kgg

Excellent news. kgg

This maybe the norm in India but obviously there is little regard for workers health and welfare. Just not worth the price savings. I agree. kgg

What are you planning on sewing? The 8700 series are drop feed machines not a walking foot machine and made more for fabric sewing. kgg

Have you spoken too or emailed the vendor with some pictures? I would send it back and get a refund. kgg

Some of us come from a generation where "common" sense was common. Today it seems to be in seriously short supply. kgg

It really doesn't say much for their quality control which in turn would also make one wonder about their manufacturing process quality controls. Hope they send a replacement with safer packaging. Hope the deliver person is OK. kgg

Take all suggestions with a grain of salt. The best thing when investing a nice chunk of change into a machine is to visit some dealers with your stuff and give a few machines a run. Remember no one machine will do everything and that is why some have more then one machine. kgg

Pre-wound bobbins are great for production work, time is money. Every one is wound exactly the same, convenience, you usually get a little more on the bobbin as compared to winding your own.Also winding bobbins on some machines can be a little more difficult then machines. kgg

Today I drove to Montreal to check out a Leather supplier for some veg tan as the price was about $3.00 a sq ft. cheaper then anywhere here in Ontario. I like to see and feel before I buy. I was pleasantly surprised with the very helpful staff who are bilingual (I'm English only), various leathers on hand, quality, letting me chose the pieces I liked and of course their prices. This maybe another source for people in Ontario and Quebec as they will also ship. The company is JDZ Inc., 7054 Rue Molson, Montreal, Quebec H2A 3K1 phone 514-721-4957 ( www.cuirdizazzo.com/ ).

If I am not mistaken the Tandy Pro Master is the Sailrite with a Tandy Label on it. I think you may find using a top thread of V138 and also V138 in the bobbin is going to be difficult. You may have better success using V138 top and V92 in the bottom but this all depends on what type of leather and how thick. The machine will max out on a # 22 needle which is the min. size needed to sew with V138 in soft material. For tough or thick material you need to go up at least a needle size to give a little space so the thread can form a loop properly or you get skipped stitches. It really comes down to what you would like to sew. If you are liking the Sailrite line of machines I think their Fabricator would be a more overall robust machine. If availability of parts, accessories and build quality are the deciding factors by a Juki. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

I think the style of prewound bobbin for the 29-4 is a style 19. I would give WBC Industries (wbcindustries.com) or The Thread Exchange (thethreadexchange.com) a call. kgg

Are you having problems with the material or binding being fed / sewn properly? I have never needed to change the setup to be able to do binding, even on the cylinder arm machine. Just my experience. kgg

To get a more helpful answer I think you need to add a some more information. Who is the manufacturer and model of the post bed machine? Some post beds can handle more material then others, some are have a roller foot while others are compound feed. What type of material (fabric or leather) are you sewing? Most can only handle light to medium weight materials. How how thick is the material are you sewing? Some post beds can handle up to 3/8". What size of needle and thread size? Some can handle up to a #24 needle and V138 thread while others can only handle up to #21 needle and V92 thread. I agree. kgg

Some of the newer Juki's are made in China and some in Vietnam. But it depends on the model, the last I heard the Juki 1541S were still being made in Japan as was the 441. Quality remains to be seen on the non Japanese manufactured models. I agree. That one gave me another chuckle. Clone is an identical copy, Forgery is just a look-a-like copy. kgg

I whole heartily agree. When a China clone is put side by side with a Juki there is a very quick realization why there is a difference. That just cracked me up. Thanks for the chuckle. kgg

The Juki 341 (couldn't find it on their website) is an older version of the newer Juki LS-1341. The cost of a new Juki LS-1341 is probably north of $3500 US. The Atlas version appears to be a tweeted clone of the Juki LS-341 at ~ $1900 US. The cost difference between the clone and a new Juki is substantial. In Ontario, Canada a used Juki LS-1341 complete (table/servo motor) from a dealer will run ~ $1600 CAD (~$1275 US) while a new similar new clone model will cost ~$2500 and up, depending on the dealer. Still it depends on the price, the dealer reputation, how close the dealer is to your location, how comfortable you are buying and possibly doing repairs on a used machine versus a new machine and condition of the Juki. When I bought the LS-1341 clone I actually went to the dealer and was planning on buying a new Juki but the cost difference was substantial. I said I'd would give the clone a try. I have had it for over a year with no problems, it does do the job but it is no Juki. The best advice I can give is go and test run both machines with your stuff and thread. If there are other dealers in your area with clones and used machines check them out as well. kgg

Some additional questions I think need to be answered before anyone would go out on a limb and give a definite answer. Which Juki model versus which Atlas Levy model? Are they just walking foot machines or are they compound feed machines. How thick of material (leather or fabric) do you need / want to sew and what thread would you be planning on using? Cost of used Juki and any pictures. On the surface I would first choose a good used Juki over a similar new clone. That said I did purchase a new clone LS-1341as a stop gap until I can find a good used Juki 441. When I purchased my other Juki's (1181N and 1541S) I bought them new never had any problems right out of the box. Personally I like the quality of the Juki machines and I think parts / accessories will be always available. kgg

Have you tried contacting Techsew in Montreal, toll free number is (866) 415-8223. kgg

Thank you. Thank you, I didn't realize until I had the first one cut and hammered down that I realized it was a bit long so I thought I might be able to just cut it off and re-install. So I did a test removal of a rivet installed the same way on a double layer of glued 5 oz and it was a royal pain to get the rivet shaft ground down so it could be removed from the burr. I was surprised as how tight the shaft is in the burr. I figured if I tried to remove the first rivet I stood a better then average chance of ruining the leather. So I decided to continue on the same with the others. The next one will hopefully be a bit cleaner looking. I looked at some double caps which would look really nice as they do have a nicer lower, smoother profile. I decided against using them as I didn't think they would stand up as well since the metal connecting shafts seem very thin. All Great comments. kgg

Picture of inside flap money clip rivet head slightly counter sunk.

In Canada and I'm going to assume the US we can order directly from A&E. kgg

The "804 RNR" refers to serviceman 804 of the Royal Newfoundland Regiment, one of the 68 men too survive, out of 800, going over the top on July 1, 1916 at Battle of the Somme. I am planning on making a "804 RNR" stamp for future use. What I did was a drill a hole in the long flat side of the money clip that is on the outside of the flap to accommodate a copper rivet. I then cut to shape a small piece of leather to wrap around the D-ring, wet molded it around the D-ring, dyed, glued and punched a 3/32" hole in the piece. The money clip was then slipped over the top of the flap and a 3/32" hole punched in the wallet flap that lined up with the hole in the money clip. I put a small wipe of Vaseline around the 3/32" hole on the inside of the flap, then I used a heat gun to melt the Vaseline into the area around the hole so when it was set the edge of the head would be counter sunk just a touch. I then stuffed the copper rivet through from the underside of the leather through the money clip and the D-ring leather. Then I cutoff the access rivet shaft, installed the copper washer, and hammered round the remaining shaft of the rivet with the rivet setter. What I did was sand the edges and to give a little bevel using fine sandpaper as I didn't have a proper small edger to give a nice edge. Edger and burnisher on the way. Once the wallet was constructed I used good old fashion Vaseline to put some flexibility into the leather by smearing inside, outside and all the edges of the wallet and then heating it with a heat gun. It was amazing to watch the leather suck up the Vaseline like a sponge. It didn't leave the wallet feeling greasy or oily, just flexible enough. Thank you for the questions and compliment. kgg

I am hard on my wallets and my store bought finally had seen better days. I stuff everything including the kitchen sink in there. So I figured I'd step out of my comfort zone and give a try at making one. I called it my 804 RNR. To add too the challenge: i) It had to be able to hold six credit card size cards. ii) Hold real money. iii) As thin as possible to fit comfortably in my front pants pocket without bulging. iv) Be able to attach my keys to it. I never go anywhere without my keys and wallet. They are sort of a package deal. iv) Look distressed like the bank account. v) Have No stitching. What I came up with seems to fit those requirements and is over 3/4" thinner in the pocket. The wallet consists of one piece of 4-5 oz veg tan, 1 money flat money clip, 5 good old fashion copper rivets, a little leather glue, dab of dye and some Vaseline. Photo 1: Thickness of old store bought wallet (34.31mm). Photo 2: New No Sew prototype wallet (12.92mm) Photo 3: D-ring (1 1/2") for clipping keys onto wallet. D-ring and money clip attached to wallet flap by a copper rivet. Photo 4: Wallet interior with money and cards. Any and all comments are always welcome. Thanks for looking. kgg

I like American & Efird ( http://www.amefird.com/ ) made in both Canada and the US. Lots of choices for all types of sewing. They seem to have done the engineering on their thread. The drawback for some users is that the last I heard before the China Cough shutdowns was that they had stopped producing the 8 ounce spools. kgg

If they had installed the connection right in the first place you may never have had a problem. That connection was just a blockage waiting to happen. It was obviously installed without an inspection. kgg