kgg

I think maybe you could / should start a new topic related to your machine. Add detailed photos of your thread path from the spool to the needle, what the stitching looks like and list what needle (type and size) you are using. That way those of us with a Juki 1541S maybe able to guide you through setting the machine up so it sews properly. Who knows what was done before you got your hands on it. To answer your question the Juki 1541S will sew a very nice consistent stitch forwards as well as backwards in the same holes. My experience with bird nesting is that it has more to do with bobbin thread tension issues then top thread tension as long as all the tensioner parts are there. A lot of times it is as simple as the bobbin was been place in the bobbin holder incorrectly so the bobbin thread is unwinding in the wrong direction. Done that more then once when I was in a rush or not paying attention. The needle size should be a 135x 16 for leather or 135x17 for fabric and according to the Toledo Sewing Chart ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) you should be using a size 22 / 140 needle for V138 thread. kgg

Good for you, we all need time to do other things whether it's just chillin or working hard at a hobby. After I retired from the engineering gig I open up something that has always been my passion. I have set hours and don't dare darken my driveway before or after those hours or expect to be invited to leave. Have had people show up on Christmas day during the main meal. What a lot of people don't realize or care about particularly this age of order today here tomorrow is small business owners are not Walmart or Amazon and have / need a life too. kgg

I agree. Laws are different and can be applied differently from one country to another. Like in Canada you can record your own conversations with others without them knowing as long as you give yourself consent to recording it but it is illegal to record conversations between other people where you are not part of the conversation. Fine lines and how a court would apply could be quite different. Hope this gets resolved fairly and quickly. kgg

As machinehead noted and directed the search towards. What I found was it is probably a The Ross, Moyer Manufacturing Co. machine from the 1870's that came in three sizes A,B,C for light Vamping (Shoe work) to Harnesses, Collars, Trunk Handles https://books.google.ca/books?id=Y_c-AQAAMAAJ&pg=PA183&lpg=PA183&dq=new+england+wax+thread+machine?&source=bl&ots=R6UtQCmDj1&sig=ACfU3U3lfXc7S29kw7341zNuDd9wooouvQ&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwig37iWvODjAhWum-AKHZ1BAMsQ6AEwDnoECGMQAQ#v=onepage&q=new england wax thread machine%3F&f=false Chances are that the one you have is for the heavier work from the 1870's. Notice the predecessor to the patcher machines on the bottom of the page called " Alligator or Arm machine". That's the era they made heavy iron. kgg

The OP wanted and bought what she thought was a genuine PFAFF. Otherwise she would probably have bought a Clone for probably less money. I hope this comes a good resolution. Makes us all aware of what to look for in general when purchasing a machine, new or used. The Clone casing is a pretty good exterior representation of the original machine which is probably made for several different Clone suppliers under different badges. kgg

I guess that would leave just the one arm bandits like the Tippmann Boss and Cowboy Outlaw. Still will need a good size bench or table to bolt them too. In working condition for that price is going to be a task in it's self. What are you trying to sew that will require the strength of V207? For what you have listed V138 should be good enough. If you can drop down to V138 need to keep your machine footprint small maybe look at the portable walking foot machines like the Reliable Barracude 200ZW ($500 US at Home depot). The spec can be found at https://reliablecorporation.ca/products/barracuda-200zw-portable-walking-foot-zig-zag-sewing-machine .This one can handle V138 not sure about the Techsew 611 or the Sailrite LS. kgg

That is what I would do and bring some of what you want to sew along. They may have other machines (new /used) that may serve your present / future needs better once you test sew on them. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

Thanks koreric75. kgg

From what I read online PFAFF are now owned by SVP Worldwide, a Kohlberg Holding company with their machines now being made in Asian countries. Quality will depend I guess on the actual manufacturer, only time will tell. However the cost between a PFFAF badged and others I would suspect to be fairly substantial (machine/parts/accessories). kgg

Have you checked this topic on the forum from 2016? " Zero-Max e1 Adjustable Drive (Speed Reducer) Any Info? " It my affect whether you attempt to install it. kgg

I totally agree. For the rest of us could you post a couple of pictures highlighting what you are seeing. It could be of great value for anyone in the market for a similar machine. The deception my go even deeper. The reseller my have been also duped. If a clone sells for $100 and a brand name sells for $300 some not so good people will try to dupe people. kgg

Believe me I have tried. Not that the hands are that big per say but thick fingers. A couple of years ago I had a Singer featherweight too see what all the fuss was about the featherweights. Nasty little machine. To get the bobbin in it was easier to flip it over with the front folded up and with a old VS machine had to use large twisters to get the long bobbin in. I think their isn't enough rubber for flexibility in the soles anymore like there use to be. If you have a good pair of work boots and can find someone to make soles from an old car tire they will outlast the uppers. Finding someone able and willing to cut soles with the heavy iron to sew them on maybe a problem. kgg

I have a 1541S and hate trying to change the bobbin from underneath. My fingers / hand are to large to get the darn thing in properly, so for me I just remove the knee lift and tilt the machine back. I need the extra hand space and I can see that the bobbin / case are seated properly. My 1541S will handle V138 top and bottom but prefers either V69 top / bottom or V92 top / bottom which are both within the sweet spot. I have also used on occasion with no problems V92 top with V69 bottom and V69 top with V92 bottom. Why, just to lazy to change the bobbin out. I haven't had the need really to spend the time to tweak the machine for V138 as for my stuff either V69 or V92 works. I have even tried V46 which is the bottom end thread size for both the 1541S and the 1508n. Yes V46 will work but it posed just as many problems, just different, as when using the V138. I cann't really think of a good reason why someone would try to use V46 thread with the aggressiveness of these machines feeding systems. kgg

I think the Juki LU-1508NS is a more sturdier built machine then the Juki DNU-1541S made for heavier needs. When I was looking for a new machine what I found when comparing the machines the differences to be were: Cost: Juki DNU-1541S ~ $1800 US vs Juki LU-1508NS ~$2600 US The Juki DNU-1541S is lighter built machine and weights in at over 13 lbs lighter (80.5 lb vs 93.7 lb) then the Juki LU-1508NS. Both look almost identical except the the bed size of the Juki DNU-1541S is 1.6 inches smaller then the Juki LU-1508NS, (477x178mm vs 517mmx178mm) Both have the same max thread size of V138. If you need / like to go to V207 you have to move up to the Juki LU-1509n Both use the same needle system 135x16/17 and both have the same max stitch length of 9mm forward / reverse The Juki 1541 S has a lower presser foot lift by knee 16 vs 18mm then the Juki LU-1508NS The Juki 1541 S has a horizontal axis hook assembly vs the vertical of the Juki LU-1508NS The Juki 1541 S has a greater needle distance to machine arm of 264mm vs 255mm of the Juki LU-1508NS The Juki 1541 S has a smaller needle bar stroke of 36mm vs 38mm of the Juki LU-1508NS The Juki 1541 S has a shorter amount of altering vertical movement of 2.5~6.5mm vs 2.5~8.5mm of the Juki LU-1508NS kgg

Ron, I do praise you on stepping up and helping Jason resolve the table leg problem. kgg

No, I think a decent new walking foot machine like the Juki DU-1181n ($1200) or one of the equivalent clone machines should be able to handle what you would like to do. A new portable walking foot sewing machine ($500 -$1500) like those of Reliable, Techsew and Sailrite to name a few would probably do for a low volume need. If you want to move up to the $1800 range for a compound feed machine you would be looking at something similar to the Juki 1541S or for less money you could go with one of the equivalent clone machine. kgg

Wiz has picked up on the thread size you plan on using. Why do you need such heavy thread, is it just for looks on your projects. You are going to need heavy iron to punch through with those large diameter needles that will be needed for those size threads. kgg

I guess your next step is to setup and thread the machine to do a test run, if you think the table is sturdy enough with those damaged legs. The machine probably won't be whisper quite but neither should it sound like a bucket of bolts banging around. kgg

That is good news. I would seal the top in that location to prevent any further damage from concurring in the future. I think the little chip is from the manufacturing process not damage and the hole probably as well. So far, except for the legs, seems good.

It might have not been the delivery shippers who done the damage. The damage could have occurred before it got in the hands of the shipping company who then delivered it to you. But who caused the damage doesn't really matter Techsew should suck it up and step up to the plate to do the right thing. Techsew is Montreal which is located in the province of Quebec. Looking at your latest photos of the table frame, I wouldn't put the machine on it. The cheap table has had it's major support parts and welds over stressed to the point of buckling and possible risk of failure. Does your table top show any signs of hair line cracks, surface bubbling / lifting away from the wood particularly around the outside edges? Return the whole works and buy from someone else. kgg

I agree, do a chargeback. From what you are finding you need a whole new table frame and none of my tables ever have rocked as you describe. Tables should be rock solid after being levelled which you probably are going to have difficulty doing and capable of handling any side movements for that machine. kgg

The big and main question is who in the hell packs stuff on the underside of a pallete, your just asking for damage. What a half ass shipping technique that someone doesn't want to owe up too. In this case I think it was probably Techsew who packed the item to be shipped not UPS who may reject based on that. It really shouldn't matter who packed it Techsew should replace the damaged part if for no other reason then good customer service / retention. The leg piece was hit pretty hard to do that amount of damage. It would would worry me at lot particularly after spending that amount of cash. Their customer enticement, customer retention or customer service dosen't seem to be their strongest attribute. If it was me I would go over every inch of everything (machine head, table frame and top, motor as well as the packing box for the machine head) for signs of damage / fractures, no matter how small. Making sure particularly their are no hair line fractures/ misalignment's to the machine head with such a hard hit. Should be a lessen to anyone else who is thinking about buying a Chinese clone machine maybe they should checkout Chinese Clone resellers closer to home. There are a lot of resellers across Canada and the USA selling the same / similar stuff, probably out of the same Chinese factories, just with a different brand label slapped on the machine head. kgg

Sounds like you got the party line in hopes you will go away. You didn't hire the shipper Techsew did they are responsible to make the claim to the shipper and get you a replacement part in a timely manner so you can put the darn thing together and see if works. All the parts need to be in a serviceable condition. If you had bought it through Amazon you could probably have returned the hold thing with no questions and no re-stocking charge. Cann't imagine the problem you are probably going to have if the machine gives problems or has operating flaws. I would also check and see if you got proof the machine had been sewn off before being shipped and whether the user manual is written in some sort of coherent English. kgg

Simply stuff first: Replace the needle, maybe a bad needle, a dull needle or bent needle. Select a correct size of needle for the size of thread you are using and the material type. I replace my needles after every 8 - 10 hours of use whether it needs it or not. A good reference for thread to needle size would be https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Change the spool of thread with a fresh one or one from another of your other machines that is having no problems maybe a bad spool of thread. If using bonded nylon try bonded polyester or vise versa. Change bobbin and re-thread with fresh thread probably one from another of your other machines that is having no problems. Check and re-tension both top and bottom threads and making sure the top thread path didn't get mixed up by accident. If the problem goes away great if not then check the timing and the hook assembly for wear and old thread caught under or around it. kgg

If the bobbin tension is too slack, the thread may unwind extra thread from the bobbin that would cause a buildup of thread underneath the needle plate. If the bobbin has the right amount of tension for the size of thread I think you will find either not enough top thread tension maybe the thread is not sitting between the tension discs or an incorrect thread path to the needle from the spool. A couple of more pictures of your thread path from the thread spool to the needle maybe be helpful. kgg