kgg

I agree with Aven. If you know a dog groomer they maybe able to help. I would try a #40 or a #50 blade with a attachable comb sized to the height that you want the length to be. A lot is going to depend on how curly and intermingled it is and how large an area you are trying to cut down evenly. If it is just the edges it shouldn't be too difficult but getting large areas to look good can be a challenge. kgg

I did enjoy your youtube videos. kgg

The problem maybe due to presser foot pressure. The setting to get good presser foot tension on the thick stuff maybe to light when you drop down to 2 layers or the foot is partially resting on the thick stuff while trying to sew the 2 layers. kgg

Let us know if you decide on a machine. kgg

I would suggest taking a visit to a brick and mortar that is fairly close to your location with a sample of what you want to sew. Two places come to mind Artisan Sewing Supplies and Atlas Levy Sewing Machine Company. That way you can test drive a machine, clone or brand name with your stuff, within your budget and with local support. kgg

I think you have topped out your machines sewing abilities. As a possible solution to the bending and braking of needles I would try a large diameter needle by moving up to a size 22 or 23 needle for the extra needle strength and increase the stitch length. If that doesn't work I would probably would look at investing in a different machine. kgg

I have two question:. What is the combined thickness of all the layers of leather that you are trying to sew through What machine are you using? Also I don't see any attached pictures in your post. kgg

I meant to say "about 70 percent used". kgg

I do change thread size (v69/v92/v138), type (bonded polyester/ bonded nylon) spool size (8oz / 1lb.)and most importantly manufacturer (branded/cheap Chinese). I have noticed variations in stitching even with colour changes, white vs black. I have never done an actual bobbin tension measurement but do the bobbin drop test, adjust bobbin tension as needed and do a test stitch when I make a change to size, type, colour, manufacturer or size of spool. I have found that threading a bobbin from a spool getting down close to about 70 percent will have developed spool coil memory or if has been left on the bobbin for an expended period of time the thread will also develop a bobbin coil memory either is a royal pain. kgg

The question I have is what size of thread are you using or planning on using in the new machine. Then decide on what diameter size of cylinder would be best with patcher type machines nose diameter being the smallest. From that the field of machines could be narrowed down. I do agree with dikman that you probably looking at a 335 type machine. Then decide on brand name or clone, new or used. kgg

I am so glad that you found the Singer 29k to be usable and put some enjoyment back in sewing stuff. The only other suggestion I can offer is maybe fitting the Singer 29k pr similar machine with a table top extension similar too something like Harry Rogers shows in his youtube video called "Simple DIY Conversion Singer 29k Patcher Cylinder Arm to Flatbed". kgg

The old ones may have been able to do V138 thread I can't say for sure but it probably changed when production moved to Shanghai, China. Pfaff now is part of VP Worldwide the same ones who now own Singer. When I checked the Pfaff site ( www.pfaff-industrial.com/en/portfolio/sewing-machines/cylinder-arm/pfaff335 ) in the spec section I found that it uses a 134-35 LR needle system with needle sizes from 80 - 100 Nm and thread size of 40/3. Then I went to the Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines thread chart ( www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) which list a 80 needle at V33 and a 100 at V69 . If I am reading the chart right the Pfaff would have to be able to handle a size 140 needle to get to V138. kgg

Typically where I am, Pfaff's are more expensive for parts thus repairs and are not that common while Brother machines / parts are as scarce as hens teeth. The short answer is yes using a speed reducer. The higher wattage motor doesn't relate to speed rather it will have more torque (diesel vs gas engine) thus more punching power for going through thicker items while better maintaining your stitch speed / motor speed which may cause a lesser rated motor to stall while going through the same stuff. kgg

I think the Pfaff limits you to V69 thread with a max foot lift of 14mm while the Juki can go up to V138 with a 16mm lift. For me V69 is usually the top end of domestic sewing machines and the bottom end of industrial sewing machines. Parts and accessories for the Pfaff maybe more expensive / harder to get then the Juki. Since there is no shipping for the Juki I am going to assume Bills is fairly close to your location. If the Juki 1341 is in good condition. and you can find out what parts / adjustments had to be made and Bills can do any future repairs / adjustments I would definitely go with the Juki but I wouldn't consider the Brother. I did notice no tax amount for the Pfaff machines, why? kgg

From the info I have seen Dick McGahen founded the Craftool company in 1947 in South California and later sold too Tandy in 1959 with some Craftool's still being made in the USA until about 1999. After that they are made in Asia somewhere. Maybe not all the stamps are being made in the same factory so that may explain why some are good while others not so much. With the invent of the CNC machines, 3d printers and computer design programs one would think the stamps could / should be of superior quality to the originals. kgg

If you are planning on sewing seal fur in any amount I would check with the Sealers Association as they would be able to put you in contact with someone close to you. That way you could probably visit and get them to show you what machine works best for seal. Seal is one of the best and heaviest furs out there. The hide isn't the problem for sewing its the fur thus the horizontal edge sewing. kgg

The short answer is yes. Most of the Singers 201's you find in North America are the pot mounted gear driven version (201-2). There were other version of the 201 which were hand cranked (201-4) or belt driven motor (201-3). A good location to look at a 201-2 to 201-3 conversion would be ( https://www.flickr.com/photos/kpinkert/sets/72157622825563869/) or search Treadling a Singer 201-2. If you wanted too you could put a servo motor and or a reducer on it. Hope this helps. kgg

As trash treasure has said cutting a table down is not that hard a job with some basic tools. I table mounted / inlaying a Barracuda using an old Singer treadle base, making a 1 1/2 " table top and making an arrangement to utilize the the treadle foot peddle to activate the foot peddle of the Barracuda motor. If you can modify a standard sewing table then I would forget the portable sewing machine and go with a real walking foot industrial machine either new or used. If you are buying new and only need a walking foot I would recommend something similar to the Juki 1181N. If you go with an Chinese clone there are too many options to recommend one or another. Comparing brand name machines with clones on the Rock is probably going to be near impossible. Some clones are good others not so much. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

Haven't see a pair of scissors like that for a long while. I would suggest finding someone with a machine similar to the Twice as Sharp machine that can do multi angles. The steel is going to be hard but when properly sharpened the edge will last a long while. Do not, I repeat, Do Not let anyone use a bench grinder on them. They will ruin them and probably take the temper out of the steel. I had a set of nice $450 scissor for dog grooming which I let some ass try to re-sharpen that I wasn't aware of their sharpening method. Ruined. After that I got my own Twice as Sharp as well a nice 16 inch plate sharpener for clipper blades. Ask a tailor or better ask a high end hair dresser where to send them. It is not uncommon for hair dresser scissors to cost $2-3000 a pair. kgg

The Sailrite Leather/Delicate Foot looks a lot more refined and probably work fine. I look forward to seeing your mods on the feet. kgg

These machines are not the quality you would expect from a Juki so the presser foot can be a bit aggressive with rough/sharp machining. This can lead to hooking, marring or leaving impressions with some materials. So you may have to also play with the amount of tension on the presser foot as well as sand, fill in between teeth or tape over the bottom of the presser foot. The trick is to going to be finding that sweet spot of getting the right amount of downward pressure without damage to the materials surface yet enough to move multi layers of material along. The foot pedal and motor on all the portable sewing machines that I have used act like what you would expect from a domestic sewing machine not that of a servo motor driven machine. The tiny foot speed control pedal is going be a lot more sensitive too downward foot pressure and can be less forgiving. You may have to make a little angled platform to sit the pedal on so you get a more comfortable operating foot position to prevent foot twitch. If you decide on a portable sewing machine keep it well oiled. kgg

Some good options have been suggested by others. From a manual prospective I think you are down to the Cowboy Outlaw, Tippmann Boss , a older Singer 29k with the side crank or a Chinese patcher. kgg

As a note I do have experience with the reliable barracuda and the Sailrite. I found the Barracuda to be a nice capable little machine and if you put the Barracuda alongside the Sailrite with your eyes closed I think would be hard pressed to tell the difference. kgg

If you wish to purchase a portable sewing machine in Canada I think you have three basic options: 1. Reliable Barracuda ( https://reliablecorporation.ca/products/barracuda-200zw-portable-walking-foot-zig-zag-sewing-machine ) at ~ $650 CAD 2. Techsew 611 ( https://www.techsew.com/machinery/industrial-sewing-machines/portable-walking-foot/techsew-611-pro-portable-walking-foot-straight-stitch-zigzag-sewing-machine.html ) at ~$720 CAD 3. Omega WF22ZMW ( https://walking-foot.com/product/omega-wf22zzmw/ ) at ~$475 CAD All appear to be of the same design and features just different names on them. The questions I would check are warranty, if the holes in the bed are tapped for allowing accessories like swing-away binders /folders to be attached and what the max thread can be used. You may find that on any of these machines you are going to probably have too smooth out the presser foot so it doesn't mar your leather. kgg

I use mostly in 1 lb spools Coats Dabond bonded polyester in V69 if I want seams to stand up to heavy bleaching. I also use 1lb spools of American & Efird Anefil bonded nylon in V92 and V138 for extra seam strength for something not going to be greatly exposed to heavy bleaching. I also use some cheap Chinese V69 stuff in 8 oz spools which has much more problems related to spring back particularly in black. kgg