mike02130

Here are some rambling thoughts. Year after year things get cheaper and quality falls more and more by the wayside. One example is the wood fittings inside a newly built home versus 100 years ago. Same goes for shoes, clothing, tools and even candy bars. For all of us that think it's crap, new consumers come in to replace us without knowing or experiencing better. A large percentage of the population just don't know what good is. Then there is the recent popularity making leather goods. Many are not craftsman but makers, assemblers and the like. I read some shop's About sections and many describe their dissatisfaction in the corporate or I.T. world. They start an Etsy shop, do social media and then open a Shopify site. They lack the skills to make a quality product and lack the pride of doing excellent work. They judge themselves by their "likes" on social media and their income. Quality is not a barometer for their work. Making things cheaply and lack of quality is a great saver of time, thought and labor. There is no need to buy a bell skiver or splitter when one can buy off the shelf leather at varying thickness', machine sew a chunky wallet and throw it up on their website. All that's needed is a clicker press and a sewing machine. To go back to my thought that people don't know or care about quality, look at the items they do buy. Cheap Chinese products made out of leather from an unknown origin or designer products that lack some qualities but have a fancy label. I make and sell some items that are lined inside and out with fancy leather, but my competition has similar yet shoddy items for one quarter the price. Cheap usually wins out. Uniqueness loses.

You are turning the screws clockwise. Is that the correct way? Are they reverse threads?

Is that from an inside bend? For a wallet I use .5 to .8mm leather which I glue to a backing piece. I use a wooden form and glue it at 90 degrees. I do not glue the center other than the perimeter. That alleviates the problem for me.

How much are you taking off at a time? That first picture, it looks like a deep skive. Have you tried multiple passes? How thick is the leather and how thin are you going?

YKK are popular and come in many colors. They have an Excella line that is higher end that work well. The downside is the lack of variety for the pulls. Not really an issue if you're OK with basic designs. Riri are excellent and I think they are slightly better, but not by much. They have more choices for pulls. The Excella cloth is nicer having a pattern to the cloth and is shinier (maybe polyester or a blend?). The Riri cloth is more cotton looking and the color has more of a matt finish. They are sized my millimeters. Riri--M4, M6, M8 and so on. YKK--3, 5, 6 etc. I choose them by the size that looks best for the item. Small items I use a Riri M4, the YKK 3 is too small for me. Larger sizes I choose on a case by case basis according to the size of my work. You will need "top" and "bottom stops" and pulls for the specific size and brand. Some of the information and pictured examples can be confusing. They have "open end", "closed end" and a crap load of other variations as you can see here, https://www.riri.com/products/riri/executions/. Don't get confused and let that get you in a tither. What you want to do is simple. Buy a length of "single chain" zipper tape, plenty of top and bottom stops and some pulls. Rocky Mountain Leather carries YKK Excella and Buckleguy.com carries Riri. Buy the stuff then come back here for help figuring them out.

I suppose it would be possible but more difficult, or at least not as convenient(?).

I'm under the impression the collar is not for dogs. He mentioned cuffs, too.

I would punch the holes on the outside piece while it is laying flat. Cut your inside piece longer then glue them together while wrapping them around something round, such as a bottle or rolling pin. You could just do it freehand, too. Trim the piece to length. Then you could use an awl to complete the holes or use a chunk of wood (2x4 or 2x6 in USA) and position-punch, reposition and punch with your chisels.

Whatever works for you. With .45mm thread I do 3 and with .35mm I'll sometimes do 4.

https://jayhardtke.com/

Wing dividers are for marking a stitch line. I suppose you could use a divider to mark a faint decorative line in soft veg tan. A creaser makes a decorative crease on leather. They are not the same. There are leathers that are difficult to scribe a line with dividers but they will take a hot crease.

I wouldn't trust any leather from Amazon. Some American name brands are Herman Oak, Wickett & Craig and Horween. There are shops that sell straps of those leathers. There are other brands but those 3 are usually considered the cream of the crop. Buckleguy.com sells straps and of course, buckles.

Do you mean something like this? https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/other-tools/products/rocky-mountain-micro-leather-roughing-tool?variant=32906599596141

I'm not sure what you mean by curved, concave edges. I have a Barry King #00, a Palosanto #0 and a Ron's Montana #1. Although the numbers are all different, the size is all the same. Ron's works better on thinner leather than the Barry King.

I don't have any information on the specifications. I can send you a sample in the mail. It is much thinner than Velodon. I use it for tranche pockets. Are you familiar with M T Leather supplies in Romania? He carries a variety of materials and offers sample packs. M T Leather

Have you tried Tyvek?

This got out of control. I accept responsibility for that. I meant what I said but this is not the place for it, and I apologize to you and the other members for bringing it this far in public. I will respect your right to post and will not make any future comments.

Your passive aggressiveness does not become you. You know nothing of my life, business or my character. I have much happiness and success. As far as your advice, I really don't need it. I don't have a need for more sales or followers. My 375 IG followers follow me without any hustle or pitch from me. My sales are fine in different venues and on Etsy, especially for it being my hobby. I must say that I am flattered that you sought out so much information on me. Now, my advice to you, and mine is sincere, I suggest that if you're going to sell yourself here, you may want to also offer some information, help and participation to the forum. I may be wrong--and correct me if I am-- but so far I've only seen you looking for money, posting your shop and now unboxing videos. It's all a hustle. If you are so concerned and want educate others, I suggest you post about how to saddle or machine stitch leather, what are the differences and benefits of chrome tan vs veg tan or simply just answer others' questions other than how to get money from GoFundMe or Kickstarter. You may want to look into posting on Reddit leather forums. This will be my last response here. You are welcome to have the last say.

Your Thanks!....lol some people.... comment is what got me started. I find you arrogant and always pimping yourself and looking for something without offering anything to the forum.

The pot is calling the kettle black.

https://www.artisanleathersupply.com/collections/machines/products/mini-creaser-tips?variant=40907857166493

I don't quite understand the question. But when I sew a keeper (loop?), I use use a wine cork on the opposite side of the awl and keep pressure on it so the strap won't twist or flop from the awl.

Take a scrap and experiment with different positions. That way you will have no doubts.

Yes it is normal. I think even a blunter needle would pierce the thread on a saddle stitch. You just need to not snag the thread. One needs to pull the first thread in the hole away from the second needle to avoid piecing it. One can also pull the first thread out some as the second needle is entering. If it is pierced, it will come unpierced. If you do a lot of piercing it is due to technique or the wrong size thread and/or hole.

I gotta say, this is the best I've ever seen. Excellent job.