ButtonLady

Wow... thank you, everyone! I'll try steaming —thanks, JDFred and fredk (first from the suede side, as nstarleather suggested) and I will check out the videos toxo and jcuk recommended. EDIT: really wish I noticed spelling errors the FIRST time...

Thanks, Fred! Couldn't think of a better descriptor than "iron"...should have tried "reduce wrinkles" (duh). I'll try dampening the back and weighing it down. It's for a loose chair cushion, so leather won't be tightly stretched and wrinkles will definitely show.

I want to make a cushion out of some leftover upholstery leather but I didn't roll it properly and now it's a little crumpled. Is there a way to smooth out the wrinkles? Also, I promise to take better care of my leather.

A work of art...

You look fabulous... I have nothing further to add.

Fred, how big is your operation that you require not just one, but multiple agents??!!

That explains the headache...

I dabbled once with a few retail products, mostly custom magnets and pins made with brass or nickel rims. My big draw was that I could make them on the spot because I dragged my equipment to shows. I learned pretty quickly that (potential) customers really only care about products that represent a specific interest. For example... at a juried arts fair, the woman next to me was crazy-busy selling metal hair clips. Nothing special, I thought. She told me she bought barrette blanks from China and spot-tacked? —glued? metal charms to them that represented things like nursing, teaching, cats, etc. People came by asking, "Do you have anything for _____?" and she usually did. The vast majority were purchased for gifts. She also said she advertised nurse-themed clips in a nursing publication and sold a LOT that way. You're not necessarily going to sell something just because it's made from leather; leather is almost secondary. People seek out things that appeal to their hobbies or personalities or professions, etc. —leather might just be a bonus. If I ever attempt this again, I will cater specifically to interest-themed events (car shows, or marching band competitions, or... whatever) and only have products that appeal specifically to that. Your mileage may vary.

If set properly with a good die, the prongs are well buried. Aside from that, please note that the spots in this example are set with exceptional care (!) —the direction of the prongs is perfectly consistent: The raised center of a machine die pushes the prongs upward into the material (leather, Biothane, etc.): Prongs that are just flattened? Absolute total agreement with you.

These really are gorgeous, and I love that you've already developed your "brand" strap pattern and logo design. Drooling over the lining fabrics, too...

You said it! This is the best show around —thank you so much for sharing this journey with us, Woehlk.

I am CRAVING some good bread-and-butter pickles right now...

Looks like they also stock Scovill's DOT line ("Baby" 20L and "Durable" 24L).

Wow... if "Aristocrat" isn't the exact same pattern, then it's very VERY close!

Leatherhub has something similar, but nothing exactly the same. Seems like something he might like to develop, though —can't hurt to ask!

The brass looks so nice against those gorgeous warm tones, especially since there's no bling to distract your eye —it only compliments the excellent workmanship.

"Plain" is a lot harder because you can't hide your mistakes with bling... Really nice work! Do you use standard release, or soft "EZ" release snap sockets for holsters? The lighting makes it look like.. brass? The old one is nickel?

Looks like they stock Scovill's DOT line ("Baby" 20L and "Durable" 24L). Not sure about the magnetic snaps, though...

Greetings, fellow Masshole! Assuming you're talking about "industrial"-type ring spring snaps: Post width should always be the same. Extra long post lengths are available for #24. Scovill DOT makes an extra short #20 post, but not extra long. You need better snaps! I have Fasnap, DOT, and Osborne on hand —I'll mail some samples if you provide your address via message. Not really familiar with other types of snaps, but working on it. I set snaps with a press, either Fasnap PM5 or Osborne (taking a break from doing it right now, in fact).

Oooh... pretty! Any problems with not crushing the domed end?

Missed the edit window: It's possible these "spots" are actually rivets added after stitching. Maybe even Chicago screws —can they be called "conchos" if they're that small? Either way, I think the biggest issue would be punching a neat, well-placed pilot hole.

I know... right? So... shiny... It is a journey of discovery —glad to have you along.

Thank you for weighing in! This is a fascinating subject —it's the reason I joined the forum. Here's a dog collar from Karma Collars: https://karmacollars.com/collections/designer-bling-custom-handmade-leather-dog-collars/products/zion Prongs are exposed but points are buried in the leather... only possible with a die. Machine-set, I assume —is there such a thing as a hand-set die that does this? For those just learning (like me), here's an example of a machine die: https://allstarco.com/en/setting-tools/6831-die-for-preset-rhinestones-bedazzler.html#/206-size-5mm The raised center of the left (bottom) die pushes the prongs upward into the material. I tried a machine die from a Chinese manufacturer (Dot-Gas), and all it did was flatten the prongs. Really disappointing (sizing was off, too... different story). So... on to horse tack. I revisited the Biothane tack link from last year: https://www.twohorsetack.com/p-29-bling-beta-biothane-western-bridle-with-full-browband.aspx Rhinestone spots on the reins are exposed/points buried, but presumably the rest is lined —because there is visible stitching? Is it possible to set spots in the top layer and then stitch THAT CLOSE to them? Same thing with leather, too. This example was clearly set after sewing because spots are covering the stitching... but presumably it's lined (?): https://www.dreamtimecreations.com/page/bling-for-equestrian/ There's a LOT I don't know about this.

If the set is clean and smooth, and there's nothing exposed that would cause irritation... sure! Rivet caps have a nice finish. I have learned (since starting this thread a year ago...) that 2-prong spots tend to have stronger and longer prongs (claws?) than 4-prong spots. They are the only type that will penetrate collar-thick leather. I have also (since then) tried setting metal and rhinestone spots: You are spot (ha! ) on. I am by no means an expert, but at least I understand now what you're describing. Machine setting forces prong points into the leather due to the shape of the die. Hand setting creates prongs that "are just bent over and flattened really well" ...at least for 2-prongs. 4-prong spots are thinner and don't flatten as well when set by hand (in my oh-so-humble opinion) —they're designed more for fabric and thinner materials, and to be set with a die. You are far more talented than I can ever hope to be... Chris Mantz has some nice templates for spots and rhinestones. Here's the website I couldn't remember before: https://www.tacktemplates.com/online-store/Spot-Setting-Template-p81157850