjusted the bobbin thread tension? Uwe posted awhile back to a good link for the Juki LU-1508N user manual if you don't have a copy (Juki LU-1508N Instruction Manual.pdf) look at page 31. A picture showing your thread path from the top thread spool too the tip of the needle would also be helpful, just in case something else can be spotted. kgg

The market for these right now in Canada is depressed and nowhere near the prices that may be gotten in the US. Since you are a fellow Canadian a good place to start would be do a search on kijiji.ca by province for a Singer 29k. In Ontario the price is all over the place from asking $450 CA to $1200 CA ($343 US to $917 US). There is one listed in Manitoba asking $450 CA. I have even seen a couple of the Chinese clone patchers similar to the Techsew 2900 go for around the $500 CA mark over the last six months or so in Ontario. kgg

Having a good dealer of decent machines close to your location is the way to go should you need repairs / support. Let us know what machine you decide on. kgg

As far as warranties they are all over the place for sewing machines in general, domestic or industrial. They generally are ranging from set time warranties, lifetime warranties to limited lifetime warranties and everything in between, you will have to do a bit of research. When you narrow it down to your top couple of picks request detailed warranty information and compare them against one and another. Some things to compare / check: Return policy particularly if you have to have it shipped Return shipping costs Restocking charges Repair labour costs What is not covered under the warranty. kgg

I figure it must be a Zen thing. Since I'm wound a bit too tight at the best of times I would utterly not be coordinated enough to enjoy the full on hand cranking experience. I can see that I would have to sound proof the sewing room from the steady stream of curse words being versed together in a manner longer then the bobbin thread. kgg

Have you decided what you will be making mostly if that happens to be best sewn on a flatbed buy the Juki 1541S if it happens to be a cylinder bed machine machine then go that direction. Depending on your budget another expensive alternative would be also a Juki cylinder machine maybe the LS 1341 or a LS 341. Whatever type of new machine you purchase first you can always buy a good used machine later on for those times you need the other style. There is no one machine that is going to do everything, every machine has it's pro and cons. I am not a fond lover of clones and would purchase a good used Singer, Juki or Alder over a clone any day but each to their own. kgg

All three machines are compound feed machines, great feeding choice. The Techsew 1660 is a Chinese clone costs approximately $1800. The Juki 1541S is made in Japan costs $1800. The Consew 206RB-5 I think is a Chinese clone costs approximately $1400. If dollars are the major factor then I would probably go with the Consew. If you want the best in this class of upholstery sewing machine then go with the Juki. The quality is there right out of the box from fit to finish. A very detailed operating and service manual also comes with the machine which can be very helpful down the road. Since this is a nice layout of cash if possible go see and compare all three machines before purchasing. A lot will also depend on the dealer that you buy from (machine setup, warranty, support, etc.). I do own a Juki 1541S it is accurate (forward or reverse) and it will sew whatever I can force, stuff under the presser foot. Buy Once, Cry Once.

You can set it up using a treadle but like Solarleathermachines said you are going to loss torque and it is going to be a frustrating to say the least. The main reservation I would have is whether or not the treadle frame will take the weight and any side to side movement of the machine. Treadled machines are great for what they were intended for, sewing lighter weight items when and where electricity isn't readily available. kgg