kgg

The machine does appear to be in good shape. The badge may say Tokyo, Japan but I would check with a Consew dealer or call Consew to confirm as to where it is manufactured. Juki even has some machines that are now made in China. A couple of other things you need to check for that machine are: The max needle size will it take. The max thread size for the top thread. The max thread size in the bobbin, some machines can not take the same thread size in the bobbin as the top thread. What would be a similar Juki model. Is it a clone of the Juki DNU-1541S or the LU-1508 N. In the upholstery class of machines they max out at 3/8" sewing thickness depending on material and thread size. For what you have described as wanting to sew I think a Juki DNU-1541S should be quite capable of handling it. The cost of a new Juki DNU-1541S, table and servo motor is probably in the range of $1800 US. Clones are usually cheaper. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

That is a amazing slow speed but for the average joe the cost of the motor I think would be out of reach and to complicated for most hobbyists. I use the old fashion plain jane "brush" motors on all of my machines easy to repair and cost effective. I also don't have speed reducers installed on any of my machines. My attitude is two fold: I follow "KISS" so no computer /electronic stuff to screw up as I have enough user errors to contend with as it is, "me". If I have to use a speed reducer to get added torque to gain punching power I am using the wrong machine. The Sairite Workhorse servo manual may help ( www.manualslib.com/manual/1644613/Sailrite-Fabricator.html ) as it is a copy of the Reliable servo motor. kgg

Smart decision. kgg

Smart decision. kgg

Good point. kgg

I do like the pedestal style bases so much more space. On my Kobe LS-1341 (clone of Juki 341) the center of the base of the machine hangs over the table top by very small amount. I think a good style of base for a cylinder machine would be like those old case iron cobbler bases that were used for the Singer 29K. When I can find another case iron cobbler base I am going revamp/modify it so I can mount the LS-1341 and servo on it. kgg

I agree try and get the bobbin case and thread or anything else that may be there from the previous owners use out. If you can slowly hand-wheel the needle up and down chances are the safety clutch (hook drive) has disengaged and needs to be reset from the under side of the machine once you get the bobbin and tangled thread out. There is a pin that needs to be pushed back in and you need to turn the hand wheel in the reverse direction until you hear it snap back in place. The procedure is on page 18 of the PFAFF 245 / 1245 Instruction Manual for the old German casing. kgg

Great video showing the difference in table function but most importantly table construction / strength. Also the bag is damn nice. kgg

Thank you. This machine is on a out-the-door journey as I really don't need a second Singer 29K-71. kgg

I have the 550 watt brushed motors with a the speed limiter dial and pot on a two Juki flatbeds (DNU -1541S, Juki DU-1181N) and also a cylinder bed KOBE clone of the Juki LS-1341. None off my machines have a speed reducer pulley installed. The brand / label on these motors are KOBE which is similar to all the other brush servo motor brands. I think they probably are using the same design or coming from the same manufacturer and then branded / labeled XXXX. I do have another new spare 550 watt servo branded / labeled Rex and you can't tell them apart. If you are planning on the Sailrite or Reliable with the standard domestic motor on them I would suggest installing the larger pulley wheel which Sailrite calls the Monster wheel. Sailrite does have a replacement motor called the Worker B which is just a straight swap out that should give you much better torque and speed control but a bit pricey. kgg

I have a couple of Singer 29k-71's one a 1949 with the case iron cobber base and the another from Landis a 1998 version that has a 52 to 1 helper geared motor. I did a short video using the 1998 Singer 29k-71 and plan on doing another of the 1949. Hopefully, someone may find it helpful if they are planning on purchasing a used machine or even a new clone of the Singer 29K. It is very easy to say a machine should sound / operate this way or that but I hope the video will provide a good base line. These machines were flushed and oiled using my redneck oil. The link to the video is https://odysee.com/@SingerSewing:0/singer:a Comments always welcomed. kgg

Thank you both. kgg

I am looking for a basic no frills motor driven machine that can handle V346 thread. What ever happened to the basic GA5-1 and GA5-5 machines? They seemed to be popular six or seven years ago. Were they discontinued because of problems? kgg

I think the CowBoy CB105 / 2500 / 3200 are threaded similar to the Adler 105. kgg

That is a really nice restoration. kgg

You didn't mention the colors you would like. Two things that can make your project, needles and thread. Buy brand names for both. Needles: V69 thread minimum size 16 V92 thread minimum size 19 V138 thread minimum size 22 Thread: The brand of thread that has never failed me is American & Efird ( www.amefird.com ) which is made in both Canada and the USA. These guys have put some engineering effort into designing their threads. For the type of thread and specifications go to ( www.amefird.com/products-brands/industrial-sewing-thread/ ) and select Fiber type or Application too see which thread specification meets your needs. For colors go to their color card section ( www.amefird.com/color/color-cards/ ) for that type of thread. In Canada it can be purchased directly and I assume it would be the same in the USA. Their threads are not cheap but definitely beats not having to deal with the frustration and eventual throwing out of a spool of cheap stuff because of inconsistencies or quality. I think they supply thread in 1 lb sizes not in 8 oz spools which maybe a downside for some. kgg

Interesting disclaimer. I guess you would never put it on something like a old Singer 29k patcher with the old case iron hand wheel installed on the end of the main shaft. The Sailrite Monster wheel weights about 7 pounds versus their PRO Balance Wheel is roughly the same size but made of aluminum. This leads me to think run on caused by flywheel momentum maybe a problem with these sorts of motor designs. I couldn't find the same sort of disclaimer for the Reliable 6000 motor. I run on my machines 550 watt brushed motors with a the speed limiter dial and pot and so far have not had a problem. kgg

I am glad you are enjoying your new machine. Something to keep in mind with the stitch length is it will change slightly (more stitches per inch) as the thickness of material increases. kgg

This one even shocked me, $2500 for a Singer Featherweight 222. Kijiji ad in Ontario, Canada ( www.kijiji.ca/v-art-collectibles/ottawa/singer-featherweight-222/1588802786 ) kgg

Nice simple straight forward useful solution. kgg

That is great news. kgg

Thank you. I agree, a servo is the way to go for motorizing the machine for control but I was hoping there was an original motor and mounting plate to electrify the machine available not so much for operation but more for looks. I do have have a spare servo motor but I really would like to keep it as original as possible. I just this last week acquired another much newer (1998) Singer 29-71 without a table that I am overhauling. Basically it is just about completed, just drip drying from it's redneck oil bath and waiting to be placed on a table. This machine originally came from Landis and has an additional manufacturing plate riveted to the front of the base for Landis's serial number and date of manufacture. This machine had a domestic type 1 / 15 hp, 120 v 50 rpm motor combined with a small gear box controlled by a domestic type foot pedal. The rear of the machine base has five holes drilled and tapped for mounting the motor unit to the machine, probably done by Landis. I guess this was their version of being portable. The motor works, it was supposedly burnt out but I narrowed the problem down to the foot pedal. Someone at some point tried to "fix" the foot pedal and left a part off as well as shorted it to the metal foot pedal housing (burn marks). Comparing both machines I think the fit / finish as well as the internal gears on the older 1949 Singer are much better casing quality then the 1998 model. I think there was a decline in quality as Singer started to decline when comparing these two machines. kgg

Looks like great speed control which can come in handy at times. The down side for some maybe the cost at $299 US or $375 CAD plus shipping. kgg

To me it looks like it is maybe a variant of the Consew 387 RB-2 or the Siko Lsw. kgg

Nice work. kgg