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Tequila

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Everything posted by Tequila

  1. Man I hope so, I checked 3 times, but I ain’t got that kinda luck
  2. Nice work. Any reason for the shape?
  3. Thanks, and I’m trying, the hard part (zipper) is yet to come.
  4. I pretty sure this isn’t the right forum to post this update, but since I started this thread I thought I’d post some updates on this gun case here. This is probably a very easy project for most of you, however for me it’s the biggest thing I’ve made with a lot of firsts. It started out with what type of leather to use, I had decided not do any tooling or stamping since it was for me and it was going to be a working case. So I decided to go with a chrome tan, the gun is 54 inches long, which (as you know) meant that I had to buy a side just to get the length I needed. With the decision to use chrome tan opened up a lot of choices of species and color. After going nuts looking at all the choices I decided to call Maker’s Leather Supply. After explaining the project they transferred me to the owner Aaron and he suggested a 4-5 ounce crazy horse pull up. If you’ve never dealt with Maker’s you owe it to yourself to give them a look, I received my order in 2 days. When I explained to Aaron all the firsts that the case presented me he said if I had any questions or needed any suggestions to call him and he’d help me out, now that’s customer service I appreciate. The project came to a stop when I had to go to another supplier for thread (Maker’s was out of stock), that order took over a week to get, I’ll keep that in mind for next time. The lining posed another set of questions of what to use. If you’ve ever put a hot gun in a case with a synthetic liner you know that it can ruin your day, so I knew it had to be a natural material. I started thinking wool, but I didn’t want a sheepskin, unfortunately I couldn’t find a wool fabric, so I went with 100% cotton. I used @chuck123wapati ‘s suggestion and used batting for cushioning. Having never used batting I wasn’t sure how thick it should be, what I bought was too thin which meant I had to glue 2 pieces together. As of today I made a pattern, cut the leather to the pattern, made 2 rolled handles (a first), sewed them on, cut and glued the batting, cut and sewed the fabric. I still have to cut strips of leather to go around the top seem and opening, assemble and sew the zipper, and finally sew the the everything up. Here’s what it looks like so far:
  5. Down this way, (southern Louisiana and southern Mississippi) we’ve got plenty if you want some more . In the New Orleans area they have nutria hunters that get paid for every tail they turn in.
  6. From one redneck to another, how about some nutria teeth?
  7. I think it’s pretty easy to explain, and you kind of answered your own question, it’s top color. The holes are showing the leather including the layers below the top color. You can re-dye the holes with a brush or the entire piece if you haven’t put a top coat/finish on it.
  8. @Key I’m surprised no one mentioned something that I always do before hand stitching, using a stitch groover. The groover creates a small groove where you’re going to stitch, that allows the thread to “lay in” the leather, it also gives you a line to follow whether you use pricking irons or chisels. Of course you can always just use a wheel to mark your holes and then use an awl. I’d practice (a lot), as @zuludog said, everything looks easy when done by someone with years of experience. To make a good saddle stitch you need to be consistent and repeatable, over and over again.
  9. Stunning work, I’m sure it will raise a pretty penny at auction. I do have one little question, after you carved the bird did you bevel the lines or just added paint?
  10. Now you need to try a Duane Watts yoke less swivel knife from DW Leatherworks. I’d be interested to see what you think of it.
  11. Just a comment on the round knife portion. I also had purchased a new Stohlman knife and was disappointed, the edge wasn’t sharp, but it was thick. After stropping no better, then took it to some stones and stropped it again it was better, but still not great, so I put it away. Then I bought 2 old used knives ( a 3” and a 5” or there about) from one of the members here on Leatherworker and man what a difference. The gentleman said he sharpened them up for me, and he did a beautiful job! As long as I keep them stropped the large one will go through 10 oz veg like a hot knife through butter and the smaller one is my go to for anything up to 6-8 oz. IMHO I think that a lot of the older tools are better quality than the mass produced ones available today. If I do buy new tools I try to get them from smaller makers that take pride in their products.
  12. I’m not sure of the value, but I did find a copy of the original Owner’s Manual A little more description would help, like does it work? Do you use it for leather? Etc.
  13. You done good son! Looks to me like you’ve mastered both Damascus and your sewing machine. Looks like you should go on Forged in Fire!
  14. @Gulrok I like the new print and font, it’s easy to read and recognizable. I have to agree with @Mulesaw, to me the needle and awl logo says “sewing”, but you’re going to be more than sewing, so I’d say a round knife and either the sewing needle or even a maul (not a mallet).
  15. @Sam83 IMHO it’s not the HP but the application of the HP. Reducing pulley will increase the torque and reduce the speed. Again, IMHO I would choose the Leatherwork, why you ask? Easy, first for almost all leatherwork a good straight stitch is all you need. Second, more HP is always a good thing. Third after looking at the machine specs the LSZ-1 MAY require you to change the presser feet and feed dog since it’s designed to be used for sewing canvas, etc and might mar leather. A good leather machine can go slow and still have the punching power to push the needle through the leather. As for going around corners well slow is you friend, usually it’s one stitch at a time and controlling where the leather is to where the needle is is crucial, remember leather is unforgiving one extra hole can ruin the product.
  16. Is it me or does the original look like the carving has almost a rope like look? And if you blow up the 2 pictures the remake is more floral.
  17. Thanks Chuck, I like that idea.
  18. I agree the logo is not quite right. I think I see what the artist was going for a look-a-like Union Railroad logo, but it doesn’t grab me. I think @JLSleather is on the right track (pardon the pun). Maybe something like Union on the first line and Leather Supply on the second line. IMHO
  19. @Gulrok so when should we plan on seeing your new site up and running? Are you planning on having an announcement?
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