mike02130

I like Uniters, followed by Vernis. I haven't used Fenice and I don't like Giardini paint but I do like and use their edge primer. It is more work to get a good edge with paint than it is burnishing veg tan. https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/dyes-stains-finishes/products/uniters-heatable-edge-paint-matte

What exactly are looking for? Size, shape and reason?

Need a long tapered skive. Like I said earlier, show us a picture of the back of a T-pocket. Just make up a dummy one. In the meantime, I went into by box of shame and pulled out an example of what you were asking about material.

I agree with Matt S. Your card holder has pronounced lines of the inner pocket. I wonder if you are skiving enough? You may want to go wider and taper it to almost zero. I don't think that's the case in your picture. I suggest you figure out this method before you go on to other types of pockets. You may receive better help if you were to show a picture of the back of one of your T-pockets. You may also want to upgrade from that Amazon knife in the picture.

This tape is not gummy compared to other tapes I've used. I've never used it for sewing so I can't give advice on that. With free shipping, it may be worth trying. https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/supplies/products/jaeger-double-sided-assembly-tape?variant=15442027610221

No one asked you about Hatch chilies?

I'm curious to know why that is? Isn't N.I. part of the UK?

What type of wallet? Horizontal 9 pocket, vertical 6 pocket or something minimalist or card holder like? The more layers the thicker it gets. Do you plan on T-pockets? How about skiving? If you're burnishing then you must use veg tan. Does Springfield have much of a selection of thinnish veg? How much experience do you have making wallets? Are you OK with leather that is scarred or has other blemishes? Are you planning on all the wallets matching and using the same leather? Men's or Women's (unisex) wallets? The more concise the question, the better the answer. I've tried the Korba and some colors look better than others. The red and black look nice. Rather than darkening they get smoother and shinier. The backs weren't bad but they ought to be burnished with Tokonole. There are nicer leathers available if you could bump your budget up to $150 to $200. If you figure how many square feet or there about per wallet, you could make a wiser decision of the type and amount of leather. I line my wallets but if I were to make an unlined typical nine pocket bifold, I would use 1.5 mm for the back, 1 mm for the other side of the cash pocket and .8mm for the pockets. So that would be 2/3 and 3/4 ounces, I suppose. .

If you don't have experience then I suggest no lining. If you know what you're doing then use some nice leather and line it with some fancy goatskin. Maybe make a practice bag first. As long as you don't have any exposed metal hardware inside the bag then there ought to not be any worry about the laptop getting scratched. The lining would be strictly for looks. But the bag itself should be of some quality in order to be up to par for the lining. You don't want to put lipstick on a pig, or in this case a cow. You may want to be more specific in your question in order to get a better response.

https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/buckles-hardware/products/japanese-quick-release-hook-solid-brass?variant=32980035436653 https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/buckles-hardware/products/key-ring-quick-release-hook-stainless-steel

There's not much dust at all. It is more for the scraps or splits from the leather. Without a vacuum you need to reach into the bell and pull out what hasn't fallen out. Say hej to my friend Erik Sörstedt if you see him.

Well, "Wild Harry" swears by a vacuum. I have one without a vacuum and I have no regrets. Like you, I use it for small projects like wallets, straps and purse gussets. I will sometimes run a 3' x 5mm strap through it and split it down to 3mm or so to make a shoulder strap for a purse. I'm familiar with your work and have read your posts and I don't think that you need to spend the extra money for a vacuum.

It just takes practice and a sharp blade. I hold on tight where there is always constant tension from the machine pulling and me counteracting it's pull.

I've used these before. It worked well.

I've been eyeing them on eBay. I don't know much about them but there are plenty of letters available.

The more you argue, the less sense you make. Like I said in the post that your comment is quoted from, Wallets, handbags and watch straps don't use all that hardware that you can not imagine living without. Perhaps you are just not aware of finer leather goods?

A watch strap requires one hole punch. Wallets and most handbags don't require a punch unless you are making an adjustable shoulder strap; and then, it is only one punch. No "setters" are needed. So, 1 set of irons, and two punches is how much money? Hmm, you could even throw in a Japanese cutting/skiving knife and a creaser.

I'm much in agreement with you, at least tools that were made in the last 25 years or so. Most US tools are made in Mexico and China. Milwaukee tools are owned by a Chinese company. I'm a finish carpenter (joiner) and woodworker so I have a lot of experience with wood tools. My tools are mostly older USA tools that are built well. I buy cheap broken USA power tools to use as replacement parts. My bigger machines are all USA made between 1950 to 1980. Many of my hand tools were made by Stanley from 1920 to the 1950's. There are small manufacturers in the USA that do make excellent tools. But no mass produced ones that I can think of. Many American professional tool users will agree with you. It is a topic often discussed on the job site. I'm genuinely interested in knowing more about crappy USA tools and what tool brands and tool producing countries are preferred?

I never made that claim. I am aware of them.. I try damn hard to avoid buying from them. I don't believe the conversation was about leather goods, was it? Your little polemic fails in so many ways. What is your point? Some prefer quality over "quantity". I prefer quality. You seem to prefer mediocrity. Like they say, those who die with the most tools wins. How are those coal and wine and beef exports doing from your country? Go tell those workers your defense of buying low-cost imports and see what they say.

Yeah, I have a Palosanto #0, a Barry King #00 and Ron's #1. They are all the same size (hmm, go figure?). Keep in mind, if the leather is soft and floppy, no edger will do a proper job. I use Uniters edge paint on chrome tan and floppy veg tan.

The flesh side will get fuzzy with use. It does not get gummy.

For thin leather I use a Ron's #1 Montana edger. You could put the edge on top of something like a ruler or cutting mat so that the edge of the edger is not rubbing on the table. At that thinness, does it even need edging? But yes, sandpaper on a block would work. I sand diagonally to the edge.

I suggest you put your mind at ease and ask them. No one here is espousing anti-China sentiment. Rather it is that China is known for copying, counterfeiting and producing cheap inferior products and having shoddy working and environmental conditions. That is a fact.

I Agree 100%. Money spent in the USA stays in the USA. At least most of it does. I'd rather spend my money close to home. It helps my neighbor buy food, pay their rent and send their kids to college. The money goes back into the American economy. Then there is the large dereliction of worker's rights and environmental regulations and the large carbon footprint of being made in China. Yes, it is nearly impossible to buy products not made in China, but I try my damndest. One is better off buying 40 year old used items that will outlast the newer imports. How about you UK guys that buy tools made in China that are labeled made in England? It is because they ship the finished tool to England and then Sheffield will attach a handle. How many Doc Martens employees lost their jobs when they started being Made in China? Australians--how about the job and quality losses from Blundstone moving to China? The landfills are full of cheap crap. I'm happier having fewer good items rather than a lot of crap items. By the way, none of what I said has anything to do with US China politics.

Like the Preacher-man said, Tokonole. Buckleguy.com sells Wickett & Craig bridle leather panels and shoulders with a pasted back in different weights. Zach White sells undyed veg-tan shoulders with a pasted back, too. I've been happy with the ones from Zack. Buckleguy is sometimes hit and miss, depending on what part of the hide they're cutting the panel from.