Mulesaw

While browsing Youtube for videos of English saddle construction, for some very strange reason this suggestion popped up. I speak very limited Spanish, so I can't make out what kind of straw that they use, and I think the saddle might be for the horse mounted person in a bullfight arena, but I am not sure. The interesting thing is that the saddle is built without a traditional tree. All the stiffness comes from straw. There is also some interesting decorations, that I guess are traditional. Definitely worth watching.

Ouch, having incomplete (or false) information to start out with is so frustrating. And I thjinbk you made a nice save! I promised my son to make a set of chaps for Christmas for his good friend (a farrier who does western riding). I was told that they should just be exactly like those that I had made for my son the year before, I asked if he really was the same size etc, and yup, just make them the same. Turns out that he would have liked his legs 4" longer.. I had to improvise to make it look decent, and I was pretty fed up with the project since redoing it was much more trouble than just making them correct the first time. But lesson learned 🙂

WOW!! That top is SO elegant. Did you drill the holes or use an awl to get through all those layers? Brgds Jonas

It's looking really good! I have been toying with the idea of making a die (just for a key fob), I got a used blade for a band saw that I plan on using. I am going to silver solder the ends together, but the sharpening I haven't quite figured out yet. It might be the easiest to do before bending I guess. But anyway, thanks for a lot of fine inspiration:-) Brgds Jonas

Welcome to the forum from Denmark. The Singer patchers are fantastic machines. Have fun restoring yours. Brgds Jonas

Like those above said, as long as you don't sell it or actively market it I think you are OK. And I still think you'll be OK if you sell it together with the car some day. Brgds Jonas

A Singer 45K might do the trick for you, and be available within your budget. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/85098-singer-45k-89-experiences/ Good luck, brgds Jonas

Its a shame that Michigan is such a long way from Denmark. Someone just made a heckuvadeal as far as I can see. Glad to learn that the collection went to a good family.

Great looking belt, and fabulous photographic skills!! Taking a decent picture generally is hard for me, and if it is a picture of a belt.. I am lost from the start. Brgds Jonas

Maybe a strap saying: Daytona beach 2025. Just a small strip of leather with either stamped or branded onto it. Make a hole and a cut in one end, so it can be attached to a regular button on a vest or a denim jacket. You could make the same strap as a keyfob. But like @chuck123wapati said, what are your own ideas? You could make custom chaps, or belts or leatherwrapped locking chains (for keeping your motorcycle locked and still looking good), but it is easier to give hints/help if we know sort of what you'd like to bring yourself. Brgds Jonas

@speedybri Sounds like a great idea, I'd try to get a small bandsaw, and use a meat cutting blade for it. If you haven't got a band saw yourself, perhaps a friend has got one? Changing a blade on one is really easy, so you could eventually just buy a blade that fit his/her saw and then use it whenever you need to cut the straps. https://kasco.com/collections/boneless-poultry-processed-meat-band-saw-blades A blade like this is what I had in mind. You'd have to draw a line to cut along, but a regular straightedge or a long ruler would do the trick. I'd love to see a post with artillery harness 🙂 Brgds Jonas

I normally say that I work with leather, it is also the term that I would use in Danish. To me leatherworker means that it is your "line of work" I mean what you do for a living. Leathercrafter (to me) sounds more like a hobbyist. But I guess it all depends on where you live in the world 🙂

WOW!! That is an impressive task you have done here. Thanks for sharing 🙂 Brgds Jonas

The feed mechanism is not really super great when it comes to thick stuff, so in addition to setting the adjustment on the back to H like @CowboyBob says, it also helps a lot to push/pull gently to help the object through. It also depends on how much pressure you keep on your presser foot, if it is pushing hard, and there is a lot of friction between the leather and the sewing machine, it can be hard to move just by the feed mechanism alone. I'd say 8 mm is a good figure, you can go a bit thicker, but not always with great success. In my view it is a fantastic machine, but again, my work is mainly repair job, and it is really great at that. Brgds Jonas

Looking really good! You are exceptionally good at making those nice looking edges! Brgds Jonas

Conratulations, very cool haul! And with all that leather there is something to practise on :-) At first when I looked at the pictures, I was puzzled over seeing the exhaust manifold and I was wondering - hmmm, what did they use that for in a leather factory (But I remembered that all pictures from my shop includes something completely unrelated to any topic as well). Brgds Jonas

@Pdm25150 Good to hear that you beat the heart attack, and nice job on those zippers. Cutting into something expensive is always a daunting task. Did you also install those "don't chafe the upper part of the heel flaps"? They look really good too. brgds Jonas

@RockyAussie The actual company ceased to exist quite some years ago, and the successor company only deals with the Pedersen milling machines. I wrote them about a year ago due to some questions on an old Pedersen sewing machine. But never got an answer. Based on my experience as a marine engineer (there is a whole lot of different hydraulic systems on a ship), I'd suggest that you use either a grade 32 or 46 oil for the hydraulic system. The higher grade if you operate in very warm climates (+ 40 degrees Celsius continuously). My reasoning is that the mechanism has to return fairly fast, and that necessitates a fairly thin oil. I have never seen a clicker press in real life, only on Youtube, and based on how it moves it seems as there is basically just a piston to move the clicker part. And any hydraulic oil will move a piston, but only a thing one will drain fast enough for a spring to return the piston to the start position. I would guess that a skilled hydraulic mechanic could troubleshoot and potentially fix the problem without having the manual. Without having seen your machine, I guess there is some sort of solenoid valve that need to register that your hands are out of harms way before it will press. If any of these don't get the signal, they'll stay open and let oil bleed through back to they hydraulic tank. So it might be an electrical fault. But I am just guessing here. What is the problem that you are experiencing? lack of power, or no movement or slow movement or something else? This company (I found them while searching for a manual) have at least two Pedersen 282 in this (old) video. Perhaps they have a manual that they would share with you? Brgds Jonas

@RockyAussie I tried a bit more Googlin. This member had a manual, the thread is not super old, so maybe it was worth sending a message to him and see if he still has it, or maybe if he saved a pdf of it. Brgds Jonas

I just tried Googling if there was any information in Danish, but sadly nothing came up. My best guess would be to contact Sieck in Germany and see if they have any information on the machine. Good luck Brgds Jonas

Welcome :-) Nice looking bag. Brgds Jonas

@Coloradoguy I think you need to find a sharpening service that does carpentry machines. Maybe your local cabinetmaker has got a grinding machine for sharpening blades for a jointer/planer. (I do but Denmark is a bit far away from you) I tried googling sharpening services in Omaha Nebraska, and a company called Loveless Sharpening looks like the place that could do the job for you. http://lovelessmachine.com/Pages/home.aspx please note that I am in no way affiliated with them, I don't know them or the quality of their work, but a shop that can sharpen a paper knife for the book cutting industry would also know (and have the machinery) for sharpening a skiver blade. Good luck Brgds Jonas

@WMages Good question, I guess it depends on how you want to make your holsters. There is a skiving knife on a 5 in 1 that will make a skived edge alongside a curved edge, so that could be a solution if it is something you already do, or perhaps it could be something that can set your holsters apart from others? The cutting wheel like you mention could potentially help. Could you perhaps borrow the 5 in 1 from your friend, and make a couple of test pieces to see if it is something that would suit you?, make a scabbard and a couple of holsters and try to use it for all those things that you can think of, if the completed item looks better than your normal product, or if you found it easier, then I'd say go ahead. But if it just ad complexity to the process and no real gain, then you have tried it and knows that it won't work for you. Another thing that you might consider, is that you can always try to sell the 5 in 1 again if you don't like it. you might loose a bit of cash, but I think the value of those machines won't change much even if you use it for a couple of months. Brgds Jonas

I always get that same feeling around old tools. It makes me feel privileged, that today, many of us are able to do something for a hobby, that was once the bread and butter for a family. Genuine wear adds a certain beauty to many things. Brgds Jonas

Looks pretty good I'd say. I am signing off the ship Wednesday, When I get home I'll take a look to see if I can make a drawing of the missing stitch length regulator for you. Brgds Jonas