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About Me

Found 64 results

  1. My most favourite thing to do when I have the time is make shoes! I have treated myself to some WALNUT Italian leather oxfords, hand stitched down sole and leather lined...yummy!
  2. I've seen youtube videos about shoemaking and unfortunately, the video quality was hard to see because it was VGA, and the creator hardly replies. I had a background of making small leather Items such as wallets, organizers and such - and even a couple bags. I'm happy with my stitching. I never had any experience or Idea about shoemaking - It looks all daunting. If i can, I wanted to create my own shoe, so its Mens shoes and probably a little traditional in the manner of creating using lasts, but the materials would be a little modern. 1.) are Chrome Tanned leathers ok to use?... and what leathers are Not OK for such applications?... the leathers i have are: Chrome tanned Cow hides - on several Finishes, some Nubuck Leather, some pigs hide (0.8mm thick), and some goat hide(0.9mm thick), and some Cow Hide for tooling thats about 2-3 mm thick.. The local shop that sells leathers doesn't always have calf hides so I'm thinking about possible alternatives. 2.) whats a good thickness? -i'm guessing goat hides would probably be a bad Idea for the top part of the shoe... 3.) Do i need the strechy part of the hide? 4.).. can I use the tooling leather for the soles? 5.) I saw someone using a stitching awl for the good year welt - it looked like the tip of the needle was a hook because it was pulling the thread in, but when he started, the thread wasn't really inserted into the needle. - is that right?.. 6.) Can someone post pics of the Bare minimum tools to make shoes? - all handmade - i dont have a sewing machine.
  3. Read the article for further information, and see the photos. I'd like to know more about the type of leather, the stitches used, was it welted, and so on-- Of course, that kind of specialist knowledge isn't covered! http://www.ancient-origins.net/artifacts-other-artifacts/everlasting-shoe-what-does-5500-year-old-shoe-found-cave-tell-us-about-021382
  4. Hello all, Firstly, I would like to say what an invaluable resource this forum is! Now, onto the topic. I have been hand carving soles out of sole bend by hand for the better part of the year. I was using Stanley knife, wetting the leather and then rasping, glassing and soaping the edges to make it look smoother. However, it was never as professional as I wanted to look with faint marks of where the knife had cut still visible. Today, I finally bought a bandsaw to cut through this leather and hopefully have that super vertical finish. I tried a few and it certainly looks better (just some slight marks from where I held the leather a bit too long). I am going to rasp & glass the edges to see if I can get rid of those. So I guess what I'm looking for is any tips or tricks people have to get that really professional looking sole edge, how to use the bandsaw properly (I imagine it takes practice to get a really steady hand) and any other information people have to creating soles! Thanks,
  5. Brass vs Steel? What do you use, why? What is the best?
  6. As someone with a barefoot lifestyle I still have to concern myself with shoes for work and the Minnesota cold. And having done leatherwork for almost 40 years, I decided to venture into shoe making. My requirements: NO heels, NO arch support, VERY wide, NO tight closure and not overly warm. On the one photo you can see the two prototypes I made from cheap suede - the method/pattern came from the web and was totally dumb - discarded methods. A third one made more sense and so I traced my footprint and then used felt from a craft store to mold over the top of my feet to develop the pattern for the uppers. On that photo you can see my first working brown pair. Some idiot called them slippers, so I decided on my next pair to add fake lace closures. Which resulted in the yellow pair that I still wear.
  7. Hi guys, so I used dubbin on my leather shoe thinking it will add waterproofing and I will still retain the shininess, Only to find that it actually made the shoe not take the cream polish now the shoe is dull and and not shiny. Is there anyway I could remove the dubbin?
  8. Shoe parts Cutting Dies Hi all, Can anyone advise on where I can purchase some cutting dies for baby shoes? Thank you
  9. I'm looking into making (or buying, on the off chance that flying pigs are sighted) a line finisher. It's mainly for shoe/boot making. What are the essential features? Looks like a muslin and horsehair wheel would be really useful. Also, a burnishing wheel. A few sanding wheels. What about trimming/cutting wheels? I usually see cordwainers cutting soles by hand. And the tool used for marking stitches on a welt? Is that essential or just nice-to-have? Also, I see some cone-shaped wheels that look like vitrified grinding wheels. What are those for? A shelf seems important. And what other features would you want? What about belt sander wheels vs drums? Seems like the drums would be a lot simpler and the belts would be higher performance. I suspect there will be lots of "just buy one" and "you can pick one up at an auction for cheap" and "DIY is a false economy" thoughts. I don't mean to start a debate about DIY or acutioning or whatever. I'm just trying to understand the basic requirements for a line finisher.
  10. Hello, I am a new member here. I am a new shoemaker based in France and I need to buy a sewing machine to sew the shoes upper. I have experience with post bed one needle sewing machine. I learned to used it in Shoemaking school and when I was in Indonesia. Now I need a sewing machine to work here in France. I don't have a huge budget and I have been looking around for used post bed sewing machine but they are all too expensive for me. I am thinking to buy something cheap first like vintage SINGER sewing machine 99k and when I got money I buy the post bed machine. But I'm afraid it won't work well. I am thinking to get me vintage SINGER 29K but then it doesnt have roller foot, and I don't have experience in stitching upper with walking foot. Now I found a flat bed sewing machine from SIECK that seems good, the price is still a bit high but I can cope with it, it is PFAFF Kl. 143-4 single needle flat bed sewing machine with motor 220v and roller foot. This PFAFF machine cost me 612,5 euros already included VAT and shipping. But it is still a flatbed, I have experience stitching upper on a flatbed is not really that easy but I can cope with it. I still need your advice about this. The question is, should I buy vintage machine like SINGER 29k, or sewing machine like SINGER 99k (I saw this can sew leather too), or this PFAFF 143-4 sewing machine? My work is mostly women shoes. Here I attached one of my work for example. I am using soft not thick leather. Thank you so much for your time. Earlene A. Agripina www.earlenechen.wix.com/myleatherworld
  11. We are selling out our complete shoe repair and custom bootmaking shop in Poplar Bluff, Mo. We have two post machines that are like new, bought from Nick o Sew a couple years ago, one single needle, one double needle. There is also a Boss Tippman that is still just like new bought only a year ago. The rest of the shop equipment is older but in good working condition. There are 250 pairs of cowboy boot lasts and shoe lasts on which 7 toe styles can be made...some barely used. Full size runs with widths from AA to EEE or wider are represented in most styles. There are lots of supplies including thread, soling leather, rubber soling, heel bases and lifts, upper leathers and even some exotics. Would like to sell as a complete package. Buyer must come to the shop and arrange moving. Call 573-686-4545. No calls after 9pm central time please. I will not respond to texts. I can email detailed photos upon request. Asking price for complete shop package is $15,000. Let`s talk.
  12. Hello! I am a beginner shoemaker and have been trying to figure out an affordable and dependable way to sand and shape leather soles and heels. I purchased a harbor freight belt sander that broke down very quickly. Then I purchased a black and decker grinder that was modified by a shoemaker that exploded and almost took my eye out! Anyways, I would love to hear what people are using to shape leather that isn't a huge investment like the industrial ones but one I can use at home and feels safe. Can anyone recommend perhaps a better brand for a belt sander? Regards, Maia
  13. And it only took 20, maybe 25 attempts. But now? Hah, I can make pair whenever I feel like it. Free at last... If enough people beg me, I'll make a tutorial. Edit: Kudos Johanna, the new site looks terrific!
  14. Hello everyone, I intend to make shoes for my wife. I see http://cordwainertools.com/ has a women pumps shoes making video. This is the link "http://cordwainertools.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=222". Do you have digital version and can you share to me? Thanks so much, Hoang
  15. I'm pretty new to sewing. I have a consew 206RB in very good shape. The main purpose for me getting into the field is for shoe making. Before anybody goes there, I am aware that a post roller foot is the best machine for such work, but I didn't have post bed money. I bought a good machine that I could afford. I also plan to venture to other things which will require a flat bed. Anyways, the foot marks my leather. I have already read the manual and loosened the screw at the very top to relieve some pressure, which did help. But I was told that there is a screw to loosen for the outer foot and inner foot, and since I'm a rookie I really don't know which one I loosened. It's the inner or "walking foot" that leaves marks, they can easily be rubbed out of suede, but not leather. Anybody have some suggestions?? Even on tools that can rub marks out? Also, if you're interested in this machine shoot me a pm. If I can't figure out how to get this to stop marking my leather I MAY be looking to sell it to buy a machine that can. Located in Ohio. Thanks!!
  16. Hello I need some help. I make baby and toddler moccasins and need to add some grip. They are made of camel leather and can be slippery. Does anyone know how I can add the Tod'a shoes dimpled soles? My logo is on the sole so I would need to insert any holes around it. What other solutions are available? Thank you in advance.
  17. Hi, I'm new to working with leather and about to start my first project. I'm trying to do some costing on a pair of shoes I want to make to figuire out what the exact input cost will be. This is what I have in mind (see below). How many pairs of shoes can one make on average with a piece of leather 1 meter by 1 meter (3.2 foot by 3.2 foot). Any guidance will be much appreciated
  18. Hello guys, my first post here! I am a complete novice to the leatherwork/sewing field and I am looking for some advice here. I would greatly like to get into the reconstruction of Nike's/Jordans especially, completely redoing the upper of the shoe with premium materials such as python, lamb/pig skin and eventually leather. I have been doing a TON of research but when it comes down to finding a machine Google just isnt good enough, i need help from a real person with some experience. (PLEASE VIEW WHAT IM TRYING TO DO HERE: https://instagram.com/JBFcustoms OR www.jbfcustoms) I am looking for a starter machine to do this stuff with. Through constant research I have found that one of the top reconstruction artist linked above uses both a flat bed and a post bed with a roller foot. I personally cannot afford 1 machine really, let alone 2, so I am looking for something that is good enough to get me through my trial and error stage and help me make some profit to purchase a better machine! I have looked up several diff kinds of machines... Post, flat, teflon, cylinder, walking etc etc, but its all like a foreign language to me. I would like my first machine to be able to handle at least 3,4 oz of leather as well as the python and pig/lamb skin material. So far the cheapest post bed Ive found is a Yamata 810 at about $600. I have heard that some machines can come with attachments to make in into a flat, which would be great since that post has that 7" stand, which would make it difficult to sew the material together before actually putting it on the shoe... Links to a machine that can do this?? Links to machines in this price range period? Can somebody lead me in the right direction?! Im located in Ohio... THANK YOU!!! (posted this in a leatherwork thread as well, im new to the site lol)
  19. Ok, these are not my pictures or work, I just saw this on Pinterest. Hope this is the right section of the forum, if not (mods feel free to move it). Have always wanted to do something like this, instead of making the boots completely from scratch! I am not sure how best to attach the leather to the edge of the shoe, or what they 'aged' the leather with, some kind of oil? If anyone's done something like this, or has any helpful hints - Thanks in advance!
  20. Hello all, I'm looking for some guidance here. I'm planning on making my first set of turnshoes and I'm having trouble finding what leather thickness to use. The more technical texts (Shoes and Pattens, Anglo-Scandinavian Leatherworking in York), talk about types of leather but not thicknesses. Tutorials online contradict each other - some say to use 5/6oz leather, at least one says that anything thicker than 4 oz will always split when you turn them. Given that the leather species used for uppers in medieval contexts was often calf, sheep, or goat, it seems like the leather would be quite thin - maybe2- 3 oz. But how on earth could you do a butt stitch or tunnel stitch on such thin leather(like for heel stiffeners and closing seams). So, for those of you in the know - what thickness have you used for uppers? Has anyone had any luck doing closing seams on really tin leather?
  21. Hello! Let me present to you my third work. My first work were these boots http://leatherworker...showtopic=45616, design Merrell Chameleon Wrap, and the second, running shoes, design Garmont Escape PRO 9.81, on photo bellow. And here shoes numbered 3, with my own design and own logo, which will be discussed here and manufacturing technology, which I would like to share with you. The first thing I began with - design, available materials and furniture. Despite all this, you can correct design subsequently as I did. I began the design with a clean sheet of paper. Sketched a few pictures I settled on this design, considering the design features and attachment parts sequence - this is important , otherwise it will be impossible to attach it properly. It is also important to think about where and how will shape the bend. To improve inflection, I used an extra pair of belt loops on the shoe vamp. Here demonstrated only one of many possible designs of shoes, the rest depends on your imagination. http://i-fotki.info/...031277.jpg.html "By approving the project" could begin. Put all materials on shoe last (except upper material) in the right amount and manner as they would be in the finished shoe. It is necessary to put a thickness of insole and middle sole. For further winding of shoe last, use masking tape 20-25mm wide, wider is not recommended. Masking tape should stick well, but not to be wax outside, otherwise it will be bad stick and when removing the shell it can lose shape. http://i-fotki.info/...031431.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...031468.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...031491.jpg.html Glue tape needs with a little overlap, preferably without wrinkling. After sticking enough thickness of tape, insert shoe last in the outer sole and outlines the level to the visible part, below which all will hide. http://i-fotki.info/...031619.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...031648.jpg.html We should also mark the axial lines, front and rear. Now we can begin to design. Draw is best with conventional ballpoint pen, using gentle pressure and instead of the eraser, use pieces of masking tape. Underway, you can change the design somewhat, if in dimension will not like something. Since the right and left side is not quite the same, move all lines using vellum, for example, you will not succeed. Help you centerlines and tailor measuring tape. After completion, you must draw harder all the necessary lines, to avoid confusion. http://i-fotki.info/...031709.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...031815.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...031845.jpg.html Using sharp knife, making slit at axial lines and lower edge, to divide into two parts. By dividing, cut along the contour, including the toe cup as the most convex part. Parts became more flat, but they still can not be cut, they must be glued on thick paperboard, while leveling and cropping. More detailed process describes here http://www.youtube.c... for shoes&sm=3 http://i-fotki.info/...032008.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032046.jpg.html Now is necessary to make slits on lines for creating patterns. http://i-fotki.info/...032207.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032235.jpg.html Creating patterns is most responsible for connection all parts. Using the main patterns make all external parts. It is necessary to consider all overlaps, overmeasure and mark centerlines. You should also specify the right and left sides, as well as the front to each side. http://i-fotki.info/...032285.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032313.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032340.jpg.html After making all patterns, you can begin to cut material. Also note, if were made ​​some amendments to the upper, it is necessarily to make them on patterns. http://i-fotki.info/...032387.jpg.html I have a regular sewing machine (Singer copy), therefore the manufacturing technology reminds classic shoes, where is no need of a post sewing machine. I made some improvements for greater sewing accuracy and larger thickness. I replaced original hand driven mechanism and attached own lever directly on the wheel. Instead of three stitches per one revolution, now it makes one (used for hand sewing of large thickness). Undergone revision and presser foot, making it narrower and shorter, increased downforce, improved visibility and accuracy. Needle used conventional 110, although it is better to use reinforced for leather, thread polyester 40. http://i-fotki.info/...032557.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032583.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032604.jpg.html Before sewing, machine needs to be adjusted for a specific material thickness and test on a separate piece. My primary material is haberdashery suede 1-1.2 mm thick. http://i-fotki.info/...032654.jpg.html Should start with the basic parts, on which is necessary to mark those details, which will be sewn first. Because of the sliding effect and high downforce of the presser foot, one material slides relative to another, I found a simple solution for this problem, parts before sewing, I gluing together after what, concentrating on precision stitching. http://i-fotki.info/...032713.jpg.html Since suede is not for footwear, however, it is strong enough, to provide proper rigidity of some parts I’m using 1mm thick cotton fabric. http://i-fotki.info/...032779.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...032806.jpg.html Having measured braid using patterns, glue and sew them, then you can sew the side part. Do the same with the second half and then sew together both parts. Stitch on these parts is 2.5-3mm. http://i-fotki.info/...032978.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033039.jpg.html After receiving a single piece (upper), it’s ready to make a heel cap. Since I did not have a proper shoe last (proper shoe last on pictured below), I made a separate billet for forming the heel, but with a normal shoe last is done directly on it. Cut two pieces of cotton fabric, stretching and gluing together with SAR 306. When dried, transfer lines with pattern and cut. http://i-fotki.info/...033091.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033129.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033381.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033431.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033457.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033479.jpg.html Then glue it on heel in folded position on shoe last and sew it with stitch 2.5-3mm. http://i-fotki.info/...033535.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033559.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033593.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033616.jpg.html Now you can begin with layer over the heel of polyurethane foam and lining. There are no patterns for these parts, so lay out on the shoe last, blank sheet of paper, draw around the top and cut. There no corrections for polyurethane foam, but lining must be recalculated - 1mm suede + 3mm polyurethane foam + 3mm wool interlayer + 4mm lining allowance = minimum 11mm total must be added to the upper contour, on which will be sewn lining. This is necessary to ensure that all will twist neat. http://i-fotki.info/...033673.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033705.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033735.jpg.html Sew need right by the polyurethane foam, for smooth edge, stitch 1.8-2mm. For insulation using natural wool, material thickness about 3 mm, the same material used on the first boots. Gluing with SAR 446, applying thin layer on wool and suede. The photo shows masking tape, 5-8 mm to the edge, where wool layer will be needed to cut. http://i-fotki.info/...033796.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033827.jpg.html Then gluing lining with SAR 446, also applying thin layer. http://i-fotki.info/...033883.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...033921.jpg.html All excess need to be cut and sewn, on that edge, where the masking tape was. At this stage, the shoe begins to appear. As can be seen on the photo, it keeps form well, but the final forming will be at the very end. http://i-fotki.info/...033977.jpg.html When the upper is ready, next part you need to continue - tongue. There also no patterns, but you can estimate the length using upper, the width of the tongue I took from my sport shoes - 100mm. Gap width in the shoe vamp is 40mm, respectively adding 6mm allowance, will be enough for sewing. On a sheet of paper draw everything and make pattern, cut the mesh and lining without any overmeasure. Put some polyurethane foam (about 3mm) on the tongues top (for thickness and strength) and sew together mesh with lining face to face. Then glue mesh with wool layer and extroversion. http://i-fotki.info/...034032.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034054.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034191.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034218.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034262.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034286.jpg.html Cut a piece of suede, glue and sew. Mark the braid and sew. http://i-fotki.info/...034383.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034406.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034426.jpg.html Connect together tongue and upper with clearance 40mm using SAR 446 and then sew together stitch to stitch. Mark border of the toe cap on upper and glue with SAR 446 along the edge, as well as toe cap, connect and sew, stitch is 2.5-3mm. http://i-fotki.info/...034718.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034749.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034859.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034891.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034918.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...034939.jpg.html Now put the upper on the shoe last, I leave allowance in 20mm for bend under the shoe last, only for upper, side parts, heel and toe cup should be in the slice with the bottom. After toke the upper, cut out the toe reinforcement from cotton fabric, glue with SAR 306, tighten in place. Once again, make sure that upper is in the right position, remove the staples and glue. Cut off all suede relief and glue suede center part. When it's all ready, it's time to form the shoe. We need to warm all shoe parts, that has inside cotton fabric and tap with a hammer, to complete forming. After that, shoe will keep the shape for a along time. http://i-fotki.info/...035595.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035647.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035683.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035713.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035741.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035767.jpg.html Basically shoe are ready for gluing outer sole, but I would like to stamp on it own logo. To do this, take a picture of the shoe from the side, where logo will be, open the vector program Corel Draw, import photo, create a logo in scale and print on plain paper. Take sticky film Oracal, and cut out the logo with sharp knife, slot only to the film substrate. Unstick from the film unnecessary parts and glue masking tape over all parts. Cut and stick the logo in its place. Carefully remove the masking tape, leaving all separate pieces in place. Glue around with masking tape to avoid smudge of shoe. Preparation is completed and we are ready for rubber coating. As rubber coating I’m using SAR 306 and 30-40% of aluminum powder (for metallic effect). Using brush, apply thin layer and let it dry for a couple of hours. With precision knife cut glue on film edges for smoothness of the logo edges without rips. Due to a thin layer of coating it obtained fairly resistant to damage. http://i-fotki.info/...035832.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035873.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035901.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035924.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035950.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035974.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...035995.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...036020.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...036039.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...036068.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...036089.jpg.html Finishing stage, gluing the outer sole. Left the upper on shoe last and insert it in outer sole, outline with pen about 1mm below the level of the outer sole. Apply SAR 306 on surface, coat over line and let it dry. The outer sole is made from thermoplastic and I need degrease it with special composition Satreat and only then glue it. When the glue dries, it does not stick at all, conversely it's slides. Insert shoe in the outer sole, heat bottom side with hairdryer and press for a few seconds. Then you can easy heat side parts and tap with hammer. By this way it’s easy to make clean connection between upper and outer sole. http://i-fotki.info/...036284.jpg.html http://i-fotki.info/...036312.jpg.html After a few hours, you can remove shoe from the shoe last. It remains only to make insole. For insole I am using - 2mm thick polyurethane foam, 3mm wool interlayer and 3mm lining. http://i-fotki.info/...036371.jpg.html Glue the insole on its place and do all the same with the second shoe and enjoy your work. When placing this article on other sites link to this forum is required. Sorry for not exact terminology and not perfect english. Good luck!
  22. Good Morning all! I have been experimenting with different glues to use in my shoemaking, which is in an enclosed space and all cemented construction. I love how Aquilim 315 doesn't smell at all, but unfortunately, the hold is just not there the way I am doing it (not mixed with the crosslinker, and hammered for pressure-not a sole press). I like the hold on the Renia Cologne, but the toxic smell makes me want to pass out! Can anyone please recommend a cement for me to use? Some of my concerns are, once dry and set, and shoes get wet, or in the freezing weather that it still holds. Seems from other forums that Leatherweld would not be good once it freezes? Thanks so much and best regards, Faye **see pics where glue is coming apart at the waist
  23. Hello to everybody! I'm a young italian boy, age 24. In these month I've finished my first pair of handmade leather boots. I'm very interested in old-techniques, especially the wooden pegs manufaturing. Unfortunately here in Italy is really hard to get all the materials. I've found only the biggest measure of Blau Ring wooden pegs, that is 24 mm long (measure over the box is 8/8) I really need the smallest one that is approximately 15 mm long. Does anyone of you know where I can buy this pegs? Hope you could help me (hope you like my work) best regards to everybody Yuri Gamberoni
  24. Newbie here - new to the forums and new to working with leather. I just completed (nearly) my first pair of sandals. I'm still waiting on an order of sole material to stick to the bottoms to make them wear longer, but they're wearable for now. I've learned quite a bit while working on these, so I'm excited about starting on the next pair to see if I can improve the look and the speed of construction. Sarah aka Hawah
  25. First post as a new member to the forum. We currently make a few styles of leathers shoes in St Paul, MN and Miami, FL, here's a link to our online shop to see finished products - http://lanona.co We are looking for collaboration opportunities with members of this forum. Also, interested to add machinery to our St Paul workshop in the near future. Looking forward to hearing feedback and making new connections. Thank you, Ben.
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