Leather Bum

I would also like to quickly recommend another source for stamping tools. I believe Siegel of California (www.siegelofca.com) as well as Hidecrafter Leather Company (www.hidecrafter.com) sell a lot of stamping tools that are of higher-quality than Craftools. The tools I've bought from them seem to be made by either Kyoshin Elle or Craft Japan, and I prefer the quality of these stamps over most of my Tandy (Craftool) stamps. L'Bum

IMO, you are exactly right. Of course, unless the resist is really strong or you apply several coats, the stain will probably still color the leather somewhat. But I've never known it to have the contrast I want: either it is too light where I want it dark (tool impressions etc. aren't colored much), or it is too dark where I want it light (plain, un-tooled, raised areas end up stained too dark). You know, I'm not really sure on that one. I'm thinking a wool douber, wool scrap, or sponge would work for coverage everywhere. I've never really sprayed finishes, but I'll bet it works well. A wood-block type of method (like block-dying?) would give good results if I could always get the resist only where I want it -- e.g. on the seeds but not on the low areas of a flower center. If you have a resist down first and want the stain to just dry mostly on the top surface of the leather, then I'd say to carefully use paper towels or maybe a small, folded cloth to keep from swiping it out of the lower areas. However, if the stain can soak into the leather (there isn't something resisting it) and color it, I think removing all of the excess from the leather would be best -- to keep it from just drying on top since it may not all soak in. For this, I would try a towel/cloth of some sort to remove most of the stain/antique; then use a wool scrap to remove the stain from the cuts and other tool impressions.

Ah yes, this is one of my favorite leathercraft topics. . . But remember, I'm no expert; I just have a few thoughts. Though I've never used the Lexol this way (actually, I've never owned Lexol), it seems to me like a good idea; my thinking is that it seems good to kind of replenish the oils in the leather after casing/tooling. Now IMHO, here is where stains and dyes are somewhat confused. Did you mean, "spray/sponge your dye on"? As far as I know, one of the differences between dyes and stains is that dyes penetrate and color the leather pretty uniformly (or they should), whereas stains -- while they do color the leather -- dry slower and tend to highlight the impressions or other marks in the leather. Another important difference is that there aren't very many leather products that can keep a dye from soaking into the leather (that I know of at least ), while many finishes (Super/Satin Shene, Bee Natural RTC, Leather Sheen, Tan Kote, etc.) will (in differing degrees sometimes) "resist" or keep stain from soaking into and coloring the leather. So to me, it makes more sense to use a dye first followed by either a stain (to accentuate the carving, while at the same time darkening all the leather) or a finish (resist) and then maybe a stain. . . That sounds about like what most people recommend. . . However, I'm never sure what is meant by the phrase, "wipe off the excess antique, and allow to dry." Here's my thinking: if you put a resist all over the leather (carving), does this not, in effect, resist the stain? But if you resist the stain, it can't soak into and color the leather, right? So if you then "wipe off the excess antique," there isn't any left to dry -- unless, of course, you only remove the antique from the raised areas, allowing it to stay in the tool depressions (beveled, pear-shaded, veined, etc. areas) and dry. And that is where the trouble (for me, anyway :) begins; because if the stain does not soak into the leather, it can sometimes crack and come off the surface of the leather if it is bent -- it never soaked in much, so it's just sitting there on top.

It looks like you did a sweet job on that one JWU. Great work! What kind of leather did you use for the lining and edge? And what did you use to cut the binding leather after you sewed it to the edge (you know, the extra stuff on the inside)? L'Bum

Here's a 483.4 KB pdf of the Henley Swivel Knife information; I don't know what the website was. It does appear as though they have good prices though. . . HenleySK.pdf HenleySK.pdf

Ok, what I'd like to know is this: what is the difference between a genuine bone folder and a synthetic bone folder -- which one is better? The genuine one costs more, but if they both work the same, why not get the synthetic one? Also, there are a number of rivets listed on page 17 of the Siegel of California End of Year Special flyer; but I don't know what the sizes are for any of them! As to the copper rivets, how does one determine what size setter to use on them? And what about this snap? What do the size measurements indicate on this type of hardware? Finally (for now), does anyone have experience with the C.S. Osborne Lace Cutter? Thanks for info on any of this. L'Bum

On the front page of the Tippmann website, it says, "All of our machines are made in the factory in Fort Wayne, Indiana." So I think we can safely say that the Boss is indeed made in the USA. Thankfully, not everyone has fallen to the level of those who outsource their product manufacturing to China; yet more and more companies seem to be heading in this direction. . .

Hey thanks, Art. You know, I found out that Brownells carries it too. . . Maybe I can get a checkering file and Ballistol at the same time. . .

Hey thanks everyone for the helpful replies! I think I'll see about maybe getting some of the Ballistol. . . Where might it be found, I wonder? L'Bum

Well, after looking at both pieces. . . it certainly seams to me that the wallet with the skull has the nicer-looking stitches -- but not by much. I think they're both great. And actually, I kind of like the bound edges the way they are; it's sort of like a neat border around the piece. . . L'Bum

Wow, that's really a great-looking holster! I'm impressed with how well you've molded the leather around the gun. . . What weight leather is good for this? I really like that type of holster. . . L'Bum

Yes, that is a stunning bit of work there, Romey. Now, it looks like you built up the thickness of the sheath to allow the handle to fit inside, too. . . I'm thinking maybe it's something like two or three strips of thick veg-tan the width of the border glued and then sewn on top of each other all around the edge. . .? How is that done? Anyway, it all looks very fine to me. :D L'Bum

Thanks, Skip! It looks like a good upholstery-leather source. . . It looks like they'll sell as little as a single hide of upholstery leather, but I'm not sure of the minimums for the others. . . L'Bum

Ok, I'm wondering a few things about the metal leather handtools. Does oiling tools help keep the metal from rusting? Also, what type of oil is good to use on leatherwork tools, since it's possible the oil will at some point get on the leather? The type of tools that I would think needed oiling sometimes are ones such as wing dividers, swivel knives, rotary punches, etc. -- tools that have sliding metal components. I'd like to know how to properly keep tools from rusting and what oil to use on them. L'Bum

Yeah, I think you did an excellent job on those oak leaves -- both the tooling and coloring. What pear-shader/thumbprint did you use anyway? Wow, did you hand-dye all the beveling on the outside of the leaves around the standing horse? Very nice. . . L'Bum

Well, Kevin, that's one of the coolest ways of making a wallet I've ever seen! Thank you very much for taking the time to show us how you do it. I was curious how you put together that neat, bound edge; now I think I know. . . It's fascinating how you give the long pockets such a clean edge too (hidden stitches, not just glue). I have a question: how did you put the snaps on after sewing in the pockets?! Also, what leather do you use for the pockets? Thanks again; you did a great job on all of it! L'Bum

Kate, That's an excellent demonstration! I like how you curved the cuts on the acorn cups. . . I think you did a really nice job on the whole thing. But, as I'm always interested in staining techniques, I have a question: how exactly did you antique it to get that nice dark color in all the pear-shaded areas and other impressions? Thank you very much for taking the time to do this. . . L'Bum

Wow, thank you for giving that explanation! It's a very interesting process. . . I've always liked that light shine ("satin" shine, maybe?) that you see on leather items like yours. It's an excellently-carved saddle. . . Thanks again, L'Bum

Ah yes. . . I think they're upside down and out of order right now . Here's a GIF I found: Hebrew "Alefbet". As you might notice, Hebrew is written backwards from English, so the first letter, "alef," is on the upper right. . . I really don't know anything about this, heheh, and it doesn't make much sense to me. . . I think Vera might actually be one of the best people here to comment on this topic. . . L'Bum

That's a great idea Pete! Does the leather need to be kind of on the wet side for this to work? Thanks for the tip. . . L'Bum

Well your saddles certainly are some of the nicest-looking saddles of which I've seen pictures. Very cool, indeed. You say you burnish the carving. . . Could you explain how that's done? In fact, I'd like to know what the entire finish process is, from beginning to end, if you don't mind; I really like that look. . . Thanks for sharing such great work, L'Bum

Here's a link to the Pecard website: Pecard Website. I've never used Pecard leather products, and I don't know what they contain. . . Montana Pitch-Blend, on the other hand, lists their ingredients right on their website (so you don't have to buy it to find out): Montana Pitch-Blend Website. L'Bum

:biggrin: Well that's a pretty funny set of pictures. . . Is it really a backpack? L'Bum

Hey Al, welcome to Leatherworker.net; this is really a pretty nice forum, as I'm sure you've found. I'm not sure what type of leather work you're interested in, but here are a couple links to some leather resources in New York; I've only bought from one of them, so I don't really have much experience with them. You (and others) might want to check them out for colorful garment-weight leather. . . Global Leathers Leather, Suede, Skins L'Bum

Weeell, actually, if this is the book you're referring to, then it looks like it's by Al Stohlman. . . Pictorial Carving Finesse by Al Stohlman L'Bum