Mulesaw

@Pdm25150 Good to hear that you beat the heart attack, and nice job on those zippers. Cutting into something expensive is always a daunting task. Did you also install those "don't chafe the upper part of the heel flaps"? They look really good too. brgds Jonas

@RockyAussie The actual company ceased to exist quite some years ago, and the successor company only deals with the Pedersen milling machines. I wrote them about a year ago due to some questions on an old Pedersen sewing machine. But never got an answer. Based on my experience as a marine engineer (there is a whole lot of different hydraulic systems on a ship), I'd suggest that you use either a grade 32 or 46 oil for the hydraulic system. The higher grade if you operate in very warm climates (+ 40 degrees Celsius continuously). My reasoning is that the mechanism has to return fairly fast, and that necessitates a fairly thin oil. I have never seen a clicker press in real life, only on Youtube, and based on how it moves it seems as there is basically just a piston to move the clicker part. And any hydraulic oil will move a piston, but only a thing one will drain fast enough for a spring to return the piston to the start position. I would guess that a skilled hydraulic mechanic could troubleshoot and potentially fix the problem without having the manual. Without having seen your machine, I guess there is some sort of solenoid valve that need to register that your hands are out of harms way before it will press. If any of these don't get the signal, they'll stay open and let oil bleed through back to they hydraulic tank. So it might be an electrical fault. But I am just guessing here. What is the problem that you are experiencing? lack of power, or no movement or slow movement or something else? This company (I found them while searching for a manual) have at least two Pedersen 282 in this (old) video. Perhaps they have a manual that they would share with you? Brgds Jonas

@RockyAussie I tried a bit more Googlin. This member had a manual, the thread is not super old, so maybe it was worth sending a message to him and see if he still has it, or maybe if he saved a pdf of it. Brgds Jonas

I just tried Googling if there was any information in Danish, but sadly nothing came up. My best guess would be to contact Sieck in Germany and see if they have any information on the machine. Good luck Brgds Jonas

Welcome :-) Nice looking bag. Brgds Jonas

@Coloradoguy I think you need to find a sharpening service that does carpentry machines. Maybe your local cabinetmaker has got a grinding machine for sharpening blades for a jointer/planer. (I do but Denmark is a bit far away from you) I tried googling sharpening services in Omaha Nebraska, and a company called Loveless Sharpening looks like the place that could do the job for you. http://lovelessmachine.com/Pages/home.aspx please note that I am in no way affiliated with them, I don't know them or the quality of their work, but a shop that can sharpen a paper knife for the book cutting industry would also know (and have the machinery) for sharpening a skiver blade. Good luck Brgds Jonas

@WMages Good question, I guess it depends on how you want to make your holsters. There is a skiving knife on a 5 in 1 that will make a skived edge alongside a curved edge, so that could be a solution if it is something you already do, or perhaps it could be something that can set your holsters apart from others? The cutting wheel like you mention could potentially help. Could you perhaps borrow the 5 in 1 from your friend, and make a couple of test pieces to see if it is something that would suit you?, make a scabbard and a couple of holsters and try to use it for all those things that you can think of, if the completed item looks better than your normal product, or if you found it easier, then I'd say go ahead. But if it just ad complexity to the process and no real gain, then you have tried it and knows that it won't work for you. Another thing that you might consider, is that you can always try to sell the 5 in 1 again if you don't like it. you might loose a bit of cash, but I think the value of those machines won't change much even if you use it for a couple of months. Brgds Jonas

I always get that same feeling around old tools. It makes me feel privileged, that today, many of us are able to do something for a hobby, that was once the bread and butter for a family. Genuine wear adds a certain beauty to many things. Brgds Jonas

Looks pretty good I'd say. I am signing off the ship Wednesday, When I get home I'll take a look to see if I can make a drawing of the missing stitch length regulator for you. Brgds Jonas

@Kbeldam I can't say for sure, but I am pretty sure that they are either #9 or #12. I am uncertain if the rivets are iron or copper, so you just have to substitute 1:1 You can measure the diameter of the hole in the stirrup bar, and that should be the diameter of the rivet. I would guess that you need a rivet that is at least 3/4" long, given that it has to go through the tree and the stirrup bar, but again that is something that you can measure. Without having seen your saddle, I am more worried about why it came loose in the first place? To my knowledge it isn't a common thing to come loose, so please check the tree very carefully to see that there isn't a crack of some other damage that has caused the stirrup bar to come loose. The stirrup bars carry a lot of weight, so if one fails e.g. during a jumping competition, someone might get hurt. Do you have a picture of the saddle with the tree exposed that you could post? Brgds Jonas

Looks very good. I like the diamond shaped strap holders. They are a really nice touch. Brgds Jonas

First, welcome to the forum :-) I have no clue what price you can command for the saddle bags, since it varies greatly from country to country. But take into account that if you sell it for XX $, and suddenly a friend of the person who bought them wants a set just like it, then you either need a good excuse like familiarly price or similar to not sell a set for the same amount to he next person. And if you think that would be to little, well - then you should sell the first set for more. (I hope it makes sense). Critique: There are a few places on the front and back panels that show the light coloured inside. Those would benefit form some black colouring (like your edge paint). The inside of the lid flaps, could also be painted, but that is just a more of a personal choice. I can't see how the bags should be attached to the bike (I'm assuming they are for the triangle near the rear wheel). This could be something that you have already discussed with the buyer, so it might not be a big deal. But if they are to be fixed with some sort of strap, then I'd attach two pieces on the back of each bag that the straps can go through. The stamp pattern looks good to me, and I like that it is only on the front panel, it gives a visual interest compared to if it was all over the bag. I like that the diagonal cut of the closing straps is mirrored, not that anyone would see the bike from both sides at the same time, but it shows that you have thought about it. Brgds Jonas

Beautiful machine! There is just something about those big nickel plated flywheels that look so good. And keeping it inside the house will give the rest of the family a chance to hear the sound of you using it

I managed to get my finger caught in a rotating bit on a spindle moulder. That didn't look so pretty. But nothing was really harmed, so just a bit more scars to the collection. :-) I have always been a bit scared of the Z-blades for the moulder, those things are aggressive, once a board got caught while I was shifting it around, smashed the end into a wall and made a big dent in the mortar covered wall.

@mbnaegle ouch.. That is some really ice cold thinking under pressure, to be able to tell someone quietly that they need to step on the pedal to loosen the brake and getting them to back the handwheel!. Kudos to your dad! I agree completely with the problems of making things safer without messing up the utility. Brgds Jonas

Thanks Tom, I had seen that continuation sewing somewhere on this forum, and I immediately liked it, Brgds Jonas

Glad to be able to help :-) The Tandy Paper pattern pack is a bit different from this one. Most noticeably is the shape of the yoke for the shotgun patterns. On the old (pdf) pattern the yokes are much more dramatic. I haven't compared the actual leg patterns, but I think they are pretty alike, at least the measuring instructions are similar, so they should end up fitting well. Brgds Jonas

@UnderTheRedMoon Hmm, if your character needs to be able to use the scimitar, then tying a lot of leather (braided and strips) to the pommel will just get in the way. Could the character make a cover for the sheath that is made from the leather and braids? That would be how I would do it in real life. If it has to be tied to the pommel ring, then I would use silver thread or gold thread or something valuable that I could later break a piece of to use for payment (I have never played DND, so I don't know if you need some sort of valuables to pay for stuff in the game) Brgds Jonas

@Appalachiancowboy38 Tandy has a free pattern pack in their leathercraft library https://leathercraftlibrary.storage.googleapis.com/Archives/PDFs/2664-Batwing-And-Shotgun-Chap-Patterns.pdf I made the shotgun patterns for my daughter a couple of years back, and they fit pretty well. To make batwings that fit like shotguns, I'd take the shotgun pattern and just substitute the zipper for some snaps. Perhaps you should add 1" more to the leg width, but apart from that just go with the shotgun pattern. Admittedly I haven't made batwing chaps for anyone yet, but as far as I can see, they seem to flare out a good deal more at the lower part of the leg, and that plus the closing mechanism seems to be the only real difference. Brgds Jonas

@jcuk Thanks for the nice comment :-) To me it is also sort of a relaxing experience to sew it, just one stitch at the time, a bit like a zen moment I guess? Out here there is no pressure on speed, and it isn't like wrestling a saddle trying sew on a new girth strap in where they put the fabric strap so high up under the flap that you can't see what youy are doing. Nope, this is just pure straight down the road and new leather etc :-) I rarely listen to anything while I am working, just never gotten into it. I tried to listen to some historical podcasts, and that worked pretty well, but I like quiet time, being able to hear my Newfoundland dog sigh or snore next to me. I have used 4.5 SPI, It is the coarsest wheel on my stitch roller. Given that it is a fairly thick thread (1 mm), I think it looks good with a bold large stitch. Brgds Jonas

Thanks for the nice comment. Glad to be able to inspire a bit. The only thing I would like to have done a bit differently is that I would have liked the leather to be a bit thinner. It really is a hefty belt. But it was the thickness of leather that I just had brought with me, so I guess I'll just have to wear it till it softens. Brgds Jonas

@TonyV Thanks, I really missed my stitching horse, so I had to go about it by stabbing all the holes first, which is also doable, but I prefer to do it the other way :-) I have started wearing it, and so far I have avoided it getting too dirty Brgds Jonas

@JDFred Thanks for the nice comment :-) Brgds Jonas

Great find! Some saddlemaking books are really hard to find and expensive, like @chuck123wapati says, some of the patterns aren't reproduced, so I'd also just keep it. If you find that there are patterns/books for something that you have zero interest in, you could always offer it up for sale at this forum. Brgds Jonas

@PastorBob Thanks, I did manage to get a small crack in the little finger from tightening the thread. I did the sewing over a couple of days to keep it enjoyable. Brgds Jonas