Mulesaw

That makes more sense, but again, my French skills are virtually non existing, so I just saw some numbers. But it could easily be the person who had written the article had gotten it wrong in the first place 🙂 Brgds Jonas

Hi Clément I can see that they say that a class 45 will be able to handle 3 mm, I had no idea that they could go that high up in diameter. (Mostly guessing from the numbers since I don't speak French 🙂 ) Do you have any pictures of the yarn / linen thread that you intend to use? I am just curious if you are thinking something that is a bit flexible and pliable, or if it is very hard rolled and compact. Depending on what you want to make, and how many of the same thing you will make, hand sewing is definitely an option. If there are some difficult shapes, machine sewing can be really difficult in my experince. But hand sewing can take a lot of time, and if you are planning on making wool ponchos for sale, I guess machine sewing will be the best for the business. I am at work right now (at a ship), but I'll go home in about a week, and I can try to see how much I can wrangle through my class 7 Singer, just as an experiment. I have some heavy 6 strand linen thread, that I could double or triple to test. I just googled for some macrame yarn, and one type was available in 4 mm, but the most types were 2 mm in thickness. https://rito.dk/jutesnor/32859-infinity-hearts-snor-jutesnor-hvid-2mm-100-meter-5713410015773.html This one is jute, so not linen, but still a nature material. Some of theothers were cotton blended with 20% polyester. I don't think that a heavy duty household machine will have a needle system that will be able to handle a 1.2 mm thread. So you will probably have to find some heavy industrial type sewing machine. Now I am by no means an expert in sewing machines, but please remember that just becasue the machine is an industrial type it might not be designed for large needles. Many of the industrial machines are for sewing fast in regular and heavy fabric like denim, but not with very thick threads. Brgds Jonas

@Ferreol Helle Clément, and welcome to the forum I think the biggest challenge will be finding a machine and a needle that will accept a 3 mm thread. I have an old Singer class 7, but I don't even think that that machine is able to manage a 3 mm thread. A problem is that the bobbin won't really be able to accommodate much, and I doubt that such a heavy thread will be able to go around the bobbin itself without getting stuck. I just checked Gross Beckerts needle sizes for system 794 (the one that a Singer class 7 and others use), and they did have a needle called size 300, but it was incredibly expensive - around 20 times the price of a regular large size e.g. size 200. They wanted something like 420 $ for a 10-pack of needles. My best suggestion would be to use a thinner thread (linen or cotton) and sew through the 3 or 4 mm diameter linen and through the wool fabric. This might not be what you are looking for, but it would enable you to fasten a 3 or 4 mm thread to your project. Wool fabric of that wight, I think that you should technically be able to sew on a regular machine. But not with such a heavy thread. As an alternative to linen, perhaps you could use silk? I think it is available in qualities that you can use on a sewing machine. Best regards Jonas

The disappointment and annoyance of suddenly having to deal with producing a product that doesn't live up to your own quality goals is exactly what is so hard to accept. Knowing that suddenly instead of a flawless product out there representing your skills, there is something completely different that you know ytou could have made better. The only good thing is that usually those who see it will still think it looks amazing, They don't know how it looked from the start, but it is still not much of a comfort to me.

While browsing Youtube for videos of English saddle construction, for some very strange reason this suggestion popped up. I speak very limited Spanish, so I can't make out what kind of straw that they use, and I think the saddle might be for the horse mounted person in a bullfight arena, but I am not sure. The interesting thing is that the saddle is built without a traditional tree. All the stiffness comes from straw. There is also some interesting decorations, that I guess are traditional. Definitely worth watching.

Ouch, having incomplete (or false) information to start out with is so frustrating. And I thjinbk you made a nice save! I promised my son to make a set of chaps for Christmas for his good friend (a farrier who does western riding). I was told that they should just be exactly like those that I had made for my son the year before, I asked if he really was the same size etc, and yup, just make them the same. Turns out that he would have liked his legs 4" longer.. I had to improvise to make it look decent, and I was pretty fed up with the project since redoing it was much more trouble than just making them correct the first time. But lesson learned 🙂

WOW!! That top is SO elegant. Did you drill the holes or use an awl to get through all those layers? Brgds Jonas

It's looking really good! I have been toying with the idea of making a die (just for a key fob), I got a used blade for a band saw that I plan on using. I am going to silver solder the ends together, but the sharpening I haven't quite figured out yet. It might be the easiest to do before bending I guess. But anyway, thanks for a lot of fine inspiration:-) Brgds Jonas

Welcome to the forum from Denmark. The Singer patchers are fantastic machines. Have fun restoring yours. Brgds Jonas

Like those above said, as long as you don't sell it or actively market it I think you are OK. And I still think you'll be OK if you sell it together with the car some day. Brgds Jonas

A Singer 45K might do the trick for you, and be available within your budget. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/85098-singer-45k-89-experiences/ Good luck, brgds Jonas

Its a shame that Michigan is such a long way from Denmark. Someone just made a heckuvadeal as far as I can see. Glad to learn that the collection went to a good family.

Great looking belt, and fabulous photographic skills!! Taking a decent picture generally is hard for me, and if it is a picture of a belt.. I am lost from the start. Brgds Jonas

Maybe a strap saying: Daytona beach 2025. Just a small strip of leather with either stamped or branded onto it. Make a hole and a cut in one end, so it can be attached to a regular button on a vest or a denim jacket. You could make the same strap as a keyfob. But like @chuck123wapati said, what are your own ideas? You could make custom chaps, or belts or leatherwrapped locking chains (for keeping your motorcycle locked and still looking good), but it is easier to give hints/help if we know sort of what you'd like to bring yourself. Brgds Jonas

@speedybri Sounds like a great idea, I'd try to get a small bandsaw, and use a meat cutting blade for it. If you haven't got a band saw yourself, perhaps a friend has got one? Changing a blade on one is really easy, so you could eventually just buy a blade that fit his/her saw and then use it whenever you need to cut the straps. https://kasco.com/collections/boneless-poultry-processed-meat-band-saw-blades A blade like this is what I had in mind. You'd have to draw a line to cut along, but a regular straightedge or a long ruler would do the trick. I'd love to see a post with artillery harness 🙂 Brgds Jonas

I normally say that I work with leather, it is also the term that I would use in Danish. To me leatherworker means that it is your "line of work" I mean what you do for a living. Leathercrafter (to me) sounds more like a hobbyist. But I guess it all depends on where you live in the world 🙂

WOW!! That is an impressive task you have done here. Thanks for sharing 🙂 Brgds Jonas

The feed mechanism is not really super great when it comes to thick stuff, so in addition to setting the adjustment on the back to H like @CowboyBob says, it also helps a lot to push/pull gently to help the object through. It also depends on how much pressure you keep on your presser foot, if it is pushing hard, and there is a lot of friction between the leather and the sewing machine, it can be hard to move just by the feed mechanism alone. I'd say 8 mm is a good figure, you can go a bit thicker, but not always with great success. In my view it is a fantastic machine, but again, my work is mainly repair job, and it is really great at that. Brgds Jonas

Looking really good! You are exceptionally good at making those nice looking edges! Brgds Jonas

Conratulations, very cool haul! And with all that leather there is something to practise on :-) At first when I looked at the pictures, I was puzzled over seeing the exhaust manifold and I was wondering - hmmm, what did they use that for in a leather factory (But I remembered that all pictures from my shop includes something completely unrelated to any topic as well). Brgds Jonas

@Pdm25150 Good to hear that you beat the heart attack, and nice job on those zippers. Cutting into something expensive is always a daunting task. Did you also install those "don't chafe the upper part of the heel flaps"? They look really good too. brgds Jonas

@RockyAussie The actual company ceased to exist quite some years ago, and the successor company only deals with the Pedersen milling machines. I wrote them about a year ago due to some questions on an old Pedersen sewing machine. But never got an answer. Based on my experience as a marine engineer (there is a whole lot of different hydraulic systems on a ship), I'd suggest that you use either a grade 32 or 46 oil for the hydraulic system. The higher grade if you operate in very warm climates (+ 40 degrees Celsius continuously). My reasoning is that the mechanism has to return fairly fast, and that necessitates a fairly thin oil. I have never seen a clicker press in real life, only on Youtube, and based on how it moves it seems as there is basically just a piston to move the clicker part. And any hydraulic oil will move a piston, but only a thing one will drain fast enough for a spring to return the piston to the start position. I would guess that a skilled hydraulic mechanic could troubleshoot and potentially fix the problem without having the manual. Without having seen your machine, I guess there is some sort of solenoid valve that need to register that your hands are out of harms way before it will press. If any of these don't get the signal, they'll stay open and let oil bleed through back to they hydraulic tank. So it might be an electrical fault. But I am just guessing here. What is the problem that you are experiencing? lack of power, or no movement or slow movement or something else? This company (I found them while searching for a manual) have at least two Pedersen 282 in this (old) video. Perhaps they have a manual that they would share with you? Brgds Jonas

@RockyAussie I tried a bit more Googlin. This member had a manual, the thread is not super old, so maybe it was worth sending a message to him and see if he still has it, or maybe if he saved a pdf of it. Brgds Jonas

I just tried Googling if there was any information in Danish, but sadly nothing came up. My best guess would be to contact Sieck in Germany and see if they have any information on the machine. Good luck Brgds Jonas

Welcome :-) Nice looking bag. Brgds Jonas