mike02130

In USA I've seen them called glove snaps. Nice stuff. https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/buckles-hardware/products/thk-premium-japanese-segma-snaps?variant=13869441548397 https://www.buckleguy.com/brass-snap-fasteners/

The pleat openings always face up.

If you told us what you're making you may get a better answer. Depending on the item--let's say a wallet--I cut the back to the proper size then over-cut the card slots allowing for a trim allowance. I glue the pieces together then flip it over and using the back as a guide, cut the pockets to size. This will give you a good finished edge with little or no sanding.

A "turned" bag is usually made out of softer leather and is one piece sewn inside out. Many totes and dop kits are sewn inside out. A bag with separate gussets are usually stiffer and are sewn from the outside.

Doldoki is a South Korean company. https://www.fineleatherworking.com/doldokki-leatherworking-tools/

Those would be the ones. Maybe smalls.

No, just the basic one. https://www.rmleathersupply.com/products/japanese-segma-snap-setters?variant=13916512452717 You need the two setter handle tools but if you already have a dished out rivet anvil, you can use that instead of buying theirs. Buckleguy sells something similar in batches of 100. They look a little more bulkier. https://www.buckleguy.com/brass-snap-fasteners/ What are you making?

I've been using them lately. Matter of fact, I'm waiting on a delivery of some small black ones. The solid brass are nice because they're unfinished. The gold are too gold for my taste and the nickel, well they're nickel. I've been using the black ones. I like them but they scratch easily. I suggest you separate them from the other parts. They do need to be set carefully like they mention on their site. I've been using the large, but looking at their site I realize I need another setter for the small. They're not as strong as the typical snaps but they look a lot better on smaller items.

A wing divider will allow for a better looking stitch. If you start using proper thickness of leather for a wallet, a groover may just tear it up.

Exactly. I use bees wax for my thread. I prefer paraffin for my edges after burnishing or edge paint. Being a petroleum product I believe it creates a better and slicker finish. It is not as gummy as bee's wax. I also stick my pricking irons into paraffin when working with thick leather for an easy exit. The only way you'll know is to try it out.

One needs to figure out the actual measured width of a beveler. Different brands have different numbering systems. A Ron's Montana edger--#1 and Barry King's #00 and Palosanto's #0 are all the same size.

Three things not to do that you do. Use wing dividers rather than a groover. It came in the kit, right? Do not use your self healing mat as a backup to your irons. I use a thick piece of leather or an end-grain log. Do not shop at Tandy. O A leather supply is in Canada. https://www.oaleathersupply.com/ Be aware that chisels are measured between the teeth while irons are measured from center to center. Leather work is not a poor persons hobby.

I don't know which corner is bottom right corner. When I make a wallet, I glue and the sew the complete perimeter. One piece of thread. I never felt the need to do any overwrapping. It looks like cheap leather which makes your work more difficult and affects the outcome. I suggest some nice pre-dyed leather. The stitching distance to the edge looks close. I suggest 2.5 to 3mm. Did you use an edger? The corners are too sharp. The stitching is inconsistent. Not knowing your technique I can not suggest how to do better. The edges are thick and need to be skived. Always hammer down your stitching holes before and after stitching. Rocky mountain Leather has a great Japanese skiving and cutting knife for $60.00 U.S.. The edges really need a lot of work. I suggest that you cut your pattern out a bit larger and after gluing the pieces together, trim everything to size with a sharp knife. That way your edges will be nice and flush and will need little to no sanding. Then prick your holes and sew and edge bevel then smooth if needed and burnish. I must say, it is a strange and difficult pattern to practice on. I believe that type of gusset is called a Mexican gusset. I suggest that you make a more simple wallet or card holder to practice on. Something with a T-slot. You seem to have potential. Make another.

The Tiger is a flat thread and the twist is a round braided thread. I've used both but I prefer other brands. Sometimes the Tiger lays funny but it isn't a bulky stitch. The twist wants to sit high and even when hammered down it protrudes. Out of the two I think the Twist is nicer and has more colors and is better for small goods like wallets, notebooks and the like. Others would think differently. District leather in Georgia carries Vinymo. It is one of the higher end threads available. The size of your stitching irons/chisels will dictate the size of the thread. I see that most people starting out use thread that is too big, myself included. If you live in Buford you ought to take a twenty mile drive to District leather in Peachtree corners.

Oh yeah, that's a keeper.

You didn't say what thickness leather you are using. The more details the better the answer. A Palosanto #0 and #01 will work on thick and thin leather, while a #01 will be to large for thin leather. I use 1-1.5mm leather for my wallets. If I burnish them I use a #0. If I edge paint I don't use any. On my notebooks and passport holders I use one size or another depending on the thickness of the leather. To answer your question with such limited information, I would say a #0. If you want a larger edge you could always use a bit of sandpaper. I have no idea what country you are in but in the USA there is only one place that sells them and they are out of stock. When they get them they sell fast. To order them direct from Korea it costs $20.00 or so in shipping and can take up to a month or more. Great alternatives are Barry King and Ron's Tools. A Barry King 00 and Ron's Montana edger #1 are the same size as the Palosanto #0. The difference on all of them are the width and length of the toes--the guide. The BK is wider and on thin leather it will rub on the work surface. It can be remedied by elevating the leather on top of something. But because of the larger guide it is the easiest to use. Ron's is second on ease and the Palosanto requires more concentration because of the narrow guide. I think the Palosanto is the coolest looking, the Barry King is the easiest to use and the Ron's is easiest to use for thin leather. Though, they all result in the same edge. I really can't recommend one brand over the other, that's why I have all three. Hmm? Maybe Ron's #1 for thin leather and Barry King for thicker leather and Palosanto for looks. Left leather is a Palosanto #0. Right leather is a Barry King #0-- the same as a Palosanto #01. It is difficult to tell the difference in the picture. The three edgers in the other picture are Ron's, Palosanto and BK. You can see what I mean about the guide feet. So, what are you going to do?

This is a little card holder I happened to be working on today. It is two pieces of goat leather glued together equaling about 1mm. I mistakenly put the pictures in reverse order. Better to read bottom-up. I cut the card slot sides and bottom over sized, glue, then flip it over and trim to size. This ensure an even edge resulting in little or no sanding. I skive the lower front of the T slot tab and the upper corners on the back of the covering pocket. This is not necessary but by overlapping them it ensures no gapage between the card slots. I skive the back of the T-slot to eliminate any bulky panty lines when assembled.

Short answer: Back at 1.5mm. Pockets, .8mm. Long answer: 1.5 mm for the back. If you want it lined then use 1mm and glue on .5mm. If you want to go higher-end, use two pieces of .5mm with a piece of .5mm Salpa in-between. With Salpa hold it back a bit then take a bone folder and and shape the edge which will give you a nice raised look. Insides .08 or if you want lining, two pieces of .5mm glued together. If you do lining, hold it back a bit on the edges that are sewn so you can eliminate skiving the outside edges. The T pockets ought to be skived all the way around (not the tops) to eliminate panty lines. I like goat/chevre leather. Buttero is nice, too. Rocky Mountain leather sells both and does splitting and free shipping. I use 3.0 irons and .45 mm Vinymo or Meisi thread and Uniters edge paint. Sometimes it's difficult to not get a gap between the tabs on the T pocket and the one below it. To remedy that, I make the tabs slightly longer (vertically) and skive a few millimeters of the face on the bottom of the tab and then skive the back of the covering pocket at the top so there is no gap. Comprende?

What is your definition of "quality beginner hand tools"? What is your budget? Are those something that are disposable or that will work okay or something of high quality that will last you forever? What one would use to make saddles, various sheaths and holsters would be different than what one would use to make wallets. Narrow down what you want to make and that would narrow down the tool selection. Do you want to use Japanese style chisels of European type? Will you be using thick or thin leather or a combination of thicknesses? Will you be using rivets or stitching or both? What about hardware? Are you going to use veg tanned leather or chrome tanned? Will you be burnishing your edges or using edge paint? Are you competent at sharpening a knife? That may direct you to the type of blade; fixed or disposable. Will you be doing strap work and need hole punches, half round or English point punches? Would you need a #1 or a #3 edger? Will you be skiving leather with a knife or a French edger? How about edge creasing? Do you just want to have fun and make a few things or do you want to do serious work? Other than you doing a little bit of tooling and stamping, we know nothing. What do you consider "specialty tools"? I may sound like a dick but the more specific you are, the better the answers you may receive. I wonder if you're getting ahead of yourself? I suggest you invest 20 bucks and buy a few cheap tools--not a kit--and make something. Show the work here for a critique and ask questions. That would help narrow down that what you seek.

Such a vague question. The more specific you are the better answer you will receive.

Uniters is good stuff. I use it with Giardini primer. It's thick stuff and dries whiteish. Easy to see when sanding and fills the voids better.

The Saffiano has a plasticy coating making it difficult to bevel. When using edge paint it is better not to bevel--less chance of it dripping down the sides. Take some sandpaper and give it a light sanding just to ease the edge. The painting will give it a roundness. What brand edge paint are you using?

Keep an eye on here,

I've seen desks and the leather is wrapped around a substrate and then laid into a recess making it flush with the top. You're just looking for a mat. Pre computer we used to use them all the time. We called them leather desk blotters. Google and you may be amazed.

The Goods Japan ones look very similar to the Barry King and Osborne creasers. They will work with an alcohol lamp. Wuta irons are pretty popular. Google reviews. I use an electric one. When I was a kid my father gave me a screwdriver and told me to put it in that hole in the wall. Well, it was shocking. I learned about electricity and have no fear of it.. Take that one you have and light that sucker up. That would be proof positive. https://www.barrykingtools.com/handtools.htm https://wutaleather.com/collections/craftool-pro/products/edge-creaser