AlZilla

She's somewhere on this forum and I know she's going to advertise it for sale locally so I don't want to start throwing numbers out in case she wants to list it differently. We weren't terribly far apart but I didn't want to beat up on her. She did a nice job resurrecting it and it was the first industrial she'd tackled. I want someone to come along and give her the asking price. I dragged an Elna Supermatic home along with a project (well and thoroughly disassembled) Necchi BU. I'm happy. For now ... Certainly not low enough to just buy it for the base but fair for someone looking for a hobby machine.

It looks like the 111w bobbin case, with a little latch across the bobbin, Mine jump up when you flip the latch up quickly. A little practice, luck and speed you can catch it.

If the news had been better about parts availability, this would probably live at my house now. She wasn't at all unreasonable, especially with it having all the bells and whistles. She has 6 stitches per inch and didn't do the bell crank lever. I can feel a enough play that I think that's all it would take. It's not totally dead in the water. They're less than an hour away, very nice people and I suspect more of their machines will come live at my house eventually. I still dragged home a couple of nice domestics.

Ok, folks, I appreciate all the information. I'm going to get a domestic or two from her, so I'm headed that way in any event. This particular machine looks very nice and is supposed to be 100% mechanically. Might be hard to resist if she's reasonable (and all indications are that she is ...)

I'm going to look at a 29-4 tomorrow. Not really sure I'll be able to work out a deal, but I do have a question. How is parts availability for the -4? I couldn't get a bell crank and some other part for my 29-3 and had to modify a later version. I got the impression at the time that parts were much more available for the -4 and later.

Very clean work. And some nice touches, tool holder, etc. I agree that the extra brace really doesn't seem to add any strength in the position it's in. Especially with 1 bolt on each end. I think the only possible weak spot is the back of the table. I looks like it's the only thing preventing the weight from torquing down. We've all seen those table tops droop over the years. I'd consider a 2x6 across the span between the left and center legs, right up tight against the top and fastened to the legs.

It's just all going to depend on the final look a person wants. Here's a link to a good breakdown: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0579/8857/9507/files/Cutting-Points-schmetz_db_schneidspitzen_6s_20190510_en.pdf?v=1643753018 It's a PDF but I didn't post it directly because I'm not sure about copyright status.

Nice stuff but probably way too tedious for me!

Mighty fine piddling you're doing there. Welcome aboard.

Nice looking sheath. I completely agree about no knives or guns behind my back. I've seen a very cool small of back holster for 2 J Frame S&Ws, one right hand draw and one left hand draw. I just couldn't be comfortable with that setup.

Nothing Rube Goldberg there at all. I can see that being very useful. An edge guide might be something to consider.. Very, very nice.

I'm hoping someone more knowledgeable than I will chime in here. i have a couple of Eagle EA-550s and they start at 200 rpms. No ramp up, no slow start - BAM, instantly 200 rpms. I've read things that lead me to think the "other" style of servo, with a knob and it looks more like a clutch motor, will go much slower but at the expense of losing torque. One of my EA-550s is on a machine with a 3:1 speed reducer so my "instant on" speed at the needle is only about 52 stitches per minute. Actual, counted speed.

I got a small bottle of the above dye to try out. The attached pic shows wet vs dry and 1 coat vs 2, straight from the bottle on the supplied dauber. I think with a little thinning this will be a nice reddish dye.

I see it. Creative genius at work ...

You must have been something because that impression doesn't look at all like the stamp. The stamp looks more open than the cross bars in the impression.

Why sew anything at all? Just pay others to do such menial labor. Anyway, there are a lot of Youtube videos with solutions to control speed on these things. An SCR is one option, with a potentiometer. I'm thinking either a lever adapted to the pot or why not just a foot controller from a sewing machine? I have an ad out looking for a treadmill.

I'm going to suggest that this is not a project you should undertake.

Sure it does. Free vs $150 - $200 makes all kinds of sense.

I wonder why you guys are seeing such slow downloads ...? I disabled my javascript blocker and flushed my cache. Reloaded the page fresh (CTL-F5) and counted down 13 seconds till the whirly gizmo stopped turning. I use a modified hosts file that blocks a lot of needless crap, so maybe that's the difference.

I'm going to say the shop isn't very navigable. Not that I could do better but there's not much to see there. Then when I click on a product, it takes me to a product page but there's no product description at all. Maybe you're still filling in the blanks.

That's why I wondered about adapting these to sewing machines. 2hp vs 1/2 or 3/4. You could sew a new fender on your car.

@kgg, I'm sure you thought of this already but, why not just lag screw it to the floor? It's not on casters.

Snatch it up, quick!

@Constabulary, I never thought of stapling a V-belt. But, why not ... we do it all the time with leather belts. Especially living where parts aren't plentiful and easy to find, this is a great idea. Next time I see them on sale/clearance cheap, I'll stock up.

Ha! I brought my 441 head into the house and up 15 narrow, steep steps to my upstairs sewing space. One - step - at - a - time. I don't know how my heirs will get it back down ...