kgg

What I am seeing in the photo's that could be contributing to your print problems: 1. Not enough extrusion on first layer. We typically run at 105 percent for the first layer to get more squish but not so much to cause elephant footing. 2. Improper "Z" height. I would open your 3d cad software and make and make 2"(50 mm) x2"(50mm) squares. Then make columns and rows on the bed in your slicer and slice them. As each square is printed.... lower "Z" height until the TOP of the square starts to ripple from pressure. Step back to the previous square. Z height well now be as close as it can be before causing ripples. 3. Nozzle Temperature to low. With unheated beds... nozzle temps should be higher. We don't use std PLA anymore. We use 3D850 and 3D870, which is kinda sorta like PLA but not. With our mosquito head we run the temperature at 240 and on the e3d v6 at 250 (e3d v6). If you are using std PLA run it at just a touch before it starts to burn. Probably 230. It will flow faster and easier allowing for you to push up your speed (our first layer is laid down at 50 w/ rest at 100 w/ accerleration at 850) and stick better to a cold plate. With all this said you will NEVER get a perfectly smooth surface like it was vacuum molded. There will almost always be a line (even with 10 percent overlap) from where border and infill patterns meet. To REDUCE it, go with lines not the celtic knot pattern you are using now. It will be less work and faster to print. What machine are you using and nozzle temperature. The quality of filament (China vs North American or European made) will also affect the print quality of your items. I relate filament to sewing thread where cheap quality equals poorer product and added frustration. Hope this helps. kgg

The main problem with your request is you haven't said what you are planning on sewing or what country you are in. Without that info it is very difficult to recommend a machine and whether a cylinder bed or a flatbed would be best suited to your needs. You mentioned the Sailrite Fabricator, which if I am not mistaken is a modified clone of the flatbed Singer 111w and in the upholstery class of machines. I would first recommend buying a brand name like a Juki 1541S within this class or if that is out of your price range maybe something like a Consew 206RB-5. Finding a new upholstery class machine under $1000 is not going to happen. The Rex you mentioned from Amazon is, I assume a portable walking foot machine which do have their place but were designed mainly for repairing sail material offshore. Within the portable walking foot machines you also have the Sailrite LSZ, Reliable Barracuda to name a couple of other options. The under $1000 mark for an industrial machine really leaves you to the used market. kgg

Thanks Constabulary, it seems like an unpopular model probably because it is only a needle feed. kgg

Can someone point in the right direction for the specifications and a manual for a Juki LS 246-4. Lots of info about the DSC 246 but little I could find on the LS. kgg

Try a thin coating of ordinary glue stick on your bed to help with the filament bonding to the surface of the glass. kgg

For those who use 3D printers and maybe wondering what to expect as far as life expectancy of heated bed sheets on a Prusa machine might be. I just had to replace my bed on the Prusa Bear upgraded i3 MK3 3D printer as the bottom layer was slowly degrading with some lifting and voids occurring, not pretty. The bed on this machine had to be replaced after 200 miles of filament. I figure not bad, but the older Prusa i3 with the same bed has over twice the filament mileage, hum. The bed was replaced with a new Satin Powder sheet bed and the results are really nice a few test pieces as compared to the original heatbed steel sheet. Any one have similar / better / different results?? kgg

Visit a dealer with a sample of your stuff and see what does the job best. Buy a brand name sewing machine like a Juki. kgg

I can see using up to a #20 needle in thick or sticky material for added needle strength and making a little larger thread hole but a #22 is to big a needle in my opinion for V69. I think the problem is probably also related to other factors. Detailed pictures or a video of how you are threading the top thread from the top of the small 1/2 pound spool to the needle would help a lot. Being a bit more specific on how thick the leather your are sewing would help. What direction is the bobbin spinning in the bobbin holder, CW or CCW. How are you tensioning the bobbin thread? What size of thread are you using in the bobbin? kgg

I think all information related to needles quality / size/ type / fiction etc. as it is important to the quality of work any machine can provide and is often overlooked. I just sold my PFAFF 1245 in the last couple of days. Now I have room for another machine but had a inquiry from a guy basically around the corner from me who said he had bought an old Singer 211 but considered it a $500 "boat anchor". He needed something that worked without shredding / breaking / bird nesting the V92 thread that he was using on some boat canvas. We had a phone conversation and narrowed down his problem with the "boat anchor" to probably the type and size of needle he was using. I offered him a couple packs of my Schmetz needles to try and now the "boat anchor" is just sailing along find. kgg

Depending on your local store but if they are like most they will typically deal mostly with domestic sewing machine related items. For needles I would recommend you check out Wawak, good prices and fast delivery. kgg

As wiz said they are the oil wicks. If you email Techsew they probably would email you a copy of their manual which should help you with routing the wick to the correct locations. kgg

I guess it proves the point that you get what you pay for. My personal experience has lead me to using only Schmetz needles as a lot of the other brands that I tried were just frustrating to use. This maybe particular only to my needs, machines and what I sew. It was interesting to see the quality decline of the Flying Man needles over a six year period. kgg

The PFAFf 145, according to my info, is a compound feed able to handle up to a size #23 needle using 134-35 needles which means max V138 thread, as indicated by the H3 designation in medium to heavy materials. Depending where you live access to parts / accessories tend to be expensive and harder to find then those for Singer or Juki machines. kgg

When I contact Juki about another model about a year ago I did ask if the 1541S was still being made in Japan. At that time they were but had moved production of some models to the China and I think Vietnam. Will the quality remain the same, only time will tell. But their warranty is the same no matter where they are made. The best thing to do would be to drop them a email to be sure or a dealer as the box will say where it is made.

For me that would be an easy decision. Juki, as their 1541S model is still made in Japan. Why buy a forgery from an unknown manufacturer with unknown parts that will have less value later on. Remember that the "Name" on the clone machines are not that of the manufacturer and quality can vary greatly. kgg

I think having a safety clutch is essential on any machine. The extra $100 could save you a lot of dollars and frustration should you jam up the machine. If money is not the main factor always buy a brand name machine like Juki. When you eventually decide to replace the machine it will be easier to sell and will have a higher resale value then that of similar clone machine. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

I have a couple of friends who are into quilting, talk about sticker shock. New machines now range from $5000 to $10000 then you need a sewing frame so add another $1000 to $3000 and if you want to automation add another $5000 to $10000. kgg

I don't think you are being picky. I think quality usually correlates to the like most things, price. If you pay top dollar for a top quality item (leather shouldn't be any different) your expectation is to get top quality. If not return it for a full refund and shop elsewhere. During these Covid times it's probably has been difficult for a lot tanneries and suppliers to provide all their grades but this shouldn't be a pass to send a lower quality hide then what you paid for in hopes you don't notice the difference. kgg

Excellent. kgg

I think is a cautionary tale to all of us. The non compete probably isn't that uncommon once things are all signed up legal like but the no pictures part to me is questionable. You may have problems proving the quality of your work, what the tack set actually looked like, materials used in the construction and that the sampled was asked for. I really hope things work out and are just delayed as a result of the Covid-19. A good old fashion phone call maybe in order as well, sometimes emails wind up in the persons junk box and are never seen. Maybe contact the social media platforms they are active on or the BBB to help with investigating and determine if it is just some sort of legitimate error or a scam. kgg

I thought the video with the Singer was slower then the other one. Maybe just me. Either will give you the control for those places where you need really slow precise thread placement control. Nice simple speed reducer setup. kgg

I tried my metric set of dies / taps and they weren't even close. The 16 was to large, then I started with the 5/8 x 11 and worked up. The closest I could come when nothing else really worked (metric or English) was with using the tread gauge. That then drove me down into the thread design rabbit hole. Don't what to do that again, it was frustrating to do in Fusion 360. kgg

Interesting the speed difference between the two machines using the same motor and same size handwheel. kgg

Thank you dikman. I am working on strap folder using a free domestic sewing machine motor, we'll see how that goes. Proprietary threading is a way but if they really wanted to have a custom thread they should have used a left hand 13 twist to really fool with customers. Sort of remains me of Singer threading. kgg

That is nice work. kgg