mike02130

In my experience with metal, especially smooth items like chrome, the chrome needs to be sanded so the glue can adhere. I'm guessing the issue isn't with the glue sticking to the leather, rather, it's not sticking to the chrome. Before messing up your chrome, I would try smearing some silicone caulk on the leather and smoosh it down. Try it on a scrap piece of leather first. Shouldn't damage the chrome.

I agree with Tugadude, on all things. Stitch groovers are usually used on western saddle work and the like. I know people who've said than linen and cotton thread can wear out faster than polyester on a wallet. So I've heard. You may want to take a blow dryer and melt that wax on the thread. Hammer down your stitches.

Groovy light show.

It's 3-phase, has a clutch rather than a servo motor and pick up in Oklahoma. That's why the price is so low.

Experiment and find out for sure. Glue two scraps together and try it.

Maybe here? https://www.buckleguy.com/rivets/ They also sell a press and the dies.

1, You used .6 leather x 2 = 1.2 mm, correct? 2, Is that center piece just hanging there with glue? No stitching at all? 3, Are there no hidden pockets behind the card holders? 4, Where are you thinking about stitching across? 5, Is there a reason that you didn't carry the stitching around the top corners? 5, Did you line the card slots? Lately I've been dicking around making some wallets with Buttero and Arlan chevre (sounds fancier than goat). It's pretty dainty work. I use some Saphir Medaille d’Or wax and spit shine it and then buff with a horse hair brush. It really brings out the color on the Buttero.

Go down to a bowling alley and have the shoe rental guy spray them for you.

Ahhh Crap!

How much did you pay?

When making handbag handles an wallets and watch bands I use a form to bend and glue. A dog collar has a larger radius, I wouldn't bother with the form. The only way you'll know is to do it.

Since you are saying this to the group and not direct messaging Danne I would like to ask what subjects did you learn that are best avoided?

Some thoughts, As a user of Japanese woodworking chisels and Japanese high carbon steel kitchen knives I find that Japanese water stones work better than diamond or other stones. They are softer steels than Hitachi white and blue steels found in better Japanese leather knives. My Japanese leather knives are both white and blue steel. Both are very hard steel. I find it difficult to use my Japanese stones without tiring and wearing down the stones and my arms. I prefer DMT diamond stones from coarse to extra fine then on to a Spyderco ultra fine ceramic stone and strop with white compound. I find the steel is too hard for the green (same with D2). I'm not one of these anal types looking at edges under a super microscope and while I respect others' opinions I usually don't give a damn for I know what I know works for me. I really see no logical reason to use sandpaper unless one can not afford to buy a sharpening stone. One can pick up a new two sided India stone for twenty bucks and is easier, more convenient and cheaper than sandpaper. If one is to state a fact then they ought to back that up with some information supporting that assertation. It disheartens me to see such bickering here. Has "wokeness" and "cancel-culture" now infiltrated this forum? Knock it off and let's learn somethings concerning leather work.

Keep in mind that stropping does not sharpen. Most if not all new tools need sharpening. They may cut but they still need work. Most noticeable with skiving knives. I bought a new single edged Chartermade blade for my L'indispesable knife. It was sharp but not sharp enough. I worked it on a series stones starting with coarse. Most knives don't meet at the point of the cutting edge (apex). If that is the case you have a couple of options, 1, start with a coarse stone and work your way through the grits to get and maintain a flat bevel. 2, tip the blade so that you are putting a secondary bevel on the blade. I prefer #1. I see more people rounding over the edge by improperly stropping--seen too many barber movies. Once you have a flat edge, find the sweet spot that your edge so it lies flat on the strop and with your index finger on the blade pull it along the strop keeping the edge flat at all times. Go slowly. At the end of the pull stop and lift your blade straight up. Do not round it up. How soft is the leather on your strop? Many folks use too soft of a leather on them. Soft leather does a back sharpen--for lack of a better description--and rounds the edge. Other than Cordovan, compressed horse butt and kangaroo leather are considered the best. I use horse butt. Don't gunk it all up with compound. I primarily use different grades of compounds on a piece of MDF. It sounds like it may be time to break out the stones.

It has all good reviews but who are the reviewers and how much did they use the tool? You do know it is for narrow leather, right? A 4" panel may be impossible to split properly. Make sure you come back and give a review. I've been think about getting an Osborne splitter. Check this out. https://www.etsy.com/listing/940166393/large-leather-scraper-pro-85-inch-manual?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_a-craft_supplies_and_tools-tools_and_equipment-tools-other&utm_custom1=_k_CjwKCAiAhbeCBhBcEiwAkv2cY0tyxlKJiYppwlU-WORO8N4XHKB2BtF6ry2iL_gWyRX3T_XT9r2IphoCAl8QAvD_BwE_k_&utm_content=go_1730729683_66599076886_337577547594_aud-1184785539978:pla-295604191622_c__940166393_341575128&utm_custom2=1730729683&gclid=CjwKCAiAhbeCBhBcEiwAkv2cY0tyxlKJiYppwlU-WORO8N4XHKB2BtF6ry2iL_gWyRX3T_XT9r2IphoCAl8QAvD_BwE

Dude, knock it off. Quit your virtue signaling. sbrowm said, "That's fine but we were talking about the quality of Chinese made tools, not your particular biased politics". sbrown also said, "If you were to go onto Alibaba.com and look at the vast amount of top end machinery that's made in China you might have a more open mind" "Look" is the key word here. They may look shiny and pretty but do they work and last and offer any tech support? Feel free to DM me if you feel the need to drag this on more. I don't think this is the place for your attack's and defensiveness.

In my experience, when it says European it means its from Eastern European countries. The better producing countries always have the country of origin. It's a damn good price. Come back here and give a review of the stuff.

Here is a tool set to make unsewn dog collars. You could eliminate the slot punch and use an 1/8" punch to punch two holes at a distance and then cut the slot out with a knife.

My mind is not open to supporting totalitarian countries with questionable labor practices, mass surveillance and forced labor in order to save a few bucks. Not to mention many more questionable practices.

Not much is good. Certainly not the greatest.

He's doing cowboy stuff. Gotta have a skinning knife. How else is he going to get the leather off the beast?

Wow, that's quite the list. I'm really not as bad as I sound. I make women's handbags and smaller items using 1-4 ounce leather. Your wants and my work are sort of at opposite ends. I do make a pretty damn good belt, though. There are plenty of other westen-type workers here that can guide you better than I. When you get into my "genre" I can be of more assistance. Hmm, a thousand bucks huh. Your covid check come in? Good luck and have fun.

Send it back. Look here, https://wickett-craig.com/leathers/show-harness/ https://www.buckleguy.com/Search.html#/Search.html?search=harness+leather&category=F232 Oh, you're in Canada.

You say you've been learning what tools to get. Well, what are they? So many answers are possible. Do a search or start watching videos and take notes. Define your budget and long term goals. The better the question--the better the answer. Help us help you. I can't speak for all, but spoon feeding is frowned upon. First tool tip is, do not buy a kit from eBay or Amazon.

What he said.