Tequila

@Garyak here’s one source that I’ve used. Montana Leather Also Buckleguy has smaller hides from Buffalo Calf. Korba Buffalo

That was interesting reading. The more I think of using wool or any type of fabric for the lining the more I wonder if I’ll need to use ½ inch foam as a backing. If I do there’s going to be a lot of glue used

This is one of the linings that I’m considering, what do you think? Weaver Leather

I’m not sure if the canvas would be too course, but that is something to consider. I’ll have to do some research. If it looks that way I may go with something like a wool blanket. Thanks Mark!

Thanks, that’s what I was thinking that or wool.

I think you need to make a case for her, that way I can steal the idea

It’s a long rifle. I’m still working up loads for it, I’m going to start shooting 100-200 yard long range side matches. Strictly black powder though, I love the smoke and fire!

I have a Springfield model 1873 trapdoor that was made in 1874. The gun is in great shape and works well. I want to make a zippered case for it, but because it’s so long (54+ inches) of course there’s no premade patterns. My thought is to get a dyed veg tan, I’m not going to do any tooling or stamping since the case will only be used to protect the gun when I’m traveling. Here are a couple of things that I’d like to get opinions on: what weight leather? I’m not planning on hand sewing and my Cobra sewing machine can only do about ⅜ inch, so maybe a 6-8 ounce? I want the case lined, but again I haven’t figured out what to use. I had an old case that had some type of sheepskin, I think it was synthetic, and I didn’t like it because it made a gun rusty if it was left in the case for a day or two. I’m not going to put a sling on the case, but I think it should have handles, thoughts? This project has a lot of firsts for me, zipper, handles, lining, and length are all new to me so any thoughts or advice are welcome. I’m probably going to start this in 3 weeks or so which should give me enough time to source my supplies.

If you’re going to go the drill route here are a couple things to think about. Drill Press: as you know leather will burn so if you use a high speed drill expect the hole to have burn marks. That’s not always a bad thing the hole is burn (ished), if you don’t want that then drill the hole smaller than your finished hole size then finish off with a punch of the correct size. Drill bits: get quality bits. The bit is doing all the work, if your bit gets dull it will pull, grab, and make a terrible hole. When using tiny bits make sure that they are chucked perpendicular to the table, it’s easy for a small bit to chucked at an angle. Backing: place your leather on top of a piece of wood. Since leather is flexible you want to keep the leather flat while you’re drilling so you get a nice round hole.

That’s a level of detail you don’t see everyday!

All great advice, and I’m probably way off base with the next comment, but I thought I’d throw it out there. . When I look at the picture @Deek posted it reminds me of the linkage in a lever action rifle. Keeping with that thought if you have to take the linkage out again I’d look at the hinge points and where’s movement, see if there is a rough spot or burr that might be catching. It might be hard to see by eye, so get something soft like a dryer sheet or a Q-tip and run it across the surface, if there’s anything rough it’ll show up.

Many of us don’t have a sewing machine and hand sewing is very popular. A good saddle stitch is extremely strong and good looking, so don’t think you have to have a sewing machine.

I purchased some veg tanned leather from a supplier that offered splitting. The splitter must’ve had a problem because it was obvious that some of it had an extra layer of hide on it. To me that’s a sign of quality control, and I’ll be hesitant to buy from them again. And no I didn’t call and tell them, I couldn’t wait another 10 days to get another piece, on the plus side the leather face was very good (holes, scars, etc.). So for me quality control is important, if I get charged a premium price I expect a premium product. Customer Service: I’m tired of hearing excuses. If you have a “Contact Us” section I would hope that you have someone to answer the phone/respond to email. Website: Keep it uncomplicated. I really like vendor’s sites that allow you choices to view leather by weight, tannage, cut, etc. If I’m looking for 2oz veg I don’t go through pages of chrome, and heavy weight stuff. I looked at a vendor’s site recently that didn’t list the tannage, so you didn’t know if you were looking at veg or chrome tanned Tools: People are different; not everyone wants expensive high end tools/equipment, but others are willing to pay for a quality product, clearly labeled choices are nice. If you’re going to sell stamps seeing a picture of what the stamp looks like on leather with a ruler to show the size is nice. Hope some or all of this helps.

Here’s a quick stitch guide I made with 207 thread through 6-8 oz leather, the numbers are relative to the numbers on the stitch length knob

This is my set up using 207 thread from Leather Machine Co. Have you tried contacting LMC and explain what’s going on? When I first got mine they were very helpful when I through the machine out of time.

Yes, the Apollo veg tan will work. As @PastorBob said don’t use chrome tan (it will affect the metal on the shotgun). Tannery NYC is a legitimate vendor, although I’ve never used them, but I do see that they don’t list the tanning method, so if it was me I’d call them before placing an order. You can’t go by “Cowhide” because it could be either chrome or veg tanned. If there’s a leather store near you I’d suggest to go there, then you can look, see, and feel before you buy, if there isn’t one close by I’d go with Tandy over Tannery NYC for your first project. Your choice whether you stitch or lace. The tools required will be different for each technique, stitching needles are different then lacing needles, the same with chisels. Me personally, I think stitching is easier and stronger, but others could put up an argument for lacing, you’ll have to decide for yourself. Are you going to put a handle or sling on the case? The lesson here is to plan out what you want ahead of time so you get enough supplies and assemble everything in the right order. Here are some links to other suppliers that can also help: https://makersleathersupply.com/ https://www.rmleathersupply.com/ https://www.montanaleather.com/ https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/

Now that’s NICE! You said that finally finished it, how long did you work on it? Probably take me a year at the pace I work.

Why does this remind me of the pet rock? I guess I’m dating myself

I’ve also got a 26, but I’m not sure if I can help. Can you give some more information, i.e. stitch length setting, thread weight, where you got the thread from. Also, how are you winding the thread through the tension post at the top of the machine (chrome post with holes)? I think @Wizcrafts is on the right track with thinking it’s a thread tension problem. Here are a couple of manuals that may help. Before trying any of the fixes in the Engineer’s Manual I’d try different thread, usually the simplest answer is the correct answer. Juki_LS-341N_Engineers_Manual.pdf Juki LS-341N InstructionManual.pdf

Never new about the pendulum thing. I guess you have to practice on the same thickness as the project.

You can also try Buckle Guy they have a large assortment of hardware.

As far as stretching goes you can use painter's tape on the backside, when done just peel off. As for transfer I’ll offer this, you can also get tracing film, kind of like tracing paper, but, a stylus won’t go through it and you can place it on cased leather and it won’t fall apart.

Yes, the rifle has a crescent shaped butt. I have a cylinder machine which limits me on how far I can go, I guess if I had a post machine I’d be able to go all the way around. Thanks

I think you’re right it is soft. The other thing is it’s got a micro checkering, probably done to keep things from sliding off, but it gives the knife a lot of things to catch on. Does the knife make deep gouges in it?