kgg

I would say that all the brand name threads are probably within a certain tolerance of one another. The cheaper quality no name brands who knows. The strength would probably be in the far north of a 1000 pounds. kgg

A little more harsh then myself but when I need a good quality item I look at items made in North America first, then Europe, then Japan, then South America with China being a last resort. I have bought fabric out of Paraguay, desktop fabric strip machine for making binding out of Brazil, 3d printers made in Czech Republic and sewing machines made in Japan. kgg

From the information I have see I think it would be be based on the number of stitches per inch. The formula would be the number of stitches per inch X the breaking strength of the thread X the thread loop factor: Example would be: stitches per inch: 5 V69 breaking strength equal: 11 lb thread loop factor for 301 stitch (lockstitch) type: 1.5 and thread loop factor for 401 (chainstitch) type: 1.7 Lockstitch Seam strength = 5 X 11 x 1.5 = 82.5 lbs. Chainstitch Seam strength = 5 X 11 x 1.7 = 93.5 lbs. The reason a chainstitch seam has more strength for the same thread size with the same seam length but there will be about twice the amount of thread used. kgg

I would suggest using 138 in the bobbin. If you use a smaller thread in the bobbin the strength of the seam will be limited to the lesser thread size in the bobbin. If you use a larger thread in the bobbin say 207 the seam strength will be limited to the capacity of the 138 thread on the top. kgg

I believe in buying good quality tools / equipment not necessarily the best or even new equipment but not the low priced cheap quality stuff unless I am going to treat it like a BIC lighter. If you don't like a particular aspect of the hobby chances are you can resell good quality equipment otherwise you maybe stuck keeping or taking a bath on resale. There is always a market for good used quality equipment. Good quality equipment always lessens the frustration associated with learning something new and helps, at least me, to concentrate on learning. I have always liked good quality equipment that was above my ability level, one less thing to wonder about. Equipment or me, most likely me. I typically try to follow the Buy Once, Cry Once method of buying equipment. It really depends on what someone wants to do and how much money you can afford. Example you can make a leather wallet using thousands of dollars in equipment like clicker presses, electric skiver, electric burnishers, electric sewing machines, etc while at the minimalist end of the scale a box cutter, a little glue, straight edge, some tap water, carpenters hammer, rivet setter, and a few copper rivets. kgg

Thank you. That makes things a lot easier. kgg

I just picked up a 1949 vintage Singer 29k - 71 in decent enough working condition complete with original stand and flat bed attachment. I will be starting the process of cleaning / oiling etc. Has anyone converted their Singer 29k -71 to a 135 x 16 needle system from the 29x4? This would make life a little more simple as only having too have one needle system that is interchangeable between my other machines. kgg

Excellent news. kgg

This maybe the norm in India but obviously there is little regard for workers health and welfare. Just not worth the price savings. I agree. kgg

What are you planning on sewing? The 8700 series are drop feed machines not a walking foot machine and made more for fabric sewing. kgg

Have you spoken too or emailed the vendor with some pictures? I would send it back and get a refund. kgg

Some of us come from a generation where "common" sense was common. Today it seems to be in seriously short supply. kgg

It really doesn't say much for their quality control which in turn would also make one wonder about their manufacturing process quality controls. Hope they send a replacement with safer packaging. Hope the deliver person is OK. kgg

Take all suggestions with a grain of salt. The best thing when investing a nice chunk of change into a machine is to visit some dealers with your stuff and give a few machines a run. Remember no one machine will do everything and that is why some have more then one machine. kgg

Pre-wound bobbins are great for production work, time is money. Every one is wound exactly the same, convenience, you usually get a little more on the bobbin as compared to winding your own.Also winding bobbins on some machines can be a little more difficult then machines. kgg

Today I drove to Montreal to check out a Leather supplier for some veg tan as the price was about $3.00 a sq ft. cheaper then anywhere here in Ontario. I like to see and feel before I buy. I was pleasantly surprised with the very helpful staff who are bilingual (I'm English only), various leathers on hand, quality, letting me chose the pieces I liked and of course their prices. This maybe another source for people in Ontario and Quebec as they will also ship. The company is JDZ Inc., 7054 Rue Molson, Montreal, Quebec H2A 3K1 phone 514-721-4957 ( www.cuirdizazzo.com/ ).

If I am not mistaken the Tandy Pro Master is the Sailrite with a Tandy Label on it. I think you may find using a top thread of V138 and also V138 in the bobbin is going to be difficult. You may have better success using V138 top and V92 in the bottom but this all depends on what type of leather and how thick. The machine will max out on a # 22 needle which is the min. size needed to sew with V138 in soft material. For tough or thick material you need to go up at least a needle size to give a little space so the thread can form a loop properly or you get skipped stitches. It really comes down to what you would like to sew. If you are liking the Sailrite line of machines I think their Fabricator would be a more overall robust machine. If availability of parts, accessories and build quality are the deciding factors by a Juki. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

I think the style of prewound bobbin for the 29-4 is a style 19. I would give WBC Industries (wbcindustries.com) or The Thread Exchange (thethreadexchange.com) a call. kgg

Are you having problems with the material or binding being fed / sewn properly? I have never needed to change the setup to be able to do binding, even on the cylinder arm machine. Just my experience. kgg

To get a more helpful answer I think you need to add a some more information. Who is the manufacturer and model of the post bed machine? Some post beds can handle more material then others, some are have a roller foot while others are compound feed. What type of material (fabric or leather) are you sewing? Most can only handle light to medium weight materials. How how thick is the material are you sewing? Some post beds can handle up to 3/8". What size of needle and thread size? Some can handle up to a #24 needle and V138 thread while others can only handle up to #21 needle and V92 thread. I agree. kgg

Some of the newer Juki's are made in China and some in Vietnam. But it depends on the model, the last I heard the Juki 1541S were still being made in Japan as was the 441. Quality remains to be seen on the non Japanese manufactured models. I agree. That one gave me another chuckle. Clone is an identical copy, Forgery is just a look-a-like copy. kgg

I whole heartily agree. When a China clone is put side by side with a Juki there is a very quick realization why there is a difference. That just cracked me up. Thanks for the chuckle. kgg

The Juki 341 (couldn't find it on their website) is an older version of the newer Juki LS-1341. The cost of a new Juki LS-1341 is probably north of $3500 US. The Atlas version appears to be a tweeted clone of the Juki LS-341 at ~ $1900 US. The cost difference between the clone and a new Juki is substantial. In Ontario, Canada a used Juki LS-1341 complete (table/servo motor) from a dealer will run ~ $1600 CAD (~$1275 US) while a new similar new clone model will cost ~$2500 and up, depending on the dealer. Still it depends on the price, the dealer reputation, how close the dealer is to your location, how comfortable you are buying and possibly doing repairs on a used machine versus a new machine and condition of the Juki. When I bought the LS-1341 clone I actually went to the dealer and was planning on buying a new Juki but the cost difference was substantial. I said I'd would give the clone a try. I have had it for over a year with no problems, it does do the job but it is no Juki. The best advice I can give is go and test run both machines with your stuff and thread. If there are other dealers in your area with clones and used machines check them out as well. kgg

Some additional questions I think need to be answered before anyone would go out on a limb and give a definite answer. Which Juki model versus which Atlas Levy model? Are they just walking foot machines or are they compound feed machines. How thick of material (leather or fabric) do you need / want to sew and what thread would you be planning on using? Cost of used Juki and any pictures. On the surface I would first choose a good used Juki over a similar new clone. That said I did purchase a new clone LS-1341as a stop gap until I can find a good used Juki 441. When I purchased my other Juki's (1181N and 1541S) I bought them new never had any problems right out of the box. Personally I like the quality of the Juki machines and I think parts / accessories will be always available. kgg

Have you tried contacting Techsew in Montreal, toll free number is (866) 415-8223. kgg