kgg

Sorry, early morning Nicotine level was low. Hadn't had my second cup of coffee and enough vaping. Use to be second cup of coffee and six smokes. kgg 341 engineer manual.pdf

Here is a copy of the Juki LS-431 engineering manual refer to section 9 page 12. kgg

If I'm not mistaken the fabric needles would be DDx1 which are 214x1 needles. I still would check with a Seiko dealer or your manual. kgg

I would say those made in Switzerland then either those made in Japan or Germany. The problem is getting screwdrivers that seat and fit properly as well as being durable so sometimes you need to go with metric sized screwdrivers to get a better fit to avoid screw head slop. kgg

The green arrow points to what looks like a oiling port for the internal parts similar to the Juki LU-562 & 563. The red arrow points to the stitch length adjuster as I don't see a stitch length adjusting dial or it is a safety clutch to protect the hook assembly when you jam up the machine. If you want to wind just a bobbin: Here is a link to pretty good video from the 9:00 minute mark ( i) remove thread from needle otherwise you will jam the machine up. ii) the winder needs to be set so it trips out when you get about 80 percent of the bobbin filled. iii) install empty bobbin on winder shaft. Most bobbins have holes on the sides of the bobbin so a) the end of the thread from the spool of thread you are using to fill the bobbin through the winders tension discs then to the inside of the bobbin outwards through a hole b) push the bobbin trip lever towards the rear of the machine to engage the winders drive wheel up against the machines drive belt c) hold the end of the thread in your hand d) hit the go pedal e) hold the end of the thread until you have at least two complete rows wound on the bobbin. iv) you really should have two spools of thread one for the top thread and one for the bobbin thread so you don't have to unthread the machine just to wind a bobbin. kgg

Industrial flatbed upholstery machines similar to the Juki dnu-1541 S and similar clones will typically sew 3/8" (9.5mm) while the cylinder arm machines similar to the Juki LS-341 or 1341 and clones will typically sew 7/16" (11mm). Once you go above that thickness and / or higher then V138 thread you need a a Class 441 machine, which the one armed bandits are, either manual or motorized. When I wanted a class 441 machine I choose to go with a motorized machine as for me I figured the bloom would quickly fade having to move that lever up and down for each stitch. The class 441 machines excel at thick / tough leather but can be dumbed down to thin stuff with smaller thread. I suggest you follow the 90 percent rule, doing mostly thinner flat items get a flatbed or a cylinder arm machine with a table top attachment. No one machine will do everything. Buy Once, Cry Once Here is a great article you should read to help figure out what machine would be needed for your stuff. kgg

There are three one armed bandits that have similar capabilities. i) Tippmann Boss costing about $1000 USD ( https://tippmannindustrial.com/tippmann-boss-leather-sewing-machine/ ) ii) Cowboy Outlaw costing about $1600 USD ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/cowboy-outlaw.html ) iii) Weaver Master Tool Cub costing about $2100 USD ( https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/master-tool-cub-manual-leather-sewing-machine-aluminum ) Some people prefer one over another but either should do the job. The thing to remember is the that all three are made to sew thick leather with a thick thread up to V415 and use a needle that is about the same size as a 2 1/2" finishing nail. The main question is what you want to sew and from there choose a machine. kgg

To further what @Constabulary said here is a line from ISAC.net about the Singer 17-2 ( https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/singer-class-17-sewing-machines.html ) " Machine No. 17-2 has drop-feed across arm at right of needle and is used for closing the seams of Shot or other bags after they are filled, sewing buckram on Jean Pants, Pocketbook manufacture, etc. " Personally I think you should be looking for machines similar to at least a Juki LS-341 or clone depending on the thread size / toughness of the leather (chrome tan or veg tan). With old machines when you get into the 75 year bracket whether they are brand name or clone finding replacement parts can be expensive or sometimes impossible to find. If you can't find parts you wind up with a pretty boat anchor. When setup properly it is a game changer as you get the presser foot, the needle and the feed dog moving your item along particularity on thick items or multi layers. kgg

Basically you saved about $1200 USD or more for a similar machine being sold in the US. kgg

Looks good. You really should flush the machine prior to doing any real sewing to get any bits of manufacturing stuff out of the machine. Oil everything just not what is suggested. If it is metal touching metal oil it. Two questions: 1) Is that a plastic pulley on the servo motor?? 2) Cost Here is a couple of pdf's for the Juki LS-341 that may help. kgg 341 engineer manual.pdf Juki LS-1340&42 Servcie Manual.pdf Juki_LS-341N_Engineers_Manual.pdf Juki_LS-341N_Instruction_Manual.pdf

From the information I was able to find it is a zig zag drop feed machine made for fabric. Here is a pdf of the Instruction manual. kgg CONSEW+2457R-1A+INSTRUCTION+MANUAL.pdf

Sorry. Best of luck. kgg

The question should be will a 15 ton press be sufficient to handle what you need. I would get the suppliers to do the calculations for you. Once you have that answered then you will be better able to determine what the best machine for your needs and budget would be regardless of supplier. kgg

Without a photo people are just shooting in the dark. I don't know of any data base of PFAFF machines listing date of manufacture. PFAFF doesn't seem to have kept recorders like Singer. The best anyone can do is view a photo and from certain features say it is an old casing or new casting or by the colour which ranged from everything from diaper stain brown to off white. Except for the new PFAFF manuals appear to change very little over time and when they did they changed the model number. Post a photo for better help and a detail of the information on the nameplate. kgg

I can only say the photo of the thread to the top pin looks like an 8 oz spool of inexpensive Chinese thread. Your video doesn't work. kgg

My suggestions to try: i) Your top threading is incorrect. a) The first guide after the top pin should be at the 12 o'clock position b) you have the thread wrapping around and over the pin in the first top thread tensioner. It should go between the tension disc of the top thread tensioner and straight down to the next set of discs for the thread takeup. Section 9 THREAD THE MACHINE HEAD of the manual. If you don't have a manual I have attached a screen shot of the proper threading and a pdf of the manual. ii) This machine is a unison / compound machine made for medium to heavy weight materials. The material you are using looks like a thin fairly stiff material similar to ripstop or a very tightly woven fabric. a) bulk up the material b) reduce presser foot tension c) make sure the fabric isn't being sucked into the needle plate hole d) use a leather point needle to cut the material rather then a fabric needle which will try to separate fibres before punching through d) Wrong machine for the job try using a domestic sewing machine or needle feed needle. kgg instruction_eg.pdf

Glad to be of some help. kgg

Very nicely done. My suggestions on speed reduction: i) if you need to slow down the machine and reduce servo motor "speed jump" you should add in a speed reducer pulley. Most of the brushless servo motors have a minimum startup speed of 500 rpm and a pulley size of 50mm. With some of the brushless servo motors the initial increase in speed from 0 to 500 rpm, speed jump, can be a problem. With your arrangement by increasing the size of the hand-wheel pulley size from 2 3/4" (70mm) to approximately something just under 4.5" say 110mm you did gain some reduction in speed. Example A: i) Without the new hand-wheel pulley the speed of would have been 357.1 rpm with a minimum startup speed of 500 rpm at the servo motor. ii) With the new hand-wheel pulley the speed would be reduced to 227.3 rpm with a minimum startup speed of 500 rpm at the servo motor. To help with smoothing out the speed jump with the side benefit of increased torque install a speed reducer pulley between the servo motor and the new hand-wheel pulley. Example B: 1) With the new hand-wheel pulley and a minimum startup speed of 500 rpm at the servo motor. i) install a 3:1 speed reducer pulley having a typical size of 6" large pulley and 52mm" small pulley the speed of the new hand-wheel pulley will be reduced to 78 rpm If you had just used the original hand-wheel pulley size of 2 3/4" (70mm) and a minimum startup speed of 500 rpm at the servo motor the speed would have been reduced to 122 rpm at the hand-wheel. kgg

When you get the Singer 15-90 freed up be aware it is an old domestic drop feed sewing machine. Nether the Singer 15-90 or the Singer 29-k2 are meant to do tack work. The Singer 29K2 was last made around 100 years ago finding parts could be difficult or near impossible to find so you may windup with a boat anchor. I would suggest you read this article about what sewing machine you should be looking at for your needs. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

Just so you know the Juki DLN 415 is a needle feed high speed garment (fabric) machine not meant as leather sewing machine except for maybe some very thin upholstery class leather. The max needle is a DB x 1 (16 x 231) x size 22 needle so it good for max V92. I would tilt the machine back and see it the reverse lever mechanism isn't jammed or seized-up. Here is a pdf of the manual. Juki DLN-415 Instruction Manual.pdf

Nearly 5 months, that's way to long a time-frame. Why so long?? Why not do a video dump of the course so individuals can review then pick and choose what parts maybe appropriate for them? Since your company is in China ( https://jinglinmachine.com/?srsltid=AfmBOoq11e89sz6k-gwr_MvnnFWrXn2mTgNU2aJrJ60DGEhRVdGXQ5W6 ) the cost of your equipment would probably be prohibitive if subject to tariffs for US customers at I believe 145%. Example: Your EC-17 with a letter holder would be $600 (assuming USD) subject to tarrifs would cost 600 + 870 (tarrif) = $1470 USD versus a Weaver Foil and Hot stamp machine ( https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/foil-and-hot-stamping-machine?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=product_shelf ) would cost $870 USD. kgg

The only way I know is hot stamping. The tradition way of stamping only works with veg tan. This article may help. kgg

You should try Old English which is still spoken in some NFLD. communities at speeds that would put an auctioneer to shame. Simple Example: "Come to he the once" in modern English it means--> I'll be right there.

I feel your pain. Interesting design so the belt is now multilingual. kgg

Another alternative is find someone with a 3D printer and they show be able to do one up in the size you need. The cost of the actual 3D print would be less then $2.00 in materials but getting the design replicated is going to be costly. kgg