Cobra Steve

Hello everyone. Please check out our new website, I think it turned out great! www.leathermachineco.com Comments welcome. Thanks, Steve

I agree with DC. Steve

Hello. The Mercury M111 is from WMC. They are no longer in business but it is basically similiar to a Singer 111W. Oil all of the moving parts and you should be O.K. Steve

We use Eddington thread with all of our machines. They are in the U.S.A. and been in business for 150 years. We have had no problems whatsoever with their thread. They are comparable to Rice thread, for those who remember Rice thread. We also recommend the Thread Exchange for different colors.Steve

From what I can see, it doesn't look like you will have any problems mounting your speed reducer. It looks like there is enough space between the belt slot and the legs, and it looks like everything will line up. Steve

Hello. To me, this looks like a needle/thread problem. I see needle holes that appear to be larger than the kno,t which allows the knot to travel up and down in the hole looking like a tension problem. In the instruction book there is a needle and thread reference guide that will tell you what size thread and needle to use for different applications and thicknesses. It is not written in stone because there are so many variances in leather, but it is a good starting point. Also when back tacking, make sure that the needle comes up 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch before you start your back tack. If you are using 346 thread on top, then you cannot use 346 in the bobbin (you must use 1 size smaller), unless you are not back tacking. The reason for this is in every hole that the needle punches there are 4 strands of thread and 1 knot, when you back tack in the same holles then you have 8 strands of thread and 2 knots and all of that thread will not fit in the hole, so always remember to use 1 size smaller in the bobbin when using 346 thread on top. Steve

Hi Don. This is a garment machine from the 40's and 50's. There are millions of them still around. It uses a 16X257 needle. It will work for what you want, but not as well as a walking foot or compound feed machine. Steve

Hi Paul. Welcome to our site. Lots of info here........and it's free!! Steve

It also depends on the thread that you want to use. You may have to go to the COBRA Class 3/4, or the Cowboy or Techsew versions of the same style machine. Alot of purse/bag makers like a 277 thread rather than the 138 (and with slight modifications a 207 thread), that the smaller cylinder arm machines use. This is a preference call, but the heavier thread is the cosmetic look these days. Steve

As Eric said, there are Attachment Companies that can do this job, ie. Atlanta Attachments, but there are also custom attachment makers that work inside of some of the larger Industrial Sewing Machine Companies. They will need your binding, thread, material, and in some cases your machine(head only), and they will build the attachment to your machine. Steve

Hello. In my opinion, this is a needle size/thread size issue. Ed and others are correct. Either drop down to a 207 thread top and bottom with the #23 needle, or use a #24 needle with the 277 thread. I prefer the first option. Thanks, Steve

Bob's right. It is a Singer 71-30. It is a buttonhole machine. I worked for Singer IPD (Industrial Products Division) from 1978-1984. I used to rebuild those machines. Those were the days! Steve

Hey all. There is a needle and thread reference guide in the back of the instruction book. It will tell you what size needle, and thread to use for many different thicknesses and applications. It is nothing written in stone because of the variances in leather, but it is a good starting point. Steve

Thanks, Darrel to you or anyone else that needs me. Steve

Hi Darrel. Put your stitch length at 6 or 7. Also make sure that the feed dog hasn't dropped, it should be no more than 1/16" above the plate at its highest position. Thanks for the kind words, Ralph. Steve

Hey Sarge. I agree with Gregg and Eric. There is too much play in the hook assembly. All of the dealers that advertise on this sight, and Gregg can get you what you need. These parts are the same as the Singer 111W, Juki 562/563, and Consew 225/226/255. Thanks, Steve

Hi Palermo. Please call the advertisers on this site. We are all helpful and knowledgeable. Including Wiz. Thanks, Steve

Hey deadeye, sorry to hear about your condition. If there is anything that I can do to help, please contact me. P.S. Us good lookin' guys have got to stick together! Steve

There is alot of good advice here. Please contact the dealers on this site, (they are all reputable), and listen to their advice and opinions, then make your decision. Thanks, Steve

Hello all. We have discovered that with some threads, the bonding agents affected the travel of the thread through the main tension assembly. Some threads had a tendency to slip out of the tension, but once we brought the thread back to the thread guide, no matter what thread we used, the thread would never slip out, allowing the customer to use whatever brand of thread they chose. As for the thread post that screws to the top of the machine, we found that in most cases it added to much tension, (I discovered this when I worked for Artisan) and we decided to remove the thread post. When we did, we had better consistency when it came to tensions. This does not mean that everyone will have the same results, but we did. Whatever works. Thanks, Steve

Hi art23. The correct needle system for the 111W is the 135 system. Either 135X17 for upholstery/canvas type materials, or 135X16 for leather. The 126X11 is a longer needle but you cannot use a heavier thread. There is not enough clearance in the hook unless you modify the plate and basket. 138 thread is the largest thread that should be used on the 111W. Thanks, Steve

Hi Red Cent. The #25 needle is too large for the thickness that you are sewing. Drop down to a #24. This should help. Steve

Yes, if the machine is set up correctly, the needle should go back in the same holes. If you shim the bottom of the bracket, that would only work on a long stitch length. You would be better served if you take down some of the bracket in front. These are not the correct remedies, but they should work. The best thing to do is to find a mechanic in your area that understands how to set the forward/reverse stitch. If you need more help, please call myself, Bob, Ronnie, Gregg, and others. Steve

255 RB Steve

In some cases, you may have to put a couple of washers behind the top screw on the stitch length bracket.(Between the casting and the bracket). This will allow the lever to stop sooner which will give you a shorter stitch in reverse. 99% of the time, this will cure the problem. Steve