kgg

Pretty good use for the holster since they normally don't carry side arms. kgg

I think this is very ingenious, a true "KISS" solution. Yes, this could be done on a 3d printer or laser but I like the simplicity of your solution. Even through I have multi 3d printers, which I dearly enjoy using, your solution for a one of or so is a good practical low cost solution that anyone could do. Not everyone wants to invest the time, money, effort or can afford the investment into more complicated solutions. kgg

Having insurance is either a waste of money or a savior. If you never have a problem the insurance premiums were like flushing good money down the toilet but God forbid any goes wrong it can save you and your family from being financially ruined. Just like insuring your home you get replacement house / belongings insurance. Hopefully you never need it but if something like a total loss happens you will be covered. That I can speak of from personal experience. kgg

Have you tried stopping the machine so the awl is still buried while the pressor foot is just off the leather. At that point you should be able to turn the leather 90 degrees and continue sewing. kgg

I think this video around the 52 minute mark should help you with moving the hook assembly forward, set screws and timing the "Consew 206RB 5 Maintenance Video Part 1" (youtube.com/watch?v=y4ACNMX65zE). kgg

I looked at your video and agree with Constabulary that the hooks to far away from the scarf. I figure you have either a damaged hook like the tip missing or the rotatory hook assembly moved away from the needle as a result of a needle overload, strike or the abrupt kicking in of the clutch. I would check and see if the hook assembly set screw has become loose on the shaft. I would reposition the hook assembly forward on the shaft and re time. kgg

Yes it could be but I would suspect that since you are having this problem with the bobbin popping out more often that it has more to do with the mechanism that keeps the bobbin case in place is worn or misaligned. I would check out the video on "How to fix a Juki DNU-1541S that is jammed or stuck" ( youtube.com/watch?v=6PGPtkjsqus&t=68s ) even through it is for a Juki it may help you see how the bobbin assembly is kept in place for your machine. Also it could be as simple as when replacing the needle in a hurry it wasn't installed all the in or backwards. Done that a couple times. kgg

I am going to assume you mean the little off colored white felt pad in the thread guide located after the thread take-up arm and just before the needle. A lot of machines have what you call an "oil pad". My opinion is that this felt pad is to maintain correct top thread tension and correct top thread routing while the take-up arm cycles up / down. The top thread is sandwiched behind not through the felt pad and the machines body. It is probably a good place to very lightly lubricate the top thread with a little silicon spray for certain incidents of sewing tough, thick or sticky stuff to help the thread slide through the material easier and reduce heating as well this pad helps remove and small particles of loose thread that maybe on the thread from the manufacturing process. This felt pad is not meant to be a sewing machine oiling station for the top thread under normal sewing conditions. I have never needed to lube this felt pad for my type of sewing on my machines. kgg

The most important thing I find is how close you can get to the needle without having the pressor foot touch and the proper back tension being applied to the binding tape. Personally, I prefer the inline binders over the 90 degree binders which I think has more to do with personal preference rather then performance and of course cost is always a factor. kgg

To you visualize the 1/2" long exit fold that is at 90 degrees to the binder tip and another alternative using a 90 binder mounted to a feed dog cover-plate. The one mounted to the plate hasn't got a 90 exit piece as it can be set really close to the needle. This may give you some idea's. kgg

This is the problem with the style of binder you are using on the flatbed. The 90 degree binder is more suited to the cylinder arm machines. I find using the cheap inline binders much better as you can get the exit part of the binder to just about touching the pressor foot to stop binder tape run away. I even built an adapter for my cylinder bed to accept the inline binders. I'm cheap and why have to styles of binders. An option if you really want to use an 90 degree binder is to find one that has a 1/2" long exit fold that is at 90 degrees to the binder tip. That will allow you to get it closer to the pressor foot. kgg

Depends on a couple of things. If your drive motor is a clutch motor or a servo motor also whether the sewing machine is a upholstery class machine or a 441 class machine. Clutch Motors: i) Are always running at their top speed which is typically either 1725 rpm or 3450 rpm and use a clutch to transfer the power to the drive belt. ii) Have a steep learning curve to get use to feathering the clutch to get the proper sewing speed. iii) Noisy since there is always a humming noise when the motor is powered. iv) Energy inefficient. Servo Motors: i) Only consumes about 75 percent what would be required to power a clutch motor when running. Since the motor isn't consuming energy when not running it probably works out to be closer to 90 percent less energy consumed for the same amount of sewing. ii) More available low end torque. iii) Quiet more like a domestic sewing machine. The noise difference would be like that of standing alongside of gasoline car verse a diesel truck. kgg

I forgot to mention that you need to be care that you do not let you pressor foot ride onto the zippers teeth otherwise use a zipper foot. It will mostly depend on the size of the zipper tape and the size of your pressor foot as well as where you need the seam. kgg

The side pocket zippers seem to be ripple free but the longer top zipper definitely has a pronounced ripple. Is the side material of the zipper cotton or nylon. Are you sewing the sides of the zipper first then installing the slider, please explain your method of installation. My six step method: I usually install buy i) installing the slider on the roll of tape ii) cut more then enough a zipper off the roll so I am then left with a zipper length complete with the slider longer then I need and the zipper teeth are meshed together iii) I then slide the slider to open the zipper up and then back to re-close the zipper iv) I iron the top side of the closed zipper tape to flatten out any inconsistency in the zippers side tapes v) I then use double sided basting tape on one side of the closed zipper tape to hold the zipper in place for sewing vi) I then install double sided basting tape on the other side to line up the closed zipper with the other side of the material. There is probably a better / faster way but it stops me from installing one of the zippers side tapes upside down or miss aligned and it works for me. kgg

These are true tinkers paradise machines. Basic, rough as a gad, cheap, one arm bandit but can get the job done. There is a FB group dedicated to their use and modification which you may find helpful. The needle can be changed to a standard industrial needle system of 135 X 16 for leather or 135 X 17 for fabric really easily. Changing the needle system to either 135 X 16 or 17 will give you better quality options for both the needle and thread size selection. kgg

I think you selected two good brand name choices. I would recommend the Juki over the Alder but get the Juki DNU-1541" S " which has a safety clutch. If I am not mistaken the Alder (made in China) can handle a size 140 (#22) needle good for V138 thread on top and in the bobbin while the Juki (made in Japan) can handle a size 180 (#24) needle which technically is good for V207 but the machine is rated for V138 top and bobbin. My opinion of the Alder's size 140 (#22) needle capacity is it really is the bottom end of using V138 thread and limits the thread size to V92 in thick/tough leather or multi layers of heavy canvas. I prefer the reverse paddle lever of the Juki versus the stitch lever style of the Alder. On this side of the pond Alders parts and accessories tend to be much more expensive and not as abundant as those for the Juki machines. kgg

Another method that may also work, since V69 (TEX 70) has a breaking strength of 10.6 lb and V92 (TEX90) has a breaking strength 14.2 lbs you could try tying a length of thread to 14 lb of weight and see if you can lift it without it breaking. If it breaks it is V69 or smaller and if not it is V92. Just be careful that the thread when it snaps doesn't cause an injury to your eyes, etc. A lot of the sewing thread listed on such places are from a lot of "unknown manufacturers" (probably Chinese) made thread with consistency all over the place. The best thing is buy a brand name thread like say American & Efird (www.amefird.com) which is made in both Canada and the USA. Brand name companies put the engineering and effort in providing quality thread for a wide variety of applications. Brand name thread is labelled just inside the bottom of the spool with information detailing date of manufacture, thread size, type, brand, etc. Yes, they are more expensive but you get what you pay for without the frustration of contenting with lesser quality thread. I do have some of the cheaper stuff but rarely use it, just not worth the effort. kgg

I have not used them myself but they are supposed to better then your regular needles. I do recommend you check out Wawak (www.wawak.com/Sewing/Needles/Industrial-Machine/) for your needles as they usually have really good prices. kgg

No, for leather get DP X 16 (135 x 16) in what ever size you need for your size of thread and get a few one size up for tough thick leather. kgg

If you check your manual the needles you should be using are DP x 17 (135 x 17) for fabric. What you have are DP x 35S (134-35 S) which are not the correct needles for your machine. kgg

I don't know how the shutdowns have affected the tanneries but if it is like a lot of businesses they maybe running low on quality inventory and hoping for customers just to accept anything. I would take some photo's of the problem leathers and email them to the suppliers. I would give them a reasonable amount of time to call / email you to help resolve the problem but I wouldn't accept grade 4- when you expect / pay for grade 1. kgg

A couple of photo's of how you have your machine is threaded from the thread spool to the needle may help in identifying your problem. I think the needle size you are using (#19) is probably the cause of your fraying where the needle isn't creating a hole big enough so the thread is getting ever so slightly caught and not making the correct size loop for the hook to properly catch. I would recommend moving up to a size 22. I am assuming you are using a 135 X 16 needle meant for leather not a 135 X 17 Multi-Purpose Needle. kgg

Sewing through the plastic is also what caused me the most concern. kgg

I would go for a cylinder bed machine as I think it would overall be more versatile then a post bed. I think most post beds would limit your thread size to V92. I would recommend you drop by to a machine vendor with a sample and test drive it on a post bed and a cylinder bed. kgg

To help you visualize the differences of how the Juki 1181N and Juki 1541S handle Light, Medium and Heavy material I here are two links which might help. Also a link that details the difference between the compound feed Juki 1541S and the Juki 1508. i. Juki DU-1181N (walking foot) sewing Light, Medium and Heavy fabric www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKJuKTrjsbw ii. Juki DNU-1541S (compound feed) sewing Light, Medium and Heavy fabric www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JES-2I7h3o iii. Juki DNU-1541S versus Juki LU1508 (both machines are compound feed) www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWvi1wYfc9A kgg