klutes

Thanks for the information

Didn’t mean anything other than I have looked on line to no vail. Just saying they certainly aren’t everywhere.

Hmm they must be hard to find.

Does anyone know of a supplier in the states for either of these products? Hopefully good quality items. Money clip bottle opener firemen quick release belt buckle

thanks for the offfer GLen. So with the parts issue should I not get this machine and get a large bobbin singer. Haven’t made the trip to get it yet.

Yea it’ s not really that bad of a trip.

Been some what looking for a Adler 30-7 machine for a little over a year. Finally found one close enough and priced ok. Going to pick it up this Saturday. Gentleman that used it passed away last year and it is now for sale. Glad to get it just hate under those circumstances. But it suppose to be dirty from setting for a year but complete and in sewing condition. About 7 hour drive to get it. That will make two Adlers that I will have. This one and a 69. Anxious to get it. Now just need one more. Lol

You told me that before. I have been looking around for a adler close to me to go look at and try out. Not many around

I have read a lot on here about the older patcher sewing machines as far as pros and cons of them and each to his own. My question is what about the new ones such as the CB 29 and others . Are they any better as far as sewing and stitching than the old ones?

Thanks guys for your response. I was thinking it was a little on the light size just wanted to confirm since I wasn’t familiar with this machine. It was close and priced right so I thought it may be worth checking out.. I already have a Adler 69 for small to med. work so I will pass on it. Thanks

Is anyone here familiar with the Pfaff 345 -6c. H3LN. What size needle and thread will it handle and how thick of veg tan will it handle. I just found reasonably close to Me and wanted to know your thoughts before I drive to look at it. Suppose to be complete and in good sewing order?.

I use the,alcohol based dye just because that’s what I started out with years ago and see no reason to change. Sorry but that’s why.

I am wet forming bowls. No tooling and I always dye first. Pro dye.

I will be following this one. Thanks for asking.

All the leather seals that I have seen I believe to be veg tan. Once you let people here you are located I am sure someone would be glad to send you a piece that thickness. I know I would but it would be a couple of weeks before I would be at my place to get one out to you. I am assuming that you only need a piece 3 or 4 inch square. That would make all the seals that I have felt width. My only limitation is my splitter will only do about 4-5 inch.

Good looking floor. The space should make you a great working area.

You often read where people are using a suede type leather to line a holster. Correct me if I am wrong but isn’t suede leather chrome tanned? Always was taught to not line knife sheaths and holster with anything that’s was chromed tanned due to causing it to rust. What do you use.

I was having the same issues. When I did it the way most utube suggest I was not happy with the results. I wanted a more precise even finished look each time. I found that having the exact length rivet each time and a way to spread and dome the finished rivet was essential. Too short / long and uneven cut rivet resulted in a wide variety of finished look. For most people’s desired finish look they wanted a typical hammered look I guess is ok. I didn’t want that. I wound up having to play around with the finished cut length to get the results. Too short did not leave enough material to mushroom out so to speak to hold adequately. Too long resulted in the soft rivet bending in the material (my case leather). So cutting the rivet to the exact length each time is important to determine the finished result. Also I found cutting the rivet flat helped considerably in a nice uniformed finished look. I also wound up making a round concaved tool to fit my rivet press. That way I had a controlled amount of downward pressure to form the finished rivet. I know this sounds like a lot to set a rivet. But I wanted a refined finished look on the rivet that I could repeat each time. It works for me but for most people that may not be needed for what they are doing. Also if you use different thickness leather each time the process start all over. But after doing it for a while you soon get the feel for how much longer the cut rivet needs to be the thicker or thinner leather. Some will say that I am going to to much trouble to just set a common rivet. But it’s all in the finished look you are trying to achieve. Like most things it’s in the details. Hope this helps

Hello from central Ky

Thanks Wiz that is the information I was looking for. Are you familiar with the a Cobra 20. Like I said up to 1/2 would be all I need . Most stuff would be /14 to 3/8. And yes 207 would be ok. If you had the Juki set up for 190 needle can it be used with smaller threads and needles. Of al the machines which would be your choice. Thanks I value your input and recommendations

What flatbed walking foot machine would you guys recommend for sewing up to 1/2 inch vegtan leather. thanks

Nice love old leather bags. Glad you put them back in usable condition

Thanks for the replys. It wouldn’t be my primary machine for sure. Has anyone tried the hand crank models . not sure what brand they are . Overseas models.

Ok thanks

Thanks guys. Wiz I can’t sew the flat seams that I am talking about on a flatbed or cyl arm. You may get one of them but not the second one. At least I can’t. That’s why the interest in the patcher.