mike02130

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=tobacco+pouch+leather

Yeah, I understand. Buckle Guy sells premium dyed leather sides in a variety of colors. They offer strap cutting service. I think they charge 25 bucks per side. Might cost more but if you figure your labor and frustration, it may be worth it?

Is it not feasible to buy pre dyed leather?

I'm not impressed with the 315. Kind of thin and runny/messy. It seems to make snot boogers when sanding the seams and they just stick and roll around. It is a glue that I really want to like but I just can't. I've had some failures but maybe it was my fault? I've never tried Barge but I use Weldwood contact cement. I don't mind the smell. In my mind, when it comes to adhesives, paints and cleaning products, the more warning labels, the better the product.

Micro edge on a plane iron or chisel serves a different purpose. Other than making it easier to sharpen, it also assists in the wood shaving moving away from the edge and creating less drag. I question how important that is but there are plenty of sharpening nuts out there. A machine jointer or planer blade never has a micro bevel. I would think whatever the factory grind is or was would be correct. You must have plenty of blade left to check it out with a bevel gauge. With such a wide bevel and a 6" or 8" blade it'll take quite a bit of work to flatten it out to get rid of your micro bevel. I'd be tempted to send it out to be ground and then maintain it's angle.

Nice stuff. I've used a lot of the Buttero but am moving away from it. Seems like it scratches just by looking at it. Nice leather for a wallet. Why such wide stitching?

Do you hammer the stitching when done? That will flatten out the thread and maybe help unpinch the leather.

I had an answer but deleted it. The original post was from October 28.

Looking much better. How far over is your stitch line from the edge? Maybe try 1/8" and thinner thread.

Yup. Goat or skive a piece of cow. Pretty standard.

BTW, $108 Canadian money in and shipped from Canada.

It may help more if you were to give specifics and show a picture of what you would like to make. "General bag making techniques" is a wide ranging subject. I make classic style handbags which are much different from totes and hobo bags and other "inside out" bags. Will you be saddle stitching, bonding leather or using structure, padding or lining? There are handle and strap styles.

Hmm, The poster seems to be M.I.A.?

I used to spray dye on veg tanned leather then I tried aniline dyed leather and never went back. I've never had problems with Fieblings oil dye or Angelus rubbing off. After drying it needs to be buffed. Dye is relatively cheap. What do you mean you are not set up for VOC? I just use it with out a set up.

Yeah, expensive at 80 bucks. It goes into a lot of detail and she has the patterns which you can download and she will answer questions. Rocky Mountain Leather has free shipping in USA. Maybe discount to Canada? YouTube and cheap leather for prototypes should be your best friends. Good luck.

The only book you mentioned that I'd recommend is Nigel's. Ellen Valentine has an excellent book with patterns and detailed how-to information and she is willing to answer questions. RML offers free shipping. It ain't cheap but eliminate two of the three books you mentioned and put the money toward Ellen's. Al Stohlman has an excellent book on bag and case making. It is great for showing you how to make straps and handles.

The high-end bag makers have a proprietary edge paint. I hear Hermes uses something by Stahl.

The eye of the needle is oblong and the knot and thread makes it go from. 0.8 mm to 1.6 mm. You are going through a round 1 mm hole. Do the math. A square peg won't go through a round hole but a round peg will go through a square hole. Use angled irons and maybe an awl and you won't have that problem and your stitching will go more smoothly and look much better. Look at all that clunky Russian work with round holes and compare it to a true slanted saddle stitch. I use KS Blades' irons which have teeth that are 1.6 and 1.8 mm wide and make a slit. I use .45 mm thread.

Huh? Is that what I said or are you saying something else? I punch like I drive, straight, looking at the road/line in front of me.

Most folks use a filleteuse machine and melt it on. Rubbing hard wax is just rubbing hard wax gunk. build up. Use a hot butter knife or the back of a spoon heated up. Try paraffin rather than bee's wax.

Are you punching horizontally from left to right.? You are on the line but it's obviously coming out the other end awry. I'd bet money that you are not holding them plumb. Maybe you have crooked-eye? I can see the width of your chisel in blocks and can almost count the number of teeth on the tool. If you are a horizontalist it is impossible to see if they are slightly cocked from front to back, which would result in what I see happening. In other words, mark your line and have it facing to and fro and punch moving away from you so you can sight down the line. You may want to think about using an awl to open up those holes on the back of the piece. You have a giant hole vs small one. May make your stitching look better and go smoother. I assume you are gluing your work together? I don't believe it is an issue with your under surface. I punch on whatever is in reach, a log off-cut, silicone mat and 6 oz. leather. I glued together two pieces of five ounce leather. I scribed a line on the front and back. I used a 9 tooth iron. The pictures show the backside. Top photo was done punching from left to right. The holes missed the line on the backside and looks similar to yours. The bottom photo I punched moving away from me while sighting the verticalness of my iron. The holes came out the back on the same line as they went in. Let us know iffin ya figure it out.

Harry Rogers on YouTube has been doing a shoe project.

I sometimes melt wax into the cracks and crevices. I use Columbus brand in black, brown, red, blue and green.

Show us the knife!

Have you thought about using Tokonole to burnish the flesh side rather than a lining? Leather lining is higher end than cloth. You are asking this question quite prematurely when you haven't even began working with leather.