PhilDimashq

Very nice. I made one myself recently

@Danne Hi Danne, I've seen some of your work on here and love your attention to detail, really outstanding. I recently found a tutorial of yours where you showed how you skive pockets and I've just started trying to use that method. In particular, I really like how you skive the bottom of the "arms" of the T.. when I saw that I immediately had a lightbulb moment.. think it's the solution for something that's been bugging me. Last project I finally clicked that the arms of my T should be measured for the SPI I'm using in order to line the irons up all the way. Big improvement but I could still see the T in the finished item i.e. the bottom of the arms was a visible line between each pocket. I'm doing a vertical card wallet this weekend and this time I've made the "arms" about 2 mm longer than I want. Then I've skived that 2 mm on the bottom of the T arms, and I'm overlapping each pocket by 2mm. It's glueing at the moment but looking promising and I've no visible gaps. Also this time have added about 2mm all round to my pattern and colour coded it - saw you doing this and really liked the idea. This should give me a decent trim allowance which had been something I was failing to do. In terms of my current project, I think the consensus is that the materials I have are too thick, but now I've a bit of leather to play with I'll make a prototype anyway. At the very least, it'll be some much needed sewing practise and will allow me to test the pattern and then make adjustments. I'll do some test pieces with the lining but I'd say gluing while curved will work, thanks for the tip. Given the issue with thickness, I'll burnish one side (great tip, thanks also) and line the visible side. It probably will be a phone book when finished so the next project could be making bigger pockets for my brother's jeans In terms of chevre, I've visited the alran website and there's a wide range available (oxford, caprino, chevranil etc.) I've no idea what I'm looking for so any advice on this would be great. Thanks once again for taking the time to comment and share your knowledge, All the best, Phil

@Hardrada Hi and thanks again. You're not hijacking the thread - far from it. I really appreciate you taking the time to share. I think my brother's wallet is pretty similar - they also "cheated" using fabric inside the card pockets etc. (he's not getting that zipper pocket by the way - that's just going too far !) Your photos with the vernier calipers really makes it clear how everything quickly adds up.. our wallets do end up turning into a hamburger (or a brick) pretty quickly !! I never thought of actually building a test wallet, which is a brilliant bit of advice. As I'm pretty new to this, I was approaching each project with the view that I should be producing a finished item. Then I'd adjust my patterns based on the result (the Mark I as I call them) so the next one would be an improvement. I had been buying smallish pieces and so was a bit "precious" about wasting leather. However, I bought what I think was a reasonably priced side a couple of weeks ago - €90 for 22 sqr feet. Now I've plenty to play with so I'll follow your example and make a prototype just to see what's what. I'll use the approach you recommended for the ID pocket too. Whatever way it turns out, it'll be valuable practice and a learning experience, In the long run, when I feel I'm getting reasonably good, I would love to try chevre and the nicer leathers such as those from baladassi. But for the moment, I need to keep building up my skills before I can inflict myself on the high end materials !!! I'm still waiting on the acetate for the pocket (aliexpress - could be a long wait) but when I have the wallet done I'll post it on the forum. Thanks once again, really appreciate the help and advice, all the best, Phil

@chrisash thanks

@Rahere thanks for the tip, I just hopped over to have a look Not much info on the site so I dropped them an email to see what they have, costs and so on. Thanks again, Phil

@newshoes Hi there. I'm also a beginner (started in May) and the advice already given here is great. I found Valerie MIchael's book to be a good general introduction with information on a wide range of topics. She starts with the leather itself - types tanning, the names of cuts of leather, leather weights and what they're best for. etc etc. Then she goes onto the tools, other materials, hardware etc before getting into various techniques for leather work. There's also a few projects included for different levels of ability with patterns/instructions etc. A very good introduction. Al Stohlman's book on hand stitching is invaluable. Once I got my copy it changed how I sew, helped me notice and start to fix my mistakes. It's great for tips on what to do in situations that are tricky for beginners: things like running out of thread during a line of stitching or piercing your thread. As a beginner, I have found both the videos by Nigel Armitage and Ian Aktinson to be a huge help. They are superb at their craft and really good at explaining things. Both have very good videos on stitching which would be a good place to start. Other youtube sources that I have found really useful are Terrick from Chartermade, Yun from Leathertoolz and Chuck from Weaverleather. There are many, many more, but each of these has been (and continues to be) a particular help to me. A tip on youtube which I didn't know when I started leathercrafting. You can create your own personal playlists and then save videos that you like into them. So now I have different playlists set up for videos on different topics such as stitching, tools, tutorials, techniques and so on. Very handy, like having your own video library. Best of luck, Phil

@fredk @Scoutmom103 thanks Fred and Scoutmom. I really appreciate your comments I was very discouraged when I came here just looking for advice and instead had someone attack the project I am trying to plan. Not what I expected, especially on my first post here. So thank you very much, I really appreciate your comments, it's restored a bit of my faith in humanity and this forum All the best @Hardrada Thanks for your reply. I would love a thinner leather but I'm in Ireland and the costs on ordering from RM are prohibitive. What I have now is the the thinnest leather that I've been able to source. However, that is 3 oz/1.2 mm, and if I was to make the ID pocket the way I think they're made, this would be three thicknesses of leather and as you say, impractical. But as I've never tried this before, I'm not sure if my assumptions on how to construct the pocket are correct. Maybe it is done with only two layers? Assuming you had the right materials, how would you make the ID pocket alone? Would it be three layers of leather? If yes, then I'll have to abandon that idea or the wallet will end up being like an old Yellow Pages phonebook !!! Also, any advice on my question re the lining would be much appreciated. Thanks again, Phil

That is super smart. I really like how the edge creases meet perfectly at right angles in the corners. And of course your edge painting - what can I say only exquisite

Nice dye job.. did you do this by hand or with an airbrush ?

@Rahere thank you very much for your constructive comment. I've read great things about roo hide, but can't get any where I am at a reasonable price. There's going to be an ID pocket located as per my drawing because that's what my brother has asked me for. It would be so much easier to leave it out but I'm going to try my best to do what he wants. If anything, it will be another learning experience as every project is. I've just got veg tan, and it's about 1.2mm thick. If I had lighter leather, I'd take two pieces and cut out a window in each, then sandwich the plastic in between, sew around the window and that would become the front of the pocket. This would be sewn onto a back piece, making the pocket. However, when assembled like this the pocket alone will then be 3 layers and approx 3.6 mm which will be very thick. I don't think this will work and this is why I was asking for advice on the ID pocket. Still very new to this, and the wallet shown in my post is only my eight project and first attempt at a billfold. I have done my research, looked at lots of videos and spent hours looking at other people's work but sometimes you just don't find the answers. So I dropped my question in here hoping for some guidance. I'm also unsure whether to line both sides of the cash/bills pocket and the techniques for doing so. I've seen loads of examples of finished pieces but not much "how to" so any guidance on the pros/cons of doing this and/or techniques would be greatly appreciated. All the best and thanks once again, Phil

That is beautiful, loving those colours and the edges are just wow

I'm a newbie as well and I wish I could make something as accomplished as your work. Very impressive

That is an outstanding piece of work.

Understood.

Thanks again Mike.. that one looks so much better with the pockets spaced properly. I've drawn out my basic pattern now on the computer and the spacing looks fine. Just need to figure out how to do the lining and the ID pocket and I'll be good to go.

mtlbiker, toxo, tsunasapa and paloma, thank you very much for your kind words. Paloma - I've been visiting here a while before I was brave enough to post. I have seen some of your work on here and what you do is inspiring - votre travail est exceptionnel

Hi Mike, Thanks a million, that's a lot of good advice. What you recommend re stitching is exactly what I'm doing. Wasn't sure I was right so it's good to know I'm not messing it up. Totally get what you mean about the top t-pocket space. It's one of the changes I'm planned for the new wallet. It'll have 4 card slots but will be the same size vertically (and they'll be evenly spaced I hope ) About edges, just realised my question wasn't clear. I really I was wondering how you deal with lining as it gets close to the edge? Especially at the bottom in the middle where it'll be exposed. And do folks line one or both sides of the inner? All the best, Phil

very cool, they look quite complicated but you've made them perfectly

Hi Chris, Thanks for the reply. I'm using a pricking iron, so the holes are not punched all the way through. So I have to use the awl first from the right to make the hole but it's so slim I have trouble finding the hole when coming initially from the left for my first stitch. But it seems from your explanation that using the right needle to open up the hole is not going to cause a problem which is good news for me. Thanks again

I went to a local gravestone maker and he gave me a small piece from his set of samples. Only 150 mm or 6 inches square but it's good enough for me as a beginner.

I'd be super proud if I could get a result like yours with my first attempt at tooling. I've been doing practice pieces on scraps and man is it difficult !! This is very impressive for a first go. Congrats

Hi folks, Phil from Ireland here. I'm still very new to leather work and I put up my first post yesterday to show what I've been up to so far. Spent a lot of time analyzing my results, looking at what didn't work, checking the forum for answers and following the likes of Nigel Armitage, Ian Atkinson, Terrick from Chartermade and so on. There's been some wrong turns, but generally each new item sees some improvement on the previous (even if it's only a tiny improvement) This post is about my most recent project : my first billfold, pictured below. It's made from 3 oz (1.2mm) veg tan, dyed with Fieblings pro dye, and stitched using a set of cheap 3.38mm pricking irons, an absolutely amazing awl from Kevin Lee, and 0.6mm tiger thread. For me it's my best result so far but of course there's still plenty of room for improvement. I'm planning on making another for my brother for Christmas and I've some queries that I'm hoping the good folks here on the forum might be able to help me with. I have searched for the answers to these questions without success, so if they've been asked and answered before, my apologies in advance. Lining the wallet I'd like to line the bill section on my next version and am unsure of how to do so. I've some nice thin pigskin that I think would be lovely. Here's my questions - When you line a billfold do you line both sides of the bill pocket? - How do you deal with edges ? I have seen people roll the edges all the way round but that's beyond my skill level at the moment. I'm guessing the lining is glued and cut up to the stitching line, so it's caught by the stitches but doesn't go right to the edge. However, I'm unsure what to do at the bottom of the bill pocket. This would be visible when the wallet is open (under the curved bit in the middle). T Pockets I need to check my dimensions of the t part of the t pockets so the stitches all line up and are the same size as this didn't work great in my first attempt. I've seen some projects where the stitch straddles the joint and others where the stitch falls in the gap. To my untrained mind, I think it should straddle the joint i.e. a stitch hole on either side with the thread going over the join. - Is this correct? Also, is there any difference or reason for cutting the "inner" or hidden part of the t pocket as a square shape or an angled shape? I see folks doing both and am unsure if there's a reason or it it's just down to personal preference ID Pocket I'd like to add an ID pocket for a drivers license. However, I'm unsure if the assembled pocket should be two or three layers. One option is the acetate wedged between two pieces with cut outs and then this sewn to a backing piece. The other option is the acetate just covered with a single piece with a cut out and then this sewn to a backing piece. I'm leaning toward the second simply to keep the thickness down but I'm unsure if this is a good way to do it. So if anyone has done this and can share some tips I would greatly appreciate it. Stitching I've been working on this for a while, and the new awl certainly upped my game a bit but took some getting used to. Kind of figured it out towards the end of the last project when sewing along the top and was quite happy with result on both sides. There's one sort of issue that I'd like to check. Not sure if this is a problem or not. The awl is extremely fine (1.9 mm). I sew from the right so my process normally is : awl from right, left needle through, then right needle through over thread from the left needle, cast stitch at the back (on the left) and tension However, I'm having difficulty finding the awl hole when coming with the first stitch i.e. from the left with my needle (my "blind" side). So now I'm putting the awl in from the right, then using the needle on the right to open the hole a bit before going first stitch with left needle in, then right needle etc I'm just a bit worried that doing it this way might mess up the hole on the left hand side (the "wrong" or back side) Not experienced enough to see the difference if indeed there is one, so just wanted to ask does anyone see this as a problem and if yes, what can I do about it. Sorry if this is a lot of questions but I haven't been able to find answers for these anywhere. A big thanks in advance, All the best, Phil

Neat stitching. Love the eagle stud fastener

Hi folks, I'm Phil from Ireland and I think I have a leather problem i started kind of by accident when I decided to restore an old khukri knife f back in May. The leather on the sheath was dried out and so I got some scraps from my local leather store, some gigantic tandy needles and some thread. Since then I've become hooked and I've been making bits and pieces as shown below. Lots of mistakes and hiccups, but nothing's gone in the bin (so far). I've been lurking here for a few months and I have to say a big thanks to all the contributors. You've helped me fix some mistakes, avoid some others, and the generosity of folks in sharing their knowledge is inspiring. So here's my story thus far: 1. First start to finish project - moulded sheath for my bahco folding saw. 4oz veg at back and 2oz for the front. Ecoflo dye and stitched 5 SPI with Tandy chisels, large tandy thread, and their whopper needles 2. Sheath for my axe - 4 oz veg tan stitched 5 SPI with Tandy chisels, large tandy thread, and their whopper needles. I bought an awl and after hours of sharpening it allowed me to sew through three layers including welt which was very satisfying. 3. Swiss Army knife sheath - 2 oz veg tan, Fieblings dark brown. I decided to get fancy and bought some cheap 8 SPI pricking irons. First time sewing a full item with an awl and 0.6 mm tiger thread. Unfortunately, the belt clip was too low and the stitching at the bottom wasn't great. I also thought it was too easy to pull off and I might lose it when hiking so I decided to have a do-over 4. Swiss Army sheath MK 11 - same materials as Mk 1. very happy with result, felt my stitching was going in right direction, belt loop works better for me than a clip (and it's in the right place !!) 5. First card wallet - quite happy with it, 2 oz veg again with the 8 spi and 0.6mm tiger. However, half way through I realised I should have done the pricking on the inside and sewn from that side so I could line up stitching with the t-pockets ! 6. Horseshoe purse - 2 oz veg it looks a lot better in the photo than in reality - a case of trying to run before you can walk - my first attempt at box stitching, very complicated with lots of parts, was relieved when it was finished 7. Card wallet MK 11 - 2 oz this time pricked and stitched from the inside, much happier with the results and the stitching on the "wrong side" is better than the previous one I've just finished number 8, which is a bifold and I'm going to put that up in a separate post because I have a few questions. This post is just me saying hi and thanks for everything I've learned so far from this site. All the best Phil