kgg

To me it looks like a Singer 128k or 99k. But I am leaning towards a 128 (for book Binding). kgg

According to ISMACs the serial number with no letter prefix dates the machine to 1892. http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-no-prefix-serial-numbers.html kgg

I think sewing firefighter helmet shields is going to be beyond the ability of this machine and you would need a Juki 441 class machine to do that type of work. I am going to assume the owner isn't the original owner and doesn't have the manual to determine the model. If this is a high speed machine extra care is going to be needed for oiling internal parts. Remember no one machine is going to be able to cover all those bases properly. kgg

It is definitely not a Juki 1541. I think it is very similar to the Juki LU 2210 series. If it is a LU 2210 series it is a high speed machine (3500 stitches per minute) using 134 x 35R with a max needle size of #23 (160) and a max size thread of V138 top and in the bobbin. This would be about 3.6 mm or 9/64" thick material. Does the serial number look like: LU2212WASZ70A this type of numbers will tell you what it is. How thick do you want to sew? kgg

The filament you are using has a good reputation for a quality product. We have on occasion used PETG but use a lot of PLA+ and really I cant give specifics other then we hate the damn stuff. PLA is stronger but less flexible then PETG (snaps versus bending). It either won't want to stick (when too cool) or stick like S to a blanket when to hot and needs hairspray as a release agent. This is how we dialed in our printers which may or may not help you with your setup. 1) Design a 2" (50mm) x2" (50mm) by one line height cad object. Then slice it do the bed so there are squares with about 1 inch gaps between them. 2) Dial in Z at temp we run (for example we run 240 to 250c for 3d850 and 250 to 260 for 3d870 w/ bed at 70c. To put this in perspective 3d850 typically is run at 230 and 60. Hotter is better, right up until it burns the plastic. The trick is to stay on the lower this side of burning. The hotter it is the better, as it will want to run together and make for stronger bonds between the layers/lines. w/ zero fan for first 5 layers (further allowing the lines to blend together). 2a) Lower head until you start to see ripples in the top of a square (this means too much pressure and its flow is UPWARD). Then back off by 50 microns for next square. Repeat until it is what you like. 3) Then we re-slice with 105 initial line width and first layer extrusion at 110. We then increase first layer extrusion until it starts to ripple. IF bottom is nearly perfectly smooth we back of z height until it is no longer smooth... and then play with extrusion multiplier vs z height. This will vary greatly from bed to bed and machine to machine. One of ours runs at -1.505 w/ 110% the other is -.985 w/ 130 percent. Or did until those plates wore out and we are now back to square one and have to start again. 4) We then dial in elephant foot compensation - typically "-.4" range so that walls are straight. Over the next 50 or so prints we then dial it in until its perfect. Your Celtic knot bottom layers looks good but you will never get perfect bottoms. Jerk and acceleration gets reset when it has to turn or start a line. This faster/slower/faster pattern builds up pressure in the nozzle which causes random bursts of plastic. You want it to start a line and end it slightly inside a wall so that any extra bursts of goop just makes the wall stronger. We run at 850/850 for jerk and acceleration. We run walls and infill (at 98 to 99 percent to allow any small ripples to fill up the micro gaps at the same speed - 100. So that pressure is constant. We run first layer at 50. constant speed means constant pressure which gives you a better chance of dialing in the 'perfect' first layer and every other layer. Hope the info makes sense, kgg

What I am seeing in the photo's that could be contributing to your print problems: 1. Not enough extrusion on first layer. We typically run at 105 percent for the first layer to get more squish but not so much to cause elephant footing. 2. Improper "Z" height. I would open your 3d cad software and make and make 2"(50 mm) x2"(50mm) squares. Then make columns and rows on the bed in your slicer and slice them. As each square is printed.... lower "Z" height until the TOP of the square starts to ripple from pressure. Step back to the previous square. Z height well now be as close as it can be before causing ripples. 3. Nozzle Temperature to low. With unheated beds... nozzle temps should be higher. We don't use std PLA anymore. We use 3D850 and 3D870, which is kinda sorta like PLA but not. With our mosquito head we run the temperature at 240 and on the e3d v6 at 250 (e3d v6). If you are using std PLA run it at just a touch before it starts to burn. Probably 230. It will flow faster and easier allowing for you to push up your speed (our first layer is laid down at 50 w/ rest at 100 w/ accerleration at 850) and stick better to a cold plate. With all this said you will NEVER get a perfectly smooth surface like it was vacuum molded. There will almost always be a line (even with 10 percent overlap) from where border and infill patterns meet. To REDUCE it, go with lines not the celtic knot pattern you are using now. It will be less work and faster to print. What machine are you using and nozzle temperature. The quality of filament (China vs North American or European made) will also affect the print quality of your items. I relate filament to sewing thread where cheap quality equals poorer product and added frustration. Hope this helps. kgg

The main problem with your request is you haven't said what you are planning on sewing or what country you are in. Without that info it is very difficult to recommend a machine and whether a cylinder bed or a flatbed would be best suited to your needs. You mentioned the Sailrite Fabricator, which if I am not mistaken is a modified clone of the flatbed Singer 111w and in the upholstery class of machines. I would first recommend buying a brand name like a Juki 1541S within this class or if that is out of your price range maybe something like a Consew 206RB-5. Finding a new upholstery class machine under $1000 is not going to happen. The Rex you mentioned from Amazon is, I assume a portable walking foot machine which do have their place but were designed mainly for repairing sail material offshore. Within the portable walking foot machines you also have the Sailrite LSZ, Reliable Barracuda to name a couple of other options. The under $1000 mark for an industrial machine really leaves you to the used market. kgg

Thanks Constabulary, it seems like an unpopular model probably because it is only a needle feed. kgg

Can someone point in the right direction for the specifications and a manual for a Juki LS 246-4. Lots of info about the DSC 246 but little I could find on the LS. kgg

Try a thin coating of ordinary glue stick on your bed to help with the filament bonding to the surface of the glass. kgg

For those who use 3D printers and maybe wondering what to expect as far as life expectancy of heated bed sheets on a Prusa machine might be. I just had to replace my bed on the Prusa Bear upgraded i3 MK3 3D printer as the bottom layer was slowly degrading with some lifting and voids occurring, not pretty. The bed on this machine had to be replaced after 200 miles of filament. I figure not bad, but the older Prusa i3 with the same bed has over twice the filament mileage, hum. The bed was replaced with a new Satin Powder sheet bed and the results are really nice a few test pieces as compared to the original heatbed steel sheet. Any one have similar / better / different results?? kgg

Visit a dealer with a sample of your stuff and see what does the job best. Buy a brand name sewing machine like a Juki. kgg

I can see using up to a #20 needle in thick or sticky material for added needle strength and making a little larger thread hole but a #22 is to big a needle in my opinion for V69. I think the problem is probably also related to other factors. Detailed pictures or a video of how you are threading the top thread from the top of the small 1/2 pound spool to the needle would help a lot. Being a bit more specific on how thick the leather your are sewing would help. What direction is the bobbin spinning in the bobbin holder, CW or CCW. How are you tensioning the bobbin thread? What size of thread are you using in the bobbin? kgg

I think all information related to needles quality / size/ type / fiction etc. as it is important to the quality of work any machine can provide and is often overlooked. I just sold my PFAFF 1245 in the last couple of days. Now I have room for another machine but had a inquiry from a guy basically around the corner from me who said he had bought an old Singer 211 but considered it a $500 "boat anchor". He needed something that worked without shredding / breaking / bird nesting the V92 thread that he was using on some boat canvas. We had a phone conversation and narrowed down his problem with the "boat anchor" to probably the type and size of needle he was using. I offered him a couple packs of my Schmetz needles to try and now the "boat anchor" is just sailing along find. kgg

Depending on your local store but if they are like most they will typically deal mostly with domestic sewing machine related items. For needles I would recommend you check out Wawak, good prices and fast delivery. kgg

As wiz said they are the oil wicks. If you email Techsew they probably would email you a copy of their manual which should help you with routing the wick to the correct locations. kgg

I guess it proves the point that you get what you pay for. My personal experience has lead me to using only Schmetz needles as a lot of the other brands that I tried were just frustrating to use. This maybe particular only to my needs, machines and what I sew. It was interesting to see the quality decline of the Flying Man needles over a six year period. kgg

The PFAFf 145, according to my info, is a compound feed able to handle up to a size #23 needle using 134-35 needles which means max V138 thread, as indicated by the H3 designation in medium to heavy materials. Depending where you live access to parts / accessories tend to be expensive and harder to find then those for Singer or Juki machines. kgg

When I contact Juki about another model about a year ago I did ask if the 1541S was still being made in Japan. At that time they were but had moved production of some models to the China and I think Vietnam. Will the quality remain the same, only time will tell. But their warranty is the same no matter where they are made. The best thing to do would be to drop them a email to be sure or a dealer as the box will say where it is made.

For me that would be an easy decision. Juki, as their 1541S model is still made in Japan. Why buy a forgery from an unknown manufacturer with unknown parts that will have less value later on. Remember that the "Name" on the clone machines are not that of the manufacturer and quality can vary greatly. kgg

I think having a safety clutch is essential on any machine. The extra $100 could save you a lot of dollars and frustration should you jam up the machine. If money is not the main factor always buy a brand name machine like Juki. When you eventually decide to replace the machine it will be easier to sell and will have a higher resale value then that of similar clone machine. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

I have a couple of friends who are into quilting, talk about sticker shock. New machines now range from $5000 to $10000 then you need a sewing frame so add another $1000 to $3000 and if you want to automation add another $5000 to $10000. kgg

I don't think you are being picky. I think quality usually correlates to the like most things, price. If you pay top dollar for a top quality item (leather shouldn't be any different) your expectation is to get top quality. If not return it for a full refund and shop elsewhere. During these Covid times it's probably has been difficult for a lot tanneries and suppliers to provide all their grades but this shouldn't be a pass to send a lower quality hide then what you paid for in hopes you don't notice the difference. kgg

Excellent. kgg

I think is a cautionary tale to all of us. The non compete probably isn't that uncommon once things are all signed up legal like but the no pictures part to me is questionable. You may have problems proving the quality of your work, what the tack set actually looked like, materials used in the construction and that the sampled was asked for. I really hope things work out and are just delayed as a result of the Covid-19. A good old fashion phone call maybe in order as well, sometimes emails wind up in the persons junk box and are never seen. Maybe contact the social media platforms they are active on or the BBB to help with investigating and determine if it is just some sort of legitimate error or a scam. kgg