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I'm looking for a reliable supplier of 332 - 632 Campbell's Satin Laid Linen Thread in the full range of colors. It's a venerable thread mill, yet its products are somehow difficult to find. Same with wholesale Caldwell. They make an unwaxed 18/3 that I can't find anywhere. US or EU is fine. Thanks much.
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Hi!! Can someone tell me what "type" of thread is commonly used for aesthetics on cuff/belts...it usually contrasts the leather and is not for function/attaching,purely aesthetic??? I've seen some that even looks more like twine and some that is smoother? Any help on either/both is appreciated. Also, what is the Knot type most commonly used for this? Thanks!
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Good morning! I am a beginning leatherworker and purchased a Singer 15 sewing machine a few months ago and it had been doing a fantastic job stitching leather of all thicknesses, single and double ply, up to 15 oz and as thin as 2 oz. Recently I have been having immense difficulty with two things on it. 1. The thread spacing is erratic sometimes even on leather that is exactly the same thickness the whole way, it may stem from the second problem I am having though. I have checked the thread spacing screw and it is tight and has not moved from the position it has always been in (~6-8 stitches per inch). Is this due to having too large of a needle? 2. The presser foot periodically will lift up with my leather when the needle is coming back up through the leather to go to the next stitch and will also miss locking the stitch. I have backed out and adjusted the tension on the presser foot all the way down as far as it can go. Previously this would be so tight that the leather would not even move when you tried to advance a stitch. Now it is so loose that the needle can easily pick up the leather when it is coming back through. I am mainly making headstalls, breastcollars, halters and spur straps, using 13-15oz leather, what type of thread and size needle should I be using? Does anyone have any experience with these machines? I would like to see if I can figure out what is going on with it before I take it in to a shop we have here in town that *might* be able to fix it. I would love to purchase a more professional machine, but money is tight right now and I am already farther than I would rather be in the hole with starting my leather business up. However if anyone has a used machine that works well still that they are looking to sell please let me know! Thank you sooo much for any help that you can give! Christina
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Hello i buy today plastic thread.It was cheap.And i think it can't rott.I thik i dont need a wax for it.i try with it it look it might can tear leather.To notice iam making blacksmtih bellows.And i need airtight stitch.So what you suggest.I have a lot's of these thread.
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Does anyone know of a good place to get Kevlar/Nomex thread? I just bought some tex 60 to sew Leather fire shields for on fire helmets, but doesn't seem to be strong enough.... Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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I appologize for starting another topic on a subject that seems to be discussed often. Ive been researching for days. Im having a heck of a time trying to figure out what kind of nylon thread to get and where to get it. I see waxed nylon thread everwhere but Im never certain on the size and whether it is right twist or not or whether it is good quality Currently, Im using Barbours linen in 4 and 5 cord. I want to give nylon a try and I need a thread the same size. I use the 4 cord linen the most so thats the ideal size. i guess I dont care if it is bonded nylon or waxed nylon, just that it is the correct size, in right twist, and of a good quality. Some people say that left twist is ok for handsewing but I bought my barbours in left twist and I think it tends to get twisted up so I definitely want to try right twist to see if it works better. Also, if i go with bonded nylon, can I dye it and wax it the same way i do with the linen? I also figured that size 277 would be a good size to get but not all sources for thread I find use this same sizing so i get confused If anybody can point me in a good direction, I appreciate it.
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bought this last month and replaced it with right twist. practically brand new, ive made about 4 wallets using it. I paid $63 shipped. If someone is interested in it for $50 shipped i would be glad to get rid of it.
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I hope I'm not breaking any rules by posting this here but I thought it should be said. A couple of days ago I was browsing the web, looking for more information on electric machines, (Cobra's to be specific), and came across a place in southern California called "Leather Machine Co. Ltd.." Let me first say this isn't an ad, nor do I work for this company. I spoke (via email) to a very nice gentleman by the name of Dave, about the Cobra Class 3 and 4 machines, and he seemed to be very knowledgeable about them. The point of this post is to say that this would be one of the first places I'd go if I was looking for a machine of that type. He was extremely helpful, but more over, he was also very kind. He really made me feel comfortable, and I thought that since the Leatherworker.net forum is the place that speaks volumes about sewing machines, and other related equipment, that it would be a good place to mention that there are good vendors out there. I'm certain there are other excellent people in the business also, but this is one that really stood out for me. Thanks for reading this, and I hope it helps someone someday. Matchlock
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Hi all, I need help, I have an order for a wallet stitched with rust or blue thread. I use the white waxed thread from Tandy usually to stitch the wallet up. Where can I get blue.... or rust colored thread, and what size do I need. Every place I find thread they all have different ways of measuring their thread. I don't need a whole lot, will probably only make one in rust! Thanks! Randy
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I recently purchased a Landis #1 from a fellow down the road who is scaling down his business. I've scoured the internet and found lots of people who own them but no one ever seems to mention what size or type of thread they are running. If anyone has any info it would be greatly appreciate. Also, if you know of a source for the thread in Canada that would be even better! Cheers
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Been doing mostly various kinds of gun leather for awhile now, but all by hand sewing. I am in the process of buying a machine to get to the next level, which has led me to the subject of thread. There are a multitude of choices out there especially for a new guy to machine sewing. I managed to narrow it down to thread in sizes 207 and 277 based on some recommendations here on Leatherworker. At his point the choices get confusing: Nylon? Polyester? Bonded ? What recommendations do you guys have. I found this on eBay, one of many, any information/recommendations of this variation? In case the graphic it too small the label reads : American & Efird, Inc.,Mt Holly, N.C., Anefil Nylon, Bonded, White, 30001, ST277.
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I`ve recently inherited a Singer-45K25. It seems to have an excessively large needle. If anyone out there knows the sizes of needles and thread that are standard for this machine, your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Ron Brooks
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I am planning to buy a Wheelskins leather wrap for my car steering wheel and would like to try doing something special with it, so I need some advice. The leather wrap is black, but I want to use blue thread for the stitching to give the car a sportier look. I have done this type of project once before with a previous car, but I used the regular black thread provided by Wheelskins. The only thing I know about that thread was that it was waxy and quite strong. I had to pull very hard on it to get the wrap tight on the steering wheel. My hands were sore and blistered afterwards (note to self: wear gloves next time). What I need to know is, what type of thread should I use for this project? It would need to be strong, colorfast, and not loosen up or stretch over time. I have found websites that sell waxed blue thread, but offer it in different materials (e.g., waxed polyester, waxed Irish linen) as well as different sizes. I just don't know what to choose and I don't want to have to redo it because I remember what a pain it was to do it the last time.
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Advertised this machine in the past but no longer able to find on the site. I have a new COWBOY 4500 SEWING MACHINE, as shown in Leathrcrafters and Saddlers Journal and offered by Toledo Sewing Machine. Has all of the listed accessories and much more that I had purchased for the machine. Large spools of thread, needles, etc; and will all be included. I am not able to pack and ship but machine may be picked up in Opelika, Al., just off I-85. Asking price is below the price machine is being sold and with free extras. $2500.00 cash takes it home. Wish I had discovered an experienced teacher in the area, to teach me how to use the machine but no luck around here. I think I put the cart before the horse when I made the purchase. Had no desire to to attempt to take a stab at making a mess of things with such a great piece of machinery so it sits on it's pedestal and waits for a more courageous individual. If you make the purchase, please plan on having assistance with you as I am not physically able to load or lift anything these days. disabled senior,senior. Hope this is a machine for someone. Ray
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Hello Everyone, Jus thought I would share this simple video I made on threading a leather sewing machine. I know when I got the machine - the directions had me searching youtube to find a quick answer. Only after watching several videos did I finally understand how to do it. Now this video makes it short and sweet and easy to see. Check it out... http://www.mrlentz.com/2013/03/how-to-thread-a-leather-sewing-machine/ Cheers! Mr. Lentz
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I'm new to leatherworking and I can't seem to find the info I'm looking for clearly described. I bought a basic needle work kit off of tandy and it came with these dull and relatively large needles and thread. What I'm wondering is if there is a more thin thread and finer needles that are often used for hand stitching? Thanks
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Hello all I am new here, been reading the forum trying to solve my problem.... I recently purchased a 211G155 to sew purses and leather with. I am not new to sewing but this machine has me baffled. I too have this thread tension issue resulting in a rat's nest on the bottom of the material... I have checked and double checked my threading, there is a killer video on youtube about how to tread thru the tension disks. So I am pretty sure I have that correct. Wizcrafts wrote " A thread rat's nest under the material is usually caused by a total lack of top tension. However, the bobbin thread is usually picked up in those situations; it's just tighter on the bottom than the top my a magnitude." And this goes along with sewing machine common sense. What I cannot figure out is HOW or HOW TIGHT the tension should be.. There are no markings or adjustment indicators on the tension disks. It seems that there is quite a bit of tension on the thread, it is hard to pull so I know it is not an issue of no tension at all. The machine seemed to work perfectly when I bought it. It was set up and sewed a sample of my material just fine. All I have done is brought it home and wound new thread on a bobbin and threaded it with new #92 nylon thread and have a singer 130 needle properly installed. So I guess my question(s) would be, how tight is enough tension? How hard should it be to pull the thread thru the tension disks/spring? Do I just keep cranking the knurled nut down? Or does anyone have another opinion of what I am doing wrong? Thanks a bunch. Mia
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Hi All! So I'm relatively new to my Singer 211G165 and honestly purchased it with only a little research on what I needed (walking foot) , but luckily so far it's been "OK" for me. I use it to sew chromium leather handbags. (sometimes up to 3 or 4 layers thick) Sometimes it works well, other times it does not, and I'd love everyones feedback on the best needles, thread, etc to use. Lately I've been having problems with stitches skipping, bobbin thread breaking, or getting tangled in the bobbin case. While trying to investigate, it appears that the little square tab that sticks off of the side of the bobbin case is not where it should be? I am wondering if that little tab is supposed to be underneath the needle plate? It looks like it was at one point because the needle plate is worn down... I will post a picture this evening! Also my hand wheel is very hard to turn... is that normal? In some videos i've seen, it looks very easy to them.. I also just realized that the "Swing away guide" thing exists and I am SUPER excited to get one of those! I have tons of questions, but that will work for now. I really appreciate everyones responses! best, erin
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Hello sewing machine guru's, I just set up a Consew 223r. I have a few questions. 1) is there an adaptor for the unusual presser foot mount which will allow this machine to take the more common style of industrial presser feet? 2) in my first couple of test runs i got tangled up pretty quickly with large loops on the underside. Obviously this suggests that I need more needle thread tension. Do i just keep tightening the tensioner until the loops go away? is there any other cause of this problem which I should check? 3) what is the biggest needle thread combo for heavy leather stiching which this machine can handle. Everything seems to suggest a 120 with 207 thread? is this right, should I even bother trying 180 with 277?