mike02130

It's either leather or it's not.

It's got a hole that they patched.

Please report back, I'm interested in knowing.

I have the Buckleguy press. I use it for 10 and 13 mm spring snaps that I get from Rocky Mountain Leather. I think those are line 20 and 24 spring snaps? The BG press' upper die holder is a 7.8mm diameter with a 1.411mm pitch. The bottom holds a smooth anvil that is 18.9mm. In real measurements that may be 5/16" and .74" or 3/4".

My prices seem high to me but that's because I figure, why would I buy that when I can just make it?

https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/skiving-cutting-knives/products/japanese-skiving-utility-knife-shirogami-smoke-razor-sharp?variant=33225081389165

Hmm, I wonder how much Chinese hardware is sitting out in Long Beach harbor on a container ship?

The 10 buck red handled knife from Amazon and others is a POS. You're better off reprofiling an old Stanley plane iron (blade). You can get an excellent Japanese knife for $60. or less.

https://www.buckleguy.com/

Yeah, I call that a bevel(?). They're like that so there is an opening to start feeding your leather into the knife. I bought some sort of Teflon tape to put on the foot and it helps protect the leather from getting marked up. I also bought a foot with a roller. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00823JF0S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032AM6I4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08W8QZ2G7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Slope? Do you mean a curve? The feet usually have an arc to match the round blade. A straight foot will make a different cut. I would think it is more for special cuts.

I've used it on both Vernis and Uniters. It can be used on burnished veg tan as well. It works but it is very glossy. I use paraffin or Columbus wax with heat and rub with canvas.

Yellow No.2 pencil and paper. Cut and tape pattern together and adjust as necessary. No computers on the lifeboat.

When you say "gap", Do you mean a valley along the seam after the edge paint dries? Are you making fancy items? For something with layers like a wallet, I glue two pieces together, I usually make them both oversized and then mark and trim them. The result is an even and square cut. Depending on the item, I will cut one piece to size and the mating piece bigger then trim it to size. There are better edge finishes than what you are using. Buy some Giardini Basecoat Dense. It is a primer and filler. Apply a coat, let dry and sand. Use Uniters edge paint on top of the basecoat. I prefer Uniters over Giardini edge paint. Sand between coats. If you have a fileteuse, that helps by heating it and smooshing it around. https://www.buckleguy.com/giardini-basecoat-dense/ https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/dyes-stains-finishes/products/uniters-heatable-edge-paint-matte

Just a bit of info. Japanese knives are labeled blue paper steel (Aogami) and white paper steel (Shirogami). In the west it is just commonly referred to as blue and white steel. The colors are from the color of paper or wrapping that designates the grade of steel from Hitachi steel company. The blue is harder than the white, yet the white will take a sharper edge. The hollow on the back of the Japanese knives, chisels and the like is called an Ura. It helps with sharpening (like a Scandinavian grind) and needs to be flattened at the edge.

Hmm, I don't know much about them but I've been looking at them on eBay for sometime. If anyone else can chime in with the pro's and con's, I would appreciate it much. One positive(?), there is plenty of type and accessories available for the Kingleys.

I primarily use Weldwood. I transfer it to a small jar. The jar opening being smaller has less fumes but it will still kill you, only slower. For larger glue areas I like Intercom Ecostick 1816B non solvent contact cement. It takes longer to tack-up but it is easy to use and has no fumes. I use an acid brush to apply it and clean the brush in water. I like the Fieblings' cement for smaller applications.

You seemed to have found them, no? It looks like they are made by Riri. They may only use exclusive suppliers. I use their zippers. https://www.riri.com/products/cobrax/press-buttons/ https://www.etsy.com/listing/1060512276/cobrax-galaxy-snap-fastener-button

I don't use those but I do use the spring/glove snaps. When setting them you don't wallop them with the hammer. It's better with a series of light blows all the while moving the tool in a circular motion so that it flares the post evenly.

More refined looking. Less chunk sliding in and out of a pocket.

You could always grind the handle down.

I think you'd have the same problem. On thinner leather with the wood one I cut a taper or an angled point and stick that through then pull the leather through.

I'm planning on using cheap 4" landscaping drain pipe.

I use .5-.6 mm goatskin (chevre). I never worked with sheepskin but with soft leather I use a rotary knife. Instead of pulling the knife through, I first back cut the ending part closest to me a little bit then reach back and pull and cut. This way the end cut isn't stretched. When I glue two pieces of leather together I cut both oversized ,glue together then cut. In some circumstances, I have one piece the proper size and then make the other bigger, then glue and trim.