kgg

For me that would not be a hard decision. I think the used one is way overpriced when compared to the price of a new machine/ knee lift/ table/ servo motor. The only difference is the used machine is $200 cheaper and has a roller guide. Roller guides are fairly cheap if you really need one. The new Consew 206 RB-5 would have warranty, local support, manuals, checked over to ensure everything is in proper working order by a qualified tech and ready to work. kgg

Great option over the portable walking foot machines. Nice, neat compact way of packaging a much better machine along with a servo motor into a small transportable unit. This may give those that are short on space some ideas. kgg

All the mentioned industrial machines (Alder, Juki, Consew, Singer )are proven old iron, the problem as the original posts states " I do not have room for a industrial sewing machine table. " So are there other options beside the portable walking foot machines? kgg

That doesn't say much for the dealer new or not. Not a great way to start off with a new machine. If they are a new dealer you would think the machine would not have left their hands until it was gone over and in perfect operating condition. For the price I would expect it to have been sewn off with the thread in the needle, the sew-off sample under the presser foot, manuals (operating and repair) in English and ready to work. You are to nice, if was me I would contact the "dealer" the machine came from and express my displeasure to the point of seriously considering whether or not to send it back. Have the dealer either do the repair, replace the machine or refund the money. If the dealer repairs it then they cann't say you screwed things up voiding your warranty should something else arise. kgg

I would choose the Juki 1341. The 1341 doesn't have any electronic controls that the 2342 has which are probably going to become expense / hard to find down the road. I like basic machines, easier and cheaper to repair / maintain. The bells and whistles are great for production but for the hobbyist or small commercial the KISS rule I think works best. Also the 2342 maybe a challenge to adapt to your needs. From your description of the glove and the photo if you go with a cylinder machine you will need a flat top table extension to do the majority of the work. Before you purchase any machine I would take the material needed to make a glove to the Juki dealer and do a test run with the thread you are planning on using. I would also suggest that you consider a flatbed Juki 1541S or 1508 for the main work and a patcher for doing the thumb attachment work. You have selected a really top notch brand that should give years of reliability. It really is going to come down to what will give you the best results that meets your abilities. kgg

Why not check with the company that you got the Juki 1541S from and see what they can offer, new or used in a Juki ls-1341. kgg

That was a smart move in tracking down the 650, the 750 is about $300 more and there is not much advantage over the 650 but not near the ability of the 1050. The consistency in all their models is excellent particularly when you dial it in a machine for one calibre. Just like with sewing machines dialed in for one function. If you didn't know what the numbering relates too, it's the number of completed rounds that should be able to be produced by the lever in an hour but the 1050 when motorized can easily do 2 to 3 times that amount. Look forward in seeing what you produce with the new CB4500. kgg

You should enjoy the Dillon. Excellent equipment, they are the Juki of reloading gear. Which model did you get. We have had no problems except for having to design / make a small mod on the 1050 for the revolving cylinder to prevent the possibility of casings from tipping slightly. kgg

With a budget of $500, with a walking foot and not an industrial sewing machine I only know of one that in it's spec lists that it can handle V138. The Reliable Barracuda ( https://reliablecorporation.com/collections/sewing#US ) at $499 US. The Sailrite and the Techsew are rated for V92. kgg

I agree with Constabulary. Remove the all the belts and narrow down from where the noise is coming from and readjust position of motor. May need longer belts. kgg

Nicely executed. kgg

Think you be much better off with something else rather then a domestic sewing machine. Look for a walking foot sewing machine it will serve you much better. If you need a portable machine look at machines like the Sailrite or Reliable Barracuda which have walking foot. kgg

I do find the thread, haha, subject interesting as it may not be so important on industrial machines that have greater punching power to overcome some tension related issues. I think the principals can be well applied to improve the domestic machines sewing abilities. Now if someone could figure out how to put a real walking foot (not the domestic walking foot attachment) on an old iron that would give real life back to some of the old stuff. We all have our own pet peeves and quirks, one of mine is improving / eliminating thread backlash mostly by redesigning the cheap thread stand and how the thread spools are held in place ( New accessories for my Juki 1541S and sewing Table, #3 ).

I am glad you found a machine that fits your needs and within your budget. Whether you are buying a brand name or a clone where a dealer / reseller shines is how they make you feel, selling the right machine to do the job and ensuring that you understand the workings of the machine. There is nothing better then good old fashion knowledgeable personal customer service. kgg

You could maybe try a sample piece and play with the amount of pressure that you have set the presser foot at. I am going to assume that you are trying to sew across a hump of multi layers of denim. Any hump is always going to try and tilt the heel of the presser foot back. For that I would use a wedge. The wife's thick nail file /buffer would be the first likely candidate. As you are coming up to the hump, lift the pressure foot up with the needle in the down position through the material as if you were going to make a turn, slide the wedge under the back of the presser foot and let the presser foot back down. That should keep the pressure foot level and allow it to sew over the hump. That combined with a little tugging on the thinner material to prevent over feed of the material should help. I would also experiment with adjusting the amount of pressure on the presser foot (thicker materials need less pressure foot pressure then thin). kgg

If it is the Juki LS-246-4 listed on their site I would be wary of all the electronics related to the stitching and motor controls from a parts replacement point of view, cost and future availability. Juki's are excellent machines which a lot of the clones copy but I like basic no frill type machines, they are simpler and cheaper to repair when something goes wrong. All I need when I turn the motor turn on is for the machine to stitch in forward and reverse when I push the peddle, don't need a whole lot more then that. The extras are I think more suited to production situations not the hobbyists needs. I hope someone with more experience jumps in on this point of seaming purses. I think it comes comes down to whether you are going to do 90 percent wallet type stuff or 90 percent purses. If it is mostly going to be wallets then I would suggest going with a new compound feed flatbed, like a Juki 1541S or clone and repair/ modify your Singer 29k71. kgg

I agree with Aven. If you know a dog groomer they maybe able to help. I would try a #40 or a #50 blade with a attachable comb sized to the height that you want the length to be. A lot is going to depend on how curly and intermingled it is and how large an area you are trying to cut down evenly. If it is just the edges it shouldn't be too difficult but getting large areas to look good can be a challenge. kgg

I did enjoy your youtube videos. kgg

The problem maybe due to presser foot pressure. The setting to get good presser foot tension on the thick stuff maybe to light when you drop down to 2 layers or the foot is partially resting on the thick stuff while trying to sew the 2 layers. kgg

Let us know if you decide on a machine. kgg

I would suggest taking a visit to a brick and mortar that is fairly close to your location with a sample of what you want to sew. Two places come to mind Artisan Sewing Supplies and Atlas Levy Sewing Machine Company. That way you can test drive a machine, clone or brand name with your stuff, within your budget and with local support. kgg

I think you have topped out your machines sewing abilities. As a possible solution to the bending and braking of needles I would try a large diameter needle by moving up to a size 22 or 23 needle for the extra needle strength and increase the stitch length. If that doesn't work I would probably would look at investing in a different machine. kgg

I have two question:. What is the combined thickness of all the layers of leather that you are trying to sew through What machine are you using? Also I don't see any attached pictures in your post. kgg

I meant to say "about 70 percent used". kgg

I do change thread size (v69/v92/v138), type (bonded polyester/ bonded nylon) spool size (8oz / 1lb.)and most importantly manufacturer (branded/cheap Chinese). I have noticed variations in stitching even with colour changes, white vs black. I have never done an actual bobbin tension measurement but do the bobbin drop test, adjust bobbin tension as needed and do a test stitch when I make a change to size, type, colour, manufacturer or size of spool. I have found that threading a bobbin from a spool getting down close to about 70 percent will have developed spool coil memory or if has been left on the bobbin for an expended period of time the thread will also develop a bobbin coil memory either is a royal pain. kgg