kgg

First I have to say I love my 3d printers and put a lot of hours / filament through them. They can do some amazing stuff and are great for inexpensive prototyping / small scale runs. Yes you can purchase Chinese 3d printers for under $400 but i) not everyone can quickly learn or has the want to learn a CAD/ Slicer program irregardless of the 3d printer cost ii) the life expectancy of the inexpensive 3d printers before having a rebuild or replacement is very low when compared to the more expensive reliable 3d printers ( plus $1500) and iii) sometimes it is just simpler and faster to use basic materials and tools for simple items. For me it would be quicker to take a common material like wood or HDPE and some basic carpentry tools to make a flat template as compared to 3d printing the same template. kgg

The best material I can suggest that you could use basic cutting tools like a saw/ drill /sander would be HDPE (High Density Poly Ethylene) in at least 1/4 ", it cuts just like wood and you can sand the edges like wood. Any smaller then 1/4" thick and you will get warping. It is available in sizes up to 4 ft x 8 ft in various thickness.

Maybe try Aaron Martin Harness Ltd. ( aaronmartin.com ) located at 4445 Posey Line RR#1, Wallenstein, ON N0B 2S0, Canada. I have bought some rivets from them and the price was reasonable with quick shipping. kgg

There isn't really enough detail in your photo's to determine if the left and right sides of the zipper are correctly installed. The following video may help you to determine this. The video outlines in good detail a metal zipper, the teeth, the direction of the teeth and how the two sides should mesh together with the slider. Hope this helps, kgg

This is for general info mainly for Canadians like myself looking to buy 135x16 or 17 needles. Finding needles at a good price in Ontario and probably the rest of Canada can be a chore either in pricing, duties or shipping time. I had to buy some needles this week as I was down to a couple of size #23 needles. Another member I was emailing with suggested a company called Wawak (wawak.com) which I never had heard of. They carry four brands of needles but I only use the Schmetz brand of needles in my machines and I usually get a pretty good price from a Canadian supplier. To get 100 Schmetz needles of 135x 17 in size 22 and 23 it would have been approximately $140 CAD with shipping and taxes. When I phone, toll free, Wawak I could get 100 Schmetz needles of 135x 17 in size 22 and 24 as well as 200 needles in size 23 needles for approximately $128 CAD with taxes and shipping was free. Works out to $0.32 CAD per needle vs $0.70 CAD. I placed the order with Wawk on Monday afternoon and received the order by UPS today before noon. I am impressed with their shipping as the package came directly from Conklin, NY USA. So I figured I would pass on the info for future reference. kgg

My machine which was sold and paid for 6 months ago, just waiting for the new owner to pick it up: i) like yours doesn't have reverse, ii) has a small bobbin, iii) had difficult time handling multiple layers iv) has a clutch motor, v) very lightly built, head weights less then my small flatbed Juki DU-1181N. kgg

Nice set of tools. kgg

I have one identical to yours delegated to the basement awaiting it's new owner to come and pick it up (6 months). I should charge a storage fee. The manual in pdf format on the Superior sewing machine site is for the 223 that you have and is a very clear copy of the manual which you may find it helpful. ( https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=consew+223+operating+manual ). I would flood the machine with oil ensuring every part is well oiled and to help flush any old gunk out but have old cloths to catch the oily mess and then roll it over slowly by hand before doing it under power. kgg

The asking price for the Singer 29k's in general have increased in Ontario over the last year. Looking at the photo's, to me it looks like it was rode hard and put away wet. I won't spend anywhere close to the asking price and would consider it a project machine. The true test will be to see if it will stitch and knowing that if it needs repairs those parts maybe hard to come by, expense or for certain parts just unavailable. Overall I would have a tenancy to pass on the machine unless you get really cheap and continue to search for a newer model like a Singer 29k-70's machine that parts are more readily available for. If you need a 29k style patcher and don't want to spend the $2500 plus for a new clone from a dealer I would have a tendency to look at places down your way like ASC365.com knowing you will probably get no support for around $1100 (asc365.com/newproductdetail.asp?productid=188073&typeid=1847 ). As a note I don't know anything about Asc365 or any of their equipment they sell. Best of luck, kgg

NO. From Sunny Sewing Machine website ( sunnysewingmachine.com/index.php/view-all-machines/18-walking-foot-sewing-machines/798-typical-gc0605a-single-needle-walking-foot-w-safety-clutch-sewing-machine ) they consider it to be " Similar to Juki DNU-1541S " in other words it is Juki clone and is well below a 441 Class machine. I would consider the Juki DNU-1541S a excellent entry level upholstery class machine. A similar setup with table and servo motor would cost about $1800 US for a Juki DNU-1541S but I didn't notice a price for the clone. kgg

I think bigsig may have meant to type TYPICAL GC-0605A???? kgg

The thread size 30 / 3 is shorthand for 30 / 1x3 which is the same size as V92, Tex 90, Tkt 30 thread. It is constructed with 3 plies twisted together. kgg

I would definitely be interested in learning what the source of the problem is. kgg

My two cents worth: 1. The needle Organ RTW 21 is too small for V138, I suggest you use a #23 or #24 needle. 2. The link ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIKml4yGLSc ) is not for the Kobe 1341 but it has a similar top thread tensioner system. It is one of the better ones as far as detail goes and if you follow the way it is done you shouldn't have any other top tension problems. The video shows the top thread going over the small post located on the right side of the discs of the top thread tensioner unit. That point of having your top thread go over the post before going to the take-up spring disc has been a topic of much contention. I happen to fall into the category of believing it should go over the post. My reasoning is i) if the thread will not go over the post and sit properly behind the post the thread size is to large for that machine. ii) provides more surface contact area of the top thread between the two tensioner discs. I have done it both ways on my machines with one being a Kobe LS-1341and find I get more consistent tension but that just maybe me and the sizes/type of thread I use. 3. Once you get the thread path and tension settled out you should never have to manually thread the top thread of your machine again when changing size or spools of thread. i) Cut the old thread just above the top of the old spool and tie the new thread to the old thread that is still threaded properly through to the needle, ii) Lift and lock the pressor foot in the up position iii) Pull the old thread out of the eye of the needle and pull on the old top thread which will pull the new thread through. iv) Cut the top thread above the knot of old and new thread v) Thread the new thread through the needle. Best of Luck, kgg

Looking at how the needle box has " X " printed the letter stamped in the needle looks like the same old style typeface set so it may very well be "X Y " or "X V" not "K Y" . kgg

If the machine is going to used for industrial rather then hobby needs why not seriously look at a true Juki 441, yes the cost is going to be much higher but.. kgg

The Chinese patcher's can be converted to a more standard 135x16 needle series fairly easily by adjusting the needle bar up about 4mm and opening up the bobbin cover plate hole slightly to allow for the larger needle diameter. The bobbin size is it's main downfall from a sewing prospective. The bobbin is really small which means less available bobbin thread thus shorter seam lengths before having to do bobbin changes. kgg

Even through you may have sorted the problem out I figure you may want to look at a video of how to thread your machine. The link ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIKml4yGLSc ) is not for your machine but it has a similar top top thread tensioner system. It is one of the better ones as far as detail goes and if you follow the way it is done you shouldn't have any other top tension problems else you may have a worn out / damaged top tensioner on your machine. The video shows the top thread going over the small post located on the right side of the discs of the top thread tensioner unit. That point of having your top thread go over the post before going to the take-up spring disc has been a topic of much contention. I happen to fall into the category of believing it should go over the post. My reasoning is i) if the thread will not go over the post and sit properly behind the post the thread size is to large for that machine. ii) provides more surface contact area of the top thread between the two tensioner discs. I have done it both ways on my machines and find I get more consistent tension but that just maybe me and the sizes/type of thread I use. Once you get the thread path and tension settled out you should never have to manually thread your machine again when have to or want to change the top thread. i) Cut the old thread just above the old spool and tie the new thread to the old top thread that is still threaded properly through to the needle, ii) Lift and lock the pressor foot in the up position iii) Pull the old thread out of the eye of the needle and pull on the old top thread which will pull the new thread through. iv) Cut the top thread above the knot of old and new thread v) Thread the new thread through the needle. Best of Luck, kgg

If the same thing happens with V92 thread. I would have a tendency to check the tension that you have set your bobbin thread to. Too much bobbin tension can also cause the bobbin thread from not being drawn up into the material. kgg

I would try either a 22 or 23.

I don't know if you have a manual for your machine so I found a link to the consew 225 ( www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/225.pdf ) which maybe of some help. Also there is a repair manual that you can download from ( http://prod2.wikifab.org/cgi/viewcontent.php?article=consew.repair.manual&context=libpubs ) but you have to signup for an account. kgg

It also may come down to the machine may not being able to handle V138 thread in what you are sewing because of needle to hook clearance. kgg

I agree. I would: i) try a new spool of top thread and if you change the size of the top thread change the needle size according. ii) reload bobbin thread with fresh thread as if it has been wound for more then a couple of days it may have developed a "coil memory". This may or may not be a problem it will depend on a) color (black is the worst), size of spool it comes off (8 oz or 1lb spool), winding tension and whether it is a brand name thread (like A&E and others) or a poor quality clone thread from China. If you are using 8 oz spools of thread change to 1lb and use a brand name thread. The 8 oz spools, in my experience, are the worst for developing " coil memory " and " spring back " tension problems. The difference in quality and consistency of a brand name thread to that of the cheap China thread can be like the difference between night and day. Selecting good quality thread and needles are just as important as selecting a machine. Good machine with poor needles or thread will give you either problems or a poorer quality finished product. Yes the cost will be greater for a brand name thread but when you have to throw out thread because of poor quality / consistency what did you really save? Any chance of posting a photo of how you got your top thread setup? kgg

Vehicles are for the most the dumbest purchase we tend to make. Most people I know usually only keep a vehicle for 4 to 5 years. I usually buy new and keep them up to date on servicing for their warranty period. Unlike my sewing machines which I am always oiling and checking, once a vehicle is off warranty I only do repairs, no preventative type maintenance, no oil changes etc. If it breaks, I repair it until the the body is gone. Usually I get 10 plus years. kgg

The cost of a the Juki Lu-1510 is going to run about $6000 and the Consew 2206RB-14-7-DD is about $2100. My concern is what have they done to shave $4000. Unless you are going to really make use all the extra features they are just going to be a source for problems down the road and finding replacement parts maybe even more difficult. If you need the those extra features for what you are doing buy quality first, longevity second and resale value for when you want to replace it. That to me means buying a brand name (Juki, Alder). Buy Once, Cry Once. Before investing in any machine invest in a road trip to a dealer and test drive it using your stuff. kgg