kgg

Great video showing the difference in table function but most importantly table construction / strength. Also the bag is damn nice. kgg

Thank you. This machine is on a out-the-door journey as I really don't need a second Singer 29K-71. kgg

I have the 550 watt brushed motors with a the speed limiter dial and pot on a two Juki flatbeds (DNU -1541S, Juki DU-1181N) and also a cylinder bed KOBE clone of the Juki LS-1341. None off my machines have a speed reducer pulley installed. The brand / label on these motors are KOBE which is similar to all the other brush servo motor brands. I think they probably are using the same design or coming from the same manufacturer and then branded / labeled XXXX. I do have another new spare 550 watt servo branded / labeled Rex and you can't tell them apart. If you are planning on the Sailrite or Reliable with the standard domestic motor on them I would suggest installing the larger pulley wheel which Sailrite calls the Monster wheel. Sailrite does have a replacement motor called the Worker B which is just a straight swap out that should give you much better torque and speed control but a bit pricey. kgg

I have a couple of Singer 29k-71's one a 1949 with the case iron cobber base and the another from Landis a 1998 version that has a 52 to 1 helper geared motor. I did a short video using the 1998 Singer 29k-71 and plan on doing another of the 1949. Hopefully, someone may find it helpful if they are planning on purchasing a used machine or even a new clone of the Singer 29K. It is very easy to say a machine should sound / operate this way or that but I hope the video will provide a good base line. These machines were flushed and oiled using my redneck oil. The link to the video is https://odysee.com/@SingerSewing:0/singer:a Comments always welcomed. kgg

Thank you both. kgg

I am looking for a basic no frills motor driven machine that can handle V346 thread. What ever happened to the basic GA5-1 and GA5-5 machines? They seemed to be popular six or seven years ago. Were they discontinued because of problems? kgg

I think the CowBoy CB105 / 2500 / 3200 are threaded similar to the Adler 105. kgg

That is a really nice restoration. kgg

You didn't mention the colors you would like. Two things that can make your project, needles and thread. Buy brand names for both. Needles: V69 thread minimum size 16 V92 thread minimum size 19 V138 thread minimum size 22 Thread: The brand of thread that has never failed me is American & Efird ( www.amefird.com ) which is made in both Canada and the USA. These guys have put some engineering effort into designing their threads. For the type of thread and specifications go to ( www.amefird.com/products-brands/industrial-sewing-thread/ ) and select Fiber type or Application too see which thread specification meets your needs. For colors go to their color card section ( www.amefird.com/color/color-cards/ ) for that type of thread. In Canada it can be purchased directly and I assume it would be the same in the USA. Their threads are not cheap but definitely beats not having to deal with the frustration and eventual throwing out of a spool of cheap stuff because of inconsistencies or quality. I think they supply thread in 1 lb sizes not in 8 oz spools which maybe a downside for some. kgg

Interesting disclaimer. I guess you would never put it on something like a old Singer 29k patcher with the old case iron hand wheel installed on the end of the main shaft. The Sailrite Monster wheel weights about 7 pounds versus their PRO Balance Wheel is roughly the same size but made of aluminum. This leads me to think run on caused by flywheel momentum maybe a problem with these sorts of motor designs. I couldn't find the same sort of disclaimer for the Reliable 6000 motor. I run on my machines 550 watt brushed motors with a the speed limiter dial and pot and so far have not had a problem. kgg

I am glad you are enjoying your new machine. Something to keep in mind with the stitch length is it will change slightly (more stitches per inch) as the thickness of material increases. kgg

This one even shocked me, $2500 for a Singer Featherweight 222. Kijiji ad in Ontario, Canada ( www.kijiji.ca/v-art-collectibles/ottawa/singer-featherweight-222/1588802786 ) kgg

Nice simple straight forward useful solution. kgg

That is great news. kgg

Thank you. I agree, a servo is the way to go for motorizing the machine for control but I was hoping there was an original motor and mounting plate to electrify the machine available not so much for operation but more for looks. I do have have a spare servo motor but I really would like to keep it as original as possible. I just this last week acquired another much newer (1998) Singer 29-71 without a table that I am overhauling. Basically it is just about completed, just drip drying from it's redneck oil bath and waiting to be placed on a table. This machine originally came from Landis and has an additional manufacturing plate riveted to the front of the base for Landis's serial number and date of manufacture. This machine had a domestic type 1 / 15 hp, 120 v 50 rpm motor combined with a small gear box controlled by a domestic type foot pedal. The rear of the machine base has five holes drilled and tapped for mounting the motor unit to the machine, probably done by Landis. I guess this was their version of being portable. The motor works, it was supposedly burnt out but I narrowed the problem down to the foot pedal. Someone at some point tried to "fix" the foot pedal and left a part off as well as shorted it to the metal foot pedal housing (burn marks). Comparing both machines I think the fit / finish as well as the internal gears on the older 1949 Singer are much better casing quality then the 1998 model. I think there was a decline in quality as Singer started to decline when comparing these two machines. kgg

Looks like great speed control which can come in handy at times. The down side for some maybe the cost at $299 US or $375 CAD plus shipping. kgg

To me it looks like it is maybe a variant of the Consew 387 RB-2 or the Siko Lsw. kgg

Nice work. kgg

I have looked at the Consew website (Consew.com) and can not find any information there that would suggest the RB5 is factory rated for V207 for the top thread and in the bobbin. I also couldn't find what the max needle size the machine is factory rated for. The Juki's rate their machines at V138 like for the 1541S for the top and bobbin thread but if you notice that the max factory rated needle they can handle is a size 24 needle which can handle V207. I think they allow the extra sized needle to allow V138 to work properly in thick heavy materials. So I think but have not tried it myself that the Juki could probably handle V207 thread with softer materials in both the top and bobbin. Maybe someone else can confirm this. The funny thing is my Juki 1181N has max factory rated needle size of #23 needle which is good for V138 but the machine itself is factory rated for V92 yet came out of the unopened box with V138 threaded in the top and bobbin. The bottom line is thread capacity can be confusing and I think mainly depends on what / how thick you want to sew. kgg

You can get them from American & Efird directly or Wawak ( https://www.wawak.com/Thread/Thread-By-Use/Bobbin/redi-wound-nylon-style-g-bobbins-144-bobbinsbox/?sku=THD122WH ) at about $38 US for 144 in a box. kgg

Since the machine was used in a shop one has to wonder why they are selling it so I agree it is probably a wiser decision to but the new Consew.

Yes very interesting. It made me go back and do a second test with the same thread for the top thread and in the bobbin using a piece of 7/128" (1.38mm) veg tan. I got 6 1/2 stitches to the inch. Photo 3: Side by side of veg tan from first test with 11/ 32" (8.73mm) and the second test with 7/128" (1.38mm) side by side kgg

For the wallets a flatbed is probably your best bet but another option maybe cylinder bed machine with a flatbed attachment. The Juki line of machines are excellent machines and are typically what the clones are copied after. The test would be take some of what you what to sew with the thread you are planning on using and test drive both machines. See which one works best for your needs / wants. Be aware buying secondhand like most things is always a gamble and more for the person willing to do their own repairs. If you are not someone who is willing to do some repairs buy new. If the Juki 1508 is in good to excellent "working" condition, that has not been used in a factory setting and will do what you what / need it would be my preference. I have a Juki 1541S and a 1181N. For light stuff the walking foot 1181N does a nice job where as to do the same job on light stuff with the 1541S it needs to be dumbed down. The 1508 I would imagine would be more severe then the 1541S. As far as quality / accessories / replacement parts goes Juki I think far exceeds most others. Remember no one machine can do everything. Buy once, Cry once kgg

The Juki LU-562 and LU-563 and LU-563-3 are rated for a #23 needle (Page 3 of Juki LU-562 and LU-563 Instruction Manual) so that means their max rated bobbin and top thread size is V138 thread. You maybe able to use V207 in the top and V138 in the bobbin but V207 in the bobbin may cause problems. To get V277 for the top thread you would need a minimum #25 needle which probably will not fit, other parts may or may not be strong enough to handle the strain and the bobbin probably will not accept it. kgg

Lovely work. kgg