Mulesaw

Yes, I just googled it, and draw reins are what I am talking about. I just gambled with a direct translation from Danish :-) Here they are called: glidetøjler. glide = slip or slide, tøjler = reins. Brgds Jonas

In Denmark saddler is also a protected title that requires you to have a journeymans certificate. I am self taught and never refer to myself as a saddle maker. I just make repairs, I have a basic idea about how a saddle should lie on a horse, but I am not good at determining whether it is the correct saddle for the horse and rider. I once replaced a billet strap that someone else had tried to repair. I don't know who (and I prefer not to), instead of lifting the seat of the tree, the person had just used a stapler to mount the billet. At least the local horse club had spotted that it wasn't done properly, so they sent the saddle my way. I am guessing that it might have been a parent connected to the club who didn't have the guts to tell them that the repair job was beyond his capabilities. They way I see it, if you have sound judgement, knows the basics about how to stitch etc, and know when to say NO, then I don't see anything wrong in doing repair jobs as long as you do them properly. The same goes with some new items such as halters and sliding reins etc. Brgds Jonas

33" That is a long billet! The lengths that I can get from Laederiet (my supplier) are 13", 18" or 26" So far I mainly get the 18 and 26" ones. My only gripe is that the holes are a bit elongated on the 18" ones, and not one the 26". It is only a visual problem, when I need to use a long one on the front part of a saddle and a shorter one near the middle (on Kieffer dressage saddles for example). I have only heard of Hermes saddles, never seen one in real life :-) I agree on the maltreatment of the cobblers hammer. It should not be used as a regular hammer, I have a ball peen hammer with a polished ball end, I only use that one for peening copper rivets. The sad thing is that despite her shortcomings in tool treatment and repair knowledge/execution, she seems to have a large audience. Maybe it is because people are more likely to watch someone telling them that "this is just a simple job that anyone can do" compared to someone who knows what he/she is doing and telling people that "this part is better left to someone who has a basic understanding of saddle repair". I guess it is just rare that a good craftsman also makes good videos, I know that there are some out there capable of both, Lisa Sorrel is a prime example. Her boot making videos are top notch, and she really seems to know what she is talking about. Once in a while you manage to come across a video made by such a person, and it is almost reinvigorating to watch it. Sadly this saddle repair video was the complete opposite Brgds Jonas

Hi Tove Welcome from the north-western part of Denmark. I am looking forward to seeing some of your creations here. Brgds Jonas

This is horrifying to watch. I was cringing the whole time. The patch work is dubious, but it might work as a temporary measure, but most saddles are so heavily treated with soap/oil/grease/conditioner etc, that I can never get any glue to stick properly. The girth job... Plenty of stitches across the strap, and I guess it is just out of pure ignorance that she doesn't lift the flap all the way up and reattach some new ones at the webbing. I first made my own girth straps, but I was never really satisfied with them. I buy mine ready made now. They come from England according to my supplier, They have the right feel to them :-) Brgds Jonas

This thread contains a wealth of information about selling and setting up at events. I like the U shape table idea or if there is not room, then one table but lengthwise (not like a counter that you stand behind). Also bring lots of water+ food + snacks for yourselves, buying stuff is costly. Bring lots of change. Have fun Brgds Jonas

@PrePro One day late (I hope you don't consider me a complete untrustworthy fraud) :-) I was so tired when I finally made it home, that I fell asleep on after eating supper. But here's some information on the thread: I used Gütermann extra stark M782, colour 327 Over here in Denmark it is available in most regular sewing machine/fabric/embroidery shops. So I guess it should also be available in the USA. If it is possible, I would bring the bag that you want to repair into a physical shop to check if the colour is a good match. I have no idea of the age of the bag that I repaired, so in theory the colour could be faded a bit. But if you don't have a Gütermann shop near you, the colour I used was 327. I have used the same line of thread (the extra stark M782) for other projects as well. Occasionally I get a pair of riding boots in light brown or dark brown. And instead of buying a large spool of 2000 m in a cpecial colour, the M782 gives me 100 m of any imaginable colour for around 5$. Good luck with the project, and please let me know if you need any more help :-) Brgds Jonas

Hi PrePro I can't remember the thread colour/brand, but I'll sign off the ship tomorrow and go home, so if you can wait one more day, I can tell you the brand/colour. Regarding the pig skin, it was something that came from my dads collection after he dies, so I have no idea whatsoever of the brand. I would look for a colour in the whiskey/cognac range (depending on what the store will call it) Like this: https://www.laederiet.dk/shop/81-foerskind/4030-svineskind/?variantId=20968 I used some double sided tape to hold the edge in place during sewing. It is not messy like contact glue can be, and it is plenty strong to hold the pieces in place while you sew, and if you mess up a bit when placing it in the first attempt, it can be removed without making a mark etc. Brgds Jonas (who will be back with more info tomorrow)

Nice find and great job so far. What method did you use to remove the rust? Brgds Jonas

Hi Tom Beautiful looking bridle! We had a Micklem bridle for my wifes horse, and that had the same system, I was always of the impression that it was made purely to protect the horse from having a buckle gnawing directly to the skin under the jaw (where as you know there isn't a lot of meat to add natual padding). Also having the buckle directly on the skin has the potential of gripping some hair from the horse, especially in the winter time where the hair s long (It might be a bigger problem in Scandinavian winters than in e.g. Florida) I have never heard anyone complaining or bad mouthing the system, but I am not on FB, and that might filter some of the most enthusiastic voices 🙂 As I see it, you can still overtighten a cavesson noseband, but if you are a skilled rider - you make sure that your equipment is fitted correct anyway, and then it won't matter if your system allows for tightening more or less. Brgds Jonas

@dikman Ah, yes, that is a mistake from my side 🙂 In my head it was for powder, not the lead shots. I have never seen one of those before, so I thought it was for simultaneously filling powder in a double barrel muzzle loaded shotgun. But is the idea that you carry 2 sizes of shots? Or is it for a double barrel shotgun ? Brgds Jonas

That is really a specialty item! Looking really good I must say. My best suggestion would be to use a cow horn. In Europe it was the standard thing for holding black powder, so it won't be damaged by the chemicals in the powder. Cow horn can be shaped if you heat it up first. I am unsure about what temperature, but I think 325-350 degrees Fahrenheit seems to be the spot as far as I can see on the Net. You heat it up in some hot oil, and then you shape it. I'd make a tapered piece of wood with a broom stick as a handle. The tapered piece should look like a small cartoon christmas tree, with the brrom stick out the wide end. Cut a cow horn to a length a bit longer than the tapered piece. Heat up the horn, and press the tapered piece into the horn, and when it cools down it should retain its shape. An alternative route is to take the wide part of a cow horn, cut a piece off, slit it open and heat it up. Then you flatten the piece. WIth the flat piece you mark out to form a tapered pipe. THen heat it again and shape it over a prefabricated piece of wood. I have never tried working with horn this way, I just know the theory behind it. But I guess it might be a heckuvalot of work to make something like that when no one is ever going to see it. A second option would be to form a small cone using some sheet metal brass. Brass is easy to solder and if you get something fairly thin, it is easy to shape as well. Brgds Jonas

Hi John G Welcome to the forum. To me the most important points are: Strength/solidity Size Design/style Finish to me is part of the style, and I normally prefer just a regular brass finish like the one in your picture, alternatively it could be silver coloured, but I prefer no "bling" on my buckles. Price is not especially important since I don't make 1000 belts, and compared to the time invested in making a nice belt, the price for a buckle is only of secondary importance. But I guess that if you run a regular production of belts, it is of more importance. I like the small "dip" where the prong of the buckle nests. That is a nice touch in my opinion. Depending on what type of product I am making, I use either "normal buckles" like the one in your picture, or "roller buckles" or "center bar buckles" For belts I prefer sizes 1.25" and 1.5" (30mm and 38-40mm). Brgds Jonas

Welcome, nice looking products on your website. Brgds Jonas

Welcome to the forum, Really nice looking tooling! Brgds Jonas

@friquant Looks pretty good to me. I have never tried using a thinner bobbin thread, but I guess it is the only option if someone wants to use a very thick thread for sewing. Did you have to loosen the top thread tension a lot to make it sew so neat? Brgds Jonas

That makes more sense, but again, my French skills are virtually non existing, so I just saw some numbers. But it could easily be the person who had written the article had gotten it wrong in the first place 🙂 Brgds Jonas

Hi Clément I can see that they say that a class 45 will be able to handle 3 mm, I had no idea that they could go that high up in diameter. (Mostly guessing from the numbers since I don't speak French 🙂 ) Do you have any pictures of the yarn / linen thread that you intend to use? I am just curious if you are thinking something that is a bit flexible and pliable, or if it is very hard rolled and compact. Depending on what you want to make, and how many of the same thing you will make, hand sewing is definitely an option. If there are some difficult shapes, machine sewing can be really difficult in my experince. But hand sewing can take a lot of time, and if you are planning on making wool ponchos for sale, I guess machine sewing will be the best for the business. I am at work right now (at a ship), but I'll go home in about a week, and I can try to see how much I can wrangle through my class 7 Singer, just as an experiment. I have some heavy 6 strand linen thread, that I could double or triple to test. I just googled for some macrame yarn, and one type was available in 4 mm, but the most types were 2 mm in thickness. https://rito.dk/jutesnor/32859-infinity-hearts-snor-jutesnor-hvid-2mm-100-meter-5713410015773.html This one is jute, so not linen, but still a nature material. Some of theothers were cotton blended with 20% polyester. I don't think that a heavy duty household machine will have a needle system that will be able to handle a 1.2 mm thread. So you will probably have to find some heavy industrial type sewing machine. Now I am by no means an expert in sewing machines, but please remember that just becasue the machine is an industrial type it might not be designed for large needles. Many of the industrial machines are for sewing fast in regular and heavy fabric like denim, but not with very thick threads. Brgds Jonas

@Ferreol Helle Clément, and welcome to the forum I think the biggest challenge will be finding a machine and a needle that will accept a 3 mm thread. I have an old Singer class 7, but I don't even think that that machine is able to manage a 3 mm thread. A problem is that the bobbin won't really be able to accommodate much, and I doubt that such a heavy thread will be able to go around the bobbin itself without getting stuck. I just checked Gross Beckerts needle sizes for system 794 (the one that a Singer class 7 and others use), and they did have a needle called size 300, but it was incredibly expensive - around 20 times the price of a regular large size e.g. size 200. They wanted something like 420 $ for a 10-pack of needles. My best suggestion would be to use a thinner thread (linen or cotton) and sew through the 3 or 4 mm diameter linen and through the wool fabric. This might not be what you are looking for, but it would enable you to fasten a 3 or 4 mm thread to your project. Wool fabric of that wight, I think that you should technically be able to sew on a regular machine. But not with such a heavy thread. As an alternative to linen, perhaps you could use silk? I think it is available in qualities that you can use on a sewing machine. Best regards Jonas

The disappointment and annoyance of suddenly having to deal with producing a product that doesn't live up to your own quality goals is exactly what is so hard to accept. Knowing that suddenly instead of a flawless product out there representing your skills, there is something completely different that you know ytou could have made better. The only good thing is that usually those who see it will still think it looks amazing, They don't know how it looked from the start, but it is still not much of a comfort to me.

While browsing Youtube for videos of English saddle construction, for some very strange reason this suggestion popped up. I speak very limited Spanish, so I can't make out what kind of straw that they use, and I think the saddle might be for the horse mounted person in a bullfight arena, but I am not sure. The interesting thing is that the saddle is built without a traditional tree. All the stiffness comes from straw. There is also some interesting decorations, that I guess are traditional. Definitely worth watching.

Ouch, having incomplete (or false) information to start out with is so frustrating. And I thjinbk you made a nice save! I promised my son to make a set of chaps for Christmas for his good friend (a farrier who does western riding). I was told that they should just be exactly like those that I had made for my son the year before, I asked if he really was the same size etc, and yup, just make them the same. Turns out that he would have liked his legs 4" longer.. I had to improvise to make it look decent, and I was pretty fed up with the project since redoing it was much more trouble than just making them correct the first time. But lesson learned 🙂

WOW!! That top is SO elegant. Did you drill the holes or use an awl to get through all those layers? Brgds Jonas

It's looking really good! I have been toying with the idea of making a die (just for a key fob), I got a used blade for a band saw that I plan on using. I am going to silver solder the ends together, but the sharpening I haven't quite figured out yet. It might be the easiest to do before bending I guess. But anyway, thanks for a lot of fine inspiration:-) Brgds Jonas

Welcome to the forum from Denmark. The Singer patchers are fantastic machines. Have fun restoring yours. Brgds Jonas