TomE

Work of art! Beautiful craftsmanship.

A raised leather strap is typically made by splitting the strap and inserting a leather filler strip. The top/grain side is thin (~2-3 oz) so it conforms to the filler strip and the bottom of the split is thicker and serves as a flat platform. I make raised leather straps from bridle leather with a pasted back, but you could split 2 straps or add a thin liner if you want grain showing on both sides. The layers are glued together before sewing the edges. The width of the top cover is decreased by wrapping over the filler strip so the edges of the strap will need to be trued up after it is assembled. Depending on the height/shape of the filler you might need to start with a wider strap if you're machine sewing so the pressor feet have a place to land then trim the margins after sewing. An inline or narrow pressor foot helps with sewing next to the raised element. It takes some practice with splitting, shaping, sewing, and trimming to make raised elements. Also, the pictured belt violates a cardinal rule of strap making - don't stitch across the width of the strap - although this is often seen in manufactured dress belts.

One of my favorite skiving knives is this cheap knockoff https://a.co/d/58YIeFR. I did reprofile the blade before we became friends. It holds an edge reasonably well, especially for what it cost. My other favorites are rounded blades including an Osborne #67 and a Dozier half round knife. So my philosophy is there are a lot of tools that will do the job and I just need to work on the blade until I'm happy with it.

Harry Rogers also has a book on hand making shoes. Haven't made any but it's entertaining to read. https://www.amazon.com/MAKING-HANDMADE-SHOES-STEP-STEP/dp/B0BM57TF35

The best sources of bridle leather made in the USA are Hermann Oak and Wickett & Craig. I have more experience with HO bridle, which is firmer than W&C in my experience. I have been pleased with HO purchased from Springfield Leather and Beiler's. I have purchased W&C bridle directly from them, and Beiler's also sells it. For making tack, I typically get good straps more than half way down a side of HO bridle. Look at the cost/sq. ft. for the bends vs. a side. I consider the shoulder and belly to be free leftovers from a side, and I use them for smaller projects.

We've used repair snaps for nylon halters but I hadn't seen repair buckles. Aaron Martin also has repair type heel bar buckles in 3/4" and 1." Good info.

Abbey England sells Equus grips with either large pips or small pips. The small pips are more grippy and seem to be preferred by the riders I know. I suspect the large pips will last longer. I have been pleased with the quality. Note that the size refers to the width of the leather strap that the grip fits over. I mostly use 5/8" grips and the rubber grip is about 3/4" wide.

@bruce johnson will hopefully see this and share his expertise.

Good looking construction and finish work. Very nice.

Thank you all for your kind comments. My neice says she uses the machete often and the sheath will keep her safer than the nylon cover she had been using. She ties the machete to her pack when not in use.

Well this turned out kind of clunky, but it's the best I could come up with for this blade. My first sheath, for my niece the archeologist. She does underground imaging of old and new objects and sometimes bushwhacks her way to work. I sharpened the blade so she will also be ready for a zombie apocalypse.

The Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal's online store has books and DVDs(?) on various carving techniques.

Like the unique artwork. Very pretty. The edges could be more finished. Shaping the rounded corners on a drum or belt sander before edging, sharpening/stropping the edger to get a clean even bevel, a bit more burnishing work. Thanks for posting.

That's outstanding (may I say awesome?) work. Makes me think about taking up smoking. How did you cover the button? What is the cord made of and how did you dye it? Thanks for sharing.

Thanks. Just tedious work. All's well that ends well. I am told there's a robust market for replacing these zippers on boots costing $300-$500+. This one was learning/practice done for a friend. I think I'd charge $80 for the repair. About 1 hr per boot with the hand sewing. Not sure if a patcher could sew around the heel end of the zipper. I used a small cylinder arm machine to finish sewing the sides. Thanks, @Dwight. Another fellow pointed me to a strong adhesive basting tape sold by Wawak sewing supplies. It appears to be heavier tape than the double sided tape sold by office supplies. If it works it would be faster than glueing. Thanks, Ron. Yes, they scare me too. I think with the basting tape I mentioned above I might be able to place the closed zipper in the boot, avoiding wrinkles especially near the heel, then open the zipper to sew it in place.

Pit of despair. Sewing a zipper into the heel of a riding boot. First time installing a zipper. I welcome your tips and advice. My double stick tape didn't stick to the leather so I used a dab of Barge cement on the bottom and binder clips to hold the zipper for sewing. I hand sewed the zipper into the heel then used a machine for the rest.

Bob Klenda sells chaps patterns from his saddle shop. https://www.klendasaddlery.com/patterns.html I think I read that he recently has published a book on chaps making that he hopes will be used as a textbook in leathercraft classes.

Typically have to prove gross negligence to claim liability. Since she had a snow removal service treat her driveway she has a good case. We have guests sign a liability release that explains the risks when trying out a horse or pony on our property, but we are still liable for "gross negligence." We require a helmet, have our trainer present during the ride, etc.

Yes, my current protocol is to use light mineral oil and clean with dish washing liquid and a nylon brush as needed. Will try the dry run.

Thanks. It will be fun to experiment with this. OK, but now I've got to see for myself. Can't help it. - a retired scientist

Curious about using a dry Arkansas stone. Is there an advantage over oiling the stone? I thought the oil helps prevent clogging with debris. Thanks for the info.

No complaints. That's top drawer craftsmanship.

Nice work. The artwork and color are very attractive.

Thank you for these resources. Your website looks like a very interesting read. Will enjoy browsing through it later today.

Does togo leather have a "grippy" feel? Sort of like a gum eraser? A friend bought an $$$$ dressage saddle that has a matte finish and a soft, grippy feel. The saddle maker Erreplus says it is made from Italian bull leather (not to be confused with the Italian Stallion ) and that it will retain this grippy texture with use. I am interested in learning more about the tanning process for this leather. Sorry to highjack this post.