kgg

I would say based on their history of making good machines it would be an excellent machine if you are doing production work and can justify the cost. I follow the "KISS" principal and all the extra computer controlled electronic features are going to be great but repairs down the road that probably will be another story. Since these are pretty complicated machines finding someone to do the repairs and finding the computer controlled electronic parts are not going to be cheap or easy. If I needed a machine with that type of sewing / thread capabilities I would look at a more basic mechanical machine (no electronics) something like the Juki TSC-441U at about 70 percent of the cost of the Alder. kgg

A good start would be a couple of photo's of your thread path from the thread spools to the how you are threading the needles as one needs to be left to right and the other right to left: 1. What size of needle and needle system you are using as it should be a system 126 x 9 or 126 x 3 or 126 x 1 or FO X 3 Singer manual says 126x9 but the others are an equivalent as per ( https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=TTE&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=NDL-SYS-SINGER-01 ) 2. What size of thread are you using. Max needle size is #24 so that would allow up to V138 in thick / tough material and V207 in thin material. 3. How thick of material are you try sew 4. What material are you sewing, Fabric or Leather kgg

I would first suggest if you are buying a new machine and can afford the price difference over a clone buy a brand name like Juki, Alder, PFAFF. A reasonable solution I think would be a Juki LS 1341 as it will probably cover off most of your requirements except for the roller foot. If you need attachments / parts all the clones within this class of machine are based around the Juki. When you decide to sell the machine it will be easier to resell and at a higher price then that of a clone. The PFAFF 335 probably will limit your thread selection to V92. The parts and accessories for the Alder and PFAFF tend to be manufacturer specific and expensive. For speed control whatever machine you decide on, buy it with a servo motor. If the control is still not what you need or like buy the machine with a servo motor and a speed reducer. I would still advise you to visit a dealer with a sample of your stuff and test ride a machine as this is an expensive out lay of cash. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

That's a little bit too harsh for me. I think is has do more with the lack of storage space of returning empty containers before full ones can be released to the truckers for distribution along with having to sort through the various size / type of containers being released then political reasons. kgg

I like Uwe suggestions if you really need to know. If the seam is longer then what your bobbin can do either go down a size or two in thread size or when you run out of bobbin thread restart you seam a few stitches back from where you ran out and sew over the end of the original seam to finish the seam run. kgg

Have they given you instructions on what and how to do the modification? If that modification doesn't work and the parts are damaged what is the next step? kgg

You doing the modification or them? kgg

I would contact them again to see what the next step is. kgg

As these are pretty pricey items why not just return the item and have Weaver correct the problem, replace the item or refund your money? kgg

Another alternative would be the portable walking foot machines that are walking foot machines with zig zag that that a standard 135 x 16 needle like the Sailrite LSZ-1(new $1000 US) or Reliable Barracuda (new $500US) and there are others. kgg

I am not sure if this is going to be the best machine for sail repair as I think it is a drop feed machine. The zig zag is a nice feature for sail repair but I think the Consew 99 is similar to the Singer 20u machines which were good in fabric. kgg

From the information I have seen the needle shank diameter size goes up from 1.63 mm for size #18 needle used for V69 thread changes to 2.00 mm for size #19 needles used for V92 thread and up to size #25 needle when using the DBx1 needle system. To get around shank diameter you need to change to the Groz-Beckert System 1738 A system. What machine are you planning on buying the needles for and for what size thread? kgg

Think of a pair of jeans. The outside seam is Lap Seam (sewn first) and the other seam (inside seam) is just a simple seam sewn with the material inside out. kgg

Another thought would be to construct the sleeve similar to a pant leg where you would do the lap seam first and then the inseam. The down side is that you would have a second seam rather then a cylinder with just the lap seam. The up side is you could use a regular flatbed or cylinder machine with a table top attachment. Just my thought, kgg

I would think you would use an up the arm machine or a patcher. kgg

A consideration to keep in mind is the maximum size needle the machine can handle which in turn will determine the maximum size thread you can use in the machine. The 335 class (Seiko CW's) max out with a #22 (140 metric) needle which will limit you to V92 (Tkt 30) thread. kgg

What machine are you using? Flat felled seam are sometimes referred to as lap seams. A couple of video's for you to look at: 1. No attachment and basic principals : www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1vJzVW2lLk 2. With a Lap Seam Folder on Hightex / Cowboy double needle: www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmxvdtlWdZQ Hope this helps, kgg

To try to cover off most your requirements a cylinder arm is probably your best bet with a table top attachment which you can also purchase aftermarket or do DIY version to suite your needs. Depending on how much you can afford I would suggest either a new or good used Juki LS-1341 or a good used older Juki LS-341. After that most of the clones are copied after the older Juki LS-341 so you can have a wide selection and price range to choose from depending on where you are located. Where are you located maybe someone can direct you to a dealer in your area? Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

Very nicely done. kgg

I am in eastern Ontario and to ship a 1 lb spool of T-135 (V138) Anefil Nylon directly from A&E located in Toronto cost me $8.50 and if order before noon I get it the next day before noon. kgg

Another thread chart would be ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). kgg

The height adjustments for the pressor foot is on the back side of the machine. Check pages 7, 8, 9 and 10 of the 241engineers manual. If the 241 is the same as the 1541 refer to section 7 of the Engineers Manual. Hopes this helps. kgg DNU-214H-5-2B Engineer.pdf JUKI_DNU-1541-S-7EM01_SERVICE_MANUAL.pdf

Yes you can get them to sew but that can be a frustrating process for some people. I do have one and they are a true tinkers delight providing hours of entertainment. The quality of fit and finish to say the least is generally poor at best. They do have their place but the quality is nowhere comparable to that of a old Singer 29K or a new clone patcher. There is a fair number of mods that will be needed to make constant decent stitches such as resetting the height of the needle to accept 135 x 16 needles, polishing / replacing the pressor foot to reduce marks, polishing parts to get it to run sort of smoothly and retiming are just a few. If this is all someone can afford and has the time to invest it maybe a starting point until they could afford something better. If someone could stretch their budget to $565 US maybe what Walmart is selling which appears to be a clone of Singer 29k72 ( https://www.walmart.com/ip/TFCFL-Hand-Crank-Patch-Leather-Sewing-Machine-Cobbler-Shoe-Sewing-Repair-Machine/975331286?athbdg=L1700 ) or in Canada for $769 CA ( https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/INTBUYING-Leather-Sewing-Machine-Sewing-Mending-Machine-Shoe-Repair-Industrial-without-Table-Motor/PRD442E8MWFN5KN ). I think better options out there in the new machine market for about the $500 US price range for a first new machine. kgg

Wishing the same to everyone. Enjoy, Relax and Stay Safe. kgg

I think you have two options: 1. Bring the cutouts to a leather shop that has a leather splitter and have them reduce the thickness for you at a fee. 2. Buy a leather splitter, new or used, something similar to a Cowboy 8020 (new for approximately $2900 US plus plus) or Cobra Class 14 Leather Splitter (new for approximately $3000 US plus plus). This maybe an option if you plan doing a lot but will involve a learning curve. kgg