mike02130

Did you skin those animals on the computer screen? They would make good gloves.

On veg tan one can put a dab of solvent based contact cement on the pattern and wait until it is tacky then apply to the leather. First test on a scrap. On chevre and some chrome tan, I use double sided tape. I've never had an issue. On my veg tan I use a poster board pattern and use Scotch tape. I cut right through the tape. Sometimes I'll add a binder clip to a cut side or two. I prefer the two tape methods best.

They'll mail out samples if you ask.

https://www.leathercraftpattern.com/Leather-supplies/Hermes-quality-leather-bracelet-hardwares

Do you mean French edgers? I don't know what exactly an edge skiver is.

https://www.barrykingtools.com/handtools.htm

Water based seems to take longer to tack-up than solvent based glues. The Renia is a popular glue but I don't like it at all. I really tried to like it, I've experimented with it in a lot of applications. I seem to always get those gummy snot boogers. Apply a thin coat to both sides and wait until it dries then assemble. No telling how long of time, maybe 10-20 minutes? Another thing I don't like is that it is thin and seems to run all over the place. It is difficult to clean off a glue spreader and I'm always getting it on my fingers. The best advice is, rather than asking us, experiment with it yourself.

Hmm, we don't know what you know. "The Wuta small fits my Kevin Lee stitching irons very well." How wide are the KL irons and awl? "It's just not long enough going thru 3 layers of veg tan." How thick are your "3 layers"?

You may be using too much glue. Rubber cement is, well, rubbery. It doesn't sand, it only stretches. It is usually used as a temporary glue. I use Weldwood contact cement which gives one a nice buzz. I also use Ecostick 1816B which is a water based contact cement. Seiwa is another brand of glue for leather work.

Best advice ever. Pertains to all things. Tokonole does contain some wax.

It works well. I'm not putting any downward pressure on the pony. It is an 8# iron. A clamp would work well, too.

I mark the edge with a Sharpie then put it flat with the blade hanging off the bench, and use stones. I have better control moving the stones than I do standing up moving the knife. I sit on a stool and have my eyes closer to the task. It's the same way I sharpen an axe.

Croatia https://www.beltsproduction.com/

Mine works in the horizontal position, too.

Hours to days. Not missing a thing. I use a fan that speeds up drying time. I keep it at a distance on low speed. I've tried a heat gun but it seemed to dry the outside coat and not the inside fully. I find that doing opposite sides at the same time works. Say I have a wallet, I do one edge then flip it over and do the opposite edge. So now top and bottom is done. I then clamp it in a vice or put a couple of spring clips on it to hold it upright. If you do a vertical side it will run. I just finished off a wallet the other day. I put one coat on at night, the next day it took most of the day to put on three more coats with sanding in-between. I've read where some people put multiple thin coats so it dries faster. I like Uniters paint.

I glue two pieces of 3/4" MDF together and turned them on a lathe to 8". I then wrapped and glued a strip of leather around it and put them on a low speed contraption I built. I use it mainly for woodworking tools but it works great on my round knives and particularly on strap end and oblong punches.

https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/rulers-measuring/products/digital-leather-thickness-gauge

I don't know anything about sewing machines but I recently saw two ads for a Tipman Boss for $1000. and 1100.

You're going to catch the thread on the handle. Being a woodworker you know that a cord or air hose is always going to get caught on something. If you're going to sew bags or large items then you'll need a clamping bolt lower. I like the jaws to be sharp at the top where they meet. When adding leather it will round them over more. Your jaws are pretty rounded making the clamping point lower than the top. I take a lot of breaks and I would put a magnet on the jaws somewhere. If you want to be trick, get a round magnet, bore a hole slightly deeper than the magnet. Glue it in then glue a thin wood plug over it and sand it flush.

What he said. Once you figure the tool's name, maker and model, search under "sold items". That will give you a better idea of a price.

We're all hoping for a video.

https://www.thistothat.com/

The awl is as wide as 6 ounce leather is thick. About 3/32".

The leather supply house ought to provide samples for free or a low price. Two dealers I use will provide off cut samples free with my orders and another one charges a dollar for a 2"x3" clicker cut sample. But those are EU and USA suppliers. edit, Are you asking about leather samples or product samples?

A Palosanto #2 beveller is quite large for "small goods". The numbered sizes differ from one maker to the next. A Palosanto #2 is equal to a Ron's Montana #3 and a Barry King #1. I'd recommend a Palosanto #0, Ron's Montana #1 or a Barry King #00. These are all the same size. I have all three and each one has their pros and cons over the other. If I were to have just one, it would be Ron's. It may behoove you to have a better and more concise plan on what exactly you want to make other than just wallets and notebooks. There are many styles of wallets that use different weights of leather and different methods of construction. Do you want rustic chunky or high-end thin? Will you be using thick leather or layering thin leathers and lining all parts of the wallet? Do you know how to sharpen and use a strop properly? Palosanto knives are made with high speed steel. Diamond or ceramic stones will work much better than Japanese water stones or sandpaper. I say this from experience. You didn't mention glue. There are a half a dozen to choose from. Punches? I use corner punches for my goods. Edge creaser? I have five different size sets of KS Blades' irons. I've tried other brands but I prefer the KS. For me, working with cool tools is a large part of why I do leather work. I say spend and spend some more. The better tools also have a higher resale value.