kgg

The Atlas AT335 ($1495) is a class 335 cylinder bed Chinese clone machine which is going to limited you to V92 as a maximum thread size while the Cobra Class 26 ($2255) which I think is a Class 341 machine with a maximum thread size of V207. Most any cylinder bed machine can accept binder/ folder attachments if you need / want them. Based on your photo's of your trouble projects I would firstly recommend a flatbed triple feed (needle, feed dog, pressor foot) over a cylinder machine in the upholstery class of machines like a Juki DNU-1541S ($1500 US). The price of binders and folders for the flatbeds are considerably cheaper ($15 versus $100) and easier to install. If you don't need a triple feed I would recommend a Juki DU-1181N ($1400 US) which is just a walking foot (feed dog and pressor foot). My main machines are: i) Juki DU-1181N (Walking Foot) which is used mainly for thinner fabrics and binding. Mostly using V92 but have used V138 on top and in the bobbin. I just completed a nice little kneeling pad (42"x 3.5" x 16") with this machine using 21 oz cotton canvas with military lapped seams and double reinforced corners using 21 oz natural canvas. ii) Juki DNU-1541S (Triple Feed) which is used mainly for thicker items like double 3/4" hard back Sherpa. Mostly using V92 and V138 on top and in the bobbin. It hates thin stuff and has to be dumbed down to do them properly. The 1181N excels at the thinner stuff that the 1541S hates. iii) Kobe LS-1341 (Triple Feed clone of the Juki LS -341) which is used mainly for thicker items with curved or round surfaces and binding. Mostly using V138 on top and in the bobbin. Keep in mind there is no ONE machine that will do everything. I would recommend you buy a brand name machine and that you take a sample of your materials or projects to a dealer and test drive a few different machines. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

The needle specification for the Juki's needle size is the guaranteed rated needle size that will work for both top and bobbin thread size. Some people like one manufacturer of needles over another. My choice is the SCHMETZ brand. The nm 125 (#20) is for V92 thread in both the top and bobbin while the NM180 (#24) is for V138 thread in both the top and bobbin. Even through the NM180 (#24) can accept V207 thread. It appears Juki has allowed for going up one needle size to accommodate using V138 in thick, tough leather so to give the V138 thread enough head clearance at the hook. Some clone machines will say they can accept V207 but may not accept V207 in the bobbin which is something to check. On the lower end the Juki probably will accept a needle slightly smaller but the head clearance at the hook will probably be to great and may not consistently pickup the top thread to form a stitch and end up with no or skipped stitches. Since the Juki 1508 is made for thick heavy sewing to get it dumbed down for material that would normally require V46 or V69 thread maybe a bit off a challenge. If you are only needing to use V46 or V69 thread I would recommend you look at a Juki 1541S that has a rated thread usage of V46 to V138. With my 1541S it really doesn't like thin material and has to be dumbed down so I would imagine the 1508 would be the same or worse. If all you need is a walking foot the Juki 1181N rated at V46 to V92 maybe a option.I have used V138 top and bobbin with no problems in my Juki 1181N. kgg

For leather you will need use 135x16 needles for the size of thread you are using. Depending on the thickness and toughness of the leather as well as the type/size of thread you may have to go up a needle size. I am not sure about the sizes available for the Groz-Beckert needles but would assume you can get them up size 24 as I use Schmetz needles. I would recommend Schmetz Diamond Point Straight Stitch Industrial Machine Needles - 135x16 (www.wawak.com/Sewing/Needles/Industrial-Machine/schmetz-diamond-point-straight-stitch-industrial-machine-needles-135x16-10pack/?sku=SMND135118 ). You maybe able to use your 135X 17 needles with the leather but 135 X 16 would be recommended. Example: i) V92 thread use a number 20 needle may have to go to a 21 ii) V138 thread use a number 22 needle may have to go to a 23

On a range (indoors or outdoors) you don't want to see someone carrying a handgun in their hand that maybe readied ((loaded and safety off) or someone stuffing a readied down their pants pocket (might discard and wind up with a DSO). kgg

I agree that the days of open carry have long passed but holsters are still a saleable item in Canada as you need to have one to properly contain your gun on any firing range. kgg

Glad you got the noise problem under control. Neighbors come in a types, some good, some bad. I pity people living in such close quarters.Glad I don't have that problem as my closest neighbor in any direction is about a mile away. Real social distancing. kgg

Sailrite are generally expensive but have a good service reputation. This looks like their LS-1 painted green portable walking foot sewing machine placed in a table with a decent servo motor. The maximum thread size it can handle is V92. If I'm not mistaken they were once sold through Tandy stores. These portable machines were designed for sewing sail material not leather. Most portable walking foot sewing machines have very aggressive teeth on their feed dog and pressor foot and have a tendency to leave marks. For about the same money if all you need is a walking foot (feed dog, pressor foot) you could get a Juki DU-1181N ( max thread of V138) for about the same price. Personally I would look at a triple feed machine where material is feed through by the feed dog, the needle and the pressor foot. I would recommend you look at upholstery class machines like the Juki DNU-1541S ( max thread of V138) for about $1800 or a clone triple feed maybe like a Consew 206RB-5 for about $1500. Also I would recommend you visit a vendor and test drive a couple of machines with a sample of the materials and the thread you are planning on using. Just like cars there is also the used machine market where you can buy a good used machine at a reduced price. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

I don't know what sewing machines are available to you in Slovenia and am going to assume you are needing a cylinder bed machine. I would think you are going to be looking at cylinder bed machines above the Juki LS -1341(V69-V138) like the Juki TSH-441model (V346 and above) and clones. It will also depend a lot on what thread size you are planning on using not just the thickness it can sew. As far as being portable machines that are capable of sewing what you want is probably not going to happen. These machines are going to weight much more then the 9.5 kg (21lbs) Tippmann Boss you are use to lifting around. Expect the machine heads to be in excess of 37 kg ( 81lbs ) for 1341 class machines and 56 kg( 123lbs ) for 441 class machines. Also these machines are expensive (3 plus times the cost) of your Tippmann Boss). Another option in the one armed bandits maybe a Weaver Cub ($1650 US). I have never used either the Tippmann Boss or the Weaver Cub myself but I would suspect the Weaver Cub to be quieter as it uses a wheel to cycle the needle versus a lever action. kgg

Any chance of providing some extra photo's showing how you have threaded the machine from the top thread spool to the needle, machine name and model number. kgg

To get a good answer could you give a get a photo from the front and what the stamped information says (numbers and manufacturer info) . The stamped info then can be tracked back to the manufacturer and it's intended propose. The attachment appears to be made by Tennessee Attachment Company (tennattachment.com). The machine appears to have had the original pressor foot removed, possibly the feed dog changed and the bottom thread guide and screw located just before the needle appears to have been replaced with a make shift guide arrangement. kgg

That just cracks me up. I needed a good laugh. kgg

As Wiz said it is a Singer 29k72 clone. The AXIS brand appears to be Tomsewing (www.tomsewing.com) which is Liya international Group (http://www.liyainternational.com) house brand who mostly deal in used sewing equipment out of China. These machines can also be found on Ebay. Good, bad or indifferent who knows but I would expect little after sales support. kgg

I am not a fan of the Chinese 3d printers but it looks like the Ender finally found something it can do reasonably well. kgg

What are you planning on sewing? kgg

If you go to the Landis site ( http://landisinternational.ca ) you maybe able to find some close matches. The important point is what are you planning on sewing and with what thread sizes. Then look at machines which will be able to handle those projects. From looking at the other ads the owner has up they may have been used in a shoe repair shop environment. Looking at the condition of the machines my thoughts are : i) The post bed looks like it has seen better days as it appears to have been stored for some time, rusted parts maybe present. ii) The Singer appears to be maybe a model 17-41? and parts like shuttles maybe hard to find and limited to V92 thread. iii)The flatbed seems like some form of a Seiko STH-8BL or similar and appears to be in good cosmetic shape and probably able to handle V138. iv) All three machines have clutch motors which you should replace with servo motors for many reasons. If any of these machines meets your needs go take a look and see if they will sew your stuff with the thread size you want to use. kgg

The in the catalogue photos there are two major differences from my Juki DN1541S other then the accessories I installed for my needs. i) the bobbin on mine is accessed by sliding the bobbin access plate to the left and sliding the bobbin horizontally in the bobbin case vs the double plate in the above catalogue photos where the bobbin is in the vertical position like the 1508 or the older 563. ii) the top thread tension assembly in the above catalogue photos is a multi tensioner system found on the 1508 versus the single tensioner system on my Juki DNU-1541S kgg

They don't look like my Juki DNU-1541S. kgg

The thread sizes you are using if my conversion is correct are: Belts: thread size 15/3 or even 10/3 if possible These Tkt numbers converted to the "V" size would be V 207 for 15/3 and V 277 for 10/3. Bags: with thread size 20/3 This Tkt number converted to the "V" size would be V 138. Wallets: with thread size 30/3 or even 40 These Tkt numbers converted to the "V" size would be V 92 for 30/3 and V 69 for 40. Personally I would probably look for a heavier duty machine then the DNU-1541/X55245 machine if most of your work involves using Tkt 10/3 ( V277) thread top and bottom. You maybe need to look at having two machines, one for the Tkt 10/3 ( V277) projects and one for the rest. kgg

To get nice stitches particularly with the Sunbrella material which will depend on the denier, you will need at least 3 layers or more. I found it acted more like ripstop from a sewing perspective and getting the bottom stitch up into the material can be a chore. kgg

This maybe as simple as the nut on the tension disc is screwed in tight so the coiled tension spring is putting to much force on the discs. Try backing the nut off and see if the discs become slack when the pressor foot is locked in the up position. They could also be seized together from lack of use. It maybe that the rod that pushes the apart is damaged or worn out. A photo of the tensioner may also help. kgg

I looked at your photo's and I would suggest a couple of things to try that may or may not work. i) remove thread from your needle back to the vertical guide just before the tensioning discs. ii) lock the pressor foot in upper position and retread. This will release tension on the two discs. The discs now should be slack and movable. Rethread as you did before. Now you will assured the thread is in as far as it can go between the tensioner discs as possible. iii) when you have threaded the needle unlock the pressor foot from the up position. Test drive and see if that makes a difference. If not the discs may have a thread path worn in them. So I would turn the very first guide from the vertical position to a horizontal position and thread like a Juki 1541 which has the first guide in the horizontal position. This would change the position of the thread through the discs. kgg

The one arm bandits have their place but as some of us become a little older with a few more physical limitations motorized equipment offers a much more enjoyable solution. You didn't mention what type of things you are presently hand sewing now or want to sew. With that info someone can offer viable motorized solutions as to machines and accessories, new and used as well as brand name or clone machines. A motorized machine will definitely take the stress and strain off your dominate hand. kgg

Maybe to help reduce your time in creating stitching holes if you modified a multi hole Stitching Chisel to fit in the chuck of a drill press. Then just use the lever to press the Stitching Chisel down through the leather that way every hole would be identically spaced. By the way I do like the snake skin insert.

Yes. That is the correct location for the vertical guide pin. Your main thread has to be threaded through this before going to the horizontal guide that is located just above the bobbin winder. I would recommend you have your top thread come from the top arm of the spool stand for your top thread directly vertical pin. When threading this vertical pin with your top thread it will cross over the large round dial for adjusting the amount of lift for the pressor foot and walking foot. So that the top thread doesn't touch the top of the dial you thread this pin by going into the bottom hole first and out of the top hole. The hole in the top arm of the spool holder for guiding your top thread ideally will be as close to being horizontally level and create a straight line from the horizontal guide to the top arm guide hole.This may pose a problem with the type of spool holder you are using. So you can wind a bobbin while happily sewing along you could replace the 2 hole pin with a 4 hole vertical pin or do something similar to my solution or just have your bobbin thread come directly from the top arm guide hole directly into the bobbin thread guide. My take on this is that it holds the top thread for a split second acting as a damper so the thread doesn't go slack or to tight in the cycling of the top thread arm and reduce unwanted thread movement at the needle. Some other machines don't use this at all while others particularly in the 341 class use a felt pad inserted in the guide just below the take up level to achieve the dampening effect. The spring loaded flat piece system is also used with some 2 needle systems to help keep the two threads separated during the sewing cycle with one thread being on each side of the screw. I have used my 1541S both with and without the flat wiper. I found not much if any benefit when using V69 or V92 but a difference with black V138. Just my two cents worth kgg

Yes, looking at the video your thread is being snagged. This is one of the reasons why I do not use the cheap spool tree that seems to come with all new machines these days. I noticed you don't have the vertical guide pin installed between the horizontal guide just above the bobbin winder and the thread spool stand which may contribute to the problem as the thread entry angle is to steep. The vertical pin helps maintain a slight thread tension from the spool. I would suggest: i) install the vertical thread guide ii) lower the thread spool holder down to as low as you can so it basically on the top of the table iii) readjust the top thread guide arm down which will help reduce the angle iv) check the spool of thread for a manufacturing defect in how the thread was wound onto that spool or a thread defect. It maybe just simpler to replace it with the other spool of thread and see if it occurs on that spool of thread as well. What I do is try and get the thread to make as straight a horizontal line ( Photo K-3 ) as possible between the horizontal guide which on the 1541S is just above the bobbin winder, the first vertical thread post pin (which your machine doesn't have installed) and the thread guide hole just above the spools. Keeping a straight line means the thread spool is moved to the far right rear corner of the table. The purple thing in my photo (K-3) is a thread guide that just slips over the original vertical pin and is just used as a simple guide for the bobbin thread. The less angles either horizontally or vertically the thread has to make before the horizontal guide (which on the 1541S is just above the bobbin winder) gives a more constant top thread tension. I don't use the thread spool stands that came with my machines, don't even take them out of the packaging, they all pose more problems then they are worth. I didn't have a good photo of the spool stand on my 1541S so Photo K19 is a thread spool stand on a Kobe 1341 which maintains this straight horizontal thread path. kgg