ArkieNewbie

I just bought some buckles from OTB and there was a letter in the package announcing this. When I saw it I said, "Oh no!" My wife asked what was wrong....haha

@Frodo that makes sense. I really appreciate you sharing this way of doing it. It seems a very clean way of making the pockets.

@Frodo I had to do some back flips inside my head but I think I finally got my mind wrapped around your genius idea. I've got some light weight camo canvas that I have had no idea what to do with. THIS may be its finest hour.

Thank you for pointing this out, that is a good idea. I work at a steel mill with a good fab shop so I be we can find enough scrap laying around to put something together.

@HBHays13 is this machine still available?

Thanks, Chuck! There's some good stuff there.

That's a good idea. I have been meaning to buy an arbor press. Harbor Freight has a 1 ton press for $64 and I think that would serve all of my purposes.

I thought about that but, and this may sound weird, they just look TOO good. That would certainly eliminate my problem though. I have used the precut pocket shapes from SLC and love them and will continue to use them for bifold and minimalist wallets just because they are clicked out so perfectly and consistently. I wish they made roper wallet precut t-pockets too.

From everything I just read about it, i don't see any reason why it couldn't be used to line a gun case. Sounds like it it breathable and soft so it won't damage the finish. https://www.thescotlandkiltcompany.co.uk/blogs/news/what-is-polyviscose-fabric

Thank you to all three of you! Very good info. @GrampaJoel @mike02130 @Danne , thank you for the visuals! You're option 3 is what I had pictured in my head. The leather I have for my pockets is a 2/3oz. veg tanned. I have a set of French edgers so skiving down the edges should be a pretty decent option. I'm not super skilled with them yet but I am getting better. Making belt keepers has helped me with my skiving skills. Would it be recommended to skive down the edges of my wallet back as well? I am using a piece of 2/4oz. Hermann Oak veg tanned for the back. I had someone order a roper wallet last night so this will be a good "trial by fire".

I just made my first roper wallet. It has 6 pockets down each side. The problem is that I have a big bulge in the middle where the majority of the pockets overlap. What did I do wrong? I have a potential solution of making "t pockets". I think if I make the pockets like the drawing below and then drop the next pocket down to where the first pocket angles in that should fix my problem. Am I overcomplicating this?

Next time Canada Geese are around you should try tackling one. It's kind of like a dog finally catching a car, you'll regret it real quick

100% agree with you! I also like that you made yours to hold 6 ducks. Almost all of the ones you see online hold 12 ducks. In Arkansas that's a good way to catch the AGFC's attention, something which I never want to do.

I like it!! I've been thinking about making one of these for my brother with leather for the straps. I like the simplicity of the paracord.

My oldest daughter has been asking for a sewing machine to make clothes with, maybe I can slide that in there too haha

Thanks for the info. I am getting one for free from a friend that has a large Instagram following so he keeps getting lasers given to him by Chinese companies for him to test. Can't argue with free so I will do my best to make the most of it

Skulls aren't my style but that is really good work!

Great tip! Thanks for your help!

Very nice @Bert03241 ! Are the letters and eagles lasered? I am getting a diode laser in the near future would be curious about your process if they are lasered.

Very nice @Simplejack1985 ! Is this a bifold?

Thanks for the suggestions @kgg ! The Juki LS-1341would be a good bit outside my price range but this used one would fit in the budget pretty well and it sounds like it has been serviced and should work well. https://dixietailoringsupply.com/product/juki-ls-1341-used/ I think the ticket may be a used 1341 with @Uwe's flatbed attachment. That would give me all the versatility I should need, at least for now. Now comes the tricky part. Convincing my wife! haha

Let me preface everything that follows with this, I have no idea what I am talking about and only know what I've read on websites as it relates to sewing machines. I am starting my research process for purchasing my first sewing machine. The number of options are just as daunting as the prices. I make a wide variety of things. I like to make belts, wallets, journal covers, and laptop bags. The only thing that I want to do that I haven't done yet is cover hat bills with leather and also doing leather patches on hats. I've read enough on here to know that one machine will not be the best for all of these things but unfortunately I am limited by budget and space to one machine for now. From my research I am drawn to the Cowboy CB3200, the Consew 206RB-5, Consew 1206RB-1, the Sailrite Fabricator, and the Cobra Class 20. I like the cylinder arm prospects of the CB3200 and figure it would be a necessity for hat patches. Am I looking in the right direction? Are there other machines to consider? Thanks in advance for your help and input! https://www.sailrite.com/Sailrite-Deluxe-Fabricator-Sewing-Machine-Package https://www.springfieldleather.com/Sewing-Machine-Cobra-Class20 https://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb3200.html https://www.tolindsewmach.com/consew-206rb.html https://www.tolindsewmach.com/consew-p1206rb.html

In my experience with using saddles, not building them, there is a continuous strap or band (adjustment strap) that runs under the seat but is also riveted to the upper part of the skirt to hold it in place. The fenders are then affixed to this strap with rivets. The part of the Blevins Buckle with the "peg" ends is attached to the end of the strap on the fender and the other part of the buckle slides up and down on the adjustment strap. Cutting saddles typically higher seat rise to keep the rider in the seat because of the posture the horse takes while cutting. They also typically have a longer thinner horn on the saddle that a lot of folks will hold onto. It's considered better showmanship to be able to control the horse with reins in one hand than to have to pull them from side to side with the reins. Roping saddles with typically have a higher cantle because the horse's rear end will squat down when sliding to a halt. You're right about mule saddles. They are completely different. Mule saddles will almost always have a strap that goes around the mules rear end because they don't have the pronounced withers of horses to keep the saddle from moving forward. Another difference is also the rear cinch. Typically folks don't tighten the rear cinch up on a horse. There is usually a gap. In my experience it's there as kind of a "last line of defense" for the saddle flipping forward. However, the rear cinch is important on a mule because of the way they're built.

I need you to clutter this up a little bit before my mind explodes.

Springfield Leather sells 13/4" wide rough out strips too.